HELP PLEASE: Change Emitter In Fenix TK30, MC-E Advice?

I was thinking about putting a warm emitter in my TK30, but I don't know how to mod. Just seeing how difficult/practical this would be, not sure if I want to do it. Here is a thread where the head was disassembled. I have no experience, but I am patient and meticulous... A few questions if anyone has the time...
How do you get the head apart, with strap wrenches (not sure if I want to heat it)?
How difficult would it be to put a warm MC-E in the TK30, and whats the best place to buy a warm MC-E?

I told myself I would never take my lights apart, but the more I think about a warm emitter in my TK30 the more I want to do it. I would rather do it myself if possible as well.

Ok I think I want to do this, but I'm going to need help. How easy would it be for me to ruin my light permanently? If anyone could give me some instructions on how to do this that would be awesome. Specifically I am wondering about the following: thermal paste, soldering, which warm tint bin to use, which MCPCB to use, how to take the old emitter out, and how to put the new emitter in. Any information is greatly appreciated. Here is the site I was considering to buy from: http://www.cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=Cree+MCE+Multichip.
Thanks.

I opened the bezel of my TK40, and replaced the MCE with a warm white.

Its easy.
Desolder the wires.
Gently pry te glued star loose from the aluminium.
Solder the wires to the Led.
Glue the star in place with thermal glue (not paste) and make sure the surfaces are clean and plane. Use some clampingforce for 24hrs while the glue sets.

Note: the TK40 has the 4 die's of the led wired in series. TK30 propably as well, as It is feeded by only two wires. You can check this by applying 6, 9 and 12v (in that order) to the contacts. For MCPCB; just buy the Led with PCB attached.

Getting the threaded parts loose is the hardest part. Do a search, there are some good threads in this.
The thread is glued, but the glue looses hold at elevated temperatures.
One way is to heat it with hot water or a heatcannon (not over 105 degrees). I placed mine on its bezel in a pan of hot water.
It takes time to soften the glue, and you may have to try 3 or 4 times before the bond brakes.
Then still you need to applie gentle force to screw parts loose.
For clamping strapwinches or a vice with protective padding on its jaws works well.

TyJo - I suggest getting this LED from that distributor: MCE4WT-A2-5C0-K0-0-00001 370 min Lumens Neutral White. Have it sent on this star:
20mm Star- Series wired

Walterk - I'm glad to hear the operation was successful! So, how do you like the neutral tint?

Double post

Ha CJ! Yes it went smooth. This thread made me think 'who helped me with my MCE'.
Havent made comparison beamshots yet with my pocketcamera for the 'stock' and the 'aspheric warm white'.
Really is a pretty tint now.

Thanks for the responses Walterk and mudman cj.

mudman cj said:

TyJo - I suggest getting this LED from that distributor: MCE4WT-A2-5C0-K0-0-00001 370 min Lumens Neutral White. Have it sent on this star:
20mm Star- Series wired

Walterk - I'm glad to hear the operation was successful! So, how do you like the neutral tint?

Click to expand...

I don't own any neutral lights right now, but I do own a warm and like the tint. The tint on my TK30 isn't too bad, I think it is pretty close to neutral all ready with a slight greenish hue. I really like the warm and I may go that route, but I see the neutral has more lumens. I understand what board to get now. My remaining questions:

Should I go neutral or warm tint, will the neutral be that noticeable (I'm going to post a thread on this issue in the LED forum)?
What thermal glue should I purchase and where from?
What should I use to put the head back together, the thermal glue? I thought I read that threadlocking can be bad for the emitter?
What type of solder should I purchase and where from?
Is there any specific way to solder the board or is it pretty simple?

Thanks.

I am not into tints. Maybe you find some reference on the forum but suggest you just follow Mudman's advice.

For thermal glue, any 2k thermal glue will do. Sold in computer parts stores.
I havent heard of threadlock glue damaging Leds.
I didn't glue my threads, I have used some grease to keep it watertight, grease meant for watertaps.
If you want to glue you can use Loctyte.

Do not cut the wires, just resolder.
Solder can be any solder sold in computer parts stores. It may contain resin, what helps with getting bond and flowing.
First make sure the tabs on the led and the wires are 'tinned' with solder.
Then check if you use the right color on the right pole once more.
Then solder each wire on its tab. A bit difficult as the wires are short and the star is not glued yet.

Use the thermal glue thin, moved around while pressing to divide, and then let it rest with clampingforce on the star without damagaing the led dome 24hr.

Here is the info from the Cree data sheet:
Chemicals Tested as Harmful
In testing, Cree has found the following chemicals to be harmful to XLamp MC-E LEDs. Cree recommends not using
these chemicals anywhere in an LED system containing XLamp MC-E LEDs. The fumes from even small amounts of these
chemicals may damage the LEDs.
• Chemicals that might outgas aromatic hydrocarbons (e.g., toluene, benzene, xylene)
• Methyl acetate or ethyl acetate (i.e., nail polish remover)
• Cyanoacrylates (i.e., "Superglue")
• Glycol ethers (including Radio Shack® Precision Electronics Cleaner - dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether)
• Formaldehyde or butadiene (including Ashland PLIOBOND® adhesive)
• Dymax 984-LVUF conformal coating
• Loctite Sumo Glue
• Gorilla Glue
• Clorox bleach
• Clorox Clean-Up Cleaner spray
• Loctite 384 adhesive
• Loctite 7387 activator
• Loctite 242 threadlocker