GatLight V3 - Carbon Fiber / Titanium with Cree XR-E
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Eric242
Flashlight Enthusiast
Wow, lot´s of V3 Rockets in the EU already. Can´t wait to get my tux.
Did you EU guys had to pay customs fees and who delivered the light (UPS, DHL...)?
Eric
Did you EU guys had to pay customs fees and who delivered the light (UPS, DHL...)?
Eric
ArsMachina
Enlightened
Hi Eric,
the parcel was delivered by DHL Express to my door this afternoon and yes, I had to pay customs - 150 Euros for two Ti lights
But they are worth the extra costs
Jochen
the parcel was delivered by DHL Express to my door this afternoon and yes, I had to pay customs - 150 Euros for two Ti lights
But they are worth the extra costs
Jochen
V3 safe and sound in Northern VA....even got the S/N I requested!....my lucky #024! AWESOME work lumencraft!
The gift box it comes in is very nice but I'm going on a bike and canoe trip this weekend so until I find a suitable holster for this beast it'll get tossed in my backpack in a good old peli case...
The gift box it comes in is very nice but I'm going on a bike and canoe trip this weekend so until I find a suitable holster for this beast it'll get tossed in my backpack in a good old peli case...
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btw, Not that it matters because it's such an amazing light but i too used a ZTS Pulse Load Multi-Battery Tester (MBT-1) and it registered at 60%. I've got stock piles of these amondotech titanium brand 123's, my torch collection loves 'em! anyway, thank you a million times over! From the all the "making of" photos and steady stream of updates, you've made this such an awesome experience!
Amorphous
Enlightened
Wow!!
They are just unbelievably buuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu(inhale)uuuuuuuuuuuuutiful :twothumbs
They are just unbelievably buuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu(inhale)uuuuuuuuuuuuutiful :twothumbs
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mobile1
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thanks for the nice words and cool photos (remember to save them for the photo competition - to get our next light).
Also we'll forward your comments to the machine shop. A large part of all this has to do with the quality they delivered - despite some delays - the machining on the parts is aerospace quality.
Than also good news on the Tuxedo front... This coming Monday I'll pick up the first batch of Tuxedo units to be shipped out to you guys Tuesday or Monday (together with all remaining TI units).
Also we'll forward your comments to the machine shop. A large part of all this has to do with the quality they delivered - despite some delays - the machining on the parts is aerospace quality.
Than also good news on the Tuxedo front... This coming Monday I'll pick up the first batch of Tuxedo units to be shipped out to you guys Tuesday or Monday (together with all remaining TI units).
hivoltage
Enlightened
I just got mine but I have to go out and eat a big juicy steak so I cant open it until later whan I have more time to drool over it. Those pictures look awsome!!!:thumbsup:
The Coach
Enlightened
Got mine (#57) today, came DHL ground. Pictures don't do this light justice. It's a work of art. Thanks to Walter and everyone at Lumencraft. You guys must have some tiny hands. :thumbsup:
reptiles
Enlightened
Re: GatLight Arrived in Philly 27 July
Greetings,
Just wanted to report #193 Rec'd in Phila PA yesterday.
Very nice design, wonderful finish on the Ti parts.
I like the variable intensity knob (with switch within) although I'm surprised that it gets brighter when turned counter-clockwise --I would have thought it would be the opposite. No worries, though.
I did wrap a bit of stiff paper around the battery to prevent rattling (different battery brands have slightly different diameters.)
The only detraction I noticed is the light intensity dims a tad if pressure is applied to the knob (as in changing hand positions) ... suppose that is a function of the thread tolerance --any tighter and it wouldn't turn smoothly.
Actually it is similar to the way some McGizmo's PD's behave when you apply pressure to the head (although in those, they get brighter.)
All in all a most amazing light. I'm glad I bought one.
Cheers,
Mark
Greetings,
Just wanted to report #193 Rec'd in Phila PA yesterday.
Very nice design, wonderful finish on the Ti parts.
I like the variable intensity knob (with switch within) although I'm surprised that it gets brighter when turned counter-clockwise --I would have thought it would be the opposite. No worries, though.
I did wrap a bit of stiff paper around the battery to prevent rattling (different battery brands have slightly different diameters.)
The only detraction I noticed is the light intensity dims a tad if pressure is applied to the knob (as in changing hand positions) ... suppose that is a function of the thread tolerance --any tighter and it wouldn't turn smoothly.
Actually it is similar to the way some McGizmo's PD's behave when you apply pressure to the head (although in those, they get brighter.)
All in all a most amazing light. I'm glad I bought one.
Cheers,
Mark
AndyTiedye
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: GatLight Arrived in Philly 27 July
034 arrived in California yesterday. It is BEAUTIFUL!
The larger knob is easier to turn, and having a clickie in it ROCKS!
That should also prevent it from draining batteries like the v2's.
The pressure thing has a cool side-effect — you can flash the light whether it is on or off —
kind of like having a forward AND reverse clickie.
