Where can i buy a D2Flex?

I want to buy a D2Flex Driver for my first mod, but at Taskled.com the board is listen under History and as discontinued.
So, where can I buy the Driver or an equal driver with 9A at 14V for an SST-90?
I want a dimmable, because I think ca. 2k lumen are to hard for normal use^^

BTW: Where should i buy a glass lens for a Mag Lite 3D (no LED)?

Cheers Xiider,
PS: This is my first post and i want to say Hello ;D

I didn't realize the D2Flex had been discontinued. It was a very popular board I'd seen in many builds. Anyway it's probably just as well in your case because the D2Flex is only a PWM dimmer, not a regulator. If you had hooked an SST-90 up to 14 volts by way of a D2Flex, the LED would have blown instantly. The TaskLED H6CC and the H6Flex are OK at that voltage, but only 6.7 amps.

Try Der Wichtel's 9 amp regulator. He has both single mode and adjustable output 9 amp drivers. There is also the DIWdiver 10 amp regulator. DIWdiver's is a linear regulator. Since the excess voltage is burned off as heat, you're a little more limited to the choice of batteries, 4*NiMH being idea. Those are the only two I am aware of.

If you really want a D2Flex, post a want to buy thread over in the B/S/T Forum. But then you have to figure on a battery configuration that can also run direct drive before you add the D2Flex. Overdog had one of the first 4*AA NiMH shorty Mag's I'd seen. The internal resistance of the AA NiMH is high enough for the voltage to drop to the right level. If you tried it with D cells would probably be too much.

... and :welcome:

Edit: I missed the cover glass. Try a 52.1mm*1.90mm UCL lens for a MagLite. I'm a little unsure what (no LED) means. If it's the kind of hotwire that sets newspaper on fire, you need the 52.1mm*2.00mm Borofloat lens. If it's a R.O.P. or any kind of LED, the UCL would be OK and has an extra 5% transmission.

I'm going to use 3 D Cells with 1,2V at 10Ampere, which means I will have 3,6 V @ 10A.
And now I wanted to have a dimmable board, where you could set the modes on your on, for Example:
Low (10%) -> Mid (50%) -> High (100%) -> Strobe ( 100%) -> SOS (50%)
But I think if i really want this I have to build this on my own^^
Any Tutorial how to build a costum regulator?:sick2:

Get the H6Flex like me, pretty similar from what I read actually

A battery pack of 3*NiMH doesn't have enough voltage to drive an SST-90 to full power. I've seen a number of threads where people ask what's wrong with their build because they only get 4 or 5 amps driving an SST-90 with 3*NiMH. Perhaps the newer ones have a lower forward voltage. But I wouldn't bet on it. I built a 2D Mag with a DIWdiver regulator that reached 10.25 amps at 3.88 volts. Post #336 of jtr1962's white LED lumen testing thread had an SST-90 that reached 10.25 amps at 3.89 volts. It's the 4th LED at the bottom of that post. The two results were very similar. His table suggests that at 3.6 volts you would only get about 4.5 amps. The good news is if you can snag a D2Flex on B/S/T, you won't have to worry about overdriving your LED. Looking at his table can also help understand why direct drive is generally considered a bad idea with LED's. I only took 0.25 volts to go from 4.5 to 9 amps.

FWIW, a 3D Mag with 4*NiMH Sub-C's in a 1" schedule 40 PVC spacer sleeve would be perfect with a DIWdiver IS1006-1025 linear regulator. If you didn't want to use a potentiometer, you could fit a cheap SPDT switch in a modified Mag switch to have a 2 level light. The mod is nothing more than cutting a hole in the black part of the Mag switch ≈0.47" square. Just slide the switch in after tightening the ground screw. The switch boot is enough to hold it in place. You can even adjust the low output to a fixed level lower than 2.5 amps with a resistor wired in series with the switch.

As far as driver tutorials, if you find one be sure and let the rest of us know.

