How to Chop A Maglight

H20doctor

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over the years its been asked over and over again... How do you chop a Maglight ? and how do you make it water proof..? well here is how i do it and If done the right way It will make a water tight dive light head that can go down past 200 feet or more... So here we go ..

First you need a chop saw, or what ever you have in the shed.. i use a chop saw with a metal cutting disk
Then you need to decide what mag to chop a D size or a C size.? i use C mags because they have more room in the Head for optics
so grab you mag and chop it.. in this fist photo is where i chop mine
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Nice , now we are ready for the next step
Now we are going to fit the Newly chopped handle into the mag head... but before we do that we are going to need to prep it

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I find the best way to do this is with a dremel , i use the small sanding Barrell .. Take the dremel and sand off all the powder coating, if you mag is black sand off all the black powder coating, we want to see Raw aluminum
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we are also going to do the same to the inside of the mag head...
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The next step is to fit the Handle into the maghead , and then get some Black electrical tape, this tape is going to be your guide on where to sand with your dremel... this will give you a nice taper line on where to sand ....
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Now once your done sanding, it should Look like this ....

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Now the next step is to get your JB weld and mix up a good amount to apply to the mag ...

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your going to apply a bead around the handle , and then a nice full bead of JB weld on the inside of the light head... Once youve coated both parts put them together... then take your finger and smooth the bead on the inside of the mag head where the 2 parts come together..
After that I put weight ontop of the maghead and let it sit and cure for 24 Hours...

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After 24 hours ... you can now build your dive light... the other steps are to drill the end cap and instal a Cord Gland.. And install the front lens using an oring and silicone to seal it up.. i do not use a glass lens, why ? because i have found that glass has exploded on me do to pressure and heat at depths below 100 feet, I only use acrylic lenses and they have worked the best for me ... I use 100% aquarium grade silicone for the front lens, and the end cap...

Happy Modding H20doctor
 
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jspeybro

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:thumbsup:

for the gland, does the cap has enough metal to just screw in the gland?
there are glands with counter nut, but is the o-ring enough to seal it?
or is it better to thread the hole, screw in the gland, place counter nut, tighten the nut, install the cord and fill up with JB-weld or epoxy?

Johan
 

H20doctor

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For the sake of the thread.... what size Orings do you use for C and D mags?

I would ask 350xfire about that one, i only work with C mags so the oring i use for the front lens is a 1-7/8 x 2- 1/16 x 3/32
 
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H20doctor

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seattle
:thumbsup:

for the gland, does the cap has enough metal to just screw in the gland?
there are glands with counter nut, but is the o-ring enough to seal it?
or is it better to thread the hole, screw in the gland, place counter nut, tighten the nut, install the cord and fill up with JB-weld or epoxy?



Johan

I use cord glans from Mcmaster Carr the 2 types should be in the parts Sticky, but i will list them here ..
Nylon Liquid-Tight Cord Grip (NEMA 6), Straight Flex, 3/8" NPT, .16"-.31" Cord Diameter
Nylon Liquid-Tight Cord Grip (NEMA 6), Straight Standard, PG7, .11"-.26" Cord Diameter

I drill a hole in the back of the tail cap and then apply silicone to the threads... take the lock nut and put it on from the inside of the tail cap, and hand tighten, once its tight , give it another 3/4 turn with pliers... if you want to you can fill the tail cap up after this process with an epoxy, JB weld, or electronics potting compound... I dont as its not needed
 

Klem

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Last edited:

DIWdiver

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I've turned lenses in the lathe. I used hot-melt glue to put the blank onto a holder that goes in the lathe chuck. It cleans up great when you're done, but sometimes comes apart too soon, which sucks. :geekspeakon: Using a padded live center in the tailstock to put pressure on the blank helps keep it from separating from the holder :geekspeakoff:

I use polycarbonate, as it doesn't have the propensity toward stress-cracking that acrylic has. Acrylic has better light transmission characteristics, but I've seen too many parts with stress fractures to trust my hard work to it.

Yes, I could easily remove the thread in the head. Also, cutting down bodies, removing anodizing, are very easy. Cutting new threads is more challenging. Doing it really well is beyond my current skill level.
 

H20doctor

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seattle
I have a simple lathe that can't do much, I can't do threads or chucks like stated from Diwdiver... you can also router lenses on a table system... but I try to keep things easy and simple
 

350xfire

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Haven't been here in while been busy with other hobbies.....
O-rings are #124 (1.237"x.103") or 31.42mmx2.62mm have to put metric in there for pack! lol This is for tail
1.890"x.079" or 48mmx2mm for head. Need 2


I do like to thread the top of the Maglite barrel prior to gluing but not mandatory.
 
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