Surefire C2 Centurion, 9P Original, and G3 Nitrolon

fvshaggy

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Good afternoon CPFers,

I am new to the forum and had a few questions on some lights that I have. I use to work at Surefire a few years ago and have these lights that I lent to my mother in law after she went through a divorce. It's been a few years and I wanted them back since I knew they were quality lights. Now I want to upgrade them and had a few questions. It seems like the Malkoff LED replacement light is the way to go to upgrade. The cost is not that bad and I am fairly certain that the p60 light bulb replacement would be the one I needed. Is the Malkoff the best replacement there is? Is there something else that I should consider as well? I also have a question about the batteries for the lights. From what I have read so far the standard 123a are the way to go in terms of overall performance but I wanted to do a rechargeable version of the batteries to save money overall. From my readings if I wanted to do put a 18650 battery in my c2 I would need to bore it out. How would I do that if I don't have tools available, or what would I need to aquire to do it? Is there a battery equivalent that would be available for my 9p and g3 as well? Sorry for all the questions and mods please feel free to move if this is in the wrong area.

Let me know what else I should know about doing upgrades to these lights.
 

scout24

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Hi and welcome. There are 16650 cells, and 17670 cells that will work in your C2 with LED dropins. Malkoffs are fantastic quality with a well deserved reputation. Tha 9P and G3 will fit a pair of 17500 cells, or one of the above mentioned 16650 or 17670's with a 123 sized dummy cell spacer. G3 should only be used with a "L" designated Malkoff, or multiple "L"'s (M61L, M61LL, etc.) not a full power dropin. That will get you started, you'll get plenty of other answers. Some of the best lights made, keep them and use them!
 

campingnut

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I will also second the Malkoff drop-ins...there are many options, so which Malkoff will depend on how you will be using the light. I personally have a M61WL - the W is for a nice warm tint and the L is for the low (125 lumens) which is enough light for most tasks with a very long runtime. I use 16650 keepower cells in this light.
 

fvshaggy

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Mar 6, 2016
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Palm Desert, Ca
Hi and welcome. There are 16650 cells, and 17670 cells that will work in your C2 with LED dropins. Malkoffs are fantastic quality with a well deserved reputation. Tha 9P and G3 will fit a pair of 17500 cells, or one of the above mentioned 16650 or 17670's with a 123 sized dummy cell spacer. G3 should only be used with a "L" designated Malkoff, or multiple "L"'s (M61L, M61LL, etc.) not a full power dropin. That will get you started, you'll get plenty of other answers. Some of the best lights made, keep them and use them!

Thanks for the information so far. Should I do the bore out of the the c2 or should I keep it close to stock? There are so many options. What about batteries and chargers? Is there a preferred brand?

Thanks.
 

fvshaggy

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Mar 6, 2016
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I will also second the Malkoff drop-ins...there are many options, so which Malkoff will depend on how you will be using the light. I personally have a M61WL - the W is for a nice warm tint and the L is for the low (125 lumens) which is enough light for most tasks with a very long runtime. I use 16650 keepower cells in this light.

If I go this type of route would I need to buy a clicker type tailcap? It seems like a lot of people change out the tailcap for personal preference but I am not sure if it makes that much of a difference.

Thanks for the help thus far.
 

Woods Walker

The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
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I had great luck with Keeppower 16650. Fits my G2Z, C2, G2 and 6P without the need for modifications. The M61WL appears to be the local favorite these days and for good reason. The M61(L) run nicely on lithium ion.
 

novice

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Welcome, fvshaggy! You are starting out with some great lights. Regarding rechargeable cells, I would personally recommend an AW brand 17670 cell (3.7 volts) in the C2, since it will give you greater storage capacity than the 16650 (and no boring needed). No disrespect intended towards Woods_Walker, who has logged far more hours in the great outdoors, in the dark, than I ever will. For the 9P and G3, in addition to being the right length for 2x17500 rechargeable Li-ion cells (a cumulative total of 7.4 volts, and I would again recommend AW brand cells), these two lights also just happen to be the right length for 2xAA cells, either lithium, alkaline in difficult economic circumstances, or rechargeable NiMH AA cells. So many options. Personally, I would use a lower power led module (or an incan bulb) in the G3 (since the all-plastic light does not wick heat away from the led very efficiently), and something like the aforementioned Malkoff M61WL in the 9P. You have a lot to think about and research. If you decide to head into rechargeable Li-ions, please do as much research as you can stand here in CPF, and don't scrimp on either the cells, or the charger. That's where the e-vapers who are burning their faces, blowing their teeth out, and setting their pants on fire are going wrong (all documented, by the way). It's important to have respect for these things. I myself greatly prefer this generation of lights, rather than the current SF product lineup.
 
