Direct Drive PWM driver

I have had a version of the Lionheart/Lioncub driver for a while and it's now time to make it available to folk that want similar capabilities for their own mods.

The driver has the same operating features (UI0/UI1) as the LH/LC driver. What makes it different is that it has a regulator on board (for the uC) and this allows the driver to operate at up to 16V (input). Of course the LED drive is DIRECT DRIVE (with PWM for dimming) - so it is intended for battery/LED combinations that work well together. If the user requires to 'tame' the drive current, then he/she needs to provide a current regulator or resistor in between the driver's LED+/LED- output and the LED(s).

Below is a picture of the driver (D2DIM). The board is 0.84" in diameter and has a positive nubbin connection on the back.



Basically it needs connection to BAT+ and BAT-. It then has 2 connections to LED+ and LED-. The driver has electronic off - i.e. it will turn off power to the LED and go to sleep (drawing ~50uA). The output stage can switch/PWM up to 3A of LED load.

Available as soon as I can put up info on my website etc etc.

george.

Outstanding George /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/goodjob.gif

Thanks for the update /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Will

nice... price?

-awr

[ QUOTE ]
andrewwynn said:
nice... price?

-awr

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes, good question /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Once I've updated my website with tech info and order info, then I'll post up a price.

george.

Is this the doowah I've been waiting for to use in my Minitrois? Cause if it is... just bring one along to the CPF lunch this thursday for me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif That is if you're coming

Mmmm, I can now make my Tri-lux mag a long runtime light...

1) Does it need to be potted?
2) Is the PWM freq visable?
3) 3amps through it max, what about 3.2amps? (just wondering)

Thanks!

[ QUOTE ]
IsaacHayes said:
Mmmm, I can now make my Tri-lux mag a long runtime light...

1) Does it need to be potted?
2) Is the PWM freq visable?
3) Where do I find operating instructions?

Thanks!

[/ QUOTE ]

1) No potting required (the driver runs COOL)
2) PWM frequency is ~800Hz (you won't see any flicker!)
3) Operating instructions are essentially the same as the LH/LC V2 see here

george.

Cool? Cool! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Good news on the freq, 75hz drives me nuts! (monitors) (60hz makes me sick!) I found the instructions on MrBulks site right before I edited my post.

1) 3amps max, what if the Vf shifts in a tri-lux light and it pulls 3.2amps or so, is that ok?

2) If one were to put it in a mag, we'd make the switch momentary, and how would we attach it to the circuit? I see it already has a switch. Does the built in switch just make contact between (pos in) on the board? (so we could attach mag switched {pos bat in} to the {pos in} on the board?)

Thanks -IH

[ QUOTE ]
IsaacHayes said:
Cool? Cool! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Good news on the freq, 75hz drives me nuts! (monitors) (60hz makes me sick!) I found the instructions on MrBulks site right before I edited my post.

1) 3amps max, what if the Vf shifts in a tri-lux light and it pulls 3.2amps or so, is that ok?

2) If one were to put it in a mag, we'd make the switch momentary, and how would we attach it to the circuit? I see it already has a switch. Does the built in switch just make contact between (pos in) on the board? (so we could attach mag switched {pos bat in} to the {pos in} on the board?)

Thanks -IH

[/ QUOTE ]

The FET is rated to 4.2A (at 25C Ambient) or 3.4A (at 70C Ambient), so 3.2A should be no problem.

The switch on the board is a momentary action. It switches to ground (when pressed) and goes open circuit (when released). So, Mags would need the same kind of switch mod that has been done by folk that have used my nFlex driver.

I will probably ship the driver with the switch not soldered in place, so folk can either solder it down if they want to use it, or pull it out and solder 2 wires to a remote switch.

george.

Would it work if we switched (pos in) instead of (ground in)? I would think so, and that's how the mag switch works...

Any losses or resistance by the introduction of the circuit?
(boy I'm full of questions!)

Thanks again! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink2.gif

[ QUOTE ]
IsaacHayes said:
boy I'm full of questions


[/ QUOTE ]

Yes, but good questions like yours signal somebody intelligent, inquisitive, and trully interested in learning about something (the new driver in this case). My father always said that the only stupid question was the one I did not ask. Plus your qestions help me learn more about the driver as well. I doubth George minds /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Will

[ QUOTE ]
IsaacHayes said:
Would it work if we switched (pos in) instead of (ground in)? I would think so, and that's how the mag switch works...

Any losses or resistance by the introduction of the circuit?
(boy I'm full of questions!)

