convince me i don't wark a quark 123 (or that i do =P)

hi all. hoping to get some feedback on a few specific models, and their relevant drawbacks/strengths. also, if anyone sees issue with any of my assumptions about various aspects, i'd be glad to be corrected if indeed i am wrong =) also, if anyone can suggest a light they think fits my criteria that i haven't listed, that'd be awesome. i realise that some, if not most (or all) of the aspects i raise below will have been discussed elsewhere on the forum, and i have searched and read what i've found, but i'd be interested to hear what people's opinions are of these lights in specific contrast to each other and consolidate it in one place.

what i'm looking for:

- edc (small enough to fit in jeans pocket, awesome if fits in "coin pocket", but pocketable in general is fine - to replace quark mini aa, so not much larger than that, max 3.5" long).
- single cr123 (ambivalent about RCR123 support - only plan to be using primaries. single-cell only, to keep it small, and means less spare batteries need to be carried to "refill").
- very low "low" mode (something in the region of 1 lumen or less - something to help preserve night vision, and to read at night without disturbing my gf).
- current-controlled (as opposed to pwm - afaik this should generally -all other things being equal- translate to better efficiency, i.e. longer runtimes especially on the lower modes).
- decent "max" output (something in the region of 150-250 lumens. the brighter the better, but i don't expect searchlight capability from a single-cell pocketable torch =P and i'd rather sacrifice a bit on highest output for the sake of my other requirements).
- clicky (not bothered if forward or reverse, just not twisty - got a quark mini aa and i love it, but i returned a quark mini 123 cos the mode-skipping was too irritating -lost the "thread lottery" on that one-, and i expect a clicky to have more reliable mode switching than twisty operation).
- no "tactical" ui (i want to be able to readily access all modes, and don't mind having to cycle through all brightnesses, or "disco" modes if they're there. "disco" modes not a deal-breaker, but all other things being equal, i'd choose a light with them, as long as they're fairly well "hidden" in the ui. would prefer to start on low mode).
- can tailstand (so no protruding/tactical switches).
- modestly priced receptacle (excuse the random movie reference, couldn't help it =P but seriously - something in the region of £50-60/$80-100. it'll be a user, not a shelf queen, so not so expensive that i'd cry if i lost it)


models i'm considering, and their strengths weaknesses as i see them (noted lumen ratings taken from manufacturers, so some OTF, some ANSI, some "honest", some "artistic marketing licence" probably =P i know i could get more accurate ratings from a source such as selfbuilt's reviews, but i felt this post was going to be detailed/complicated enough...):

- 4sevens quark 123 (regular, not tactical)
this is the front-runner just now in my mind. seems to tick more boxes than any other. some report "issues" with "pre-flash" (don't know if this would bug me or not, hard to say until i experience it. some say they can live with it, some not). positive: "lego-ability" - if i get the quark 123, i can also acquire an aa body, allowing for flexibility (although the "parts" seem less easy to get in the uk).
-- 3.2" long, low = 0.6 lumens for 29 days =o (current-controlled circuit = v. long run time on this mode), max = 175 lumens for 1 hour, reverse clicky, good ui (won't describe it here - been done well many times already, but briefly: several well-spaced modes), tailstands, ~£50.

- thrunite neutron 1c
this is probably the one i'm next most inclined towards, except for a couple of potential drawbacks, one of which is noted here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?315743-New-Toys!&p=3656784&viewfull=1#post3656784 - that the battery contact in the head is directly onto the PCB, rather than onto a solid metal "pill", raising concerns about longevity. afaik, no in-field issues have been with this, and my quark mini aa appears at a glance to be the same. not sure if it would actually be an issue or not. positives: switch "lockout" to prevent accidental activation in pocket.
-- 3.5" long (bit bigger than quark, still within acceptable size), low = 0.09 lumens for 100 hours (lower low than quark, but shorter runtime, due to using pwm as opposed to current-control i believe. specs state current-control, but selfbuilt's tests show pwm), max = 255 lumens for somewhere in the region of 1 hour (spec not given, extrapolated from "103 lumens for 2.1 hours" stated spec. smokes quark's highest output, assuming similar lumen scales), reverse clicky, good ui (v. similar to quark's), tailstands, ~£50.

