Help me pick out a titanium flashlight, or 3

aznsx

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Yes, I did notice that. I believe 3 amps compared to 2. That was one reason that I went ahead and ordered them. I'm not sure what those little lights need, on turbo mode.

I would guess that he won't be back in the office until Tuesday, but I'll let you know what he says.

I'm not sure either, because I haven't felt like removing the tailcap (which I understand can be a bit 'fiddly' to put back on) to measure it;-), and it would likely vary depending on the LED anyway. We'll see what they have to say. I'd probably take their lead on this one. Nice to have great support, in English, in your time zone, huh?:)
 

aznsx

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I'm not sure what those little lights need, on turbo mode.

If I had to take a wild guess, and sometimes we have to do that, I'd say most of them probably draw 1.5-2A (or perhaps a bit more, but nothing over 2.5) at max output. For a ballpark, working assumption number, I'd probably pick 2A to use. ICBW, and I don't know how much variance between LEDs, but that's just a very rough guess. When it comes time to replace a switch, I'll no doubt pause and try all my heads on that tube / body and write them down.
 
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Guitar Guy

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the tailcap (which I understand can be a bit 'fiddly' to put back on)
Here is a photo he sent me of the dis-assembled tail cap. He said to put a piece of paper between the clip & body to keep from scratching. I'm thinking something thicker like a piece of manila file folder or match book.

I'll ask him about the current draw too.

EagTac switch.png
 

aznsx

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Here is a photo he sent me of the dis-assembled tail cap.
Thanks! Now I see what's involved for when I need to replace a switch.

He said to put a piece of paper between the clip & body to keep from scratching.

I do that with a number of different lights. I know they'll get abuse patina, but I hate to just scratch the H out of them with sloppy techniques. I often use a Post-It note, but have also slipped a plastic drinking straw over the clip with good results.

Now I completely understand why some have found the tailcap R/R tricky. The 'minimum form factor' design results in the tailcap component parts are not being held in position by an inside snap ring, nor by a threaded collar (as either would add length). This means when they tried to remove the tailcap to install a cell, having not RTM first, when they succeeded in getting it off those components undoubtedly fell right out on the table in a pile, and they freaked.

Beyond that, I can see that reassembly is likely tricky and requires care and patience, which many folks lack. It will be necessary to insert those components into the tailcap, and then keep them in position while reinstalling the tailcap on the body, which doesn't sound that bad, but...... That will be made more difficult by the fact that there's little distance between the beginning of the threading in the body and the end of the body, and that while also keeping the pieces properly in the tailcap throughout the process, those will have to be aligned perfectly to start the threads, and the excellent (but quite strong) clip will be fighting the installer by its tendency to keep the two pieces at an angle during the process, and that pressure (which I expect will be considerable) will have to be overcome during the whole process of reinstalling the tailcap.

I can see why some may call the job 'fiddley", and some have found it difficult. Fortunately I won't find out until I need to replace a switch / component, but I'll be prepared in advance. That photo helped! I'm sure I'll be fine, but will not be looking forward to doing it either. While don't use clips much, I also don't want to remove remove it either, because it's a great design and doesn't bother me or get in my way at all. I'd prefer not to remove those screws though.
 

Guitar Guy

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have also slipped a plastic drinking straw over the clip with good results.
Now that's a good idea. I even have some of those high volume larger diameter plastic straws that I think would fit over the clip well. When you mentioned before about it being fiddley, I figured that's what it had to be - the clip putting perpendicular pressure on the threads & assembly as you're trying to thread it on. Doesn't look too bad, but one of those things where you need 3 hands, one to hold the light, one to thread it on, and one to hold the clip up out of the way. I agree about not wanting to remove the clip screws if you don't have to. Using the straw, and letting it slide as it turns may very well make it easier, and to use the first finger of the right hand to take some of the clip pressure off of the tube as you turn. I figured that picture would help you out a little ;)

I sent the email. Should hear back tomorrow about the battery length and amperage.
 

aznsx

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I note that the 16340 and 14500 on ET's site are both rated at 3 or more amps. If they're a fit, I'm almost certain they will meet the demands of the lights you ordered, and probably with good margin / headroom to spare. I can't imagine any of these lights drawing 3A. I like margins and headroom, as they help as cell deg(redation) comes into play, and IR increases. We can use those margins later. If they fit the lights, I may even order a couple of each when my light ships. I have multiple As and Cs to feed;-) They're the only lights I have several of. They've been LED test mules for me, and I also find them very useful as a bonus. I prefer that to buyiing 'junk lights' just to check out an LED, which I wouldn't end up using, as they would just be 'write-offs'.
 

