Surefire U2-Lockout feature too tight to activate?

I noticed that I need to pretty much twist the tail cap ALMOST all the way clockwise (cw) until it cannot twist anymore before the lockout is disengaged (let me refer to this a 0 millimeter). Once I cannot turn anymore, I then have only about a 4 or 5 millimeter (mm) play counterclockwise (ccw) before the lockout 'sometimes' engages again. In other words, once I twist the tail cap about 5 mm ccw from the 0 mm positoin, sometimes the lockout feature engages; sometimes not. However, when the lockout is engaged at the 5mm position, I can normally still use the momentary on feature by pressing the switch slightly (but not all the way to click the switch on).

Note, that twist betwen 0 mm and 5mm is not too easy. It does not seem logical to me that a user needs to go that far for the lock out to disengage (e.g. allow light to click ON permanently.)

COMMENTS? DO I HAVE A DEFECTIVE LIGHT?

winger,

Although I do not have a lot of experience with lockout tailcaps (Z-48/Z-49, Z-57/Z-58/Z-59), all of them that I HAVE played with seem to do the same as yours. They MUST be screwed in all the way to activate - anything less is lockout territory. This is the way they are supposed to operate. I normally screw the tailcap in tight, or back it out one complete turn for a guaranteed lockout.

Hope this helps.

No defect, thats how it is supposed to work.

Shane

winger,

Welcome to the CandlePower Forum. ............ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink2.gif

My U2 is about the same. I also found that a little silicone
type reel lubricant makes it a little easier to turn the
tail cap. Do not over tighten.


This flashlight stuff is intoxicating ..... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/happy23.gif

[ QUOTE ]
Pwdrkeg said:
winger,

Welcome to the CandlePower Forum. ............ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink2.gif

My U2 is about the same. I also found that a little silicone
type reel lubricant makes it a little easier to turn the
tail cap. Do not over tighten.


This flashlight stuff is intoxicating ..... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/happy23.gif

[/ QUOTE ]thanks for the welcome.

Oh my. I MUST have over tightened it like 40 times last night trying to figuring this out...LOL. I put some silicon/self fusing tape on tail cap to help with the turning (all that test really roughed up my skin a bit, really) .

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?prod_id=300363&cm_mmc=1hd.com2msn-_-product_feed-_-D27X-_-300363&srccode=cii_9686437&cpncode=08-511341-2

seriously though. How can a user really define what qualifies as 'overtightening' ?

What is silicon reel lubricant and where would I find it?

I read the instructions and it directs to use silicon base only lubes on the o-rings/seals. You thing this silicon reel lub qualifies ?

Yes - when I spend over an 1 1/2 hr inspecting this light last night and fussing w/ it past midnight...signs of an addiction! So, where is the lights-anonymous section of this board?

Thanks.

The amount of "play" in the LO feature is determined by the three tabs or "ears" on the contact plate on the inside of the tailcap. If you are having to overtighten the TC in order for the switch to work, you can fix this by gently bending one or more of these tabs upward. This will allow them to make contact with the body tube sooner. Be aware that they are quite brittle though, and don't like to be bent back and forth. I ended up breaking one of mine off when I went too far and tried to bend it back.

Peter

[ QUOTE ]
LitFuse said:
The amount of "play" in the LO feature is determined by the three tabs or "ears" on the contact plate on the inside of the tailcap. If you are having to overtighten the TC in order for the switch to work, you can fix this by gently bending one or more of these tabs upward. This will allow them to make cotact with the body tube sooner. Be aware that they quite brittle though, and don't like to be bent back and forth. I ended up breaking one of mine off when I went too far and tried to bend it back.

Peter

[/ QUOTE ]thanks. I see the little buggers.

winger,

I've been using Abu Garcia Silicot Reel Oil. It can be
found at many sport stores that sell fishing equipment.
It is a premium silicon base fishing reel oil.

This flashlight stuff is intoxicating ...... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/happy23.gif

[ QUOTE ]
Pwdrkeg said:
winger,

I've been using Abu Garcia Silicot Reel Oil. It can be
found at many sport stores that sell fishing equipment.
It is a premium silicon base fishing reel oil.

