Arc flashlight LSH-P, not working

I have a never carried LSH-P, like new, but not working. Where can I get it fixed? Thank you very much in advance.

Greetings waion. I see we both joined the CPF the same month and year. It's hard to believe 17 years have passed. I'm still using my ARC LSL-S around the property when I don't need a lot of throw or massive lumens. Is your LSH-P the two cell extension body or the higher output/better CRI? My light is 17 years old and I forgot the details about the different models. There were some improvements or modifications available and I remember the ARC was a huge hit when introduced.

Hopefully you will get some repair info as I may need the same help some day. Good luck, waion.

You could try contacting DatiLED. He is good with these lights and may even be able to put in an updated light engine for you. He has done some nice builds.

Hi jayflash. I was 23 when I first joined CPF...time flies.

My LSH-P is using 1 CR123A and clicky switch. It's one of my collection and I never carried it. Sad to find out it's no longer working.

jayflash said:

Greetings waion. I see we both joined the CPF the same month and year. It's hard to believe 17 years have passed. I'm still using my ARC LSL-S around the property when I don't need a lot of throw or massive lumens. Is your LSH-P the two cell extension body or the higher output/better CRI? My light is 17 years old and I forgot the details about the different models. There were some improvements or modifications available and I remember the ARC was a huge hit when introduced.

Hopefully you will get some repair info as I may need the same help some day. Good luck, waion.

Click to expand...

Hi, Waion.

If it is like new and never carried, the driver should be fine. I'm wondering if it may just be a simple mechanical issue such as a lack of contact somewhere. Does it have a Kroll switch that might be malfunctioning? Do you have a multimeter? If so, start by checking parts of the light for continuity, and also do an amperage test with the tailcap/or kroll removed, and touch one lead to battery negative, and the other lead to the threads inside where the tailcap would be.

Also try disassembling the light, and put it back together to see if that improves any contact areas.

If the light works, and you have a faulty kroll, I'll send you one free.

Try cleaning contacts with Deoxit.

Good suggestions. Those Krolls can be touchy & intermittent. There's a light-duty spring used as a contact and the several contact points need occasional disassembly and cleaning. Bimmerboy's suggestion is good. If you lack a meter, for a test, you can bypass the switch by unscrewing it and using a wire or screwdriver to connect the bottom of the battery to the side of the body.