AWR Hotdriver Regulated M6 Battery Pack

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wquiles

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cnee said:
Since the MN20 is so hard to come by these days, I am using the MN16 instead in my M6 when I don't need to use the HOLA. Would HDM6 work with the MN16?
I just did a search and came up with a voltage of about 6.8-6.9 volts for the MN16 (while the MN20 runs at 7.2-7.3 volts). Since the HDM6 is setup to run the MN21 at 6.8 volts or so, it "should" work fine since the soft start would prevent any spikes from killing the MN16 at startup.

Andrew, what do you think?

Will
 

andrewwynn

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Oh i replied to this but the 'bit bucket' apparently ate the reply.

if the MN16 runs about 6.8V the HDM6 would have to be configured differently.. actually.. it would be much easier to set up to pair MN16 and MN21 since then it can be straight voltage regulation. If the MN16s are available and output similar light to the MN20 i would set up anybody that wanted that setup instead of the standard setup for M6.

If you tried to use the standard HDM6 setup with the MN16, it would likely blow the bulb, the voltage has to be turned down.

The HDM6 is actually not set to run a particular voltage for the MN21.. it's set for amps for the MN21 and volts for the MN20... a magical little combination since the MN21 takes more current but runs at lower voltage.. an interesting anomaly from the norm.. since normally higher power lamps are higher current and higher voltage.. however when using the same battery source, the physics work out really nicely to have current limiting for the high power and voltage limiting for the low power.. badda bing.


-awr
 

cnee

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Thanks for the explanations. I think I would still prefer to keep the standard MN20/MN21 setup, as using the MN16 is really temporary to me...
 

andrewwynn

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Will just emailed me that the new tailcup required for the protected cells (prototype) is done.. three cheers for wquiles.. he has been very instrumental to bring this project to be.. making both the first and second generation tailcup, and also lending his M6 to the cause.. it really is his baby.. you should have seen how it was wrapped.

I managed to blow the MN21.. not sure if i mentioned that.. be very careful if you decide to tweak the output of your HDM6.. (just like all hotdrivers.. there are pots to adjust the output)... when i was hooking up the test leads, i shorted vBat to vBulb.. the lamp lasted less than 1/20th of a second.. i guess it goes to prove you really can't run the MN21 from such a power plant w/o regulation.

replacements were shipped friday, i should be able to get some beamshots online this week to show how the HOLA and LOLA compare to other lights like the Mag11, Mag85, M66, and just to be mean, the Mag100s.

-awr
 

Css2000

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Great job guys
drool.gif
.. This is going to be revolutionary!!
 

ronson5

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2 quick questions: 1) will this battery pack work with the KL6 head, and 2) how exactly is the tail cup removed, i'd hate to mess up the stock tailcap? btw, i have the JS battery pack and love it, except i tend to forget to recharge after letting it sit for a month.

chuck
 

wquiles

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ronson5 said:
2 quick questions: 1) will this battery pack work with the KL6 head, and 2) how exactly is the tail cup removed, i'd hate to mess up the stock tailcap? btw, i have the JS battery pack and love it, except i tend to forget to recharge after letting it sit for a month.

chuck
That is a tough one. The KL6 was designed for 3 primary cells (9 volt nominal), but this regulated pack will be set to 7.2/7.3v, so even though I am sure that you will get the KL6 to light up, I don't know if the KL6 will still work in regulation at that low of a voltage :ohgeez:

I no longer have a KL6 head, so I can't find out for you for sure, although if you have an adjustable power supply you can set it up to 7.2V and try it out ;)

Now, in terms of removing the tailcup, it is VERY easy to do. Pull the spring out, and with some pliers brab the inner part of the tailcup and simply pull out - it is just pressed-in and it comes out if you pull out hard enough :)

Will
 
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andrewwynn

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I'd have to know more about the lamp used with the KL6 head. the M6 also uses 9v nominal pack.. 3s2p.. some fancy wiring since it's in a 2s3p 'look'.

the JS pack is voltage regulated to 6.8V i believe.. does that light use MN16 lamps at 6.8V? the HD would have to be re-tuned for that lamp if you'd want to use that lamp as mentioned earlier... it's doable, not as efficient at getting the energy from the battery to lamp as the JS pack, but with twice the energy, it's a bit of a moot point, you will still have well over an hour of runtime if the lamp is the output i think it is.

-awr
 

ronson5

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the reason i asked about the kl6 head was that JS had said in his mr6 thread not to use his battery pack with the KL6. i think he said it could destroy the KL6. awr, the KL6 is just the lux5 led for the m6.

thx for the info guys.
chuck
 

andrewwynn

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aah i see.. yes, we'd hvae to make a speical setting to work with that head.. but holy cow it'd run forever.

-awr
 

ronson5

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well, i placed my order. it would cool if the kl6 would work, but the 40min runtime on the hola why i'm placing my order. do let us know, tho, if u figure out whether your battery pack will work w/ the kl6.
 

andrewwynn

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good news.. i found a power jack that looks like it'll fit.. means i can incorporate a power jack on the side that is on the tailcap side.. you can charge just by taking off the tailcap.. and if you don't need to use the alligator clips for another purpose.. you can have your charger purpose-built with the power plug.

-awr
 

dizzy

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Great news Andrew. This just keeps on getting better and better.:thumbsup:You and petrev are really on a roll with all these innovations.

Keep it going and SF won't be able to build the M6's fast enough.I'm sure it will, and has, helped their M6 sales, even though they would not like to admit it.

What ever it takes to keep sales going will only benefit us all with more new products in the future.:thanks:
 

andrewwynn

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people occasionally ask if i will 'get in trouble'.. making surefire and maglite mods.. i say.. as long as they require the purchase of a maglite or a surefire light.. i am only helping their business, that is a win-win situation for them.

-awr
 

dizzy

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andrewwynn said:
people occasionally ask if i will 'get in trouble'.. making surefire and maglite mods.. i say.. as long as they require the purchase of a maglite or a surefire light.. i am only helping their business, that is a win-win situation for them.

-awr

I couldn't agree more!!

I'm sure they love not having to R&D all the accessories that help to sell their lights.

Did I see a 250w Mag Mod somewhere?? LOL!!
 

NewBie

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andrewwynn said:
ps.. i'm leaning toward only selling fully protected packs initially using protected cells within.. mostly as a lower logistical nightmare issue.. but what i might do is that if testing goes well with the raw cells and the price difference is worth bothering.. i'd rebate the difference for people wishing to downgrade. I want to get the ball rolling as fast as possible with as much momentum as posible.. the latest calculations for the machining were an add'l week compared to the last time i did it.. so i want to get in the queue before they add on another week.

-awr


If you do go the raw/unprotected route, have you came up with a good way to monitor individual cell voltage and individual cell temperature?
 

andrewwynn

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no, i personally would use RAW cells because of the size of the cell is not dangerously big, and the hotdriver will monitor vBat to the point that if any series cell is weak it just won't turn on.. the charger does the dealing with voltage going in and if you don't use an automatic cell-count charger it's pretty difficult to over charge. Unless i picked up a goverment or LEO contract i wouldn't put more effort into the SFM6 as the 'market' seems to have saturated near about 25-30 units. I might look into including a separate board into the design to include per-cell protection for raw cells but the price is low enough for protected cells it wasn't worth my time and effort.

-awr
 

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