Ok, i have to buy the 10AMP DIWdiver and a D2Flex (or a H6Flex, but only 6.5A), first put the DIWdiver then the D2Flex?
Have i use the 4*NiMH Option in this case?
You see, i want to have to 5 Mode, because my it´s my main torch and: I will just take a look at this paper *click* *dazzled with light*^^

The order is D2Flex 1st, then DIWdiver linear regulator and finally the LED. Here is a post in Don's sales thread showing how to wire his regulator with the D2Flex. He mentions the D2Flex having a 6 amp current limit. The overdog thread I mentioned the other day, he eventually added a D2Flex. Kz1000s1 mentions in post #10 of that same thread, the 6 amp specified limit. But the FET used is rated for 10 amps. You should really send a PM to georges80 (Mr. TaskLED) and ask him if the D2Flex can handle 10 amps OK. He can also verify whether or not it will work with the DIWdiver regulator.

Also the Mag Switch requires a D2Flex modification in order for it to work properly. One nice thing about the D2Flex is being connected to the battery constantly, it remembers what mode it was in when you turn it back on.

There is a guy on here somewhere who makes a 5amp or 9amp driver

I mentioned Der Wichtel's 9 amp driver in post #2. But the OP said he wants a strobe. The nice thing about a D2Flex, if he can find one, is it allows you to go into a mode that doesn't have strobe if you're not using it. Der Wichtel's driver doesn't have a strobe feature. I do agree with cdrake261 though, except for the strobe, 2*26650 Li-Ion's in a 2D Mag with Der Wichtel's driver is smaller, lighter, generates less heat and has a longer runtime.

I forgot to mention Xiider, but you need something like a SnowplowTortoise heatsink for the DIWdiver regulator. At full power when the SST-90 is drawing almost 40 watts, the linear regulator draws 11 watts when the batteries are fully charged. And you need a TO-220 mounting kit because the FET ground is negative like the MagLite. The local Radio Shack carries these as well.

The 2D Mag I mentioned in post #5 has a finned reflector housing with Arctic Silver on the battery tube focusing threads for good heat transfer. A MagLite is really too small to dissipate 50 watts continuously. At least when you're talking about LED's. It takes just over 3 minutes before the head becomes too hot to hold. I could actually pass an ANSI lumens full power test, even if only just barely.:naughty:

After my current triple xm-l flashlight, I want to attempt a triple sst-90 with his driver, but that will be built into a custom flashlight host to handle that heat

What kind of head & optics? Always nice to see something extreme...

Just to make things more confusing, CPF member The_bad_Frag recently had two interesting threads. The first on the appearance of a new 9 amp driver for the SST-90. This board looks remarkably similar to the Der Wichtel 9 amp PowerBuck. Actually it looks more like a clone. And the second thread is a Der Wichtel triple XM-L he is in the process of making using a PWM dimmer sold by the same company with the new 9 amp regulator. What differs these PWM dimmers from the D2Flex is they can behave in a control signal only mode as well as provide dimming to LED's they supply unregulated power to (like D2Flex). AFAIK, D2Flex v2.0 & v3.0 after the PWM jumper has been installed, still supplies power to whatever constant current regulator they are connected. As I mentioned earlier, you should contact George over at TaskLED to verify D2Flex functionality.

The names of the three PWM dimmers that the German company sells are Led Stripe V3, Nano Dim V2 and μ-Dim. Despite the existence of a nano, the μ-Dim is the smallest of the three. Don't know what's up with that. The_bad_Frag has the company link in his post. If you paste the three names into their site's search engine, you'll get the three links you can paste into Google Translate. Basically the μ-Dim is a PWM controller only. The Led Stripe and the Nano in addition to that can also act as a dimmer for constant current regulators without PWM input of 3.5 and 2.5 amps respectively. The Led Stripe has battery monitoring ability and an input for an external temperature sensor.

Al Combs said:

What kind of head & optics? Always nice to see something extreme...

Click to expand...

Another thread, another day.


