EagleTac T20C2 still relevant? — loving mine!!

What about ET's ex-flagship the venerable T20C2 (MkI hit the market in 09/2009, MkII is the current version), do you owners still find it relevant?

And how many owners among cpf regulars are out there?

I talked to flashlight dealers and they state that it is still a best-selling model from ET's entire catalog. I see little discussion or mention here .. but i cannot stop marveling at its beauty, power, build quality and versatility. Imo it's become a classic among 1x18650 flashlight models similar to the classic status of the Fenix LD20/22/L2D/L2T/etc among all 2xAA flashlights :huh:

It appears of timeless relevance, don't you agree? Any love left?

EagleTac WHITE LED T20C2 modules:

• CREE XM-L2 U2 CW, Led lumen: 850/126/12, ANSI FL-1 lumen: 681/101/10, C2100 V
• CREE XM-L2 T6 NW, Led lumen: n/a, ANSI FL-1 lumen: n/a, C2100 V (listed new yet questionable!)
• CREE XM-L U2 CW, Led lumen: 770/113/13, ANSI FL-1: 620(626)/97/11, C2100 V (questionable data by iG)
• CREE XM-L U2 CW, Led lumen: 750/110/12, ANSI FL-1 lumen: 600/90/10, C2100 V (data by ET)
• CREE XM-L T6 CW, Led lumen: 720/105/12, ANSI FL-1 Lumen: 580/90/10, C2100 V
• CREE XM-L T6 CW, Led lumen: max 550 (=430 OTF), OTF lumen: 430/60/5, C2100 M
• CREE XM-L T6 NW, Led lumen: max 720, ANSI FL-1 Lumen: 580 (iG), C2100 V
• CREE XP-G2 R5 CW, Led lumen: 530/113/14, ANSI FL-1 lumen: 418/92/11, C1500 V
• CREE XP-G2 R4 NW, Led lumen: n/a, ANSI FL-1 lumen: n/a, C1500 V (listed new yet questionable!)
• CREE XP-G S2 CW, Led lumen: 500(493)/105/12, ANSI FL-1 lumen: 375/85/10, C1500 V
• CREE XP-G R5 CW, Led lumen: max 380 (=300 OTF), OTF lumen: "300/60/5", C1200 III
• CREE XP-G R4 5A NW, Led lumen: max 375, ANSI FL-1 lumen: 290 (iG), C1200 III
• CREE XR-E R2 CW, Led lumen: 290(285)/65/8 "300/60/5", OTF lumen: 230/50/4, C1200 II
• CREE XP-E Q4 5A NW, Led lumen: 270/55/5, OTF lumen: 215/45/4, C1200 II
• CREE XP-E Q4 5A NW, Led lumen: max 240 (=190 OTF), OTF lumen: 190/60/5, (C1200 I?)

EagleTac COLOR LED T20C2 modules:

• CREE XP-E RED R2/N4, Led lumen: 137/12, OTF lumen: n/a, dual-mode, 620nm, C850
• CREE XP-E GREEN G2/Q4, Led lumen: 182/25, OTF lumen: n/a, dual-mode, 520nm, C850
• CREE XP-E PURE BLUE B4/K3, Led lumen: 80/8, OTF lumen: n/a, dual-mode, 470nm, C850
• CREE XP-E ROYAL BLUE D4/15, Led lumen: 86/6 (856mW/80mW), OTF lumen: n/a, dual-mode, 460nm, C850
• CREE XP-E AMBER (YELLOW), Led lumen: n/a, OTF lumen: n/a, 595nm, dual-mode, C850

EagleTac INFRARED LED T20C2 modules:

• OSRAM IR Platinum DRAGON: 850nm, 3.0W (or 3.4W iG special)
• OSRAM IR Platinum DRAGON: 940nm

EagleTac ULTRAVIOLET LED T20C2 modules:

• LEDENGINE UV: 395-400nm, 5.0W
• LEDENGINE UV: 365-370nm, 5.0W
• EDISON UV: 395nm, 3.0W
• EDISON UV: 365nm, High Output (iG special)

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I`m done for now with rear click, twist to adjust lights. Just seemed like a fad...tactical cool factor. But that style was copied by everyone. Seems to yesterday to me. I prefer side switches now days. And I really don`t care to have to use two hands to control levels. A classic design...yes...but for the money, now days... I only need so many museum peices resting in my drawer.

And I like power level info...to manage my cells...and know where I stand time wise. I want to see the new Nitecore info type display in single batt lights. And that shall come to pass...soon. I demand it, so it is written, so it shall be.

Best light out there if you need a colored LED.

Researching for a friend who needs colors, we went from wavelengths he needed, to emitters, and tried to find lights using them.

I was sure he'd wind up with a P60 host and some drop-ins. :laughing:

It's a pain to get oddball emitters in p60 drop-ins. No one makes a lineup. You have to research every unit: what emitter is it (really), how is it driven? There are no specs; emitter age and bins vary, as does assembly quality. We'd have to trial-and-error a bunch of sketchy drop-ins from China! :sick2:

The T20C2 offers 15+ colors, with emitter specs, good drivers, and warranties. :twothumbs

ET is being really smart in covering this niche, as the folks who need these wavelengths are less price-sensitive. :thinking:

I miss mine, never should have traded it for an sc600.

