HDS Systems EDC # 16

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BigBluefish

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I have a legacy Hi CRI and I don't recall it having a ring (haven't used it in a few months ...shame on me.)

If Henry isn't using the Cree Hi CRI XP-G, why then would the new Hi CRI have the dark ring some complain of on the rotary, if that's due to a reflector that was not optimized for Cree emitters? Do we know what Hi CRI emitter Henry is using? I'd think if it were an XP-G, he'd be getting a higher output.

I was waiting to get one of these, but I don't think it will offer me any additional brightness over my legacy 100 lm Hi CRI. Then again, absolute brightness isn't really the point with these lights, though, is it? No harm in having two Hi CRI Clickies, is there?

Are the new Hi CRI Clickie's LEDs the same color temp? I think the old ones were also 3700 -3800K, IIRC from the website.
 

thaugen

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"Are the new Hi CRI Clickie's LEDs the same color temp? I think the old ones were also 3700 -3800K, IIRC from the website."

Henry told me in an e-mail the new High CRI Clicky has a CCT of around 3700K.
 

TyJo

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The Cree High CRI XP-G does make a 90 CRI variant IIRC. Also I believe the reference to the ringy beam is how the XP-G can have a ring of decreased brightness outside of the corona with the current reflector. I don't think the ring comments are referring to past High CRI versions but rather the newest line using XP-G emitters. Personally, I didn't notice the rings/artifact when I got the light and only realized it after I read it in this thread. I wound't even classify it as a ring/artifact, it's very minor but there might be more severe cases out there.

Another thing to mention is the discussion of run times at the low mode. The low run-times referenced on the HDS site are using the 0.3 lumen setting. The HDS lights go down to 0.08 lumens.

EDIT (referencing post #133): Am I not allowed to link to the manufacturer, who this thread is about, who also pays for a banner ad on this forum? I understand linking to dealers and specific websites is not allowed, which I have made the mistake of doing in the past and still do occasionally, accidentally. However I do not understand why I cannot post a link so that members here can view the exact specifications of a new light, directly from the manufacturer's website, which would answer questions that have been asked in this thread. I have read the rules and I cannot understand what I have done wrong.
 
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calipsoii

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Henry told me in an e-mail the new High CRI Clicky has a CCT of around 3700K.

Nichia 119 most likely. Same size footprint as the XP-G. Is advertised as 3700k median CCT (though from experience, the ones I've received have ranged from almost 5000k down to 3000k). Not a bad little emitter so I hope that's the one he used. Until someone snaps a picture of it we won't know.
 

Filip

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Henry's reply:
"The CCT is roughly 3700K. We do not advertise a specific LED. Yes, we will update the Custom pages to allow a high CRI option soon.
Henry."

My e-mail:

"Hello (Henry),

Could you please tell me what LED is used in your High CRI flashlight and what its CCT is?
And secondly, is there a chance of custom built rotary using HCRI emitter?

Thank you"
 

cold

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So I'm keen to get a HDS light. I do have some questions:

- Presumably, in terms of dirt, salt, sand, water, grit exposure, I should prefer the clicky? Or is the rotary oringing in such a way it's not much of an issue?

- Across the range of brightness's - in particular low (say, ~10lm) - would HDS be in the top tier regarding circuit efficiency?

- Are there downsides to the sapphire option? Increased scratch resistance, but is there also an increase in risk of shattering big enough to have practical significance?

- I don't know much about LEDs anymore...(The Luxeon V isn't kind anymore?!), presumably the 200lm HDS has near the best?

- I notice there are differences in brightness from 100 to 200lm, is that due purely to differing LED efficiencies or are the higher rated output models putting more current through?


I'm looking at getting a 200lm sapphire windowed clicky or rotary, for use underground, on rivers and on cliffs, plus normal EDC.
 

dbleznak

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I know for a fact that the hi-cri emitter is NOT the nichia 119 because I requested it! Lol! He told me that the new hi-cri emitter is a Cree with a color temp of 3700k. I assume this is for both Clicky and rotary hi-cri lights. More pics to be posted soon. Thanks.
 

Shooter21

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So I'm keen to get a HDS light. I do have some questions:

- Presumably, in terms of dirt, salt, sand, water, grit exposure, I should prefer the clicky? Or is the rotary oringing in such a way it's not much of an issue?

- Across the range of brightness's - in particular low (say, ~10lm) - would HDS be in the top tier regarding circuit efficiency?

