Dark Sucks: Research Poll- what do you want to see?

[archer6817j]

Here is why I haven't bought your light, or any of the other high output makers, lights. That dam Shiningbeam driver. You need something more customizable. The 10% low is just too high. I want my low to be around 1 lumen or less. The medium to be about 80. And the high can be as bright as you can get it. To me, the low-low is the most important feature.

Secondly, I want High CRI, or at the very least a warm tint.

I would also want to be able to use standard 123's in addition to the 18650's.

Hey Brasso, thanks for the reply. I agree it would be great to have a more versatile UI. Unfortunately most of us custom builders can't afford to have our own drivers made, and there aren't many options commercially available...especially at higher outputs. The shiningbeam driver is reliable, cost effective, and the 3 mode UI is basic, but functional. Not ideal, but it's about the only reasonable option out there.

The second problem is that most custom lights use a mechanical on/off switch (what I call a "linear" UI), as opposed to an electronic switch that can do just about anything. I like the simplicity of the on/off switch, but it limits the UI options. Custom lights are already expensive and you have to go through a lot of shenanigans to implement an electronic switch...and shenanigans costs money

I know I saw a project a long time ago about a user programmable UI. Would people be interested in a driver than can be programmed to any output level or number of modes you want? In order for that driver be a component that is easy to use, it would still have to be a linear UI and a mechanical on/off switch. I've been considering something like this that is 17mm diameter...which is what many p60 modules use. It's mostly a pipe dream since the cost to design and manufacture a driver from scratch is substantial. If I could sell a bunch as components, that might make it more possible.

The final problem with driver design is another "here are three options, pick any two" issue. Linear drivers (like the shiningbeam) are great for 1 LED and one Li-Ion. However, you can't use a single CR123 and if you use 2xcr123 (6V) the driver is putting off almost as much heat as the LED. If you use a boost driver you can't use Li-Ion because the battery voltage is too high. If you use a buck driver...you can't use 1 Li-ion because you won't have enough voltage when the battery starts to get drained. Buck/boost you say? You are going to pay a lot of efficiency and size penalties. I'm no expert, but I've been talking to one about driver design, and it just doesn't seem like there is a "catch all" solution that is all benefit and no drawback. If anyone has some good advice I'd be happy to hear it. However (for the time being) my understanding is that if you want a driver to be efficient you pretty much have to pick one battery and design around it.

The only thing I can help you with is the High CRI XPG, I have a few in stock if anyone is interested

 

[archer6817j]

Id bet a 1X26650 COPPER p60 host or just a C head compatible body would sell.
the FM 1X26650 would sell out pretty fast I remember.
that battery is getting pretty popular and with all of these "hi power" drop-ins people
want more current.
the Cryos bezels seem to be popular too- imagine a Cryos bezel on a copper 26650 body?
sounds good to me

keep up the good work BTW!

Hey psychbeat, thanks for the note. I've been doing some experimenting with a solid copper head. It doesn't seem to have "much" appreciable benefit if it's combined with an LED on an MCPCB. It looks awesome, but I don't observe the same huge jump in lumens that direct soldering to copper gives you. That said, I just cut some stock to run 10 solid copper heads for the Alpha. I'm doing a custom for someone and thought I might as well make a few. Any interest?

I think heavily finned bodies like the cryos provide the benefit of longer run time at higher power, but it won't increase the max output like soldering directly to copper will.

 

[Gregozedobe]

Would people be interested in a driver than can be programmed to any output level or number of modes you want? In order for that driver be a component that is easy to use, it would still have to be a linear UI and a mechanical on/off switch. I've been considering something like this that is 17mm diameter...which is what many p60 modules use. It's mostly a pipe dream since the cost to design and manufacture a driver from scratch is substantial. If I could sell a bunch as components, that might make it more possible.

It might be worth looking at the driver in the 3-mode programmeable version of the AKOray K-106 (1xAA) and K109(1x123) lights ? It has 3 modes, and the user can set each mode to a particular setting chosen from many (many) choices. This allows people to select whatever level they want, in whatever order they want, including or excluding various disco modes. Once selected (programmed) a simple 1/2 click progresses to the next mode, and it has memory (remembers the last mode selected).

 

[twl]

Jason,
Since I just recently found out about you, I have been positively glued to the computer, reading about your lights.
I think you are doing great.

I am just going to make some stream of conciousness comments and recommendations to hopefully assist in your progress.

First, I am one that loves the current size of your Alpha light, and that is about the perfect size for a real flashlight, IMO. So, I have no criticism of that at all. I have tried the little lights, and they have shortcomings(pardon the pun!) of their own.

However, we must recognize that the little lights are popular because they are fun, and super easy to carry, and have alot of "wow factor" with alot of punch from a tiny size. So, this is someplace that needs to be addressed.
My opinion is that the 1xAA size light is not well catered-to in this flashlight market. It's hard to find a nice 1xAA light. Seems nobody wants to do that form.
So, I'd recommend a 1xAA form that can accept up to 4.2v so that it can take a 14500, or a 14505 primary, or any primary AA, or an Eneloop.

What I think would be awesome for you to do is to "scale down" that carbon fiber mock-up you have in your "feeler" thread to an AA size light with all of it scaled down proportionally, so you have the same look and proportion, but in a smaller size package with the AA size battery. Shorter and smaller diameter head and tube both.
If that thing was 3.5"-4" long and 1" across at the head, and with that sweet new finned-and-fluted head shape you came up with, and a carbon fiber tube, with a Hi-CRI XPG it would set the world on fire.
You could just use the QTC pill in there, and get the completely variable brightness range, and that would be way cool too, and maybe even cost less money.
Cool styling, very small size, jewel-like construction which you do so well, Hi-CRI XPG, QTC variable brightness control, and AA compatibility with all the various lithium or Nimh options in that size range.
That's the "grand slam". Especially if you could keep it as reasonably priced as possible. I think alot of people would jump on that.

