McLuxIII-PD Upgrade

Hi, all, been a long time since I've been around here, and found my old PD the other day, circa 2005. It's been a really good light, it has signs of wear, which means it got a lot of use back in those days. I was actually looking for a new light a few days ago while on here, when I ran across it. I thought, you know, this really still has a great design, small and compact, and functions really well, has two levels, which to be honest, is all most people need.

So, in my research, I was delighted to find the Wiz2x2 driver that was used in mine, is compatible with RCR123a's (which is what I'm wanting to use, since primary's are so expensive). So, really all I need to be back up and running, is a few RCR123a's and a charger.

This got me to wondering though, as I did several years ago, if the PD could be upgraded somehow. It currently has a LuxeonIII TYOJ emitter in it. If memory serves me, the driver is setup to provide CC 30mA on low, and ~530mA on high. Is there anything easy that could be done to upgrade the emitter (get a little more output, maybe slightly warmer color), without upgrading the entire light? Like could I get away with just the emitter, maybe a reflector change?

If so, is this something I could DIY (I have experience soldering and what not), or would this be a service Don provides?

Thanks for reading!

Jason

Why don't you read the thread "Using the XPE-2 in a McGizmo creation -- even in the Ti PD-S !?" in this forum (currently, below your thread but still in first page)?

I would be interested in your thoughts, maybe they are similar to mine:thumbsup:

You'll need a Cree XP-G on an 8mm carrier board, and a McR20-S reflector to replace the McR20-L reflector your light currently has. Alternately, someone like DatiLED ought to be able to do the work for you.

I did see that, flashy. I actually have no idea on the LED right now. I've been so far behind LEDs lately, the last ones I really knew anything about, were Luxeon Stars! It's been a few years. Slowly trying to catch up.

Did you see this thread? Holy crap, this would be amazing, and to be honest, it would be a useful light for me, because I typically only use a bright light like that, for a few seconds at most. That would make a great EDC.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...orld-s-brightest-Ti-PD&highlight=brightest+pd

Where do you get carrier boards for LED's? Thanks for the suggestion, fyrstormer.

The modded Ti-PD in that thread no longer has a proper Piston Drive interface; the piston acts as a single-mode momentary switch, similar to the tactical switches for Surefire lights, and the brightness setting is changed by "blinking" the light. So it's not an ideal setup if you really like the PD interface.

For the record, those old LEDs weren't called Luxeon Stars, they were just called Luxeons. "Star" is the nickname for the six-pointed metal-core circuit board some LEDs are mounted to.

I believe Illumination Supply sells 8mm carrier boards for XP-G and XM-L emitters. You have to do the soldering yourself, though; to do the soldering, you'll need a syringe of solder paste, a pair of needle-nose pliers, and a hot-air soldering workstation or an electric stove. (you stick the emitter and the carrier board together with the solder paste, then heat the carrier board to melt the solder paste.)

Oh, that kinda stinks. I was trying to figure out the interface, but was having a hard time with the description. I like the PD interface. It's the best of both worlds clicky and twisty. Maybe I'll look at the Tri EDC as an addition to add to the rotation.

So what is the reflow point of the solder paste? Is that something you'd want to do in your cooking oven, or just get maybe a hot plate?

Yes, I remember the stars, sorry, shouldn't have referred to them as an LED, but an assembly. I was actually going to use those in a DIY light, because they were easy to heat sink to a block of metal with some screws and maybe thermal paste...but obviously those are obsolete.

Of all the days to leave my PD at home, our office building's lighting system went down today. The backup generator provided emergency lights, but none in the bathrooms. Pitch black...

Geogecko said:

I did see that, flashy. I actually have no idea on the LED right now. I've been so far behind LEDs lately, the last ones I really knew anything about, were Luxeon Stars! It's been a few years. Slowly trying to catch up.

Did you see this thread? Holy crap, this would be amazing, and to be honest, it would be a useful light for me, because I typically only use a bright light like that, for a few seconds at most. That would make a great EDC.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...orld-s-brightest-Ti-PD&highlight=brightest+pd

Where do you get carrier boards for LED's? Thanks for the suggestion, fyrstormer.