- nitecore ex11.2
this one has an outside chance... slight concern about the constant current draw required for the "piston drive" operation. i've read that there were some problems with the v1 model drawing too much current "at rest", and draining batteries in days, but that the v2 model has addressed that, and touts 3 years "at rest". i just don't like the idea of it using _any_ current when i'm not actually using it... seems like a waste of energy. positives: "shortcuts" to highest and lowest modes (i like the sound of this =) ). "ramping" ui, aka "infinitely variable" - this sounds cool too =).
-- 3" long (shortest of the three - excellent =) ), min = 5 lumens for 80 hours (quite a high "low" compared to the other two, short runtime in comparison to quark implies pwm but i can't find a definite source to back this up), max = 200 lumens for 1 hour (pretty good), "piston drive" switch-mechanism (seems like it would be less likely to "fail" than a clicky switch as less "mechanical"), very appealing ui, tailstands, ~£50.

Take a look at the Sunwayman V10R.

Then take a look at the Sunwayman V10A and see if the CR123 battery format is really a must.

If you can't decide then take a look at the V10R Ti with AA extender.

Then check the M10R & M10A and see if you would like to trade continuously variable output vs runtime.

Then just buy one of them, the quality of manufacturing and finish is exquisite, you won't be disappointed when receiving the light.

Nap.

I'd go with the quark 123 Regular with the R5 LED in it. I have 30+ lights, and feel that the quark 123 R5 has one of the best balanced beams around (throw & flood.) The Thrunite is almost all flood (which is great for those that love floody lights, but for me it was too floody.) When indoors the thrunite seems brighter (because it is,) but when outdoors the quark seems brighter because it has pretty good throw with plenty of flood. Also, I love that the quark 123 legos with most of the other quarks. Another thing, you can customize your quark by getting a forward clicky (which can replace the reverse clicky the light comes with -- this option not a big deal, but I like the forward clicky better...also the clicky doesn't change the UI. The UI is programmed in the head.)

i'd go for the quark : i own 6 of them and if you don't mind the preflash (which is not a big issue with the regular UI) i think it's the best choice in it's price range : easy to upgrade, easy to buy spares, well built, comes with accessories and batts, and 10 years warranty !

FYI the low on the ex11.2 is far lower than the 5 lumens specified !
it's almost the same if not lower than the quark = something around 0.2 lumens (with poor runtime compared to the quark), and it has a very nice pocket clip..

you don't want a Quark 123.
these aren't the droids you're looking for.

Of the ones you mention, I'd go for the Quark; they are a great value for the money, and their Lego-ability is a great feature.

I personally wouldn't go with a 123 format lights, I'd go with AA; with modern emitters and battery chemistries, 123's no longer have any edge on AA's.

Here are 3 reasons to get a Quark 2x123:

1x 17670 1600mAh AW Protected
Maximum 01:29 to 50%
High 07:40 to 50%
Medium 30:55 to 50%

http://www.light-reviews.com/4sevens_quark123_2/

If I was in the market for a 1x123 I would not get a Quark, there is to many other models with higher quality. As already mentioned the Sunwayman V10r would be one of my front runners, a few others would include the Jetbeam RRT-0 and Fenix PD20.

IF you really want a small format with a great UI (the best IMO) check out the Zebralight SC31 which can also be used as a headlamp with the included headband, Zebralight is making some of the very best lights around right now. It has the best chance of fitting in your coin pocket as well.

http://www.zebralight.com/SC31-220Lm-CR123-Flashlight_p_56.html

I am also in the market for a small 1xCR123A, and I'm very close to pulling the trigger on a Lumapower Incendio V3+. Small, ~200 lumens, $50, and it looks really cool.

Quark 123 R5 emitter (non tactical) or a Sunwayman M10R R5 emitter. Both 1x123 lights and both are simply beautiful.

robostudent5000 said:

you don't want a Quark 123.
these aren't the droids you're looking for.

Click to expand...

now that's FUNNY!

Nothing is going to fit in the coin pocket of jeans but a AAA light like the preon or fenix LD01 from your choices id get the quark 123 or 123x2.

ok, wow - thanks everyone - lots of great replies here, took a bit of reading and researching all the new options, and this post might be a bit of a novel as a result... =| i thought i was ready to choose between the 3 models i mentioned, then you evil people come in and make me all confused again by bringing all these other cool lights to my attention... =P i can see why so many who frequent this forum end up with "collections" of lights rather than just 2 or 3... =) it seems that most replies fall into one of two categories: 1. "of the three suggested, go for the quark" or: 2. "go for something else altogether".



1. "of the three suggested, go for the quark"

Outdoorsman5 said:

I'd go with the quark 123 Regular with the R5 LED in it

Click to expand...

