So we can't lock-out McClickys?

sween1911 · Jan 24, 2013

Got a McClicky insert for one of my standard Surefire LOTC tailcaps. It's in my "bump-in-the-night" Z3 on the nightstand. Even though I have a hard-press boot on there, it doesn't take much pressure to activate on momentary. In a bag full of gear, there's still the possibility of unintended activation.

Unscrewing the tailcap doesn't do anything, I can still turn it on. Is there anything that can be done to lock it out completely?

yellow · Jan 24, 2013

just "tested" 5 McKlicky lights and with all less than 1/8 turn of tailcap blocks current flow.
What host are You using?
:thinking:

... there is one possibility:
unscrew the switch, insert some kind of "ring" (from flat plastic material) and move switch back in.
now there is more press-in needed

(con: tailcap gap gets bigger)

sween1911 · Jan 24, 2013

yellow said:
just "tested" 5 McKlicky lights and with all less than 1/8 turn of tailcap blocks current flow.
What host are You using?
:thinking:

... there is one possibility:
unscrew the switch, insert some kind of "ring" (from flat plastic material) and move switch back in.
now there is more press-in needed

(con: tailcap gap gets bigger)

Surefire Z3 with a Lumens Factory single-mode module. 3 primary CR123's. I got the McClicky kit thing from Lighthound and installed it in the standard Surefire black LOTC that came with the light. One important note, IIRC it seemed I could lock it out when I first installed it, but then the rubber button felt loose. If I pulled on it, I could pull it out of the end of the tailcap. So I tighted the module down into the tailcap. That seemed to negate the ability to lock-out.

Cerealand · Jan 24, 2013

McClicky was able to be locked out with about 1/8- 1/4 of a turn on my 6p.

Pekka · Jan 24, 2013

Two words: conductive threads.

Picture for reference:

I'm not familiar with all the older designs but newer Surefire tailcaps should have Surefire's name engraved around the button and non-conductive threads. If it is a genuine one with conductive threading, maybe trade with some collector who fancies old stuff like yours truly. :huh:

Tana · Jan 24, 2013

Pekka said:
Two words: conductive threads.

Picture for reference:

I'm not familiar with all the older designs but newer Surefire tailcaps should have Surefire's name engraved around the button and non-conductive threads. If it is a genuine one with conductive threading, maybe trade with some collector who fancies old stuff like yours truly. :huh:

+1

Either make sure if there is ano on the threads in the tailcap, if there is, no lock-out... if it's "normal" Surefire with same anodization from inside as from outside, you just need to tighten brass ring and make it firm so it doesn't follow unscrew motion thus staying attached to the body rather than stay in the tailcap where it belongs...

As for slight press to momentary, use some kind of 1mm washer between boot and pressing part of switch, maybe your boot when installed is already pushing it by part of mm, enough to switch the light on by meaner look at it...

sween1911 · Jan 24, 2013

Ah ha. It must be contacting bare metal at the bottom of the tailcap. If I back the module out just a few turns, I can get it to lock out.

The tailcap isn't collector-age old, it says "SUREFIRE USA" across the top and "WWW.SUREFIRE.COM" around the bottom, there's black ano inside and out.

Addition... Hrm... there appears to be a nick on a thread inside the tailcap, it's slightly mangled and I can see a bare spot. That explains why it was so hard to get the plastic washer out, it was grinding. It appears that the threads are contacting the brass inside.

Tana said:
+1

Either make sure if there is ano on the threads in the tailcap, if there is, no lock-out... if it's "normal" Surefire with same anodization from inside as from outside, you just need to tighten brass ring and make it firm so it doesn't follow unscrew motion thus staying attached to the body rather than stay in the tailcap where it belongs...

As for slight press to momentary, use some kind of 1mm washer between boot and pressing part of switch, maybe your boot when installed is already pushing it by part of mm, enough to switch the light on by meaner look at it...

sween1911 · Jan 24, 2013

Following up, I decided to switch some things around. Took the tailcap off of my C2 and swapped the innards for the McClicky. Works perfect now, lock-out and everything. I put that on the Z3 and the mometary back on the C2.

Thanks to everyone for the info!

So we can't lock-out McClickys?

sween1911

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yellow

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sween1911

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Cerealand

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Pekka

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Tana

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sween1911

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sween1911

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