How to open the head of Fenix L1P?

Can anyone tell me how to opne the head on a Fenix L1P? I am considering trying to put a Minipro driver w/ Lux III in it.
Thanks,
Chris
.308

boil it like Q-III

Ofcource

Have you considered selling he Fenix with optional leds LiTemania?

It would rock if you did,
Im thinking Cree UV
Or R/O Lux III
Cyan etc etc...
IF you did i would like one in each flavor Please.
PP sent :naughty:

Benny

FENIX reflector + CREE UVV : donut hole...

FENIX L1 + TW0H will be goooood...

warren,

LITEmania said:

FENIX L1 + TW0H will be goooood...

warren,

Click to expand...

Good thing I'm getting a TW0H put into my L1P 2.5 then.

I jumped on cy's sale of those, thankfully JUST in time. I can't wait to see the results, even if it'll be underdriven at 350mAh.

see
FENIX MOD.SALE

Putting a T**H led in it will NOT significantly increase the output, R**H LED's are more efficient at the levels this light is driving the LED at.

Also, removing the head kills your warranty.

chevrofreak said:

Putting a T**H led in it will NOT significantly increase the output, R**H LED's are more efficient at the levels this light is driving the LED at.

Also, removing the head kills your warranty.

Click to expand...

Do most of us here look like the type to care about the warranty on a Fenix? Given that the 2.5 is driven at 350 mAh, I'm wondering if there will be any minor improvements in efficiency for the 2.5 using a TW0H versus the 2.0.

Thanks for the boil tip LITEmania. I boiled it for about 4 minutes and here is what the light looks like disassembled. The reflector is on the left, the light engine is on the right. The light engine is using an emitter instead of a star. Both of these screw into the head. The lens drops out once these are removed. I think I'm going to try a Lambda minipro driver. It will run off of 1AA or 1 li-ion and it should really make a Lux III scream in this thing.











Thanks,
Chris
.308

Haesslich: the L1P v2.5 starts out at 350ma, and goes down from there. Meaning it's not constant current, but voltage boost. That means that going with a H vf LuxIII (same as G vf LuxI) will pull more current. So if you have a TW0H, then expect greater than 350ma starting out current, which means more bright! (Tbin luxIII about equal to RluxI @ low currents, but since you have more current, = more light).

.308: Is the light engine made of copper? That's great if it is!! We know the LED will be plenty cool and make as much lumens as possible! These lights will have some heft to them. (metal reflector & copper LE).

LITEmania said:

FENIX reflector + CREE UVV : donut hole...

FENIX L1 + TW0H will be goooood...

warren,

Click to expand...

Hi Warren,
I'm a bit confused. In one of your other posts you said
"Yes. it's cree uvv.
Beamshot is similiar to IMS20XA without donut hole because the stock reflector of Fenix has a tiny multiple peripheral scratch line inside.
IMO, This gives a orange peel effect in beam."

I ordered a v2.5 L1P in the GB because I thought the reflector in the v2.5 works well with the Cree.



thx,
ernest

I still waiting to get V2.5 from Warren too.
In my openion, driver suit for 1 AA battery mostly volt regulated which cann't make current constant from only 1.5 volt. We can use it as back up flashlight or EDC use.

Hi Warren, Can it use with 3.7 V li ion battery.?

cacuum3d : yes, Fenix stock reflector works fine with Cree.

krit : No, do not beyond 1.9V like jtice tested.

I would also like confirmation that heat sink is indeed made of copper.

Is there a easy way to remove the converter PCB to put in your own? Thanks.

.308,

I posted in the "Fenix Impressions" thread, but I was wondering if we could convince you to post some pictures of the Fenix switch. Does it look like it could be modded for dual level? What are the approx dimensions (so we could find a replacement)?

Thanks

IsaacHayes & jashhash the heatsink does indeed seem to be made out of copper.

goldserve yes you can remove the PCB but I wouldn't say easily. I am not the reverse engineering genius that some of our fellow CPF'ers are. It appears to be epoxied inside the heatsink.

Hikaru I'll try to post some pictures of the switch today.

I also posted a group buy feeler for these heatsinks.

Thanks,
Chris
.308

Here is the switch

Total switch length = .72" or 19mm





Length of push button button to PCB (w/o spring) = .38" or 10mm


Thanks,
Chris
.308

Thanks Chris!

Very nice pics! So when are those copper heatsinks coming along? I can't wait to get my hands on two of them at least!