HDS Systems EDC # 19

[the0dore3524]

I use the Nitecore and Fenix ones...they have protection circuits plus the flashlight itself protects the battery from over-discharge so I don't think you need to worry about that much.

 

[indigon]

...Can anyone recommend the best performing? I just bought some nitecore nl166 with the i4 charger. And I will get a 18650 battery too but other questions is when to pull the batteries from the light and recharge to get max life and performance?

The Nitecore nl166 are very good rechargeable batteries to start with.. Here is an excerpt from the HDS site FAQ..
(The FAQ has a lot of good info if you haven't had a chance to read it yet..)

http://www.hdssystems.com/Content/LightFaq/ "Batteries"

We have designed our flashlights to prevent the battery from over-discharging. In other words, our design prevents sudden unexpected darkness.It would be dangerous to simply turn off the flashlight unexpectedly to prevent over-discharge. Instead, our flashlights reduce the output brightness as the battery is discharged. When the lowest brightness is reached, your flashlight will begin to blink about once a second. When your flashlight begins to blink, you should immediately find a safe place to change your battery, wait for the sun to come up or wait for rescue. Your light will continue blinking for an unspecified amount of time before the voltage reaches a critical level for the battery and your flashlight turns off to preserve the battery. You can turn your light back on again for another short burst of light as needed. Rechargeable lithium-ion batteries provide less emergency time than primary (non-rechargeable) batteries due to their lower internal resistance. That means that once your flashlight begins to step down to lower brightness levels as the battery is used up, the step-downs will occur more rapidly and you will have significantly less time before the light becomes very dim compared to primary batteries. So we recommend you immediately take action to reduce output and find a safe place to change your battery. In general, you are better off recharging a lithium-ion battery after less use and more often rather than after longer use and less often. So do not be afraid of swapping a lightly used battery for a fully charged battery.

 

[usdiver]

Thanks, that helps a lot. I spoke to Henry also and he explained some things.
I appreciate the help

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

HDS is dangerously living in the past. no innovation is the first steps toward extinction.

Henry has never been one to sell gimmicks. They're flashlights. How much "innovation" do we really need?

 

[usdiver]

Henry has never been one to sell gimmicks. They're flashlights. How much "innovation" do we really need?

With a due respect while I respect others opinions, the HDS tactical 250 has replaced ALL of my other lights including the Surefire E2DL Ultra. This thing goes everywhere for every situation and is bright enough, versatile enough for whatever you can put it through.

 

[Hondo]

other questions is when to pull the batteries from the light and recharge to get max life and performance?

On this part, in general, LiIon batteries last longest when not charged to the limit, and not fully discharged. In other words, if you pull your battery from the charger at 4.1 volts instead of letting it peak to 4.2 volts, and charge when it gets down to around 3.8 volts, you will still have about 75% of the total possible run time, but will get significantly more cycles.

Chevy only uses about 50% of the total LiIon battery capacity in the Volt. They can't advertise as much range as if they pushed the batteries closer to the extremes on each end, but they offer instead a 10 year guarantee on the battery pack in the car.

But then, a fresh RCR123 cost a little bit less than a Volt pack Your call how much you want to sweat it, I wouldn't worry too much when you peak/fully deplete one once in a while.

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

With a due respect while I respect others opinions, the HDS tactical 250 has replaced ALL of my other lights including the Surefire E2DL Ultra. This thing goes everywhere for every situation and is bright enough, versatile enough for whatever you can put it through.

That's how the Rotary is for me. Even with "only" 120 lumens of high CRI light, it's sufficiently bright for whatever I need, and the dial almost makes the presets redundant. It's a nearly perfect flashlight in my opinion.

 

[liteboy]

With a due respect while I respect others opinions, the HDS tactical 250 has replaced ALL of my other lights including the Surefire E2DL Ultra. This thing goes everywhere for every situation and is bright enough, versatile enough for whatever you can put it through.

Don't misunderstand me, My 200 lm rotary has been my daily user since bought it years ago, I remember waiting like 10 months to get it. I have three custom leather holsters made for it. It's an awesome light we enthusiasts all agree. But technology is constantly improving and anything that doesn't reiterate even if in the slightest degree, some time will become an antique. This is my gripe with HDS, or put another way, my FEAR, since I don't want HDS to become another out-of-business flashlight company.

