Dissasmbling arc Ls-H to apply glow paint

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glenthemole

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I recently bought a arc ls-h second. I've purchased some glow paint which i would like to apply on the back side of the optic, but I'm having some trouble removing the retaining ring holding in the whole assembly into the head (the ring with the two small notches). I've tried using a small piece of aluminium cut to size, but can't seem to get enough force to turn it without the aluminium piece slipping.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Is the ring held in by epoxy or something? Once I remove the ring, is there anything else difficult to take out?

Also, has anyone tried putting glow paint inside their LS-H and if so, what is it like?

Thanks, Glen
 

Rothrandir

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i can't comment on the removal of the ring, but i'd suggest that you not paint glow powder directly onto the optic. doing so will mess with it's optical properties, and render it practicaly useless.

instead, you should paint the glowpowder onto the inner surface of the light, around the optic, but not touching it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

glenthemole

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Yes, I see the logic in that. The optic will work partly on total internal reflection, and if the optical density of the medium outside the optic is changed the critical angle for TIR will change too.

On a different matter, if I drill out the ring, could I buy a replacement from arc? I'd have to get it shipped over to the UK tho.
 

glenthemole

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[ QUOTE ]
spoggles said:
heat the ring first with a soldering iron

[/ QUOTE ]

OK, I'll try this. Any idea how long for, as I really dont want to overheat the thing and break something. I really can't afford a replacement ls-h , as I'm only a student. I have a 30Watt soldering iron and a smaller one which I think is a 15Watt one. I'd guess you would heat up the whole ring rather than leaving the iron in one place...

Thanks for all the advice so far

[edit] Also, when (if) I dissasmble the head and apply the glowpaint, will I have to allign the optics or anything or can I just assemble it normally?
 

ZuluWhiskeyFox

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Some type of shop that is properly equipped to change watch batteries might help you out. They should have an adjustable tool that has hardened steel pins. The distance between these pins is what is adjustable. Why would they have such a tool you ask? Well many watches have screw on backs. If you look closely at the watches that have screw off backs you should see some familiar little notches. hmmm

cheers,
zwf
 

LitFuse

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I've tried heating, but it never worked for me at all. Can anyone who has actually done this with success confirm that heat aids in disassembly? It works like a charm on a Z57 tailcap, but didn't do anything for me on an Arc LS. And it wasn't because I didn't get it hot enough either, it was smoking when I was done. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

The only thing I've found that works is brute force and a pair of filed down needlenose pliers, and even then you can be in for quite an ordeal. You would think that once you got the ring "cracked loose" you would be home free, but this is often not the case as the loctite will remain wedged in the threads all the way out. "Working" the ring back and forth will sometimes help, but not always.


Peter
 

Mic

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I'm trying this my self /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
just to get reed of a small bubble under the lens ( & maybe a mod ) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
with a pair of filed down needle-nose pliers & a small strap bottle opener like the one you find in the kitchen , /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Don't like the idea of Heat
I have got the ring cracked loose (talk about brute force) but i still can't get it out /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif it needs a bit of lubrication /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/help.gif but not too much /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 

coachbigdog

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I went the opposite direction figuring that the loctite was designed for heat, and put mine in the freezer.The loctite cracked loose on the 1st try.
 

glenthemole

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O well, ive tried putting it in the freezer, still cant get it to budge, i think its mainy because i dont have a secure way of holding the light without it slipping.

I think I'm just going to order another retainer ring, wait till it comes, then drill out the current one i cant get out.
 

jpeg

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OK, while we're on the subject... Once you get the ring off... (I eventually drilled through mine with a dremel after trying most of the above methods.) When you swap out the LED, how do you know which side is positive and which is negative? The LED looks the same upside down as it does right side up... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

Roth: Can you elaborate on where you'd recommend glow powder placement? Pix perhaps??? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

Rothrandir

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i'm not familiar with the layout of the rev2 arcs, but the first ones had a white delrin piece that went behind and around the optic, and it served 2 purposes (well, one purpose i guess, but it had a nice side effect /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif ).

it held the optic in place and centered, and it also helped redirect some light back into the optic.
painting this would be ideal, since it's white, and close to and around the optic.

if the rev2's don't have that, then painting any surface around the optic would still work great.
i've got a minimag mod with the interior of the head painted, and the glow powder is so bright that if your eyes are adapted, you can use it to see for several feet.
 

jpeg

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Thanks Roth. I was planning to swap out the optics with a McFlood, do you (or does anyone) have any recommendations for GP placement using a reflector?
Thx /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

glenthemole

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[ QUOTE ]
bhds said:
Heat,brute force,vaseline. In that order. Have done 5 so far and have not had to drill out a ring yet. Ooops. I might have jinxed myself /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ohgeez.gif

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=520470&page=2&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

[/ QUOTE ]

How much do you heat it? Do you use a soldering iron? Also, what do you use to prevent the flashlight from slipping round? I've heard talk of rubber gripper things but I don't have any.
 

jpeg

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I used Duct tape. You have to use WD-40 to remove the sticky stuff later, but it is a KILLER grip!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

Rothrandir

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not really sure where you'd put glow paint on the reflector...

the nice thing about the optic, is that when you put it behind the optic, you can see it, and it creates a really cool effect, but obviously you can't do that with a reflector /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

the mcflood also hugs the emitter dome so close, that you wouldn't be able to put any around the bottom either...

i guess i can't really think of a good place to put it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 

Ty_Bower

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I just cracked open my LSH-S. I tried the freezer trick. I've heard of people doing that to get the heatsink off a video card's chip when it's been epoxied on. I wrapped it in saran wrap before I stuck it in the freezer to try to cut down on the condensation. I left it in there a good two or three hours.

After I took it out, I hoped the heat from my hand would expand the outer aluminum faster than the retaining ring. I used needle nosed pliers in the ring holes, and held the outside of the light with my hand. I used one of those rubber jar gripper things to get a better grip.

I think it cracked loose on the first try, but there was enough loctite jammed in the threads that it was a real b**** to get out. I had to work it back and forth quite a few times before the stuff finally broke up. Even the circuit board didn't want to just drop right out easily.

OK, cool. I've got it out. Now what do I do? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

bhds

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[ QUOTE ]
glenthemole said:

How much do you heat it? Do you use a soldering iron? Also, what do you use to prevent the flashlight from slipping round? I've heard talk of rubber gripper things but I don't have any.

[/ QUOTE ]

I use a hot soldering iron and hold it to the ring for 5-10 seconds. Be warned that it doesnt work like magic. I mainly use the heat for.. well, just because /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif. I then take my snap ring pliers and try to work the ring loose. some of the rings will loosen up relatively easy. Some will be a real b----. I rubbed a raw bleeding blister into my palm on one especially hard one.
The only way I know of to hold the light is to use your hands. One of those rubber gripper pads would probably help quite a bit. You can probably find them at any grocery store. They are used for opening food jar tops.
If I can get it loose a quarter turn or so I will tighten it back down and put a couple small dabs of vaseline on the threads above the ring. If the ring is still warm the vaseline should melt into the threads and ring. Its just a matter of perseverence and elbow grease from there. As litfuse said there will be pieces of the loctite embedded in the threads. You'll get maybe a half turn and think everything is going great and then run into a piece. The important thing is that you must have a tool that fits snugly and will not slip out of the holes in the ring once you start applying all that torque.
 
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