Last edited:

RWT1405

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Welcome to CPF!

Many great suggestions thus far!

I like the M61L suggestions for the C2 and 9P, but for the G3 might I suggest an M61LL version, as it's use on 2 AA batts (along with it's use on CR123's normally), in an emergency scenario would be excellent!

As to the tailcap, there is no need to change it, unless you prefer a clickie!
 

MX421

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I'll add to the 16650 route, thats what i use in my flashlights as i am not a bore fan. At least not yet, I have a lot of 18650s and have considered it for awhile. Then again, now i have quite a few 16650s too :).

Since you seem to keep coming back to the boring, Grizzman posted some reading material in a Elzetta thread on the boring: http://flashlightguide.com/2014/09/oveready-custom-bored-elzetta-bodies/ Its an Elzetta thread, but the article is relevant to Surefire flashlights as well.
You'll see that performance-wise, there is an argument that high end capacity 18650 cells. Its mentioned in the thread, but Overready has boring services. There are others as well.

As for clicky, I prefer a clicky, but the stock tailcap can be used similar to a momentary mode, so i don't mind that so much.

Welcome to the Forum and Enjoy your lights!
 
Last edited:

fvshaggy

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Mar 6, 2016
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Palm Desert, Ca
I had great luck with Keeppower 16650. Fits my G2Z, C2, G2 and 6P without the need for modifications. The M61WL appears to be the local favorite these days and for good reason. The M61(L) run nicely on lithium ion.

Thanks for the information I will have to take a look into those.
 

fvshaggy

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Joined
Mar 6, 2016
Messages
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Location
Palm Desert, Ca
Welcome, fvshaggy! You are starting out with some great lights. Regarding rechargeable cells, I would personally recommend an AW brand 17670 cell (3.7 volts) in the C2, since it will give you greater storage capacity than the 16650 (and no boring needed). No disrespect intended towards Woods_Walker, who has logged far more hours in the great outdoors, in the dark, than I ever will. For the 9P and G3, in addition to being the right length for 2x17500 rechargeable Li-ion cells (a cumulative total of 7.4 volts, and I would again recommend AW brand cells), these two lights also just happen to be the right length for 2xAA cells, either lithium, alkaline in difficult economic circumstances, or rechargeable NiMH AA cells. So many options. Personally, I would use a lower power led module (or an incan bulb) in the G3 (since the all-plastic light does not wick heat away from the led very efficiently), and something like the aforementioned Malkoff M61WL in the 9P. You have a lot to think about and research. If you decide to head into rechargeable Li-ions, please do as much research as you can stand here in CPF, and don't scrimp on either the cells, or the charger. That's where the e-vapers who are burning their faces, blowing their teeth out, and setting their pants on fire are going wrong (all documented, by the way). It's important to have respect for these things. I myself greatly prefer this generation of lights, rather than the current SF product lineup.

Thanks for the tips thus far. This is really informative. I know there are bunch of vendors out there that are ready to take my money but is there one that is consistantly great. (PM's can be sent regarding this of course). I was wondering about the g3 and a higher intensity bulb possibly not being right for it.
 

novice

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I know there are bunch of vendors out there that are ready to take my money but is there one that is consistently great? (PM's can be sent regarding this of course).

I used to have a favorite vendor, but they went out of business last year. I'm not buying much these days, and I usually just do searches for individual products, and price compare. Others may feel differently, and hopefully they will share their opinions in PM's.

I was wondering about the g3 and a higher intensity bulb possibly not being right for it.

While you need to concern yourself with led modules overheating in certain Sf nitrolon lights, it is not usually a concern with bulbs in Surefire hosts, unless you are overdriving a bi-pin bulb to breathtaking levels in a custom setup, in a SF nitrolon light. This will not be a concern with incandescent lamp assemblies that are made for the Surefire. Since the original SF lamp assemblies can be more and more difficult to find online, a good resource is a company called Lumens Factory. They make aftermarket lamp assemblies specifically for SF, and they make a wider variety, including lamps made specifically for rechargeable battery combinations.
 

fvshaggy

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would the nitecore d2 be a good charger to use for the 17670? Is there a better charger. I am looking mostly on amazon due to having a few gift cards.

Thanks again
 

Woods Walker

The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
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would the nitecore d2 be a good charger to use for the 17670? Is there a better charger. I am looking mostly on amazon due to having a few gift cards.

