Not true. Mine is a bit too bluish for my taste. I had wanted something closer to what one would call milky or creamy white but I don't get that. But then again, some might argue that the tint on mine is pure white. Tint color really is very subjective from people to people. I wish mine has your tint color.
HDS Systems EDC #14
- Thread starter John_Galt
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
- Status
Not true. Mine is a bit too bluish for my taste. I had wanted something closer to what one would call milky or creamy white but I don't get that. But then again, some might argue that the tint on mine is pure white. Tint color really is very subjective from people to people. I wish mine has your tint color.
flashy bazook
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2007
- Messages
- 1,139
Does the rotary go from low to high in continuous steps? So can you get very fine differences in light output via the rotary control? Or are the steps rather large (so say from 1/4 to 1/2 kind of thing).
bondr006
Flashlight Enthusiast
There are 24 steps available to the Rotary, which is the same as available to the clicky. The rotary control starts at step 1 and in order goes all the way up to 24. Below is the chart of what the levels are.
the.Mtn.Man
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2008
- Messages
- 2,516
Also, it's discrete steps. It's not infinitely variable.
the.Mtn.Man
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2008
- Messages
- 2,516
I was just curious is all. I never thought it was something that would be easily noticeable in normal use. My high CRI Clicky, for instance, has a bright, white hotspot surrounded by a dimmer yellow band that transitions into a slightly bluish spill. Noticeable when hunting white walls but not in normal use.
There are numerous outdoor beamshots of the Rotary that show no rings in real world usage whatsoever.
Here are but two of those...
It's "amazing" what real life will do to a white wall ring...
Here are but two of those...
It's "amazing" what real life will do to a white wall ring...
bondr006
Flashlight Enthusiast
Here are a couple more....Both at 25ft on max output and running AW Protected RCR123's
Rotary at 25ft on max
T200 at 25ft on max
Rotary and Gerber Mini Covert
Rotary at 25ft on max
T200 at 25ft on max
Rotary and Gerber Mini Covert
This is true. Tint is subjective, and I would love a nice milky or creamy white, preferably warm. But they were advertised as cool white and I have to say that label fits.
The steps are discrete and not continuous. However these steps are very fine steps and barely perceivable, it is really a non issue in my opinion. Functionality wise it is just as useful as a continuous in my opinion.
the.Mtn.Man
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2008
- Messages
- 2,516
Yeah, I know. Like I said, my Clicky is technically "ringy" but I'd never know it if I didn't shine it at a white wall.
Today my rotary got a lot of use and I really appreciated the UI. I was putting my Xbox 360 back together (out of warranty, been hacking repairs myself for a while) and putting a warm MCE emitter in my TK30 (my 1st mod...). The late evening light through the windows along with the inside lighting was not adequate for most of the work (not enough light, shadows, etc.). The rotary allowed me to fine-tune the brightness instantly with one hand so that I could see my work adequately without washing it out. I was also showing someone how to change a setting on their phone using the buttons next to a shiny screen. I was able to fine tune the output instantly to light up the buttons without washing out the screen or having too much light reflect back. Adjusting the output was automatic. This was refreshing since I have found myself usually using the rotary in max output.
Also, my light had its first drop today, I was holding it in my mouth and dropped it, around 5 1/2 feet onto a hard wood floor. The light is so solid it sounded like a small hammer hit the floor and the light didn't skip a beat (I know its not concrete but still). The clicky interface was also useful. I found the fine tuning of the rotary interface efficient and automatic, but it was nice to go out into the garage and click-press-hold into max and light up everything to find a few tools.
Next on my list (hopefully around Christmas).... HDS Clicky 17670 all stainless steel, Will it happen?
Also, my light had its first drop today, I was holding it in my mouth and dropped it, around 5 1/2 feet onto a hard wood floor. The light is so solid it sounded like a small hammer hit the floor and the light didn't skip a beat (I know its not concrete but still). The clicky interface was also useful. I found the fine tuning of the rotary interface efficient and automatic, but it was nice to go out into the garage and click-press-hold into max and light up everything to find a few tools.
Next on my list (hopefully around Christmas).... HDS Clicky 17670 all stainless steel, Will it happen?
Even if it does happen, I am not biting. It would be too heavy for my liking.
Ya it would be heavy... but it would be tough as hell and have some great run times. I'm just worried that the price might be to high in comparison to HA aluminum.
kaichu dento
Flashaholic
This manner of sweeping through 23 discrete steps with barely noticeable changes allows for a much more user friendly light and something I really glad to know about.
StandardBattery
Flashlight Enthusiast
I agree the steps are fine, and infact because it is not truely variable, one would not expect the have a runtime penalty for the rotary as it is not adjusting the circuit as in other designs, it just a selector. The wasted power in these is curious.
On the other hand... I've simplified my life by just sticking a ZebraLight SC60w in my pocket. The HDS interface is still tops overall, but the simplicity, functionality, runtime, output, beam, size, weight, and anodizing of the ZebraLight has pretty easily allowed me to talk myself out of several newer HDS. Availability and pricing though has not helped HDS. Sometimes I miss the HDS interface and track down one of my NovaTacs, but I realize I've gained more than I've given up with the ZebraLight. Overall the SC60w is probably the best EDC light I've owned, when I take into account all factors including my usage, current carry system, and desire to recharge as infrequently as possible.
morelightnow
Enlightened
I have a hard time keeping up with this thread, so please excuse my question if it has been answered before. Did I read that newer clickys hold burst mode until battery voltage stepdown? I mean longer than ten seconds. If so, when did that change approximately?
The new model clicky and rotary have some changes regarding burst mode, I believe these changes occurred around January 2011 when the rotary was announced/released. I believe these changes to the UI affect all HDS models, i.e. all models have the same burst duration and same option menu. The new models step down after 40 seconds, instead of 10 seconds like older models. Additionally, the new models allow you to disable burst mode in the options menu, so if you disable burst the light won't step down after 40 seconds, but rather stay at the full 200 lumens (or whatever max output on that model happens to be). I have burst enabled because the step down is barely noticeable but does extend runtimes significantly. Also.... I think my rotary shipped with burst disabled and others reported the same (IIRC), not sure if this is still the case or if the clickys ship with burst disabled.
Last edited:
morelightnow
Enlightened
That probably means the high cri version does not have this feature. I was hoping it did. I would rarely use it, but would like to have the option anyway.
When he releases his new high CRI light, I expect it to have this feature.
Or are you talking about the previous high CRI clicky?
If you know where one is for sale, lots of people would like to know...they're hard to find.
--flatline
bondr006
Flashlight Enthusiast
As much as I love my new Rotary, there is one thing that bothers me. I like the tactical button I chose, but I wish my new light would stand for candle duty. Well, by accident I found a solution that works really well. I was putting some water in the bottle that my son takes to bed with him, and of course I was doing it in the dark by the light of my Rotary. Well, the cap to his water bottle was laying on the counter and I thought, what the heck. I put the Rotary tail down on the cap and it worked perfectly. So I went down stairs to the cupboard where I keep extra bottles and grabbed one of the caps, and now I have a tail standing tactical Rotary. As you can see in the pictures below, it has the inner flange in it and the Rotary sits in there just like it was made for it with the flange holding the light while letting the button sit down inside. Just as sturdy as can be with no wobble at all. Pictures below. Enjoy!
- Status