Badbeams3 said:

I`m done for now with rear click, twist to adjust lights. Just seemed like a fad...tactical cool factor. But that style was copied by everyone. Seems to yesterday to me. I prefer side switches now days. And I really don`t care to have to use two hands to control levels. A classic design...yes...but for the money, now days... I only need so many museum peices resting in my drawer.

And I like power level info...to manage my cells...and know where I stand time wise. I want to see the new Nitecore info type display in single batt lights. And that shall come to pass...soon. I demand it, so it is written, so it shall be.

Click to expand...

I agree more or less, as I'd like to see some type of real time indication of how much battery life is left without having to guess, and I hate having to replace a mostly charged battery with a newly charged one, right before I go camping, just because I'm not 100% sure how much charge is left. But at the same time, I dont want or need my flashlight to start looking like a computer, with a gaudy LCD screen that weighs down the light, wastes battery power, and makes it less durable because now you must worry about scratching or breaking the screen. I am perfectly content with something like what you see on a few of the lights coming out now, where it just blinks the corresponding number of volts left in the battery(s).


But at the same time, even though it is convenient to have a light that measures voltage, as long as you have a basic digital mutimeter, and you use it monitor your batteries occasionally, then realistically a lights ability to measure remaining voltage is more of a novelty than a necessity. Before I leave to go on a trip, while taking a light, I always make sure to fully charge the batteries, or at least to measure the accurate voltage to ensure the battery in the light is mostly charged, and I'll usually bring a spare battery(s), so even without the ability to measure voltage on the fly, I've never been left in the dark so to speak..... Besides, I kinda enjoy that preparation anyway, so its not exactly a chore and only takes a minute or so.

I'm overall very happy with EagleTac lights. I got several of them early on as a flashaholic (I also have a G25C2 and two D25C lights).

I'm very happy with the UI, looks, and performance of the T20C2. So much so that I bought two Mk II lights - both in 2012. I bought them with XM-L LEDs - one CW and one NW. One light has been safety-orange Cerakoted. That one also currently hosts a RED LED.

I agree with CouldUseALight that EagleTac does a nice job of offering different LEDs, nice filter kits (the flip-up holder on the G25C2 is excellent) and other accessories.

I never had one, but it seems like a nice light.

The layout was good, and wasn't afflicted with one of those horrid side switches.

No,, the T20C2 is no longer relevant.

Because I got the TX25C2.

Mine is T20C2 MK1. Even after several attempts to abuse the internals, it still works! I put it at the same par as the older Olight M20 XR-E.
Both are very good and tough gear.

Short of a P60 host, there's no other light out there that gives you the flexibility that of T20C2 MkII's.

Not to mention that it's a tough nut to crack. It just REFUSES to die.

Only 13 votes? :tired:

I have a neutral version and love it. I use it very often in low light tactical training. It is plenty bright and I love the UI for what I do with the light.

I just received my ordered CoolWhite XP-G2 R5 module, illuminationGear and any other authorized ET dealer have them. My old CoolWhite XP-G S2 module has still a most amazing freezing CoolWhite tint, uniformly so across the beam profile, but this new XP-G2 R5 module makes me want to cry out of joy :mecry: .. it is even better!

From my experience with XP-G2's i would assert that any XP-G2 CW is an instant pleaser and a no-brainer. I am extremely pleased with the module purchase and this flashlight model. I am also going to get the XM-L2 U2 CW module (rated 681 ANSI ET lumens) hoping that its tint is superior to CREE XM-L U2 CW (rated 600 ANSI ET lumens) !! Afaicr the XM-L T6 CW module was rated at 580 ANSI ET lumens.



Updated NW modules are also available (XP-G2 R4 NW, XM-L2 T6 NW), niceeeee!

Love them. No different than a P60 host I think. And, the modules can be taken apart and redone, so likely it could be turned into a pure click light. As long as the modules are updated for it, it will remain relevant. Then again, even if it isn't updated, its still on par with pretty much all the lights in its class.

I wish I had bought more during the christmas clearance's I saw where some were going for 45 or so.

thats very true for my eagletacs as well shelm , the beam tint on my 3 eagletacs is very nice indeed. im overall impressed with beamtint/build quality/ power output+runtime... in any of my eagletacs.

Just got one of these. XM-L neutral white. Not sure what bin. I really like it. Especially all the goodies it came with.

Hopefully they do keep releasing better and brighter drop-ins for it.

Plus - 10 year warranty? Nice.

enomosiki said:

Short of a P60 host, there's no other light out there that gives you the flexibility that of T20C2 MkII's.

Click to expand...

+1 absolutely agree:thumbsup:. While P60 dropins are more flexible in terms of customization, the Eagletac modules are the next best thing.

If you are the DIY type of person you can also take them apart and modify them as I have done here.

It was originally part of lights that I'd take with me when I travelled, but it has now been replaced with AA based lights.

Have the original XP-E NW version. Really like its UI and build.

Has anyone got the XM-L2 module yet?

Always wanted one, but other drop-in modules are hard to get here.