As far as soldering stations go, I use two of these...
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7307
Having two makes rebiasing a circuit a lot easier. Plus I can have one with a narrow tip and one with a wide tip available at all times. They're cheap enough and the support from these guys has been great. What's wild is that replacement wands are only like $12 and they come with a tip.
Now back to the mod. Nice pics by the way.
Regarding the resistors. Yes, you do have to run another resistor in parallel with the current sense resistor (.47 ohm). What I've done in the past is to also run another .1 ohm resistor on the inductor sense resistor. I get like 800mA this way and haven't had any problems.
If you need a few resistors, PM me. I just restocked.
OK, desolder the emitter from the pads. Once the emitter is free remove it. Now, heat the center of the KL3. If you look down into the bottom of it, you'll see some holes that you can use to grab the circuit housing and contact post. I use needle nose pliers for this. Again, once you get it hot enough, the epoxy will give way. Once it starts to turn, watch the wires up top. You really don't want to twist them too much. As you unscrew the post the wires will start to spin. When they stop spinning, they're starting to twist. At this point, use some small needle nose or tweezers to coax the wires into the hole. Once you have the wires in the hole and they are no longer getting hung up on the upper portion of the head, you can unscrew the post all the way.
With the post removed, use a small jeweler's file (or similar tool) to gently and carefully scrape the protective coating from the solder joints of the resistors you are going to parallel. All Surefire circuits have the protective coating and you CANNOT solder through it.
You're there. Find the .47 ohm resistor and do your magic. I'd add one to the inductor sense too. I'm no electronics engineer, but I think this is what CM told me. BTW, CM's the man when it comes to these Surefire circuits.
I usually stop and 1 resistor a piece. It gives me about 800mA. Nice, bright, not much heat, and good runtime.
When you go to put the post back together, it get a little tricky. You want to kind of loop the wires in a manner so that you'll be able to "fish" them through the hole when the post is almost all the way seated. This way, you have no worries about twisting something off. Just watch not to get the wires wrapped around the toroid. You don't want to tear that off.
When you get all of the electronics back together again, you could put the emitter back with just some thermal compound on AA it to the head. Be warned though. If you use AA and don't center the LED in the reflector properly, you'll be kicking yourself. Just using thermal epoxy is a more forgiving method. Just make sure that the lux is making good contact with the head to get the heat out.
Now the reflector. If I remember correctly, I turned a total of 70/1000's off of the outside diameter. That's 35 notches on lathe crank. Remember, divide by two when reducing diameter. Believe it or not, there have been small variances in reflectors/KL3's, or maybe it's just me.
In any case, you may just want to test fit yours as you go. I also take about 50/1000's off of the face to give a nice flat surface to sit against the lens. After you get the reflector fitted, find an o-ring that just fits around the reflector, but sits a little higher than the rim of the reflector. Now when you tighten down the lens with the ring, the lens will come into contact with the o-ring and compress it a bit until the reflector touches the lens. It seems to me that this should be pretty water tight. Unless you plan on going back to an optic, I'd use some sealant on the ring.
Voila, BAD A$$ light.