This flashlight stuff is intoxicating ...... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/happy23.gif

[/ QUOTE ]Thanks, paying a visit to the local big 5 or other fishing supply store in this upcoming week!

[ QUOTE ]
LitFuse said:
The amount of "play" in the LO feature is determined by the three tabs or "ears" on the contact plate on the inside of the tailcap. If you are having to overtighten the TC in order for the switch to work, you can fix this by gently bending one or more of these tabs upward. This will allow them to make contact with the body tube sooner. Be aware that they are quite brittle though, and don't like to be bent back and forth. I ended up breaking one of mine off when I went too far and tried to bend it back.

Peter

[/ QUOTE ]thanks for the tip. I have gotten an extra 7mm or so of less tightening using your method. I may try a little more later...but for now, at least I no longer need to tighten SO much before the lockout disengages.

seriously though. How can a user really define what qualifies as 'overtightening' you should only have to tighten until the tailcap stops...anymore attempts is truely overdoing it...mine seems to be fine...

[ QUOTE ]
socom45 said:
seriously though. How can a user really define what qualifies as 'overtightening' you should only have to tighten until the tailcap stops...anymore attempts is truely overdoing it...mine seems to be fine...

[/ QUOTE ]I define it when I twist all the way, then really have to grip the light to twist even another 2-5 mm to turn the damn thing on.

Plus, testing it 30-40 times over one sitting roughs up my skin pretty bad - THAT is what I (one user) considers TOO dang tight.

It's too tight when my wifey has a VERY difficult time unlocking it.

OK, just to close the loop on this...I ordered a replacement tailcap from SF. This new cap is ALOT better than the one that came w/ my light. I no longer have to twist TIGHT to disengage the lockout; but, it the point where this occurs is still pretty much near the point where I can almost no longer turn without using some brute strength (like what I had to do on my first/orig tail cap), if you know what I mean.

winger, sorry it's taken me a while to get back to you... you "should" be able to twist your tail cap clockwise, just till it stops (no more).. slight pressing of the button should cause the "momentary postition" to turn the light on, then off when you let pressure off the tail cap. then a full "click on" with the button "should" turn the light to constant on. then a counterclockwise turn (I'd say 1/4-1/2 turn counterclockwise) should lock it out to where it will not come on even by clicking. This is the way mine is. If you still don't think yours is right, then I would send it back to surefire for them to fix it and make it right...and you said you ordered another tailcap...if you paid for it, I'd ask them to refund the money as from what you said, the old one was defective anyway. IMHO, you don't spend $270.00 for a light that doesn't function properly... In the Navy they taught us "if you think something is wrong...it probibly is." hope this helps... let me know how it goes. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[ QUOTE ]
socom45 said:
winger, sorry it's taken me a while to get back to you... you "should" be able to twist your tail cap clockwise, just till it stops (no more).. slight pressing of the button should cause the "momentary postition" to turn the light on, then off when you let pressure off the tail cap. then a full "click on" with the button "should" turn the light to constant on. then a counterclockwise turn (I'd say 1/4-1/2 turn counterclockwise) should lock it out to where it will not come on even by clicking. This is the way mine is. If you still don't think yours is right, then I would send it back to surefire for them to fix it and make it right...and you said you ordered another tailcap...if you paid for it, I'd ask them to refund the money as from what you said, the old one was defective anyway. IMHO, you don't spend $270.00 for a light that doesn't function properly... In the Navy they taught us "if you think something is wrong...it probibly is." hope this helps... let me know how it goes. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]hey bud. The orig tail cap was defective...the new one works just fine. BTW, surefire rep wanted me to send the entire light back - I insisted NOPE. So he send one out free of charge.

From two advice on from cpf members, I confirmed issue w/ orig tail cap was that the three tiny prongs on that silverish plate at the bottom of the tail cap that touches with the lights main barrel were NOT pertruding out enough.

SF s/ QA these lights better before shipping out, imo

My U2 works just fine, must be a isolated instance.