I'll to get me a lathe before then though

So, had no time^^
As reflector i will use this: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...0-MAG-C-D-Deluxe-Heatsink-***Ready-to-ship***
Also the heatsink^^
As lense i´m looking for an aspheric lens from DX.
And ok^^
I took a look at the Led Stripe V3, but it has no strobe^^
So I´ll buy the H6FLex and a 9AMP Driver. I´m sorry if don´t understand, but my English is not the best /= (Working on it^^)
And I forgot I will use this heatsink for the electronics: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?192418
@All, who are waiting for the finish mod:
It will take some time, because I first have to build my bed and then a clock (Ice Tube Clock).
But the Mag Lite I buyed will always scream: "Mod me, mood me"^^

Xiider said:

So I´ll buy the H6FLex and a 9AMP Driver. I´m sorry if don´t understand, but my English is not the best /= (Working on it^^)

Click to expand...

Err... just to be clear, you know that you can't just feed the output of the 9A driver into the H6Flex, right? The H6Flex is a constant current driver with a dimming capability of its own, while the D2Flex just PWMs whatever input you give it.

If the Britelumens SST-90 MagD heatsink is similar to the P7 deluxe, there is only 11mm between it and the Mag switch body. After you cut off the switch bulb tower. I don't think there will be room for a SnowplowTortoise style heatsink. Here is a shot where Aircraft800 mounted a DIWdiver heatsink on the bottom of a Britelumens SST-90 heatsink.

The H6Flex can't be used in conjunction with a DIWdiver regulator. It is a standalone regulator. I think it's a good choice even if it is only 6.7 amps. There really isn't a lot of difference between 6.7 and 9 amps. Not as much extra light as there is heat.

The other thing is the size. The H6Flex is 1.3" or 33.02mm in diameter and 8.95mm thick at the inductor. The MagD battery tube ID is ≈34.2mm. So there is just over 1mm extra space for the emitter wires to slide by. You might have to notch the H6Flex on the edge with a file to give the wires room at the edge of the board.oo: Watch out you don't damage the circuit board traces. At the bottom of the first post there is a picture of the H6Flex layout.

Again if the Britelumens SST-90 is like the P7 deluxe, it is hollowed out in the rear for a driver. Perhaps someone that has one can verify. Or contact Jo @ Britelumens. Which means you can't mount an H6Flex directly to the back of the heatsink before you cut it in half with a hacksaw. You'll also have to cut a notch in the rear of the heatsink with a file to bring the wires to the outside edge.

I'm not trying to discourage you. It's doable, just not that easy.

Ok, what i understand:
I only need a H6Flex, and just use the 6,7A.
And there is a problem with the size of the H6Flex: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...y-to-ship***&p=3120697&viewfull=1#post3120697
This was built for 1,1" driver.. Any idea?
I have nothing here, what can cut something...

I'm sure there are many different ways of doing this. I would go with the mounting it directly to the Britelumens heatsink option. It will take advantage of the H6Flex's thermal monitoring abilities.

The hole in the back of Britelumens' heatsink doesn't look large enough for the current H6CC, let alone the H6Flex. That leaves you with the hacksaw option. A soft-jawed vice is almost a must for this kind of a job. Or a regular one with several layers of cardboard. George mentions in his H6Flex-Tech link that the Bond-Ply 100 T.I.M. he supplies with the board is only 0.29mm thick. The main problem is to get the surface flat enough after you cut it. I don't suppose you have a lathe?

Unless you're an expert with a file, it's very difficult to avoid making the surface convex. I would make the surface finish with maybe two grades of sandpaper, 120 coarse & 400 fine. Put the sheet on something flat like a counter top. Grab the heatsink with two fingers as near to the sandpaper as you can get. It helps keep it flat. Rotate the piece between your fingers every few strokes. Aluminum will clog the paper so you'll have to keep moving to a fresh spot. You'll be able to see when you're done. A few strokes should be enough to get a fresh set of scratches over the whole surface in the direction of motion. Think of it as a test of patience.

Next you have the problem of the LED wires. Do you have a Dremel? A cutoff wheel or the right size burr should allow you to make a channel that will bring the wires to the edge of the board. If not you'll have to use the corner of a file to make a 'V' notch. George's H6Flex-Tech page has a picture with the locations of the critical thermal vias pads. It's the one with the little red boxes. The wire channels you make have to be clear of the red box locations.

Here is how I soldered my h6flex...helps to have helping hands and thin solder...