How is you Tri-V set up?

[scout24]

I haven't played with full power programming yet, I left slot 1 stock, but put slot 2 as follows:

1: Reflector- 3ma.
2: Flood- 3ma.
3: R&F- 25ma.
4: Reflector- 200ma.
5: Reflector- 500ma.
6: Aspheric- 800ma.

First two allow for nice light around the house in the dark, 3 covers brighter version of same, 4 and 5 covers most close range outdoors needs, and 6 for "what was that" outside with a bit of subtlety... I am getting the hang of the programming and loving it! Giving possible combinations and needs way too much thought... I love how easy it is to change your mind, start fresh, and play! I agree with Karl's comments about practicing opening the battery compartment and financially supporting the battery division of Surefire...

 

[run4jc]

....opening the battery compartment and financially supporting the battery division of Surefire...

I'm running IMRs in mine right now....anyone else?

 

[jslappa]

I also am running AW IMR's in mine. I've got 6 sets to cycle through. I also keep a couple hundred primaries around for their long run time and shelf life. It's just too damn fun cranking 3000 mAh through this little wonder light!

 

[run4jc]

I also am running AW IMR's in mine. I've got 6 sets to cycle through. I also keep a couple hundred primaries around for their long run time and shelf life. It's just too damn fun cranking 3000 mAh through this little wonder light!

Actually, you were my inspiration! I read your post a while back when you said you had all the IMRs (and some Surefires) waiting on the release of the light, so I ordered a couple of sets from Lighthound. I agree - it's fun firing this thing up on high!!

:devil:

 

[scout24]

Just set up a slot as a 007. Reflector only, 3ma, 15ma, 90ma, 250ma, 500ma, 1100ma... Just cuz... The more I play, the easier it gets. Dave, simply fantastic... :twothumbs I like your idea of a similar slot with all flood, going to try that next. I'd joke about the knob getting a workout, but...

 

[gtwace]

The Tri-V should be run on IMR cells, running it on primaries will be like running a sport car on low octane fuel. I got 4 sets of IMR and I change them pretty often to prevent over discharging them, it is pretty easy to over discharge on a 2A draw and multiple low settings if you are not careful while playing with it.

 

[run4jc]

The Tri-V should be run on IMR cells, running it on primaries will be like running a sport car on low octane fuel. I got 4 sets of IMR and I change them pretty often to prevent over discharging them, it is pretty easy to over discharge on a 2A draw and multiple low settings if you are not careful while playing with it.

Good info -thanks- I usually charge mine at around 3.6v. Probably charging them TOO early, but better safe...

 

[jslappa]

AW's IMR 16340 can be safely discharged down to 2.5V before negatively affecting cycles and capacity. To be safe, I recharge my IMR's when they reach 2.8V. I'm so glad that Dave gave us a battery voltage meter built right in. Now I don't have to try and figure out all kinds of math in my head about what brightness my light is on, and how long it's been on (while I am away from home and my meter).

But I don't use rechargeables in my EDC or my nightstand lights. I hope to one day soon start using the Tri-V as my EDC, and as soon as I master it's UI, I will. When that happens, I will switch to Primaries only for EDC use. Until then, I'll carry my JHanko D10 as my EDC, and my Tri-V as backup, loaded with IMR's!

 

[run4jc]

AW's IMR 16340 can be safely discharged down to 2.5V before negatively affecting cycles and capacity. To be safe, I recharge my IMR's when they reach 2.8V. I'm so glad that Dave gave us a battery voltage meter built right in. Now I don't have to try and figure out all kinds of math in my head about what brightness my light is on, and how long it's been on (while I am away from home and my meter).

But I don't use rechargeables in my EDC or my nightstand lights. I hope to one day soon start using the Tri-V as my EDC, and as soon as I master it's UI, I will. When that happens, I will switch to Primaries only for EDC use. Until then, I'll carry my JHanko D10 as my EDC, and my Tri-V as backup, loaded with IMR's!

