High CRI emitter for my headlamp, options?

Hey guys, coming back with some questions.

Broke two of my lights this hitch at work and got to repairing them recently. One of them is a Nitecore HC50. I use this headlamp for work all around my shop, close up usually, such as reading, working on equipment, threading in bolts, etc. Its actually quite robust, as it gets beat between dropping my Hard hat and tapping it on equipment when I'm working. In taking it apart the other day to fix a broken solder joint, I realized It would be easy enough to mod. It has an XM-L2 in it currently, and I was considering changing the tint to better suit close up work.

I think the most recomended choice would be Nichia 219, but that wouldn't fit onto the XM-L2's spot, would it? The LED is actually board mounted, not on a star like most regular flashlights. I was thinking a High CRI XM-L2, or looking at the XP-L, but not sure which route to go. Any tips?

I am also thinkng about XP-Ls in my other lights, I ordered a few sinkpad/XP-Ls for my EDCs, we will see how they look.

Nick

You could order a 219 on a thin star, grind it down to a very small size, leave some space to solder wires, grind down the XM-L including its solder joints on the board, glue the 219 in place and connect + and - of the LED to the board. Measure the available space in the reflector/cover first.

XP-Ls have the same footprint as 219/XP-G, so same problem.

I think I may have known that, considering the XP before the L. Doh. Well, thats an option. I'll have to get photos of this. I doubt I can de-solder the LED, is that even possible? Never tried it. Bummer that grinding may be the only option, which may kill the light.

Compared to the XM-L2, my output is going to be down to what, near 2/3s? I may consider an XM-L2 High CRI bin, but I have one in my Streamlight Protac2, I'm not a huge fan, actually.

Photos would be good, maybe someone has got a better idea. Desoldering is easy, but the other components may fall off the board too, by accident.
Depending on the space available one could drill the XM-L out and fit a grinded down star into the hole, maybe.
XM-L2 high CRI are too yellow for my taste, nothing beats a 219

Replace the XM-L with a 4000K neutral XM-L2 (75 CRI). Forget high CRI when dealing with CREE. The tint is off, especially when compared to a 92 CRI Nichia 219B. If you use a hot air soldering station, it would be a snap to remove and replace the XM-L. Doing the work with a soldering iron? Not so easy.

Never heard of a hot air soldering station, actually. We may have one in the Electronics department workshop. The only things I use over there is the variable power supply and the Adjustable weller soldering station. I'll see if we have one as we do a lot of smt stuff.

Ok, I'll get photos as soon as I can. The HC50 is actually simple to take apart now that I know how. My phone is broken unfortunately so I need to procure a camera. will do in a bout 6 hours and follow up.

In an unrelated project, is there an led that will mount in place of an XR-E? I have a large number of worklights that got overexposed to the sun and fried their 6 xr-e lights. I could solder in new XR-Es but those are quite dated, no? I'm 90% sure its an XR-E, this is the only x-lamp led with a metal ring around the Dome, correct? I'll get pictures of this, too. These worklights are 200/unit and I must have 20 or more with overheat failed leds. 125* dessert temps will do that.

photos are here:








That should about cover it. Anyone care to further elaborate? The plastic centering ring shouldn't be an issue, it seems to all fit fine without it. I think more thermal paste may help heat transfer, it is missing from 1/3 of the front of the board.

Thanks everyone,

Cheers

I still think grinding is the way to go. A Nichia on a 1mm star should only be minimally higher than the XM-L. To prevent shorting, the traces for the LED should be cut with a cutter near the large joints on the backside and wires should be soldered to the next available solder joints. Some basic EE knowledge is needed, else the whole assembly might be damaged. The traces must be measured to prevent shorting and wrong assembly. To get the wires through to the other side, a dent on each side of the board could be grinded where "L+" and "L-" is printed on the LED side of the board. The dents have to be deep enough to leave some space between LED and outer diameter of the lens recess to get the wires through without protruding too much. The star has to be put in such a way on the board that the solder joints of the star are lengthwise on the board. Instead of grinding dents one could also just drill some small holes into the board, slightly wider than the wires. This wouldn't weaken the board so much.

It MIGHT be possible to revise the board in such a way that the available traces and solder joints can be left untouched if a Dremel is available and skills are adequately there, too.

Nick, would you mind telling us how to open the HC50? I removed the reflector and have access to the LED, but I seem to be stuck there.

Many thanks!
Wim