Thanks again

I don't have that one but do use a nitecore UM10 often. Can't see any reason why the D1 wouldn't work however my advice is to pay attention to the battery. Avoid ebay scams artists (not all sellers on ebay are scams, a small percentage but dang that percentage is evil) and fake BS dangerous batteries. Get a good name and buy from trusted sellers.
 

xdayv

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Philippines
+1 on the D2/D4 from Nitecore. It has a display to guide you on the status of the charge. Also check out Xtar XP4c.
 

lightfooted

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Joined
May 6, 2010
Messages
1,017
Good afternoon CPFers,

I am new to the forum and had a few questions on some lights that I have. I use to work at Surefire a few years ago and have these lights that I lent to my mother in law after she went through a divorce. It's been a few years and I wanted them back since I knew they were quality lights. Now I want to upgrade them and had a few questions. It seems like the Malkoff LED replacement light is the way to go to upgrade. The cost is not that bad and I am fairly certain that the p60 light bulb replacement would be the one I needed. Is the Malkoff the best replacement there is? Is there something else that I should consider as well? I also have a question about the batteries for the lights. From what I have read so far the standard 123a are the way to go in terms of overall performance but I wanted to do a rechargeable version of the batteries to save money overall. From my readings if I wanted to do put a 18650 battery in my c2 I would need to bore it out. How would I do that if I don't have tools available, or what would I need to aquire to do it? Is there a battery equivalent that would be available for my 9p and g3 as well? Sorry for all the questions and mods please feel free to move if this is in the wrong area.

Let me know what else I should know about doing upgrades to these lights.

Hey welcome to the forums!

Personally own four Surefire lights myself and while I understand everybody's recommendation of Malkoff drop-ins...I have two Solarforce modules that have lasted the past 5 years with no hiccups at all. There are also the Sportac P60s from Eagle Tac. I've been thinking about picking up one of the dual mode versions as it might be a perfect fit for a work light.

I say don't bore them out. It will likely increase their value as collectibles in the future but it just really isn't needed with the latest crop of 16650s and 17670s. It would be different if you already had a pile of 18650s around not doing anything, but if you're buying the batteries new...might as well make it easy. Plus it seems you would have to wait a while to get it done through Overready.

I tried a few different switches from Solarforce and while I love the L2-S10 on my old round body 6P, I don't feel it appropriate for my C2 nor the newest 6P I bought recently. The latter two have excellent knurling and I'm hard pressed to give it up.

Have fun modding your lights.
 

fvshaggy

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Mar 6, 2016
Messages
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Palm Desert, Ca
Thanks all this has been super informative so far. I definitely don't trust a battery I get off Ebay so I will stick around to the trusted stores. Still looking for store recommendations and anything with a coupon/discount is always appreciated.
 

bykfixer

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The NiteCore D2/D4 chargers will also safely charge LifePo4 (lithium phosphate) batteries if you ever end up with those or "C" sized rechargeables. Great for charging cells without overcharge protectors (called unprotected).

Now regarding the nitrolon lights, you can use a Malkoff "L" level drop in or similar output. Because the nitrolon does not radiate as well as metal, excess heat can become 'stuck' in the cavity around the 'bulb' and therefore damage said 'bulb' (in this case LED). It turns out it's ok to use Malkoff L levels in nitrolon lights.

If your typical use is generally gentler than the typical weapon light has to deal with a Malkoff isn't necessary. The emitter is cemented in place and surrounded with solid brass for a rock solid item.
The mentioned SolarForce stuff is made similar to the incan assembly that were done by SureFire way back when.

Many of us prefer Malkoff stuff for the fact it's just built to withstand just about anything one can throw at it, and it's stuff made by a stand up guy who stands behind his work second to none.
Plus you can get on his site on Monday and have your products by Friday. Stuff from China takes a while.
 

fvshaggy

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Joined
Mar 6, 2016
Messages
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Location
Palm Desert, Ca
The NiteCore D2/D4 chargers will also safely charge LifePo4 (lithium phosphate) batteries if you ever end up with those or "C" sized rechargeables. Great for charging cells without overcharge protectors (called unprotected).

Now regarding the nitrolon lights, you can use a Malkoff "L" level drop in or similar output. Because the nitrolon does not radiate as well as metal, excess heat can become 'stuck' in the cavity around the 'bulb' and therefore damage said 'bulb' (in this case LED). It turns out it's ok to use Malkoff L levels in nitrolon lights.

If your typical use is generally gentler than the typical weapon light has to deal with a Malkoff isn't necessary. The emitter is cemented in place and surrounded with solid brass for a rock solid item.
The mentioned SolarForce stuff is made similar to the incan assembly that were done by SureFire way back when.

Many of us prefer Malkoff stuff for the fact it's just built to withstand just about anything one can throw at it, and it's stuff made by a stand up guy who stands behind his work second to none.
Plus you can get on his site on Monday and have your products by Friday. Stuff from China takes a while.

Nicely put. I was am leaning towards the Malkoff items and wanted to see if I could buy everything together. So it seems like the consensus is Malkoff..with AW batteries with either d2/d4 or xtar products for a great setup?

Thanks for the input!
 
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