AWR Hotdriver Regulated M6 Battery Pack

[NewBie]

no, i personally would use RAW cells because of the size of the cell is not dangerously big, and the hotdriver will monitor vBat to the point that if any series cell is weak it just won't turn on.. the charger does the dealing with voltage going in and if you don't use an automatic cell-count charger it's pretty difficult to over charge. Unless i picked up a goverment or LEO contract i wouldn't put more effort into the SFM6 as the 'market' seems to have saturated near about 25-30 units. I might look into including a separate board into the design to include per-cell protection for raw cells but the price is low enough for protected cells it wasn't worth my time and effort.

-awr

Okay, lets say a cell gets weak over a little time, after some use.

If you make your cut-off 3.0V per cell, that works out to 6V.

One could have 4.0V left in one cell, and the other cell could be discharged down to 2.0V, before you cut-off.

The cell the is discharged down to 2.0V is now in a dangerous condition.

 

[andrewwynn]

light won't run if a cell is 2V.. a 2V cell won't hold 1V if you pull current from it. in a series configuration with 4 cells.. if ONE cell was at 3.0v resting the light won't start. The HDM6s are all being made with six protected cells making that issue a moot point.. when the cells get to the point they are 'going bad'.. you will see severely dropped runtime.. it'll go from say 35 minutes to 25 minutes as one 'row' of cells is 'off'.. I'm still exploring the best way to use RAW cells with a 2x3 configuration because eventually the cells will die.. what usually happens is the first bad cell will wipe out a rung of the ladder... the light won't turn on anymore of course, the problem is using a charging solution that is smart enough to not try to charge the remaining 1-cell of voltage up to 2-cell.. i.e. test the voltage before charging.

-awr

 

[dizzy]

AWR, I have a feeling that your 25-30 unit estimate is way low. I would bet alot of people are waiting until you have everything finalized and units are shipping. Once word gets out about how great they work, I can see everyone getting their M6's out of their drawers and closets to use them again.

I also think that people that don't own an M6,will buy one knowing that they can get your HD-M6 and not have to go through a ton of lithiums to have fun with their light.

These are just my thoughts on the subject, so don't hold me to any of this,but I wouldn't get too discouraged about the lack of orders just yet.

 

[nethiker]

As I've mentioned before, I'm extremely interested in Andrew's projects, especially his Hotdriver M6 battery pack. He is definately one of the stars of CPF's brain/talent trust.

The only reason I'm holding off on his Hotdriver projects is that I want him to finish his commitment to the Nano first. I completely understand the realities of cash flow and the need to pay the bills just as I'm sure Andrew understands when people want someone to finish the first job before getting paid for another. This is more of an analogy as I don't consider these projects as jobs per se... more like opportunities to participate with the reward being a light that I would never be able to build on my own. But be it job or opportunity, the expectation of completion of one project before getting involved in the next seems reasonable to me.

I believe the "market" for a regulated rechargable solution for the M6 is much greater than the 25-30 estimated. I would guess that as soon as Andrew takes care of his old business, he will see increased interest for his new projects.

 

[andrewwynn]

like mentioned before with cy, absolutely understandable.. i don't mind at all for less people to order and to hold off... things are in-the works to get things finally wrapped up with the seemingly neverending project.. it took a very long time to get my production assistant hired, trained, and able to really kick some butt... she's working for a really nice bonus, and i totally agree that getting my biggest monkey off my back will make a big difference.. it will happen, and i don't feel any hard feelings in the least for people to rightfully have the exact attitude presented here by Greg... very well spoken. It does help, i will point out.. for some people to hold off.. i am getting enough of the metal cups made for at least 100 units because i sense there will be more sales once people get them and realize they pay for themselves in TWO charges. It's been very draining for me to get stuck in the position where it was not possible to finish one before starting the other, but things are in a faaar better place than even just 1-2 mo. ago.. and way out of the 'never going to survive' of dec.

-awr

 

[dizzy]

BUMP for HD-M6 general questions thread.

I had lost this one myself.

 

[andrewwynn]

thanks for the bump.. people have been posting to the wrong thread. HERE is the official place to ask about HDM6.

-awr

 

[dizzy]

Hi Andrew, I was wondering what the voltage range will be for the HD-M6 to allow use of osram lamps in the M6 with the FM or your future bi pin lamp holder.

Will the average "joe" be able to dial in the correct setting for other lamps? Also, what kind of meter would be best for measuring this voltage, Fluke digital or Simpson 260 type analog meter. I don't have an O'scope any more to look at wave forms. I assume you need to set the voltage with the lamp load in the circuit starting low and increasing until you reach the proper setpoint.

Another question is will you be supplying a user manual with the HD to give basic instructions on how to fine tune the hotdriver to specific lamps?

Sorry to bother you with these questions but I am always looking for ways to make my M6 a little (or alot) brighter.

 

[cnjl3]

The PIR with its PWM is the one that needs a high priced "fluke" but only if you want a direct reading-Winny did provide a formula to use if you dont have a "fluke" DMM. With the HDM6 all you will need is a plain jane DMM - at least thats how i see it.

 

[andrewwynn]

The osram 64275 will be ideally suited for use with HDM6 but it will need fine-tuning.. you'd have to change at least the current limit up to the monster current draw it has, or remove current limiting and turn the voltage down to 7.0V..

It is a cake-walk to adjust the voltage on a hotdriver.. you can use a 1950s analog meter. I recommend setting the voltage with a 'disposable' lamp like a 12V 20Wer.

