archer6817j
Enlightened
Here is why I haven't bought your light, or any of the other high output makers, lights. That dam Shiningbeam driver. You need something more customizable. The 10% low is just too high. I want my low to be around 1 lumen or less. The medium to be about 80. And the high can be as bright as you can get it. To me, the low-low is the most important feature.
Secondly, I want High CRI, or at the very least a warm tint.
I would also want to be able to use standard 123's in addition to the 18650's.
Hey Brasso, thanks for the reply. I agree it would be great to have a more versatile UI. Unfortunately most of us custom builders can't afford to have our own drivers made, and there aren't many options commercially available...especially at higher outputs. The shiningbeam driver is reliable, cost effective, and the 3 mode UI is basic, but functional. Not ideal, but it's about the only reasonable option out there.
The second problem is that most custom lights use a mechanical on/off switch (what I call a "linear" UI), as opposed to an electronic switch that can do just about anything. I like the simplicity of the on/off switch, but it limits the UI options. Custom lights are already expensive and you have to go through a lot of shenanigans to implement an electronic switch...and shenanigans costs money
I know I saw a project a long time ago about a user programmable UI. Would people be interested in a driver than can be programmed to any output level or number of modes you want? In order for that driver be a component that is easy to use, it would still have to be a linear UI and a mechanical on/off switch. I've been considering something like this that is 17mm diameter...which is what many p60 modules use. It's mostly a pipe dream since the cost to design and manufacture a driver from scratch is substantial. If I could sell a bunch as components, that might make it more possible.
The final problem with driver design is another "here are three options, pick any two" issue. Linear drivers (like the shiningbeam) are great for 1 LED and one Li-Ion. However, you can't use a single CR123 and if you use 2xcr123 (6V) the driver is putting off almost as much heat as the LED. If you use a boost driver you can't use Li-Ion because the battery voltage is too high. If you use a buck driver...you can't use 1 Li-ion because you won't have enough voltage when the battery starts to get drained. Buck/boost you say? You are going to pay a lot of efficiency and size penalties. I'm no expert, but I've been talking to one about driver design, and it just doesn't seem like there is a "catch all" solution that is all benefit and no drawback. If anyone has some good advice I'd be happy to hear it. However (for the time being) my understanding is that if you want a driver to be efficient you pretty much have to pick one battery and design around it.
The only thing I can help you with is the High CRI XPG, I have a few in stock if anyone is interested