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

Don't misunderstand me, My 200 lm rotary has been my daily user since bought it years ago, I remember waiting like 10 months to get it. I have three custom leather holsters made for it. It's an awesome light we enthusiasts all agree. But technology is constantly improving and anything that doesn't reiterate even if in the slightest degree, some time will become an antique. This is my gripe with HDS, or put another way, my FEAR, since I don't want HDS to become another out-of-business flashlight company.

In what way could HDS lights be meaningfully improved with more recent technological advancements? I mean other than "brighter" and "more efficient", where do you really expect Henry to take his designs?

 

[nbp]

I would like to program it with my phone vs the all clicks. Bluetooth communication is the next big step I see and these lights are perfect for it.

The 4Sevens Quark Smart was a step in this direction, as are the Lux RC engines in the Oveready lights.

 

[eraursls1984]

I would like to program it with my phone vs the all clicks. Bluetooth communication is the next big step I see and these lights are perfect for it.

The 4Sevens Quark Smart was a step in this direction, as are the Lux RC engines in the Oveready lights.

I love the idea of Bluetooth programming with an app on my phone, but not on an HDS. At least not until it's been worked out and there's no bugs. It would be nice to be able to switch from clicky to Rotary UI to tactical Rotary UI with an app.

 

[reppans]

Better low lumen efficiency, wider voltage tolerance (1-4.2v and single AA tube option), and less weight/bulk would bring it into #1 slot.....for me.

 

[archimedes]

I would like to program it with my phone vs the all clicks. Bluetooth communication is the next big step I see and these lights are perfect for it....

I wouldn't like having to rely on any external device for programming .... ( probably the main reason I don't have a B.O.S.S. )

 

[nbp]

Well it wouldn't necessarily have to be mutually exclusive. Perhaps you could program manually or with an app.

However, I think if you guys were to try it you would find it much more enjoyable than you might think. Despite it's other quirks, the ability to toggle modes on/off and switch between completely different UIs for different people or different needs on the Quark Smart is brilliant. Well executed BT functionality would bring HDS to the very pinnacle of programmability and flexibility.

I also used a friend's BOSS and being able to flash it with the modes you want is awesome.

I think you guys are underestimating its usefulness. I bet you guys use your smartphones for loads of things now you said a few years ago you had no use for.

 

[slumber]

I'm not sure that the technology exists for it, but at some point I'd like to see a durable, reliable touch interface that would eliminate the need for the click switch and Rotary dial. I realize there would be compromises such as use with gloves, but the idea of a light with zero moving parts appeals to me.

For now, I'd like to see 18650 tube'd lights capable of running 6 volts. I think this would allow for a decent increase in output since both primary and rechargeable power sources would easily be able to meet Henry's minimum runtime requirements.

 

[scout24]

I'll take a replacement head that's bigger, and geared towards throw, please. I picture a McG PR-T type head... The option to switch back and forth as needed would be nice.

 

[midget]

In what way could HDS lights be meaningfully improved with more recent technological advancements? I mean other than "brighter" and "more efficient", where do you really expect Henry to take his designs?

i just want a clip option on the rotary. is that too much to ask?



(not that clip adapter contraption thing -- i tried it, its awful)

 

[the0dore3524]

i just want a clip option on the rotary. is that too much to ask?



(not that clip adapter contraption thing -- i tried it, its awful)

Isn't there a clip for it already? Like the universal clip or something? Idk

 

[midget]

Isn't there a clip for it already? Like the universal clip or something? Idk

yes i bought that already for my 250L and was disappointed by the bulkiness and poor form factor of the design.

i like HDS as much as the next guy in these megathreads but the universal clip was a flop.

i sold my 250L rotary + clip at a large loss and am carrying my 325L clicky exclusively until a drilled and tapped rotary version exists.

 

[the0dore3524]

yes i bought that already for my 250L and was disappointed by the bulkiness and poor form factor of the design.

i like HDS as much as the next guy in these megathreads but the universal clip was a flop.

i sold my 250L rotary + clip at a large loss and am carrying my 325L clicky exclusively until a drilled and tapped rotary version exists.

Oh I see...should have sold it to me lol!