I was surprised that the dimming went the other way from the others too.
I understand that Li Ions are OK if we don't run it on full for too long
(i.e. until it starts to get hot)
What would be the highest safe setting if you are going to put it down for a while?
034 arrived in California yesterday. It is BEAUTIFUL!
The larger knob is easier to turn, and having a clickie in it ROCKS!
That should also prevent it from draining batteries like the v2's.
The pressure thing has a cool side-effect — you can flash the light whether it is on or off —
kind of like having a forward AND reverse clickie.
I was surprised that the dimming went the other way from the others too.
I understand that Li Ions are OK if we don't run it on full for too long
(i.e. until it starts to get hot)
What would be the highest safe setting if you are going to put it down for a while?
mobile1
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: GatLight Arrived in Philly 27 July
Thanks for the comments...
To the questions. Yes you can put in PROTECTED rechargeable 123s 3.6V (or 3V). The 3.6V gives you a bit extra brightness at max. However with a 3.6V the LED is really unefficient up there and dumps a lot of heat, besides it's only a bit brighter (perceived) but runtime is A LOT less.
If you set the light to full power and rotate it (starting from the point it starts diming), turning maybe 1/16th of a rotation should be plenty - you basically just turn it down a notch (with the smooth brightness contoll, a notch meaning where you can visibly tell a difference) - that should be enough. Brightness scales logarithmically so a bit less bright means A LOT LESS current and heat and A LOT MORE runtime.
Also if you use a 123, set it to max and don't hold it you'll notice the light gets very warm, especially the part with the engraving gets VERY HOT (a result of the good heat transfer using the copper core LED board). However the bars will be cooler, so keep your fingers on those if you pick up the light.
One more thing to consider in regards to rechargeables: This light is designed to completely deplete any battery you put in there. I think the boost chip will boost voltages from all the way down to 1.5 or 1.7V. This is needed so that we get full brightness with the primary lithiums - which drop more than 1V under full load if you pull 4+ watts out of them.
Now the rechargeables under load never drop that much, which means to get the same watts out of the battery the regulation chip needs to pull less current, since boost chips are rated by current, this allows for a bit higher max brightness). However the problem is that with this low voltage boost chip, the rechargeable 123s will be drainged to way below 2.8 or 2.5V (which is the recommended cut off) - and doing so will massively shorten their lifetime... (the V2 had a 2.5V cut off, but that made the light less bright for use with 123s). So when you use rechargeables charge them before they are depleted. Also the "replace battery" strobe probably won't happen with the rechargeables until they're already drained way too much.
So these are the trade offs.
And yes with the V3, there are no more washers to adjust for battery length or to prevent battery drain, also changing batteries is as simple as it gets. On the other hand no more exposed battery like with the V2...
Thanks for the comments...
To the questions. Yes you can put in PROTECTED rechargeable 123s 3.6V (or 3V). The 3.6V gives you a bit extra brightness at max. However with a 3.6V the LED is really unefficient up there and dumps a lot of heat, besides it's only a bit brighter (perceived) but runtime is A LOT less.
If you set the light to full power and rotate it (starting from the point it starts diming), turning maybe 1/16th of a rotation should be plenty - you basically just turn it down a notch (with the smooth brightness contoll, a notch meaning where you can visibly tell a difference) - that should be enough. Brightness scales logarithmically so a bit less bright means A LOT LESS current and heat and A LOT MORE runtime.
Also if you use a 123, set it to max and don't hold it you'll notice the light gets very warm, especially the part with the engraving gets VERY HOT (a result of the good heat transfer using the copper core LED board). However the bars will be cooler, so keep your fingers on those if you pick up the light.
One more thing to consider in regards to rechargeables: This light is designed to completely deplete any battery you put in there. I think the boost chip will boost voltages from all the way down to 1.5 or 1.7V. This is needed so that we get full brightness with the primary lithiums - which drop more than 1V under full load if you pull 4+ watts out of them.
Now the rechargeables under load never drop that much, which means to get the same watts out of the battery the regulation chip needs to pull less current, since boost chips are rated by current, this allows for a bit higher max brightness). However the problem is that with this low voltage boost chip, the rechargeable 123s will be drainged to way below 2.8 or 2.5V (which is the recommended cut off) - and doing so will massively shorten their lifetime... (the V2 had a 2.5V cut off, but that made the light less bright for use with 123s). So when you use rechargeables charge them before they are depleted. Also the "replace battery" strobe probably won't happen with the rechargeables until they're already drained way too much.
So these are the trade offs.
And yes with the V3, there are no more washers to adjust for battery length or to prevent battery drain, also changing batteries is as simple as it gets. On the other hand no more exposed battery like with the V2...
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hivoltage
Enlightened
Thanks for that info....I think I will just stick to primaries. I am plenty happy with the Gatlight on them. 1 more question, where will we hear about the photo contest ? BTW, this is a very attractive and functional light. I just ordered me a custom holster for it. No Shelf Queen life for my Gatlight:twothumbs
mobile1
Flashlight Enthusiast
Ok for the competition here is what we can do.