Thanks again! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink2.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

I will have to draw a schematic of how to hook this driver up. Basically you need to provide a momentary action switch (or use the one on the driver) that closes when pressed. The action closes to GROUND.

The switch carries no current as such, it is just a signal to the uController that then switches the power to the LED via the FET. The FET introduces well under 0.1ohms in series with the LED at 4.2A.

One advantage of the FET doing the switching is that the high current path through the switch is no longer present (especially an issue with switches like the Kroll...).

There are no dumb questions - only dumb answers
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

george.

Ah, yeah switch won't be passing current so losses overall will be less. Do you have any threads about modding the mag switch? I've been searchign but coming up dry. I know they are out there...

Oh, and is the UI0 more than 5 levels, and UI1 is 5? Or can you set the levels (UI0 5levles would be nice)... ?

[ QUOTE ]
IsaacHayes said:
Ah, yeah switch won't be passing current so losses overall will be less. Do you have any threads about modding the mag switch? I've been searchign but coming up dry. I know they are out there...

Oh, and is the UI0 more than 5 levels, and UI1 is 5? Or can you set the levels (UI0 5levles would be nice)... ?

[/ QUOTE ]

Mag switch mod in an excellent nFlex tutorial is here

UI0 is 32 levels (kind of 'smooth') and UI1 is 5 levels. Most folk that have the LH/LC use UI1 and 5 levels is really more than you'll ever need (even though you may want more...)

george.

Thanks for the link! Hmm. I looked at it and I know how to take it apart, but that doesn't really show how to wire the switch or I'm missing something.. I can figure out how to make it momentary easy enough... EDIT: only way I can see is somehow run a wire from the + spring up to the circuit, and insulate it from the switch, then run a wire from the bottom of the switch and top to the switch part on the board. Fitting both the + spring wire and a wire from the contact that touches the + spring may prove tricky. Plus I'll have to isolate where the + spring normal touches the switch contact. (am I making this more difficult that it should be?)

I see. Darn I want only 5 levels but would like to adjust at anytime when it's on, but UI1 adjustment has to be made soon after turning on... Oh and I use momentary a lot.. Hmmm. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

[ QUOTE ]
georges80 said:
[ QUOTE ]
IsaacHayes said:
Ah, yeah switch won't be passing current so losses overall will be less. Do you have any threads about modding the mag switch? I've been searchign but coming up dry. I know they are out there...

Oh, and is the UI0 more than 5 levels, and UI1 is 5? Or can you set the levels (UI0 5levles would be nice)... ?

[/ QUOTE ]

Mag switch mod in an excellent nFlex tutorial is here

UI0 is 32 levels (kind of 'smooth') and UI1 is 5 levels. Most folk that have the LH/LC use UI1 and 5 levels is really more than you'll ever need (even though you may want more...)

george.

[/ QUOTE ]

I just skimmed over modamags tutorial and it's an excellent write up "but it dosen't cover the nFlex switch mod" it's a different animal. You have to isolate the switch from the power circuit, the C and D switch require a different technique for getting the power from the positive battery contact to the board so it doesn't run through the switch. I will try and get something up later if anybody is interested /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Later
Kelly

Ah, cool, thanks Kelly! I have an idea, but the main problem is keeping the switch contact and spring contact from matting at the battery end...

Isaac,

This is a D switch, take it apart and pull out the back switch contact and cut off the part that makes contact with the positive battery spring slug, cut it short enough so when you slide it back in no metal is showing on the back of the switch. Solder your switch wire into the switch contact, do the front side of the switch the same way but you don't have to cut the contact down.

This is just an example I threw together from spare parts, you have to use smaller wire.


For the positive spring slug take a punch, screw driver or something and stick it through the front of the switch and punch out the slug so it's easier to solder to. Lay your wire flat on the back of the slug and solder it then feed the wire into the hole pointing to the bottom of the switch and press the slug back in place.

Hope this helps /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Later
Kelly

Hmm. There's enough room to solder a wire on the tab after you cut it and the switch plate to touch? And the wire will fit back through the blue thing some how? If you've done it I'll trust ya! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Hope this helps anyone else wanting to put this nifty brightness controler into their mag! Now we just have to wait for details on the driver! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/popcorn.gif

Hopefully this 'schematic' will show what is going on in terms of hooking things up. Everything in the D2DIM DRIVER box is the driver itself. I've attempted to show how power flows from the battery to the LED(s) and how the switch is internally wired. For the tech folk you can see the part number of the FET that is on the driver.



george.