Nothing but rechargeables for me - and AWs only. RCRs in everything except a couple of Surefires - and they have LiFeP04s in them. My Mac's EDC and the Tri-V are running IMRs - the 007 is running the AWs. Typically I'll run the Tri-V for about 30 minutes on various settings on an early morning dog walk (for the three mornings that I've had it!) Posted this elsewhere, but again, the IMRs are typically showing 4.2V on a voltmeter when fully charged - when I return from the walk they read about 3.7-3.8. Being overly cautious I realize, but that set is removed and put on the charger and a fresh set is inserted for the day. I carry my Tri-V in the Sherpa camera bag Dave mentioned in the first info post in my briefcase - use it when I need it during the day, then take it out for the walk the next morning - the cycle repeats. Prior to receiving the Tri-V I practiced the same general routine with my 007.

TMI, I know! The thing is, this has indeed quickly become my primary light. With a bead on the lanyard, it is so easy to switch 'modes' to make it into whichever light I want it to be - Jekyll or Hyde, if you will...:devil:

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[cnjl3]

My current selections are:
CS1 - default
CS2 - XRE 1000ma on the first slot with the other 5 slots set to 5ma (OFF)
CS3 - XPG from low to high using all six slots
CS4 - MCE from low to high (Miser Mode) with highest at 100ma

The above configurations have changed many times and will most likely morph into what ever I need.

run4jc - does PU6 match your voltmeter on your IMR's after your 30 min K9 run?

 

[run4jc]

run4jc - does PU6 match your voltmeter on your IMR's after your 30 min K9 run?

:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs

 

[run4jc]

A quick follow up/review. The Tri-V, in "dog walk" mode is my perfect solution for those early morning walks.

Programmed in slot 2:

1 - 3 - Reflector set for 50, 300 and 1000 mA. 1 is fine for most of the time, 2 gives me a bit more local area lighting - 3 just lights up the world. Amazing how much throw this floody little reflector has with the XPG!

4 - I love this one - flood and reflector and 1200mA. When I use reflector only, I angle it down to light the area in front of the pups and I - from about 4 feet beyond us and out it opens up into a huge wall of light - but 4 feet in remains dark. Clicking to level 4 and lighting up the MCE along with the spot is fantastic - it fills in the area right up to my feet and an amazing amount of spill out to the sides. And a really nice tint, too, with the 2 combined.

5 and 6 - spot at 500 and 2000 mA. Wow. Reach out and touch someone. this morning as I walked around the corner of a building, I flipped on the spot and there were 2 deer about 100 feet away at the edge of a field. They froze when the spot hit them and we 'regarded' each other for a few minutes - then my dogs went nuts and they scampered away. I would have seen them with any 'good' light, but the Tri-V spot lit them up perfectly!

Gonna make 2 changes - going to take 1 more slot for the reflector and crank it up a bit more - maybe 1500 - just for fun; reduce the output on the flood/reflector to 600-700 - the difference in output is minimal but it'll run cooler, and give only 1 slot to the spot, but run it at 1000. Yes, you can see a difference at 2000, but it is minimal - having 500 and 2000 is unnecessary.


That'll make it perfect! (for now...)

What a great tool! Thanks, Dave!

 

[easilyled]

....... and give only 1 slot to the spot, but run it at 1000. Yes, you can see a difference at 2000, but it is minimal - having 500 and 2000 is unnecessary .....

You mean much like the default setting at position 6? :nana:

Personally I think that all the default positions have been so cleverly worked out that no others are required.

I can see the fun & versatility in being able to play with them though.

 

[run4jc]

You mean much like the default setting at position 6? :nana:

Personally I think that all the default positions have been so cleverly worked out that no others are required.

I can see the fun & versatility in being able to play with them though.

Yup - back to default. Although the flood/reflector is 'different' and the 4 settings for reflector are different....but I agree, the default settings are terrific. When I return from the walk, it is quickly put back in the default setting in memory slot 1.