I have the setting directions online.. if you go to the first post..or maybe the first post of the sales thread there is a link to the exact post describing how to set them.

The M6 with the 275 lamp will be probably 40-50% brighter with a nicer beam (less egg-shape).. don't expect killer throw and you'll be very happy.

-awr

 

[dizzy]

Bump with a new M6 question for Andrew.

Since there has been no reply in FM's thread, are you still planning on producing a bi-pin socket adapter for the M6 to use the osram 64275 lamps?

I am definetly interested in getting one if they are on your list of things to do. Thanks,

Mike

 

[cnjl3]

I was charging my IB1400s pack and was just goofing off and I happened to notice that they fit really easily in my M6. This is a pack of fifteen IB1400s! Did you notice that i took your advise about an extra nut on the front of the battery pack to keep all the pressure off of the center acorn? Although i used nylon instead of brass i hope the substitution doesnt harm anything.
I really liked your idea
Many thanks, Andrew!

here is a shot of them in the M6 with Petrev's extension installed:

they only stick out a "little" bit – so either 12 IB-1400s would work or I need to get one of FM's extension for some future mod?

 

[andrewwynn]

dizzy.. hope you aren't in the flood-zones..

to ans. your question.. when some dust settles i want to make as easy as possible upgrade to a blown MNxx lamp assembly to use WA lamps.. hopefully something relatively adept folk can carbon-copy.. rather than a 'ground up' solution that will be $35.. hoping people can do themselves for $10... ala petrev's solution.

I'd have to explore what NIMH solutions will work length-wies.. i would be more interested in GP2000x9 or CBP2500x6 (or 9)... the IB1400s are needed to make 18V but the lamps are too big to fit in the M6 reflector anyhow.

-awr

 

[cnjl3]

So "your" from the ground up version would be $35.00? Fm's is up to $46.00! But i would snatch one or maybe two in a heartbeat if they ever come to production. I sure wish that Petrev had done a step by step of his blown M6 MN conversion to his Osram bulb. i have looked at his pictures of his modified bulb and the finished product works but it looks like it isnt a plug in-so it seems that there would be major soldering if his bulb ever blows-"but" with regulators either your HD or the PIR maybe his bulb will last forever? I am very interested in your conversion and look forward to your solution.

CYL

 

[petrev]

So "your" from the ground up version would be $35.00? Fm's is up to $46.00! But i would snatch one or maybe two in a heartbeat if they ever come to production. I sure wish that Petrev had done a step by step of his blown M6 MN conversion to his Osram bulb. i have looked at his pictures of his modified bulb and the finished product works but it looks like it isnt a plug in-so it seems that there would be major soldering if his bulb ever blows-"but" with regulators either your HD or the PIR maybe his bulb will last forever? I am very interested in your conversion and look forward to your solution.

CYL

Hi Carlos

Here is the method I posted

Hi Curtis

Bulb first - this is my MN21-64275



How 2
Take one used (blown) MN21
1. Un-solder the springs from MN21
2. Break off bulb (mind your eyes)
3. Drill / Dremmel out centre potting and stuff.
4. Cut slot - my Leatherman saw was just the right width
5. File edges so that bumps on side of bulb slide down but locate bulb nicely centred
6. Dremmel tiny bit off each side of bulb sides near bottom until goes through M6 mirror hole
6B. Push 2 pieces of heat resistant wire - KIU Orange is perfect - over legs
7. Solder orange wires to springs - channels to the springs have to be slightly opened out - Dremmel
8. Done

AWR will soon be making MN21->WA Bi-Pin sockets I believe ( when he gets a moment )

The legs of the Bulb are pushed down the middle of the KIU orange heat resistant wire ! seems to work ! ? ! as a holding pattern solution - and I have swapped the bulb once now.

Any Questions - Just Ask

Cheers Pete

 

[andrewwynn]

i was wondering what you did for the 'socket'.. pretty smart for a workaround. i'm aiming to use some small tubing that is 'just the right size' and some potting compound.

-awr

 

[cnjl3]

Thanks Pete!

A great step by step DIY.

Looks easy enough - I will have to try it out when i get some time

CYL

Carlos

 

[dizzy]

Andrew, high and dry thank you. I live on top of a hill made of shale, no worries.

I would be able to do petrev's mod to a MNxx if I had a blown one to work with. Any extras from your testing and R&D work?

Pete, do you put any potting around the bulb to keep it from rattling or as a heat-sink? Also I don't understand how to do the second step 6.

Do they need to be soldered or just a friction fit? Thanks

Mike

 

[petrev]

Andrew, high and dry thank you. I live on top of a hill made of shale, no worries.

I would be able to do petrev's mod to a MNxx if I had a blown one to work with. Any extras from your testing and R&D work?

Pete, do you put any potting around the bulb to keep it from rattling or as a heat-sink? Also I don't understand how to do the second step 6.

Do they need to be soldered or just a friction fit? Thanks

Mike

Hi Mike

- Attempt number 2 (IE6 Crashed again - must remember not to try posting using it)

Typo ? What Typo

#6(2) just friction and the elastic walls of Kiu wire - Potting stuff might have been good but had none so . . .some proper sockets would be good too !

Bit of wobble room but step 5 works quite well - this is a drawing of section through the MN-pillar



Just meant to be a cheap and cheerful solution until someone makes a better one !

Any Questions . . . ?

Cheers Pete

 

[dizzy]

Thanks for clearing that up for me (and others?) Now all I need is a dead MNxx and an osram 64275 or two and some ambition.

That drawing says it all. (Worth a thousand words) Thanks