Guitar Guy

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They've been LED test mules for me, and I also find them very useful as a bonus. I prefer that to buyiing 'junk lights' just to check out an LED, which I wouldn't end up using, as they would just be 'write-offs'.
I agree. I don't think I've bought a single "budget light" yet. Not that there aren't some good ones, but I think flashlights fit into the category of "you get what you pay for". And that's not to say that all expensive lights are good, or that all cheaper ones aren't worth it. Each has to be evaluated on a case by case basis.

When I see a light for $19.99, I have to think some corners have to have been cut somewhere. Lots of the more popular inexpensive brands out there are such that I don't have to do much research because most have a rubber plugged charge port, which is an automatic no-go for me.

I expect a decent light to cost at least $60 to 80 or more dollars, depending on size, and I have no problem paying that much or more for a known dependable name brand. Most of my purchases are fairly well thought out and researched, and most have worked out well.

Really the only one that didn't was the Jetbeam RRT01 that came DOA from banggood. I did get all of my money back, and still have the dead light, but I questioned it's durability after that, and decided that $85 would be better off going toward the titanium EagTacs.
 

SCEMan

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I'm going to email him to see if he thinks the battery length is still an issue, maybe see if he will try those ET cells in a D3A and a D3C, and if it's a problem, maybe remove them from my order. I'll probably order a couple of Nitecores for them anyway. You said that the 14500 & 16340 both fit well, didn't you?
I use Kinoko and ET 14500s in my D25A and D3A w/o any fit issues.

He said to put a piece of paper between the clip & body to keep from scratching.
Neither of my ET titanium AA light clips scratch the body.
 

SCEMan

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That will be made more difficult by the fact that there's little distance between the beginning of the threading in the body and the end of the body, and that while also keeping the pieces properly in the tailcap throughout the process, those will have to be aligned perfectly to start the threads, and the excellent (but quite strong) clip will be fighting the installer by its tendency to keep the two pieces at an angle during the process, and that pressure (which I expect will be considerable) will have to be overcome during the whole process of reinstalling the tailcap.

I can see why some may call the job 'fiddley", and some have found it difficult. Fortunately I won't find out until I need to replace a switch / component, but I'll be prepared in advance. That photo helped! I'm sure I'll be fine, but will not be looking forward to doing it either. While don't use clips much, I also don't want to remove remove it either, because it's a great design and doesn't bother me or get in my way at all. I'd prefer not to remove those screws though.
Agreed. I've removed both tailcaps and titanium makes it doubly difficult. It's pretty hard to manage the process w/o removing the clip (very small allen wrench). It's a chore threading the tailcap onto the body (use thread lube) due to the aforementioned fine threading and the Ti will make it tougher.
 

aznsx

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Agreed. I've removed both tailcaps and titanium makes it doubly difficult. It's pretty hard to manage the process w/o removing the clip (very small allen wrench). It's a chore threading the tailcap onto the body (use thread lube) due to the aforementioned fine threading and the Ti will make it tougher.
Thanx for that insight. Although I think I will be able to manage it, I'm definitely not looking forward to switch replacements, let's just put it that way.

Ti is wonderful stuff, but it famously compromises threaded applications. Given what is a difficult process already, adding Ti into the equation I'm sure exacerbates the difficulties with the process by some significant factor. That's not why I don't buy the Ti versions of these lights, but when it comes time to replace a switch, I'll likely be glad mine are Al.

The common threading challenges w/ threaded Ti parts are a factor, but in most engineering, what advantages come without a cost or tradeoff? Very few, if any. It's always about prioritized tradeoffs in my experience. If I wanted the Ti version, I would buy it. I will say that given that a rotational action involving threaded parts (head) is involved in routine operation of the UI of these lights would make me even less likely to go with Ti, but I'd still buy those versions if that were my material of choice for other reasons. In that case I would make the tradeoff and go with it. Although heavy (vs Al), they do have a certain appeal.

Several areas (3) of my body are now reconstructed using Ti alloy where no other material can match it, and the connecting rods in my engine are magic for low reciprocating mass and making my 8K redline practical. Those are personal applications which absolutely justify its higher cost of material / machining. Those are great tradeoffs.

Al is optimal in some apps, and Ti in others. They are both exceedingly wonderful materials. Heck with engineering, life is full of prioritized tradeoffs in general, and if I wanted the finish despite the added weight, I'd definitely go with Ti myself!

