I have the least expensive Nikon Coolpix digicam, all in this series have the same close-up focus capability. You can get in very close...but larger lenses usually give sharper images. All lenses that are not a dedicated macro only lens, will be a compromise in quality of image. Best macro only lens for digicams are naturally, the high priced lens for the high-end professional digital SLR's. Slightly lower in quality/sharpness of image would be the less expensive digital SLR's like the Canon EOS digital Rebel or Nikon D-70. Both will cost you more than $1,000, but you will get superb results. Any of the other digicams sacrifice quality for utility, and lower cost considerations.
I do not recommend any auto focus macro lens capable digicam. My Nikon is a PITA to use for quality close-up work. Manual focus and exposure control, allow you to get better pictures. A problem with lower quality macro lenses is that they are not sharp at the corners of the image frame. Using macro lens will also limit your depth of field. A true digital SLR with dedicated macro only lens, will allow you to use the highest aperture setting for the lens (if you have enough light to take a proper exposure) and gain some depth of field. If you want to have the entire body of a flashlight in focus, sometimes a zoom lens at extended to maximum zoom, will focus close enough to get a large enough image of the flashlight in the frame. With manual control over focus and exposure, use a magnifying glass to enlarge the puny LCD screen, to help you get best focus. Photographic review sites will typically post a resolution chart to show how sharp an image(high resolution) an lens can capture, as well as of axis/corner aberrations. They don't often post resolution chart shots for the macro function of less expensive digicams. The link to Steve's digicams is good, but check these picks :
http://www.imaging-resource.com/WB/WB.HTM?view=dp_macro
Word to the wise, notice the specs on just how close these cameras focus, some will not get in all that close, so you might not get the magnified image you want. Also, just because the camera can focus to a certain number if inches in front of the camera, doesn't necessarily tell you how much magnification will show up in the image. A dedicated SLR macro lens may be able to have 20x magnification, while the lens itself at maximum close-up focus, maybe 12 inches away from the subject. An inexpensive macro capability digicam may focus to 2inches in front of the lens, but the image it captures may be of lesser magnification and more shallow depth of field!
Always
use a tripod!, and always use self-timer or remote shutter release (if you must take a handheld shot, then try a model with optical image stabilization feature). A tripod will keep the camera steady and eliminate any camera shake induced blurring, same with using self-timer or remote, your finger pressure on the shutter release will induce some minute amount of camera vibration which will keep you from getting a super sharp image. Use as
uniform/low contrast lighting as possible. Digicams have less exposure latitude (dynamic range...except for multi $$$$ pro-digicams) than film based photography. In other words the darkest areas in your image and brightest area in the image are limited to a certain range that the digicam sensor can render detail with. Flat, non-contrasty light, as bright as possible, will allow you to photograph a black flashlight, and have all the minute details of the design show up in your picture.
I had a royal, royal PITA time taking pictures and lighting of the black M*glite parts for my upcoming thread on cleaning M*g electrical contacts.
Use of an image editing program is highly recommended to correct for exposure limitations/errors. Photoshop Elements has many of the capabilities you need to enhance images taken with your digicam; as the professional level full Photoshop program I used extensively, to try to get sharper and better images from the inadequate Nikon Coolpix 775 I have.