Minimoog
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2005
- Messages
- 771
Look at this old clunker listed on eBay https://www.dropbox.com/s/t5a48rn3zpzil3g/$_57-1.JPG?dl=0
Looks rough doesn't it? Well it was - and I should know because I bought it! Its late 20's, made of nickeled brass and is the 3 cell version of this light which i wrote about previously http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...le-Electric-Searchlight-evaluation&highlight= but whereas that light was new, this one certainly was not! Here is a list of what was wrong - is the a CPF record?
Tail spring corroded to completely nothing
Tail spring support corroded to texture of icing
Switch broken inside (hanging off)
Front glass replaced with Perspex (scratched)
Bulb holder bent inside
All contacts not working
Reflector dull
Tube has corrosion inside, perforated right through here and there
All brightwork corroded and mangy
But, on the plus side it was mostly there and the deep reflector was good under the tarnish - so lets get repairing!
First up I cleaned the whole body with a brass rotary wire brush - the corrosion flew off in clouds of green dust (had to do it outside). Inside likewise - and more clouds of green. As the body was perforated I wrapped the damaged areas in tape and using JB Weld, painted inside over the damaged areas and so when set I removed the tape and you can hardly see where the hole was. Now, using Brasso wadding I cleaned up all surfaces, but left them smooth but 'pitted' brass and bits of old finish - looks like I wanted - like an old brass watering can. I then ground off the rivets holding the switch on to access the insulated part that had come off inside the light - the aluminium rivet holding it to the tube had rotted through. Cleaning everything and coating with De-Oxit I was pleased to see all parts were copper or brass so cleaned up well. The bulb holder was very bent from over-tightening the bulb - but careful straightening yielded results. Actually, the whole holder was soldered into the top of the light so by removing the solder and resetting the holder I was able to perfectly centre the bulb - it was canted to one side due to the fibre insulator disk holding the brass warping a bit over time.
The reflector cleaned up well with some careful use of Brasso wadding and a microfiber cloth. I found that a coated 82mm photographic filter yielded a 78mm glass - which was a perfect fit.
For the tail spring, I used a Mag spring with wire bypass. Measuring total resistance for the light I got under 1 Ohm - so pretty good - better than the complete open circuit that it was!
But I want it to be old and powerful - no feeble beams here! Using a screw fit 6V, 10W halogen bulb really upped the output! I have ordered 6 x 1/2 D NiMh batteries to power the bulb - they are on their way now. I was considering a 12V setup, but without making an AA pack I can't do it - and there are no 12AA to 3D holders on the market anymore.
More to follow as it happens and some photos of course.
Looks rough doesn't it? Well it was - and I should know because I bought it! Its late 20's, made of nickeled brass and is the 3 cell version of this light which i wrote about previously http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...le-Electric-Searchlight-evaluation&highlight= but whereas that light was new, this one certainly was not! Here is a list of what was wrong - is the a CPF record?
Tail spring corroded to completely nothing
Tail spring support corroded to texture of icing
Switch broken inside (hanging off)
Front glass replaced with Perspex (scratched)
Bulb holder bent inside
All contacts not working
Reflector dull
Tube has corrosion inside, perforated right through here and there
All brightwork corroded and mangy
But, on the plus side it was mostly there and the deep reflector was good under the tarnish - so lets get repairing!
First up I cleaned the whole body with a brass rotary wire brush - the corrosion flew off in clouds of green dust (had to do it outside). Inside likewise - and more clouds of green. As the body was perforated I wrapped the damaged areas in tape and using JB Weld, painted inside over the damaged areas and so when set I removed the tape and you can hardly see where the hole was. Now, using Brasso wadding I cleaned up all surfaces, but left them smooth but 'pitted' brass and bits of old finish - looks like I wanted - like an old brass watering can. I then ground off the rivets holding the switch on to access the insulated part that had come off inside the light - the aluminium rivet holding it to the tube had rotted through. Cleaning everything and coating with De-Oxit I was pleased to see all parts were copper or brass so cleaned up well. The bulb holder was very bent from over-tightening the bulb - but careful straightening yielded results. Actually, the whole holder was soldered into the top of the light so by removing the solder and resetting the holder I was able to perfectly centre the bulb - it was canted to one side due to the fibre insulator disk holding the brass warping a bit over time.
The reflector cleaned up well with some careful use of Brasso wadding and a microfiber cloth. I found that a coated 82mm photographic filter yielded a 78mm glass - which was a perfect fit.
For the tail spring, I used a Mag spring with wire bypass. Measuring total resistance for the light I got under 1 Ohm - so pretty good - better than the complete open circuit that it was!
But I want it to be old and powerful - no feeble beams here! Using a screw fit 6V, 10W halogen bulb really upped the output! I have ordered 6 x 1/2 D NiMh batteries to power the bulb - they are on their way now. I was considering a 12V setup, but without making an AA pack I can't do it - and there are no 12AA to 3D holders on the market anymore.
More to follow as it happens and some photos of course.