Ti²C said:

i'd go for the quark

Click to expand...

B0wz3r said:

Of the ones you mention, I'd go for the Quark

Click to expand...

kaseri said:

Quark 123 R5 emitter (non tactical) ... simply beautiful

Click to expand...

ScaryFatKidGT said:

from your choices id get the quark 123 or 123x2.

Click to expand...

it seems like the quark is the "can't go wrong with it" option - there might be more exciting options out there, or ones with higher output, or a better ui, but the quark seems a good "all-round" light.

LightWalker said:

Here are 3 reasons to get a Quark 2x123:
1x 17670 1600mAh AW Protected

Click to expand...

thanks for the suggestion - i have no doubt that would be a great setup, but i'm sticking to my requirements of "one cell" (so not 2x123) and "not rechargeables" (so any "extra" benefit from using rechargeables is irrelevant to me).



2. "go for something else altogether"

Napalm said:

Take a look at the Sunwayman V10R ... Sunwayman V10A ... V10R Ti with AA extender ... M10R & M10A

Click to expand...

kaseri said:

a Sunwayman M10R R5 emitter ... simply beautiful

Click to expand...

i have heard of sunwayman, and have the impression that they previously had a very good reputation for good quality lights. i do really like the idea of the "rotary ring" brightness control of the V10R/V10A, but i've read varied reports of people's experiences with its calibration - some saying that they can get it to go down so low it's almost "off", and some saying they couldn't get it to go down low enough for their purposes.

the V10R's runtime on its lowest setting is ok, but not stellar (1 lumen for 35 hours) especially considering it's (afaict) supposedly "current-controlled", and a long runtime on lowest brightness is one of my most desired features. the V10A's runtime is markedly better, but at a higher output (4 lumens for 70 hours) which is brighter than i'd want the lowest mode to be.

the V10A (AA version) is also definitely tempting - great max output from a AA light, a strong challenger to the CR123 lights about when taking into account the "ease of acquisiton" factor of AA batteries, and certainly brighter than my current EDC (quark mini aa) which i intend to "upgrade" by one of the lights i'm considering here. however, both the V10A and V10R are at the top of my desired price range. i know - "you get what you pay for" =) but i still only have a limited budget, so i would have to be very convinced about these lights to fork out for one of them.

jhc37013 said:

If I was in the market for a 1x123 I would not get a Quark, there is to many other models with higher quality. As already mentioned the Sunwayman V10r would be one of my front runners, a few others would include the Jetbeam RRT-0 and Fenix PD20.

IF you really want a small format with a great UI (the best IMO) check out the Zebralight SC31 which can also be used as a headlamp with the included headband, Zebralight is making some of the very best lights around right now. It has the best chance of fitting in your coin pocket as well.

Click to expand...

the Jetbeam RRT-0 looks awesome (especially with the AA extension tube option for aded flexibility), but just too expensive (almost double my budget). the Fenix PD20 would sit along side the options in my OP quite well, ticking many of the boxes i want, but it's lowest low doesn't sound low enough for me (9 lumens for 35 hours) - i just think i could do with a lower low.

the zebralight sc31 is a really appealing suggestion - i've kind of ignored them before cos i thought "they just do headlamps" =P but i like the specs:

- zebralight sc31
mega-small compared to the other lights i'm considering - big bonus =)
-- 2.6" long, low = 0.5 lumens for 21 days (strong challenger to the long runtime of quark's "moonlight" mode - must be current-controlled?), max = 220 lumens for 0.9 hours (awesome), "electronic push button switch" (not familiar with this technical description - is it just a "clicky"?), highly regarded ui by many (sounds good if i understand the description on zebralight's product page), tailstands, ~£55.

aimxplode said:

I'm very close to pulling the trigger on a Lumapower Incendio V3+

Click to expand...

it certainly has some things going for it, but it doesn't seem to be readily available in the uk (at the suppliers i'm aware of anyway), and i can't find any specs for its runtime on its lowest mode...



3. "other things people have said"

robostudent5000 said:

you don't want a Quark 123.
these aren't the droids you're looking for.

Click to expand...

the most convincing argument yet - i strangely find myself utterly convinced and wanting to "move along"... =P

B0wz3r said:

I personally wouldn't go with a 123 format lights, I'd go with AA; with modern emitters and battery chemistries, 123's no longer have any edge on AA's.

