First dive light build

Hi there. I am brand new here and attepming my first dive light build.
I am following the instructions here- http://www.bnsengineering.com/divelights.htm
and still in the materials-gathering phase. Got most everything together with the exception of the O-ring for my lid. I have found them at McMaster Carr, Grainger, and a few others....but most of these places sell then in quantities of 50 or 100! I just want 4 or 5 at the most.
Did find once place online that sells them "each" but the minimum shipping charge is $7.95....so I might as well buy 50 from the other guys.
Here is my question- Where can I go to buy a few of these O-rings and not get killed on shipping?

Thanks,
Chris

Is $7.95 that much to worry about? Just have a good think about what you need and make it worth while. Perhaps some spares for your tank valves/regulators etc. Otherwise there will be somewhere local that sells Orings.
For me its http://www.sealhouse.co.nz/

Packhorse said:

Is $7.95 that much to worry about? Just have a good think about what you need and make it worth while. Perhaps some spares for your tank valves/regulators etc. Otherwise there will be somewhere local that sells Orings.
For me its http://www.sealhouse.co.nz/

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Generally, no....not that much to worry about. But something about buying $3 worth of o-rings and paying almost triple in shipping...just makes me think "there must be a better way".
Also makes me think that someone must have run into this in the past and found a more reasonable solution. Figured it was worth an ask.

Chris

.....and another small project to add to my list.
I got started on this canister light because my Ebay made-in-china dive light flooded.
For the 20 mins that it worked, it worked great. Nice bright beam, etc....
The salt water made a mess of the inside in short order. I dried it out and cleaned up the corrosion and it works, except for the reed switch...the light is on all the time.
So, here is the light that I got- http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKYRAY-1800...Flashlights&hash=item5d3f247745#ht_6954wt_918

I am guessing it would be easiest to replace the driver module? Or does anyone have some advice on this?

Thanks,
Chris

I don't think it will be that easy to replace driver.
I'm pretty sure it does not have reed switch, it will have hall effect sensor.
Did you remove magnet when cleaning? If yes did you put it in the same way it was? Try to rotate it 180 and see if it helps. Magnet orientation is important here.

arek98 said:

I don't think it will be that easy to replace driver.
I'm pretty sure it does not have reed switch, it will have hall effect sensor.
Did you remove magnet when cleaning? If yes did you put it in the same way it was? Try to rotate it 180 and see if it helps. Magnet orientation is important here.

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Aha!! Good to know. I will try it and see what happens.
Thanks!

Chris

I have found that the secret to these cheap lights is to check everything before using them. main things to check are the threads for swarfe and sharp edges that can damage the O rings, also make sure the O rings are clean and lubed and every thing is tight and snug.

greenacarina said:

Got most everything together with the exception of the O-ring for my lid. I have found them at McMaster Carr, Grainger, and a few others....but most of these places sell then in quantities of 50 or 100! I just want 4 or 5 at the most.

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Go to a local seal company and get however many you need. any city with population 15k+ will have one. Search "seal" "rubber" "gasket". If you have a Parker oring number you can do it over the phone.

tjones96761 said:

Go to a local seal company and get however many you need. any city with population 15k+ will have one. Search "seal" "rubber" "gasket". If you have a Parker oring number you can do it over the phone.

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Well, I now know more about o-rings than I did before! Got the o-rings I needed from Ebay.
I think I have all the parts and pieces I need. Now comes the cutting and shaping of PCV. What a mess!!
I will post pics and whatnot when I finish.

We made dive lights for cave diving. Poly carbonate 1/4" cylinders, 1/2" bottom plate, 1/4" top plate, 2 x 12v 9ah sealed cells, compression fittings for the wire, magnet reed switch threw the power relay for off / on. Sort of mimicked a Diverite without the failure points. Zero failure points is IMPORTANT!

You can size the canister to be netural with the batteries.

Bob Weis

I just checked the Dive Rite web site and they have a component parts set, all you do is supply the cannister and the light handle. We used 35w HID, bur LED might be a better choice now.

Bob Weis