Magmods - driver retainage

Like more than a few around here, I'm putzing around with a 3x LuxIII 2D magmod. I'm curious how best to retain the driver.

Since I'm using a fatman and a tri-sink, I'd rather not adhere the driver to the heatsink directly. I'd also prefer that it not be floating around in the pedestal region, possibly coming into contact with the housing and shorting at the most inconvenient time.

I don't really see a need to hack off the pedestal (I can find some clever way to solder the wires with the switch pulled out and thread it back into place), so might I use the slot for the bulb carriage depth control?



Thanks for any suggestions.

I don't know about the FatMan, but I made a Hotlips-style sink for the VIP driver in a 3C Mag. The sink had a shallow (.060"??) counterbore that the driver board set into. the bottom of the board was flush with the back of the sink. I put two #2-56 tapped holes near the edge, 180-deg apart, for the retaining screws and flat washers. It worked quite well.

You might try something similar with a sink-like cylinder (with no outer lip) that'll slip farther down into the tube. You'd probably need to remove the pedestal for this approach, though, and use a tiny bit of adhesive or set screw or the like to keep it from shifting.

John

I've got a heatsink for the emitters already - the so-called "Perfect Tri-Sink."

I builr\t one 5 minutes ago. i just covered the back of the fat man in glue/epoxy and shoved it down the tube epoxy side out. thats it doing runtime test as we speak.

using 2 X 10,00 Mah Ni-Mh

as far as power goes, i took a broken bulb (remove glass) and solder the + lead to the bottom of the bulb and the - to the upper metal.

there you go, +and - leads. wire them to wherever you need.

the Emitter heatsink will keep the broken bulb in place.( as well as the bulb holder's spring (not shown in the above diagram)

Idle,

I got the tri-sink part - I was just suggesting adding separate piece for housing the driver, below the tri-sink.

I know you'll come up with something...

John

Line the inside of the metal tube below the trisink with thick paper epoxied to the metal.
Cuts down on the chances for a short, and opens up other options for mounting the Fatman.

As for me, I have a 3d with 3x TYOH, perfect trisink, direct driven on nimhs at 3-4 amps. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif
This thing is the screamer I take to work now.
I also made a b2eze sinked TWOJ direct drive 4x3 3c also pulling 3-4 amps from nimhs.

The easier bet may be to go with the 2D and 3 c cells after some modifications to fit them in.