L3 Illumination L10 (XP-G2 R5 or Nichia 219, 1xAA) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS, VIDEO+

[selfbuilt]

Sry, i don't know how i overlooked that!

It's ok, there's a lot of text up there. :laughing:

 

[Mr Floppy]

How did I not realize selfbuilt never reviewed on of my favorites until now?

Me too, only just noticed it in his sig as the latest review, and what a review! Much of the stats stuff just went out my ear though. Although I like warm and Nichia 219 has no apparent tint that I can see, I really like this light for much more than just the emitter, flat regulation for a start.

I did some lumen calculations for my 219 based off your LD10 R4 review, wasn't too far off but not close. I think this is the new set of figures I'll use to calibrate my new set up should I even bother. It seems that most new lights eventually make it to your hands, and shows the recognition from the industry as to high quality and value of your reviews.

The run time on high is interesting. I calculated high based on the current draw and I should only get around an hour. Of course, what I realise now is that it is coulud be the resistance in my probes as the multi meter is in series and I take the reading with batteries fresh off the charger. In any case, I get 1.9A on eneloops but around 1.5A on anything else. To get 1 hour 23 minutes, it pretty much has draw to 1.5A, yet I can't see any sort of initial peak on your runtime graph? Could it be some sort of ramp up on eneloops or just my eneloops (gen 1)? It seems to hover around 1.8/1.9 for the first 30 seconds roughly (holding probe and compressing the foam is hard). I notice that with a depleted alkaline that it some times takes a couple of seconds for high to switch on.

In any case, to get the output out of the 219 on high, it'll need to put 500mA to 600mA to the LED (going by memory as I can't find the spec sheet) so safe to say the efficiency is good?

Selfbuilt, would you have an estimate of runtime of the Nichia 219 medium 30 lumen level with and eneloop 2000?
Short of running a test, is there a formula for something like this.
Thanks.

I'm getting 250mA from the battery tail cap measure, so it is pretty much as the runtime in the alkaline graph. Around 8 hours. Of course, nothing beats an actual runtime graph :wink:

Finally, you have the option of a range of anodized colors. Many lights remind me of the famous quote from Henry Ford - "any customer can have a car painted any colour that he wants so long as it is black."

It's a quote that has been perhaps misquoted. The original attributed quote is "you can paint it any color so long as it is black". The customer bit was somehow added. Then there is the issue as to whether he ever said it, as the model T came out with different colors before they were all apparently painted black to reduce costs. Old page from Henry Ford museum. http://www.hfmgv.org/exhibits/showroom/1908/model.t.html

 

[selfbuilt]

Of course, what I realise now is that it is coulud be the resistance in my probes as the multi meter is in series and I take the reading with batteries fresh off the charger. In any case, I get 1.9A on eneloops but around 1.5A on anything else. To get 1 hour 23 minutes, it pretty much has draw to 1.5A, yet I can't see any sort of initial peak on your runtime graph? Could it be some sort of ramp up on eneloops or just my eneloops (gen 1)? It seems to hover around 1.8/1.9 for the first 30 seconds roughly (holding probe and compressing the foam is hard).

Hard to say. I don't bother with tailcap current draws any more, as I know they are not accurate with my meters/cables. The fresh-off-the-charger could also be a factor. :shrug: But as you say, nothing beats an actual runtime ... it's hard to troubleshoot why an estimation method is not accurate.

It's a quote that has been perhaps misquoted. The original attributed quote is "you can paint it any color so long as it is black". The customer bit was somehow added. Then there is the issue as to whether he ever said it, as the model T came out with different colors before they were all apparently painted black to reduce costs. Old page from Henry Ford museum. http://www.hfmgv.org/exhibits/showroom/1908/model.t.html

He added it himself. I took the quote wording from wikiquote.org, which links to the full text of his autobiography (which is a verifiable source). He wis referring to his own recollection of what he had said at the time, so it is of course possible he misquoted himself. ...