Click to expand...

interesting theory, but could you provide some data to back it up? my perception is that doesn't pan out in reality - for example, the sunwayman lights that were suggested by napalm - the CR123 version outputs 210 lumens for 1 hr 30 mins, while the AA version although awesome compared to other AA lights, can only output 140 lumens for 1 hour. i see it as a statistical truism that CR123 batteries and lights that run off them are just more energy efficient, providing a higher voltage for a longer time than an AA battery. (excuse any uninformed assumptions/sweeping statements in there - i only seek the truth, not to be seen as "correct", so if anyone feels i need corrected, i'll welcome it =) ).

ScaryFatKidGT said:

Nothing is going to fit in the coin pocket of jeans but a AAA light like the preon or fenix LD01

Click to expand...

i guess it depends on the jeans and the size of the coin pocket in them =) i can comfortably fit a quark mini aa in the coin pocket of the jeans i'm wearing right now, and believe it could comfortably accommodate a light of similar length, but thicker (i.e. something the size of the CR123 lights i'm looking at). if it turns out it's just too bulky, i'll adapt, but i thought it would be a good indicator of the size of light i'm after. perhaps the size varies from jeans to jeans more than i suspected...

Pellgarlic,
You've really done a great job with researching everything, and you are becoming well informed. It also looks like you are narrowing your choices down to 2 of my most favorite lights - the quark 123 and the zebralight sc30. It's a toss up; both are simply fantastic. They both have a high regard for really low lows, for being really bright, for being small & lightweight, and for good quality.

The Zebralight has the best UI around, but has a problem with getting accidentally switched on in your pocket. The switch (similar to a dvd button, or a calculator button, or a cell phone button) is too easy to click, and the slightest bump in you pocket could turn it on. This is easily solved by "locking out" the light by twisting the tailcap a little. This is not a hastle to some, but is a hastle to others. The drawback is the light is not instantly ready when you pull it out of your pocket because you have to twist the tail before clicking the switch. Zebralight has just come out with the SC600 that has a new switch with a lot more resistance, and they say this new switch will be on lots of their lights in the future...very exciting. But the UI is still simply the best around, and works like this - From Off - quick click = high, double click = medium, and a slow click = low. This is the only light I know of that allows you to get to either high, medium, or low FROM OFF...very useful. Also, each level has a sub-level, and you can get to the sub-level by double clicking once the light is on. So, there are 2 highs, 2 mediums, and 2 lows. And, the light remembers which output you left it on. I have my ZL configured at H1, M2, and L2....and I change this sometimes depending on the situation.

The quark 123 with the regular UI is simply a great light as well. It has great output levels from very low to very high. It's well made. It does not accidentally come on in your pocket, so does not need to be locked out which means it is instantly ready when you pull it out. It legos with the rest of the quarks, so if you end up buying others you can always have your favorite head on your favorite body. Or, you can put a forward clicky on the light if you want (I did & love it.) The drawback to the quark with the regular UI is that you have to cycle through each setting like this: Head Tight = max then strobe. Head Loose = moonlight, then low, then medium, then high, then SOS, then beacon. This loop repeats itselft, and can be annoying at times. Also, pre-flash is a bit of an issue, but not as bad with the quarks that have the regular UI. The tactical UI is good too, but doesn't sound like you were interested in it. With the tactical UI you only have 2 output options - head tight & head loose. You can program each of these which is nice, but you are always limited to just those two programmed output options. I like the regular UI better, buy my wife likes the tactical UI because it's more simple.

So both the Zebralight SC31 and the Quark 123 are great lights, and it is hard to choose between them for me anyway. I used to edc the sc30 (almost the same as the sc31,) but the accidental activation got too annoying (for me.) I now edc a quark so that it is always ready when I pull it out of my pocket. When the future zebralight models come out with the stiffer switch then I will definitely go back to edc'ing a zebralight....love the UI.

Outdoorsman5 said:

Pellgarlic,
You've really done a great job with researching everything, and you are becoming well informed.

