found a great deal but need help setting it up

Ok so i just scored a box of 5 Phillips 5761's on ebay for less than $20. there is one more if anyone wants to grab it.
Anyways what's the best battery setup in a 2d m*g for this bulb? Have an FM 6.35 socket coming so resistance will be lowered. not planning any other resistance mods.
my 18650's are samsung 25R and i'm pretty sure 2 of them would instaflash, even rested. They are still @ 4.1v unloaded after resting.
serial 3*aa>d convertors on the way as well. But, I'm afraid even 6*eneloop would instaflash. Can they even handle the 5+amp draw? Would it be obscene to run it on 5 with a dummy for a minute, and then add the 6th?
Any suggestions?

On that note, is it really ok to stack 2x 3*aa>d series adapters?

And all apologies if this is in the wrong forum...i'm new...please forgive me and please move me!

I'm not sure if those AA's would be able to handle 5 amp draw. Maybe you could try two 26650 Li-ion cells plus a dummy?

The 5761 should be able to deal with 6x eneloops. Best would be to get a soft-start and run 2x lithium ion 26650/32600.
You will also need a metal reflector, a Borosilicate lens, and a ceramic bulb holder.

Don't try to use cheap battery carriers, as they typically start to fail at 1.5 amps or so in my experience.

jabe1 said:

The 5761 should be able to deal with 6x eneloops. Best would be to get a soft-start and run 2x lithium ion 26650/32600.
You will also need a metal reflector, a Borosilicate lens, and a ceramic bulb holder.

Don't try to use cheap battery carriers, as they typically start to fail at 1.5 amps or so in my experience.

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I've got a bunch of 18650 INR lithium batteries, would love to use them. I'll see if i can search out a cheap soft start option.

Glass lenses, alum reflector and FM 6.35 socket on the way.

The titanium innovations battery carriers are ok, right? That's what i ordered. FM has no more

I am not familiar with those battery carriers, maybe email battery junction and ask how much of an amp draw they can realistically handle.
You can post a WTB for a 6AA-2D converter in the custom forum also.

delete

I never buy batteries off the flea to many dodgy dealers.

I'm pretty sure I've run a 5761 off a pair of IMR's before and it didn't flash using the stock mag switch.
The FM socket isn't much a resistance mod, mind you, I wasn't using one when I did this.

I ran a 5761 for years off 6x 11Ah Nimh D cells can it never flashed. This was using the old FM bi-pin adapter and the stock mag switch and tail spring.

If you got 5 bulbs, you might as well try it and see what happens.

Otherwise, get a JM-PHD-D1 regulator set up and call it a day.

Samsung 25R rested ~6hr and even used in another light for a few minutes....8.2v no load @ tailcap...

breadfan said:

Samsung 25R rested ~6hr and even used in another light for a few minutes....8.2v no load @ tailcap...

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Oh, you tried it ?

Yes, against my better judgement. I popped a magcharger bulb on the same batteries a few weeks ago. Lux's tests ran the MC to 8.3, and the 5761 only 7.9....foolish mistake but had to see for myself lol

So looks like my options are:

1. stick with 6 eneloop. working on a 6s/2p holder for my 3d. (NOT easy) The 3*aa series holders are getting hot on the ends. And, the bulb's not hitting near full potential on the single stack of 6.

2. NTC in the tailcap (less work than trying to build a battery holder)

3. order a pair of LiFePO4 cells for 6.6v nominal (most expensive but easiest...but will output be any better than 6 eneloop?

Hmm, well, as I mentioned, I used to run the 5761 on 6xD Cells, and that gave the me best results.
So, I would imagine the 6 eneloops would be great for the first few minutes.

I've ran it on Lifepo4 cells too. Works well. Not as bright, but still kicks, and probably more consistent over the duration of the run time . . .
this is of course assuming you get 26650 lifepo4's . 18650's would be useless. Hell, I think you'd end up with less capacity than Eneloops.

NTC's are balls. I've played with them. They are great at first, but as the battery runs down, so does your output.
They generally don't go down to zero resistance, so once the batteries have settled you don't have the same output.
They are cheap enough, worth playing with if you feel like it.

The best option honestly is the JM-PHD-D1. It might seem intimidating at first, but if you have any crafting skills you'll be happy with the end result.

It will throttle that peak that pops the bulb, then once the batteries droop a bit, you end up with full power with the advantage of the resistance mod.
It would get you the best out of the bulb, and ultimately brighter than the other options.
After wards, it can be set up for other bulbs you may want to try, with whatever battery combinations you have.

I think it would be easier than an AA adapter, that's for sure:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?388167-Ultimag-Updated-JM-PH-D1-Build

Conte said:

The best option honestly is the JM-PHD-D1. It might seem intimidating at first, but if you have any crafting skills you'll be happy with the end result.

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Can the adjustment pots be lined up with the slot in FM's 6.35 socket?

One of them, yeah. I usually line up the voltage cutoff so I can tweek it as I go.

I can set up the vbulb at the bench, so i don't need to access that, but the battery cutoff, I have to wait until, the batteries get low to set that.

Right on. Might have to pick one up on the future. Pretty sure my 6s2p AA pack is gonna work out though. Finally got the measurements perfect and just needed to cut a few spacers and add contacts. Look for it in a new thread when I'm done. Kind of a hybrid oddmod/old lumens/FM styles.

Awesome. Well, the 5761 does kick pretty good. Should be fun.