Click to expand...

OK, I see better now where you are coming from. My idea was simply to get a newer LED, leaving almost everything else practically unchanged. This means, an EDC with decent runtime and very useful levels for most normal circumstances.

The route you are thinking -- triple-LED's and max blast -- has its attractions, but not I think in an EDC format, since the runtime will be terrible.

I have a triple-LED in a max blast format as a P60 compatible drop-in from Oveready, which I use in a 2xLi-Ion package (2x18500 to be exact) which gives me the 1,100 lumens (newer drop-ins have raised this level even more) for 75 minute runtime, which is quite useful.

So I don't see myself modding the Ti PD-S in this direction, though I agree the datiLED creation looks fantastic!

Geogecko said:

Oh, that kinda stinks. I was trying to figure out the interface, but was having a hard time with the description. I like the PD interface. It's the best of both worlds clicky and twisty. Maybe I'll look at the Tri EDC as an addition to add to the rotation.

Click to expand...

The Tri-EDC is a nice light. I have one with a copper shell.

Geogecko said:

So what is the reflow point of the solder paste? Is that something you'd want to do in your cooking oven, or just get maybe a hot plate?

Click to expand...

I don't know the exact temperature necessary to melt the solder paste, but I was able to melt it by setting the LED+MCPCB on the outermost coil of one of my electric stove burners. I used a pair of ship-in-a-bottle pliers to hold the MCPCB securely without having to get my hand too close to the burner.

Geogecko said:

Yes, I remember the stars, sorry, shouldn't have referred to them as an LED, but an assembly. I was actually going to use those in a DIY light, because they were easy to heat sink to a block of metal with some screws and maybe thermal paste...but obviously those are obsolete.

Click to expand...

Not entirely obsolete, actually. The six-pointed-star boards are still available for the popular LED models, but in the interest of making your PD mod as easy as possible, the 8mm round boards are best because they adapt the size of the new LED to fit the footprint of the old LED.

Geogecko said:

Of all the days to leave my PD at home, our office building's lighting system went down today. The backup generator provided emergency lights, but none in the bathrooms. Pitch black...

Click to expand...

Ain't that always the way...

Thanks for the tips. So, what is used to put the MCPCB down onto the head? A thermal epoxy, paste?

And did you heat the head to scrape the old off?

Do the XP-G LEDs come in different tints? Looking for something a little warmer than my TYOJ that is currently in my PD. Maybe closer to how warm my U2 Ultra is. Guessing somewhere around 4-5k?

Dang, I have a gas stove, lol...

As far as LEDs, Illumination Supply only carries an XP-G 90+ High CRI at 3000K, or an XP-G2 in 5000K that are bare LEDs. Are the G2's dimensions the same as the original?

Also, guess I would have to get the reflector from the Sandwich Shoppe, right?

Would I need to shim the LED at all to get the proper focus with the new reflector? Also, is the thermal epoxy the way to attach it, or should I go with maybe a thermal pad?

What fyrstormer said is pretty dead on. You can also get a 8mm board from the Sandwich Shoppe along with the McR20S reflector required. I have found, though, that adding a copper slug (also available from the Shoppe) between the mPCB and the heat sink raises the XP-G2 (of course you will use the latest, right? ) up into a perfect focus point.

XM-L2

Geogecko said:

Would I need to shim the LED at all to get the proper focus with the new reflector? Also, is the thermal epoxy the way to attach it, or should I go with maybe a thermal pad?

Click to expand...

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:

What fyrstormer said is pretty dead on. You can also get a 8mm board from the Sandwich Shoppe along with the McR20S reflector required. I have found, though, that adding a copper slug (also available from the Shoppe) between the mPCB and the heat sink raises the XP-G2 (of course you will use the latest, right? ) up into a perfect focus point.

Click to expand...