Just email your photos to competition at Gatlight Dot com. Please send high resolution photos (you agree that they become public domain when sending them, so we can use them for anything - marketing, calendar, whatever). If you wanna enter more than one photo (recommended), send one photo per email (if the attachments per email are larger than 2MB). Also important please add your cpf name, regular name, address or contact info, phone no so if you win we have a way to contact you in case your email box is full, or pm is full etc. Of course if you can also post them on cpf for everyone else to enjoy (until we launch the competition)
The last competition photos are here www.competition.Lumencraft.net so you see what you're up against.
Oh and if we really like your photos we might send you a prototype of our next light which should be done in about 3 weeks to take photos...
Just email your photos to competition at Gatlight Dot com. Please send high resolution photos (you agree that they become public domain when sending them, so we can use them for anything - marketing, calendar, whatever). If you wanna enter more than one photo (recommended), send one photo per email (if the attachments per email are larger than 2MB). Also important please add your cpf name, regular name, address or contact info, phone no so if you win we have a way to contact you in case your email box is full, or pm is full etc. Of course if you can also post them on cpf for everyone else to enjoy (until we launch the competition)
The last competition photos are here www.competition.Lumencraft.net so you see what you're up against.
Oh and if we really like your photos we might send you a prototype of our next light which should be done in about 3 weeks to take photos...
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freewheelin'
Enlightened
I wanna be first on the list for the new light. PLEEEEASE. Where do I sign up?
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OK I don't have my light yet but I know it could be here at any day soon....
Sure I was waiting for your NEW LIGHT update .
SIGN ME IN for any project. :naughty: :twothumbs
Thank you for a NEW CONTEST ! I hope I get more votes
this time heheheheh
YOU guys are THE BEST ! :thumbsup:
Sure I was waiting for your NEW LIGHT update .
SIGN ME IN for any project. :naughty: :twothumbs
Thank you for a NEW CONTEST ! I hope I get more votes
this time heheheheh
YOU guys are THE BEST ! :thumbsup:
ArsMachina
Enlightened
Uhh, these V3's are bright, VERY bright !
I realised this yesterday night when I was outside in the dark with my new beauties...
By turning the Gats on I got blinded by the light coming out sidewards and also backwards of the optic - at least as long as you do not hold the light directly in front of your eyes or cover the light by your hand.
I thought it was time for a little mod, spun up my lathe and replaced the optic by a downturned MCR and a tiny UCL
Perhaps someone likes it
Jochen
I realised this yesterday night when I was outside in the dark with my new beauties...
By turning the Gats on I got blinded by the light coming out sidewards and also backwards of the optic - at least as long as you do not hold the light directly in front of your eyes or cover the light by your hand.
I thought it was time for a little mod, spun up my lathe and replaced the optic by a downturned MCR and a tiny UCL
Perhaps someone likes it
Jochen
mobile1
Flashlight Enthusiast
Very cool.... now the interesting thing would be beam shot comparison, stock optics vs. reflector... also with a reflector one would need a glass window in the front with ORings to keep the light submersible... the reasone why we've chosen to use the optics even though is about 10% less efficient than a top notch reflector...
Personally in "non pitch black situations" which in my case is mostly where I use the light, I like the illumination of the front... in pitch black situations however its a bit too bright... so I hold it so my hand covers the front...
Personally in "non pitch black situations" which in my case is mostly where I use the light, I like the illumination of the front... in pitch black situations however its a bit too bright... so I hold it so my hand covers the front...
Eric242
Flashlight Enthusiast
You just can´t leave it alone Jochen, can you? The McR reflector looks pretty good through the bars! Nice mod as usual. How does the original V3 compare to the mod?
Eric
Eric
ArsMachina
Enlightened
Hi Eric, I have to agree that I can hardly resist and that normally no new light survives more than 24h in my hands in it's original state
But modding Gats with reflectors is not really new by me, I just never before posted about it
Here you can see one of my V1 with a MCR, here with no glass lens in front, (and hex screws as well) I did already a long time ago:
Hm the difference of an original V3 to my one with MCR?
The MCR V3 has somewhat less throw but much more sidespill, what I expect not too bad for an EDC that is often used inside rooms.
Sure the light is no longer waterproof but as I never dive with my lights this does not bother me much.
I will post beamshots later when it became dark in Europe
Jochen
But modding Gats with reflectors is not really new by me, I just never before posted about it
Here you can see one of my V1 with a MCR, here with no glass lens in front, (and hex screws as well) I did already a long time ago:
Hm the difference of an original V3 to my one with MCR?
The MCR V3 has somewhat less throw but much more sidespill, what I expect not too bad for an EDC that is often used inside rooms.
Sure the light is no longer waterproof but as I never dive with my lights this does not bother me much.
I will post beamshots later when it became dark in Europe
Jochen
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