Click to expand...

thanks =) every time my girlfriend asks me what i'm reading about online, when i say "torches", she laughs and says "you've been reading about torches for weeks... what more can there possibly be to read???" =P she thinks i'm preparing for the apocalypse (and maybe i am... =P) and thanks for you great descriptions of the UIs of the two lights and the "mechanical" info about the zebralight's switch - that was very much appreciated =)

Outdoorsman5 said:

It also looks like you are narrowing your choices down to 2 of my most favorite lights - the quark 123 and the zebralight sc30

Click to expand...

yeah, those two have the strongest appeal right now, except i'm wavering a wee bit between the sc30 and its successor the sc31:
- "XP-E" vs "XP-G" (the newer XP-G emitter seems to be brighter/more efficient judging by the stated specs)
- no strobe vs strobe (do i really need strobe?... =| )
- £35-40 vs £55 (buying the sc30 would "save" me enough money to buy another "cheapy"/"beater" light, maybe a solarforce l2p or something =P)

not a huge difference in runtimes or output really, but maybe enough to warrant spending a little bit more.

Outdoorsman5 said:

The Zebralight has the best UI around, but has a problem with getting accidentally switched on in your pocket ... This is easily solved by "locking out" the light by twisting the tailcap a little.

Click to expand...

i definitely want to avoid accidental activation, and i can imagine having to do the "tail-cap unscrew lockout" thing being slightly annoying, but as with my current edc (quark mini aa) at least one "twist" is required to get it turned on, and often more to get to the mode i want, so perhaps one "twist" and a click or few wouldn't be so bad... to be honest, as i was expecting that i might end up having to carry whatever light i get "loose" in my "main" pocket, bumping up against other items, that i'd have to do the "tail-cap unscrew lockout" on the quark if i ended up with that anyway, so...

the mode-changing of the quark wouldn't be a big deal for me, as i'm used to the quark mini, so it'd be very similar. but darn it, i'm all excited about a zebralight now... maybe it's just because i've been looking at pictures of quarks for so long that the zebralights look all new and shiny and different and intriguing... =P

i guess as no light is perfect, it's a case of deciding what i least mind compromising on. i imagine that either of these two lights would suit me down to the ground, so it's just a case of spending several more days/weeks agonising over the minutest details of each, before coming to a painful decision to turn my back on one of them and never have it darken the doorstep of my mind again... =)

... or i could wait for those new zebralights with the stiffer switches =o

pellgarlic said:

interesting theory, but could you provide some data to back it up? my perception is that doesn't pan out in reality - for example, the sunwayman lights that were suggested by napalm - the CR123 version outputs 210 lumens for 1 hr 30 mins, while the AA version although awesome compared to other AA lights, can only output 140 lumens for 1 hour. i see it as a statistical truism that CR123 batteries and lights that run off them are just more energy efficient, providing a higher voltage for a longer time than an AA battery. (excuse any uninformed assumptions/sweeping statements in there - i only seek the truth, not to be seen as "correct", so if anyone feels i need corrected, i'll welcome it =) ).

Click to expand...

In general, AA primaries won't drive a light as hard as a 123 primary, that is true. However, some of the new lights, particularly the Zebralight SC51(w), put out nearly as much light on an AA primary or nimh rechargeable as the SC31 puts out on a 123 primary or an RCR123. There is a small difference, with the SC31 being slightly higher, but I doubt you'd be able to notice the difference.

Where modern AA lights come into their own is with models that support a range of different chemistries; the Quark AA for example can use cheapo alkalines, nimh rechargeables, lithium primaries, or lithium-ion rechargeables. With a li-ion rechargeable AA (called a 14500), most AA based lights that can use them have exactly the same output as the 123 format version of the same light. A highly respected forum member here, Ti-Force IIRC, did some capacity tests and found that even though both RCR123's and 14500's have the same mAh rating, the 14500's have a small advantage in capacity over the RCR123's.

So, a good modern AA based LED light will be able to use any AA format power source, meaning you can use alkalines if necessary, nimh rechargeables, and when using li-ion rechargeables, are just as bright as 123 based lights. Finally, while you can get 123 primaries fairly cheap in bulk on the web, high capacity AA lithium primaries are also available for low prices on the web and you don't have to order in bulk if you don't want to. I've seen Energizer Ultimate Lithiums on Amazon for $7 for a 4 pack, about 1/2 the price you'll find in most stores. Even if you end up buying in a store, you'll see that a 2 pack of 123 primaries is anywhere from $12 to $16; compare that to a 4 pack of Energizer L91's for about $12 and you'll see you're getting twice the power for the same price. And L91's have just as much, if not more mAh in them, than 123 primaries do.

Finally, after the zombie apocalypse hits, and you're looting stores for shotgun shells, food, and batteries, what format do you think you're most likely to find? I'll bet a month's pay it's going to be AA.

EDIT: PS: my regular EDC is a ZL SC50w+ and I love it... best small light I've ever used.

