Fenix E01 with a Quantum Tunneling switch?

Chrontius

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Anyone else think it'd be awesome to put a QT pill into a Fenix E10 in place of the tailcap spring in order to give it adjustable brightness?



Anyone else think it'd work before I sink $6 shipping into a $0.20 semiconductor? :shakehead
 

shao.fu.tzer

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Anyone else think it'd be awesome to put a QT pill into a Fenix E10 in place of the tailcap spring in order to give it adjustable brightness?



Anyone else think it'd work before I sink $6 shipping into a $0.20 semiconductor? :shakehead

Old thread resurrected because this is a subject I'm interested in...

If wired properly, I don't see why it wouldn't work.... Did you ever go for it?

Shao
 

scout24

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Very interested as well, I'd be happy to split costs if you'd like to... would be an awesome mod!
 

Derek Dean

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You might be interested in this thread from over in the Peak Solutions area:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-Need-some-help-deciding-on-an-Eiger-with-QTC

Folks were trying the new QTC technology in the Peak lights fairly quickly, with excellent results, however, the material seemed to break down after several weeks of hard use...... so Curt has devised a "holder" for the QTC material that seems to have helped with the situation. He got 1000 activations with the new holder during his initial trail, at which point he stopped the test (it was still working perfectly).

Personally, I think this new technology has great promise for the flashlight community, and with the proper implementation could be very cool indeed.

I'm just waiting for Peak to produce the first Eiger AAA with the new QTC pill holder.
 

MWClint

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E01 would require some extra work to get it to work with a QTC. You would have to remove the anodizing on the threads(head and body).
then drop the qtc and a metal spacer at the bottom of the light to take up the slack that the spring took up.
youd have to play with the thickness of the metal spacer to get the light to activate/turn off where you like it.
 

gustophersmob

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E01 would require some extra work to get it to work with a QTC. You would have to remove the anodizing on the threads(head and body).
then drop the qtc and a metal spacer at the bottom of the light to take up the slack that the spring took up.
youd have to play with the thickness of the metal spacer to get the light to activate/turn off where you like it.

+1

You have to have a way that both the positive and negative battery contacts are connected in circuit as you apply pressure to the QTC.

If you don't remove the thread anodizing, the only other way would be to try to devise some way to put the QTC between the circuit board tabs on the side and the contact ring on the battery tube. MWClint's idea seems easier. I don't know how else you can do it with the E01, at least without a very extensive mod.

It looks like it would be more trouble that it is worth to mod the E01 to work with QTC, at least IMO.
 

gustophersmob

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+1

You have to have a way that both the positive and negative battery contacts are connected in circuit as you apply pressure to the QTC.

If you don't remove the thread anodizing, the only other way would be to try to devise some way to put the QTC between the circuit board tabs on the side and the contact ring on the battery tube. MWClint's idea seems easier. I don't know how else you can do it with the E01, at least without a very extensive mod.

It looks like it would be more trouble that it is worth to mod the E01 to work with QTC, at least IMO.


I was thinking about this some more today... I measured the resistance from the E01's circuit board negative contact pad to the aluminum head (on the bare reflector part) and it measured "open." This means that even is you de-anodize the threads, it still won't complete the battery return path.

This leave putting the QTC between the negative board contact and the body tube the only (somewhat) feasible method. Without a major modification, of course.
 

Cataract

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+1

Why stop at the E01... how about the E05 and LD15? which other twisties could use this?
 

Lynx_Arc

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Personally I think it is a wasted effort trying to dim a single 5mm LED. I could see it very useful driving a higher output Cree LED from 100+ lumens to less than 1 lumen.
 

Helmut.G

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Personally I think it is a wasted effort trying to dim a single 5mm LED. I could see it very useful driving a higher output Cree LED from 100+ lumens to less than 1 lumen.
Imagine turning the 15$, one-level E01 into a infinitely variable-output light with a QTC that costs a few cents ...
Of course there are so many other interesting possibilities, but I wouldn't call it a wasted effort.
 

Lynx_Arc

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Imagine turning the 15$, one-level E01 into a infinitely variable-output light with a QTC that costs a few cents ...
Of course there are so many other interesting possibilities, but I wouldn't call it a wasted effort.

Imagine an infinitely variable E01 that costs $22 and has a blotchy tinted 5mm LED, I would call that a waste myself. When you see drivers that are one level vs 3 levels cost a few dollars more yet the lights 1 level vs 3 costs $10+ more nobody is going to "give" you a fenix E01 with more than one level for less than $5-$10 more.
 

Helmut.G

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Imagine an infinitely variable E01 that costs $22 and has a blotchy tinted 5mm LED, I would call that a waste myself. When you see drivers that are one level vs 3 levels cost a few dollars more yet the lights 1 level vs 3 costs $10+ more nobody is going to "give" you a fenix E01 with more than one level for less than $5-$10 more.
that's exactly what this thread is about. the possibility of doing it yourself very cheap with the QTC.
 

Lynx_Arc

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that's exactly what this thread is about. the possibility of doing it yourself very cheap with the QTC.

If you can get one for $1 and make it work I say put em in all your lights, but the $6 shipping in the OP makes the ~$15 E01 a $21 E01 which them starts to compete with Cree multimode LED lights offering a lot better and higher output. I think when Peak gets their QTC lights out and a review of the circuit happens we will know a lot more about this topic and how easily it can be incorporated into lights.
 

Helmut.G

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well, it will depend on a light's regulator if it works, and is probably going to be different for every light.

of course the shipping is expensive but that might change, or there might be a source that charges less for the shipping.
anyway even without cheaper shipping if you have 3 lights you want to modifiy, $6 shipping and $1 for the QTCs would calculate to less than $2.5 per light, for 5 lights less than $1.5 per light.
 

Cataract

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If it doesn't work with one particular light, there's always another one you might not have yet bought that it could work with, but there's nothing like asking around.

Anyone try it with any of the mentioned lights yet??? Or any other tiwstie for that matter???
 
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