 

[reppans]

Thanks, good comparison. Of course, the L10 Firefly level is lower than my various Quark or Eagletac D25x-series lights, so the effect could still be due to the ultra-lo level here (as opposed to being solely manufacturer-specific).

Yes, agreed but I thought it was important to establish some consistency among the "brighter" sub-lumen mode manufacturers since the following general statements indicates high variability among most sub-lumen lights.

....One question that comes up in a lot of my reviews is the consistency of <1 lumen Moonlight/Firefly modes. I have long argued that these are highly variable between samples of the same model (unlike >1 lumen levels, which are very consistent between samples)....

....Clearly, there is a HUGE variability in the Firefly output levels among these samples – as I believe there are on all lights with <1 lumen modes...

But to the point on ultra-lows and manufacturer consistency, here are the Thrunite T10s (probably the L10s closest competitor) which I have on hand and they're rated the same 0.09lm/147hr as the L10, although I meter the T10s as accurate. (BTW, I promise I am not cherry picking - the QAAX, D25A, and T10 are the only models I have 3 or more copies of and I am displaying all of them.)

I know I have repeatedly raised the sub-lumen variability question with you, but I just don't see it, and I've had over 2 dozen (across 4 models) pass through my hands, but perhaps it's because I do not repeat purchase lights with <0.09 lm lows. What really confounds me and started these questions are the late model Zebralight lights (ie 52 series). They're supposed to have among the brightest 0.34 lumen moonlight modes, but mine meters (see pix above) at ~ 1/5th of the equivalent QAAX spec (although it probably explains how ZL claims 3x the runtime of the QAAX and D25AX). I believe you metered both the QAA2X and SC52 0.3 mode as having the same output?

Sorry to belabor the point, but I use "bright" sub-lumen modes more than any other and just find that manufacturer spec exaggeration, or huge sample variability, in the 300%+ "off" range to be..... disappointing. No offense to the L10, I love my 3-mode N219 - gorgeous beam, super efficient, superb value, and with SB's "corn pad" idea, good for long-term use.

 

[TweakMDS]

Love the review again. Thank your for that and for keeping up the scientific approach! I hope you will at least be rewarded by getting to keep this nice set

I have a soft spot for single AA/AAA/CR123 lights, so this one has immediately been an interesting one, especially the Nichia 219 option (and - to be frank - only that one).
However, to me it falls a bit in the middle between twisty AAA keychain lights, and full fledged EDC AA's with a clicky and pocket clip, such as the Eagletac D25A. What I mean to say is that it's too big to be a keychain light (for most) but it also lacks a pocket clip to chain it to the inside of my jacket.

With that, a light like this is immediately battling a few other very interesting lights for pocket space, like the Eagletac D25A Clicky Ti, Zebralight SC52, Spark SG3 and the Olight S15-Ti. Apart from price and weight, it's not winning many of those battles.

But I do wish more manufacturers picked their modes as well as this light has them, and more of them used the Nichia 219. Maybe I can still get myself to pick up a few L10's, just because of the shiny colors and nice emitter

 

[MojaveMoon07]

Maybe I can still get myself to pick up a few L10's, just because of the shiny colors and nice emitter

I have the orange L10 219, and the orange is very handsome. Except for one speck, the color on the body looks brand new even though I have used this daily for the last two or three months. The color on the head, however, is about 50% gone.

With that, a light like this is immediately battling a few other very interesting lights for pocket space, like the Eagletac D25A Clicky Ti, Zebralight SC52, Spark SG3 and the Olight S15-Ti. Apart from price and weight, it's not winning many of those battles.

The S15 and the Spark SG3 and SG5 have mode memory. One of the reasons why the L10 219 is so useful to me is that it always starts on low. I would prefer it if no manufacturer ever used mode memory.