(Yay - this was my 1000th post!)

:nana:

 

[scout24]

Congrats! I have wandered back to default as well, but tweaked the first two down further for more around-the-house-in-the-dark use, 3 through 6 are great... Second slot is still a mock 007... I have played with a "reverse 007" setup which I like, 1100ma reflector on the first setting and descending down to 5ma on setting 6. Nice to have one click access to high brightness during the day, for instance. :thumbsup: I still can''t get over how easy it is to program and switch levels once you get the hang of it...

 

[Launch Mini]

Still playing around with mine,
Slot 1 - Default

Slot 2

P1 - Reflector 50ma
P2 - Reflector 200ma
P3 - Reflector 400ma
P4 - Reflector/Aspheric 1200
P5 - Reflector/Aspheric 2000
p6 - Reflector/Aspheric/Flood 3000

This is a fun set up. The XPG gets going, then a little oomph with XRE for the added throw.

Slots 3 & 4 are works in progress.

 

[jslappa]

Still have Data's default settings for CS1.

CS2 is still All 3 LED's at 1,10,100,1000,2000 and 3000. (IMR's only)

CS3 is (IMR's only)
P1 Asphere and Reflector @ 1mAh
P2 Asphere and Reflector @ 25mAh
P3 Asphere and Reflector @ 3000mAh
P4 Flood @ 2000mAh
P5 Reflector @ 1500mAh
P6 Asphere @ 2000mAh

I am shocked at the fact that P2 can reach the back of my yard at roughly 50 yards (150 ft). The reflector does a nice job of covering about 25yds to the left and 25yds to the right of the asphere. I would have never guessed that 25mAh could do that. Of course, P3 at 3000mAh is rediculous.

Still playing with CS4.

I also decided to put a green trit in the Tri-V's provided slot. I have an extra trit, and would like to get it mounted on the other side, even though half of it will be hidden below the reflector barrel. I don't suppose anyone has taken the head off their Tri-V yet, have they?

 

[cnjl3]

I was informed by Dave to "not" unscrew the head from the body of my SPY007 - so my advise is that you shouldn't try it, plus you would most likely void your warranty.
Trit's location?
Since the reflector and MCE hide one trit slot I will most likely try the switch knob solution like DaFabricata is using:

I like it! Is there enough room for the trit's in a "V" shape instead?

I also decided to put a green trit in the Tri-V's provided slot. I have an extra trit, and would like to get it mounted on the other side, even though half of it will be hidden below the reflector barrel. I don't suppose anyone has taken the head off their Tri-V yet, have they?

 

[run4jc]

I like DaFAB's setup, too, but went ahead and dropped a trit into the slot. It was easier than I thought initially - dropped it in, then used a plastic toothpick to put the Norland into the slot. Used my UV light to cure, and Voila!

Tri V on left - 007 on right...

 

[ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond]

I thought after finally having a working Tri-V for a few weeks I would share the combos I've come up with. (Edit - I've now changed most of my setup which is updated as of 3/11/2011) I don't think any of the settings push the envelope such that CR123 cells would not work but I mainly use IMRs as I LOVE playing with this light day and night.

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[FONT=&quot]CS1
Indoors
RF < 5mA (42 blinks)
F – 6mA
FR – 40mA
R - 250mA
R – 800mA
F – 350mA

CS2
General Use
F – 20mA
FR – 75mA
R – 225mA
R – 450mA
R – 1250mA
S – 1250mA

CS3
Camping Mode
F – 10mA
F – 75mA
FR – 200mA
FR – 500mA
R – 550mA
RS – 1250mA

CS4
Outdoor Walk
F – 30mA
FR – 250mA
FR – 800mA
R – 1000mA
RS – 1500mA
S – 1500mA[/FONT]

If it's not obvious F = Flood, R = Reflector and S = Aspheric Spot

​