What SOYCD said is spot on. However, you will need to file the top and bottom edge of the 8mm board (opposite of where the leads attach) to give yourself some wiggle room when centering the LED.

Use 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper to polish the copper shim and bottom of the LED board (prior to soldering the LED). When the LED is mounted on the board, use thermal epoxy to seat the copper shim and LED board in the seat. Quickly install the reflector, o-ring, window and bezel. Tighten the bezel down to seat everything properly. Remove the bezel and window, and use a pair of tweezers or other tool to center the LED in the reflector. Rotate the head and look at the LED centering from many different positions to be sure that it looks centered. Allow the thermal epoxy to fully cure with the reflector in place. Remove the o-ring and reflector and solder the leads to the board (observing the polarity). If you pretin the pads before installation, this will be much easier. Tin the ends of the lead wires, and use a pair of flat jaw pliers to flatten the wire ends. This will provide a smooth, flat solder joint that will avoid a short circuit with the reflector. Use solder flux for a smooth joint.

FWIW, you do not need to replace the reflector. You can use a fine file to remove 0.030" from the LED end of the reflector. Hold the reflector parallel to the file, resting the file on a flat surface. Make 3 - 5 passes over the file, and rotate the reflector 90 degrees. Do this until you have removed enough material. Use a chop stick or dowel to remove the burrs of metal that form at the opening, being very careful not to touch the inside of the reflector. (Use a circular scraping motion, pushing the tool from opening to LED end. The wood does a great job of catching the burrs, and folding them out of the reflector opening.) Give one more light pass on the file, or over some wet/dry sandpaper to clean up any small burrs hanging at the opening. Plug the LED end with your finger (from the back), and fill the reflector with Dawn, or other dish soap that doesn't contain lotion, or skin softeners. Run scalding hot water in the sink, and allow the strong stream of hot water to rinse any dust that collected in the reflector. Quickly dry the outside of the reflector with a paper towel, not touching the inside. Use compressed air to blow any water droplets from the inside of the reflector. Do not leave even a single drop! It will dry to a water spot.

You are now ready for final assembly. Be sure to clean the LED and solder joints with an alcohol saturated Q-tip before closing the head. Flux residue is really ugly. Test the leads for continuity before connecting them to the converter board. Be sure to test your light before installing the reflector, o-ring, window and bezel. Enjoy the bright. :thumbsup:

Wow Derek. You must really know what you are doing right?
If I have one to do, it is surely going to you.

Derek does know what he is talking about and is definitely a skilled modder and machiner. We do disagree a little bit here on the proper reflector to use for XP-G and XP-G2 LEDs in the PD lights. I've tried to use the stock reflector from the ones with the Lux LEDs and even with trimming I am not fully pleased with the beam shape of the McR20. I find the McR20S version to be a direct drop-in and give a focus with a nice spot blending into a very useful corona.

I know this is a very subjective topic so I don't want to start any form of a flame war.

SOYCD, We do agree on the fact that the McR20S is a direct drop in reflector for use with the XP-G, or XM-L LEDs and produces a quality beam. I was just pointing out that the stock reflector can be used with good results, IMO. (The stock McR20 reflector can also be used unmodified.) While the McR20S is my preferred reflector for use with the XP-G, or XM-L LEDs, reusing the stock McR20 will save the owner $22.57 (the cost of an McR20S, with shipping).

We won't be doing any flaming here.

No worries, guys. I like the discussion, and I'm learning a lot. Way more than I would have ever thought about doing this mod myself. I felt like the mod was really worth it for this light, but did not want to practice on it myself, so decided to let someone that offered to do it for me, work on it.

There are three versions of the McR20: The Seoul version, the Luxeon version, and the Luxeon Joker version. The Seoul and Luxeon versions supposedly have the same focal point, but I agree with SOYCD that there's something imperceptibly not-quite-right about the beam pattern of the Luxeon version when used with anything besides a Luxeon emitter. The Luxeon Joker version, on the other hand, has a different focal point by design and probably won't work with any other emitter -- though you could always try one anyway, just for kicks.