For my needs, there is an important difference between the L10 219 and the D25A and S15. For an every day carry, I don't want to own a AA flashlight that does not have (a) if not a setting of approx 50 lumens, then a setting of approx 30 lumens and (b) a low of between 1-3 lumens. For me the lumens at (a) and (b) are so useful in my daily routines that they are my most used levels of brightness.

Using selfbuilt's measurements in his (review) of the D25A2, the first group starts at 8.9 lumens and then jumps to 90 lumens while the second group starts at 0.2 lumens and then jumps to 65 lumens. In his (review) of the S15, the S15 starts at 0.12 lumens, jumps to 8.4 lumens, and then jumps again to 110 lumens.

Regarding the SC52, I'm discouraged by how many people here have had a green tinted $ 64 SC52w. In complete honesty, I don't think I've seen even one testimony about something off about the tint of the L10 219; this $ 25 flashlight seems so far to have had 100% consistency in the tint among every customer that has posted on this forum and another. My family owns flashlights in the $ 60-something range; between now and when I joined this forum, I still regard $ 60-something as a premium-priced flashlight. By that I mean I have high expectations which is why I regard the SC52 tint lottery as not just disappointing but very disappointing.

What I mean to say is that it's too big to be a keychain light (for most) but it also lacks a pocket clip to chain it to the inside of my jacket.

There is a flashlight holster that I have that I think is perfect for this size AA flashlight and for AAA flashlights. At batteryjunction.com , search for "Ultrafire holster" and you'll find a result for a "UltraFire Belt Clip Flashlight Holster - fits Olight T10 & T15 and similar small lights". It seems well made, it's light, has a wide sturdy belt loop on the back of the holster, has a loop at the top as a second way to carry the holster, and is barely bigger than the L10 so there's no bulk created by carrying the L10 in it. What I'm offering is an imperfect solution to your situation, but because of the aspects of it that I listed it might make your situation manageable.

What I also like about the size of the L10 is that I can carry it in the side pouch of my Case Logic TBC-403 (I keep my cell phone in the main pouch) along with a Thrunite Ti2 and still have room for a third similar sized light.

On high the L10 219 projects light to the same distance that my 4sevens MiNi AAx2 XPG on high does when I have to take trash out to the dumpster in the alley at night behind our residence.

After daily use of the Ti2 and the L10 219, I see the AAA, a flashlight the size of the L10, and a full fledged EDC AA as three separate categories. These two fit my needs so well that a full fledged EDC AA is something that I turn to only for what for me are out of the ordinary situations that those two aren't right for.

On a misc. note, I can comfortably hold the L10 pinned under my chin against my chest if I need my hands free.

 

[doctordun]

On a side note, you can order a clip with the light for $1.50. It is not very robust, but works fine for me in my shirt pocket. The L10 is so light, that I hard know it's there. Oh and I love the Nichia 219.

 

[EngrPaul]

I have 5 Cree XP-G2 and 3 Nichia 219. All four-mode.

I have noticed a definite trend:
*The LED's on all Crees are off-center, but the beam is acceptable.
*The LED's on all Nichias are centered quite nicely.

I could see dirt on the emitter lenses of some of them with the naked eye. Under a microscope I discovered it's unmelted solder paste and is also smeared elsewhere around the base of the emitters. There are also small "curly fry" shavings of metal and white plastic adhered to the lens.

One of my samples had the front glass o-ring sticking up on the air on arrival. I could not tuck it in, so I had to pay to ship it back and wait for a replacement.

A variety of output flux on the lower two levels within each group. I expect this may be partly due to the Vf of the emitter, partly due to variations in the driver.

Gorgeous anodizing and an overall good value, especially the Nichia version which takes the advantage in beam spread and tint. I consider the pocket clips a must-have.

Thanks for the runtimes and the review.

 

[riccardo]

L3 Illumination L10 (XP-G2 R5 or Nichia 219, 1xAA) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS, V...

Pocket clip is a must have if you are ready to glue it in place with some epoxy... otherwise is too easy to come off to rely on it.