I say AA instead of AAA because the AAA lights are everywhere, and the 10440 doesn't have protected cells available, so even though it's small, it has some drawbacks. The AA size is the number one battery size and the demand for decent lights in that 1xAA battery form is not really met. I have wished for a decent 1xAA light for a long time, and I can't find one. The best ones are the cheap stuff from China which are just "okay" and "cheep" and have issues with mode-skipping and all that jazz.

So, I think a Hi-CRI version of your carbon fiber prototype with that finned-and-fluted head, scaled down to AA, and the QTC, would take the market by storm.
It would be a little pocket jewel, with all the right stuff.
That's my suggestion.
But I still want the Alpha in that carbon fiber with finned head version, because I like that size with the 18650.
I just think you could capitalize on that "look" in a smaller size version also.

So, everything I have seen from you is very nice, and I'm actually worried about my spending money now, because I think I'm going to be starting a Prometheus/DS collection!
All your Alphas are very nice. But as I mentioned in the other thread, the carbon fiber one with the finned head is a total knock-out, and I love that.

 

[TheExpert]

A light that i would buy in a heartbeat would have the UI of hds, the seamless design of Mac's EDC. And the modular theme of Dereelight and Moddoolar.bl And the compatibility with different battery tubes of 18650/rcr123/18350/ 26650. This last part is really a stretch but ill say it any way solar power capable. something like a solar charger you could just plug it into like one of the itp lights can't remember which one. Please dont change the look of your lights they are the most elegant lights on the market i have seen for the money. And with that please stick to the simple construction easy on of pocket clip and McClicky switch.

 

[hoplite]

Hi Jason. Is it technically feasible to plate the interior and threads, and anodize the exterior, and if so, have you investigated the additional masking cost?

 

[archer6817j]

This last part is really a stretch but ill say it any way solar power capable. something like a solar charger you could just plug it into like one of the itp lights can't remember which one. Please dont change the look of your lights they are the most elegant lights on the market i have seen for the money. And with that please stick to the simple construction easy on of pocket clip and McClicky switch.

Hey there, I don't sell this but here is a link to one of my blog posts. I spent 10 days in the Utah backcountry with an Alpha and USB solar panel

 

[archer6817j]

Hi Jason. Is it technically feasible to plate the interior and threads, and anodize the exterior, and if so, have you investigated the additional masking cost?

I did actually and the masking cost was something like $50 per light. Since it's done by hand I was also worried that it would be unreliable. So far there's no "easy" solution but I'm open to ideas and options

 

[hoplite]

I did actually and the masking cost was something like $50 per light. Since it's done by hand I was also worried that it would be unreliable. So far there's no "easy" solution but I'm open to ideas and options

That's probably better spent on "new and improved" innards, or the ever-popular More Power. How's chances of ever seeing some of the stealthier nitrides? Would Boron Carbide be suitable?

 

[Chauncey Gardiner]

I don't know if it would improve sales, but it would be cool to receive a DVD accompanying your new light showing the process of it being built. You could produce one DVD of each run, not each light. 1st guy: "WOW, NICE LIGHT DUDE!" 2nd guy: "Thanks, want to have a beer and see how it was made?" 1st guy: "Sure." .......After watching the video. 2nd guy: Oh man, that was so cool, I'm gunna save-up and buy a light from Jason. 1st guy: "I know, right, want another beer?"

Chance :thumbsup:

 

[S1LVA]

I need(want) an Alpha mule.



S1LVA

 

[archer6817j]

Ive got some wide angle boom reflectors that have very little hotspot and you will get a lot more otf lumens

 

[S1LVA]

Tempting....

Once I get my taxes done, I plan on making some new purchases!

S1LVA

 

[Child of Rawls]

A single RCR 123a or similar sized battery light.

 

[S1LVA]

A single RCR 123a or similar sized battery light.

That would be an Alpha Shorty, my friend. I think there were only a handful made. I have one of them!

S1LVA

 

[psychbeat]

I'd like to see the SMALLEST possible single 18650 light.
Preferably with a direct to copper neutral XM-L and small optic or 18mm reflector to save size.


Twisty 3mode SB driver ~3amps

 

[SikDMAX]

That would be an Alpha Shorty, my friend. I think there were only a handful made. I have one of them!

S1LVA

Oooh.... I want to see!!! I need one of these.

 

[S1LVA]

Oooh.... I want to see!!! I need one of these.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?326433-Dark-Sucks-Alpha-XM18-B-Amazing!Post 17

 

[davyro]

Hi Jason,I've taken quite a bit of interest in your lights over the last few months & I've got to say your workmanship is very very good.The thing is with custom lights in my opinion
is everyone seems to have a fixation with titanium(well not everyone but the majority).I know this would send prices right up & you might not be able to get hold of it easily.Having
said that i think it would improve your sales if you could manage to do a few in titanium.My personal preference would be a RCR123a light but there is a very good argument for
an AA size light that could run on 14500 as well as the AA's.As for pocket clips i still don't get what the fuss is about having to have one,they're just not for me in any way shape
or form.Keep plugging away Jason your not to far away from making that must have light,at this current time they're a bit too big for myself .I have enough lights of the Alpha's
size & i find the RCR123a lights in my collection get 95% of usage because of there practicality.As a result of this that's the size light I'm always on the look out for.

 

[egrep]

I love my Alpha Shorty BB. Suhweet elegant pocket torch.

That would be an Alpha Shorty, my friend. I think there were only a handful made. I have one of them!

S1LVA

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