Pellgarlic,
I think the only difference you'd see between the SC30 & SC31 is the size of the hotspot. It will be slightly larger on the SC31 since it has the larger XP-G LED in it. I have a SC60 and a SC51w both with the XP-G, and the hotspot on both of those is slightly larger (which I like) than my SC30.

Regarding the quark 123 & accidental activation - my edc is the Quark AA (mostly) and sometimes the Quark 123. Neither have ever gotten accidentally switched on my pocket, and I've carried them for many months now. I used to edc a fenix P2D with the same tail clicky, and it never once got switched on in my pocket. I edc'd it for a couple of years.

B0wz3r is right about the single AA lights - they can be just as bright as 123 lights if you are willing to use rechargeables. I mostly edc the quark AA because I run it on a 14500, and it's 200ish lumens. Plus, it is the perfect size (to me) compared to the 123 lights (fits in my hand more comfortably.) It can use common AA's, or NiMH, or lithiums as well if needed. I go hiking & camping a lot, and like the fact that I can find AA's anywhere. Also, I got the "deep carry" pocket clip for my Quark AA which allows the light to ride clipped deep inside my pocket...nice.

So, if you don't want to get into rechargeable batteries then stick with the quark 123 or the zebralight sc30 or sc31. One day though, you will/may discover that your lights will be a lot more fun on rechargeables. Before I got NiMH & Li-ion rechargeable batteries, I didn't play with my lights very much because I didn't want to waste the batteries. Now with rechargeables I get "guilt-free" lumens, and my kids & I play with them a lot. Today's rechargeable batteries are really incredible, specifically "eneloops" and Li-ion batteries like "AW" brand.

pellgarlic said:

i have heard of sunwayman, and have the impression that they previously had a very good reputation for good quality lights.

Click to expand...

I have the M10A and M20A (I went for the extended run-time) and they shout "quality" from design to finish. Check the pics, you'll notice details like strong, reinforced contacts or how the reflector fits the LED end - tight nicely cut with a collar that let you see just the perfectly centered LED lens, not the whole PCB around it and then some. You won't see this on many lights.

As a result of my satisfaction I've ordered more - there's a M40A T6 coming soon from Asia.

My other favorite brand is Eagletac - which is no slouch when it comes to designing robust, reliable, solid, no-nonsense lights. However in my experience Sunwayman gives even more attention to the details, "exquisite finish" is what you'll find mentioned in many of the reviews.

So why not fork a couple extra bucks and get a modern, really nicely made ring controlled light instead of the run-of-the-mill ones. You'll get much more pleasure from using it.

Nap.

Outdoorsman5 said:

One day though, you will/may discover that your lights will be a lot more fun on rechargeables. Before I got NiMH & Li-ion rechargeable batteries, I didn't play with my lights very much because I didn't want to waste the batteries. Now with rechargeables I get "guilt-free" lumens, and my kids & I play with them a lot. Today's rechargeable batteries are really incredible, specifically "eneloops" and Li-ion batteries like "AW" brand.

Click to expand...

+1!!! Exactly!

When I'm using primaries (unless they're alkies), I feel like I need to conserve them so I tend to use a light less and at lower levels than I would prefer. Since I've switched to nimh's (I can get Duraloops at the local Home Depot), I've never felt the need to conserve battery power in any device I'm using them in.

The only primaries I buy anymore are L91's and only for back-up and emergencies, etc. I even keep a small, cheapo, 4xAA nimh recharger in our camping dry box which I can run off of the internal power in our camper-van, or off the emergency battery we keep in it. That way I only have to crack open a pack of L91's if I'm feeling a real need for their much lighter weight, or it really is an emergency situation.

Oh, and li-ion rechargeables absolutely rock! Nothing like dropping one into my Quark AA or one of my other one cell lights and getting output equivalent to a 2xAA or 18650! If you stick to protected cells, invest in a quality charger, and follow some basic and simple usage rules with them, they are very safe to use. Last night my neighbor and his son were putting some new brake pads in the front brakes on his wife/mom's car after dark... They had this crappy old incan flashlight that uses the big old lantern style batteries; on my way out to walk our dog, I pulled my ZL SC50w+ out which I normally run with a 14500 and clicked it up to max; they were blown away by the amount of light I had, and THEN their jaws dropped when they saw how small the source was. I love seeing people react that way... LOL!

+1 quark 123 reg UI
+1 quark AA reg UI w/14500