 

[doctordun]

Re: L3 Illumination L10 (XP-G2 R5 or Nichia 219, 1xAA) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS, V...

Pocket clip is a must have if you are ready to glue it in place with some epoxy... otherwise is too easy to come off to rely on it.

Actually I used what is called a removable glue dot under the clip and it isn't going anywhere. What is nice about the glue dot is that it is easily removable.

 

[riccardo]

L3 Illumination L10 (XP-G2 R5 or Nichia 219, 1xAA) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS, V...

I used epoxy, I like how il look and I can be sure it will not fall off even if pulled hard..

Was it so hard to design a reliable clip? A couple of small screws would have served well and would work alone as anti roll system even without clip installed.

This is to my mind the only defect of an almost perfect flashlight. Anyway nothing to worry..

 

[Mr Floppy]

*The LED's on all Nichias are centered quite nicely.

I have one L10 219 and one Xeno E03 219. Both LED's were off centre. The E03 was worse but both beams were fine. Well, the L10 was so slightly off you couldn't really tell without measuring it.

 

[rickypanecatyl]

Re: L3 Illumination L10 (XP-G2 R5 or Nichia 219, 1xAA) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS, V...

I wish they made an 18650 version!

+1

 

[Trident1]

Re: L3 Illumination L10 (XP-G2 R5 or Nichia 219, 1xAA) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS, V...

I have a bunch of the L10's all with 219. Great light and tint like all have mentioned. I'm always looking to use my 14500's in AA lights knowing the trade-offs. None of my AW or Keeppower 14500's fit for normal operation. Both too tall and the head only screws on 2/3 of the way. Making contact to turn on/off or switch modes is difficult. Has anybody found protected 14500's that work with this light?

 

[DaFABRICATA]

Re: L3 Illumination L10 (XP-G2 R5 or Nichia 219, 1xAA) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS, V...

I have a bunch of the L10's all with 219. Great light and tint like all have mentioned. I'm always looking to use my 14500's in AA lights knowing the trade-offs. None of my AW or Keeppower 14500's fit for normal operation. Both too tall and the head only screws on 2/3 of the way. Making contact to turn on/off or switch modes is difficult. Has anybody found protected 14500's that work with this light?

I too bought a bunch of these to give as gifts. I still have 3 for myself since some people didnt show up.
Using the Eagletac or AW 14500's I've had no problems and the amount of light on high is pretty cool!
One of them did get opened up so I can use the driver in another light. It's a stacked design with a small board on top of a larger one. I'll post pics of the driver later if anyone would like to see what it looks like.

 

[Mr Floppy]

Re: L3 Illumination L10 (XP-G2 R5 or Nichia 219, 1xAA) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS, V...

I'll post pics of the driver later if anyone would like to see what it looks like.

Yes please!

 

[selfbuilt]

Re: L3 Illumination L10 (XP-G2 R5 or Nichia 219, 1xAA) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS, V...

None of my AW or Keeppower 14500's fit for normal operation. Both too tall and the head only screws on 2/3 of the way. Making contact to turn on/off or switch modes is difficult. Has anybody found protected 14500's that work with this light?

Hmm, worked fine on my AW protected 14500 cells. Yes, they are a little taller than standard cells. But the lights still worked normally.

 

[Trident1]

Re: L3 Illumination L10 (XP-G2 R5 or Nichia 219, 1xAA) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMS, V...

Not sure why I have the problem. 2 AW's and 5 Keeppower's all a little on the long side for the lights. Regular AA's are perfect fit. Granted, AW's are closer to "good" fit, but head much harder to operate. Keeppowers noticeably longer and pretty much not usable on these lights.

 

[stevo250]

I was going to try kinko imr button top 14500 cells in mine soon. Much shorter and still button top so should work I think. Just gotta be careful on heat buildup in such a small light

 

[tallboybass]

Any chance of run time chart on 14500?