Easy Bridgelux DIY

[blasterman]

For bigger arrays I use a large CPU heatsink and fan, or brick type heat sink from Heat Sink USA and drop a low RPM 80-120mm fan on it. The Wakefields are pricey, but I've contacted local aluminum mills and the price wouldn't be much better for shorts runs. Biggest hassle is 'lapping' the ends with extruded aluminum given I know I could design a more efficient cross section than the Wakefields.

 

[purduephotog]

For bigger arrays I use a large CPU heatsink and fan, or brick type heat sink from Heat Sink USA and drop a low RPM 80-120mm fan on it. The Wakefields are pricey, but I've contacted local aluminum mills and the price wouldn't be much better for shorts runs. Biggest hassle is 'lapping' the ends with extruded aluminum given I know I could design a more efficient cross section than the Wakefields.

Ahhh. I see the problem- that unit 19754-M-AB is listed for just under 19$ for me due to some contract pricing.
Please accept my apologies, I didn't realize there was that much of a difference.

 

[Horsefeathers]

Is there a Wakefield heatsink for the Bridgelux ES series emitters? I am having trouble finding the model number for them.

I was looking through Wakefield website and the heatsinks for 15 watt Bridgelux LED's is around $10.00--which is not that bad. If they have one for the ES series that would be great.

One question I do have, is about running long (10-15 feet) wires from the power supply to the LED's. Is that going to be a problem? Or does the higher voltage DC handle the distance okay?

purduephotog said: "Ahhh. I see the problem- that unit 19754-M-AB is listed for just under 19$ for me due to some contract pricing. Please accept my apologies, I didn't realize there was that much of a difference."

No worries. At the < 2000 lumen led heatsinks I think the prices are reasonable at less than $11.00.

Horsefeathers

 

[evilc66]

Long wire runs require appropriate wire gauge to minimize voltage drop. If you are running a constant current driver, then the driver will adjust for the voltage drop accordingly. If you are running a constant voltage power supply, then selecting the right wire will be more important. If you have excessive voltage drop in the wires, you can adjust the current limiting resistor value (which you really should run, even if it's not necessary by the voltage drop of the emitter) to compensate.

 

[blasterman]

One question I do have, is about running long (10-15 feet) wires from the power supply to the LED's. Is that going to be a problem? Or does the higher voltage DC handle the distance okay?

18 AWG speaker wire, which I use for most of my longer runs, has a resistance of like .5 ohm per 100 feet. That alone is negligible Any runs shorter than that aren't even worth calculating.

Even with current regulation some energy is lost due to heating of the wire, but Evil is correct.