EDIT: Speaking of conn rods, is that your C2 in your thumbnail, and if so, what is it?;-)
 
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aznsx

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I use Kinoko and ET 14500s in my D25A and D3A w/o any fit issues.
That's good info to know. EDIT: It's good that ET has (apparently) corrected the issue w/ length for their 14500 cells re: D-series 'A' lights. I like options.

For the benefit of any reader needing cells for those lights, I should go ahead and post my choices for 14500s for these lights, which I found after realizing that the ET cells of that time were far too long for the application (and still sit NIB, unused to this day).

These are my daily drivers in these lights:


At 49.5 mm, they're the shortest prot. 14500s I know of, and are therefore optimal for these 'A' lights. Amazingly, they also have direct micro-USB charging as well! While that was not a decision factor, I like having a few such cells of each size I use most, because they're handy when traveling, which is just an added bonus. I'm sure you might appreciate that as well. They tested well when new.

At 50.5 mm, these are my second choice. While a bit longer, they're still acceptable to use, and I am therefore using these as well. They don't 'feel' as good when I use them, so they're second choice. They also tested well when new:


At 51.1 mm, the cells currently listed on the IG site are likely OK, but I still prefer the shortest good cells I can get in these lights. It's good to know about them for another option, and they have a good current rating for more 'headroom' as well:


I definitely don't like to over-compress compression springs in flashlights, as that can cause issues, and all else equal, shorter is better. Given that I used shorter, unprotected cells for a good while until I found the above, I know what these lights should feel like with a proper length cell, and if the spring is nearing over-compression before the head bottoms out, I can feel that, and it's something which is something I want to avoid.
 
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Guitar Guy

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Question for EagTac users. If you have the AA version, whether aluminum or titanium, on group 2, "head tight" condition, does your light toggle from turbo to strobe with a "half press", as it should?
 

Guitar Guy

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Well, my beautiful little Titanium EagTacs both had problems with the mode programming in the UI, so I had to return them.

I've since found a US supplier of Convoys who ordered me a T4, so that I don't have to directly deal with shipping / returns to China. They look like sweet little lights to me. May consider a T3 at some point.

I was considering the Maratac Ti AAA, but read some bad reviews about loose threads and mode skipping when rotating the head.

Reylight is coming out with a new one this spring to replace the Lanapple. Looks like it may be interesting.

Any other suggestions, lemme know.
 

BattleBrat

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Well, my beautiful little Titanium EagTacs both had problems with the mode programming in the UI, so I had to return them.

I've since found a US supplier of Convoys who ordered me a T4, so that I don't have to directly deal with shipping / returns to China. They look like sweet little lights to me. May consider a T3 at some point.

I was considering the Maratac Ti AAA, but read some bad reviews about loose threads and mode skipping when rotating the head.

Reylight is coming out with a new one this spring to replace the Lanapple. Looks like it may be interesting.

Any other suggestions, lemme know.
Convoy S2+ with the shortened tube and a Surefire 18350. H17Fx driver Nichia 519 4500k or Luminus SSt20 4000K 95CRI with a 15degree beaded TIR optic. This is what I'm building right now.
I also have Titanium T3's and T4's. Pic is of my S21G Ti (a 27100 thrower) and my shortened s2+ Ti and my T3
 

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Guitar Guy

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@BattleBrat , thanks for the photos. Nice lights! I just got the T4 with the 519a - 4500K and really like it. I'm soon going to order a T3, and have been eyeballing the S21G as well. Do you know if the S21G will take a protected cell? Seems that I read that it takes un-protected, which may be a little shorter. I currently have all protected ones.
 

BattleBrat

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@BattleBrat , thanks for the photos. Nice lights! I just got the T4 with the 519a - 4500K and really like it. I'm soon going to order a T3, and have been eyeballing the S21G as well. Do you know if the S21G will take a protected cell? Seems that I read that it takes un-protected, which may be a little shorter. I currently have all protected ones.
I have a protected Fenix I can try in it, it has an Efest in it at the moment.
 

BattleBrat

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The S21G is a thrower (see pic) here is is compared to my T4 519 4500K Ti. It looks yellowish in the pic but it's a clean white with good color. You'll love the T3 Ti, it's a hefty little beast, here it is compared to a S2+ Ti 18350 body. The Streamlight 1L/1AA Clip fits it well
 

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ChrisGarrett

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EagleTac D25C Ti. clicky 2014 for me.

I've EDCed it for the past 5 years.

Similar to the one Poppy posted above.

Chris
 

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