- Are there downsides to the sapphire option? Increased scratch resistance, but is there also an increase in risk of shattering big enough to have practical significance?

- I don't know much about LEDs anymore...(The Luxeon V isn't kind anymore?!), presumably the 200lm HDS has near the best?

- I notice there are differences in brightness from 100 to 200lm, is that due purely to differing LED efficiencies or are the higher rated output models putting more current through?


I'm looking at getting a 200lm sapphire windowed clicky or rotary, for use underground, on rivers and on cliffs, plus normal EDC.
id say a clicky would be a better choice since the rotary isn't user serviceable even though i haven't tested the rotary in sandy conditions. But it does fine in water. maybe some one else can chime in about your other questions.
 
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dbleznak

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Pics of my new hi-cri rotary with fenix pd-20 clip
47e07550-4abd-f658.jpg
47e07550-4ad3-03f9.jpg

Check out this video on YouTube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCWWyj1rH7s&feature=youtube_gdata_player
 

the.Mtn.Man

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Henry's reply:
"The CCT is roughly 3700K. We do not advertise a specific LED. Yes, we will update the Custom pages to allow a high CRI option soon.
Henry."

I'm telling you, the man doesn't know the meaning of the word "soon". Look for another announcement sometime in July promising that they'll be released within the month with an actual release in late-October.
 

slumber

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My wife just ordered me one (HCRI) this morning. Im hoping I like it. I have an Executive 170 that's awesome, but the tint is what worries me on the HCRI. I tried a Malkoff M61W and the amount of pink was literally nauseating. If this one turns me off like the Malkoff, I'm joining the "Not Gonna Buy Warm White" club.
 

nbp

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Kinda looks like an XP-E in the pic, but I'm no expert. Did they make XP-Es that would satisfy those requirements? I hate reading spec sheets for emitters.
 

nbp

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Both the XP-G and the XP-E (according to the spec sheet) are 3200-2600K in the 90CRI emitters. So it doesn't seem like it could be either of them.
 

Phil40000

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'So I'm keen to get a HDS light. I do have some questions:

- Presumably, in terms of dirt, salt, sand, water, grit exposure, I should prefer the clicky? Or is the rotary oringing in such a way it's not much of an issue?

- Across the range of brightness's - in particular low (say, ~10lm) - would HDS be in the top tier regarding circuit efficiency?

- Are there downsides to the sapphire option? Increased scratch resistance, but is there also an increase in risk of shattering big enough to have practical significance?

- I don't know much about LEDs anymore...(The Luxeon V isn't kind anymore?!), presumably the 200lm HDS has near the best?

- I notice there are differences in brightness from 100 to 200lm, is that due purely to differing LED efficiencies or are the higher rated output models putting more current through?


I'm looking at getting a 200lm sapphire windowed clicky or rotary, for use underground, on rivers and on cliffs, plus normal EDC.'​



I have a titanium bezel and the sapphire glass on my 170T, i ordered the sapphire glass as (seen this on other lights i own also) when looking at the standard glass there were some blotchy round marks on the glass. I presume these marks are something to do with the coating but anyways the sapphire does not have this issue. I am afraid i cannot report back on whether the glass is more fragile than the standard affair.
 
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eh4

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The glass lens should be virtually impregnable, and the sapphire lens should be considerably More so, both for abrasion and shock.
Not to mangle his statement, but Henry somewhere wrote that the sapphire lens was a throwback from an earlier design in which the lens was more vulnerable to being smashed. He indicated that the sapphire lens will let slightly Less lumens through and that the current design protects the high emission coated glass very well.
It was further stated that the center of the glass lens is the part that typically becomes scratched with rough use, and that this area passes the least amount of light.
The periphery of the lens is by far the most significant for light transmission and typically does not become scratched... unless you like to scrub mud off your lens with your shirt tail wrapped around a pointy stick or something.
Lights calibrated at his shop with a sapphire lens will have the same lumens and may have marginally shorter run times.
I hope that I've relayed all of that fairly accurately.

With all that said I still want a sapphire lens. I'll get it as a spare after I receive the light, and take the slightly lower lumens if/when I scratch up the glass enough to warrant replacing it.
 
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nbp

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Henry also stated that he didn't know why anyone would order the sapphire lens as there was no practical benefit to it, and it cost more. But since he had them, he offered them for people who wanted to be able to say that they had sapphire lenses in their lights. In my experience though, anyone that you want to tell about the lens in your flashlight is not going to care anyways. In short, it's not really worth it.
 
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