Malkoff M60 MC-E

[recDNA]

I've been saving for an MD2 with MC-E but after watching Gman's video (Thanks) I'm waivering. It's a lot of money and it really didn't light up the yard as brightly as I thought it would.

 

[MrGman]

I've been saving for an MD2 with MC-E but after watching Gman's video (Thanks) I'm waivering. It's a lot of money and it really didn't light up the yard as brightly as I thought it would.

Ahhhhhh but you just don't see the light. To see it in real life, it lit up the entire yard far more evenly, it is easier to see and make out all targets without washout. Some times too much contrast is not a good thing. the camera cannot handle the range of contrast that the human eye can see. It was far eaiser for me to see everything and make them out then what the video could every portray. But the human eye adjusted to the dark and seeing "softer light" in most of the area would get wash out or saturation in the area of those tight hot spot beams, so that seeing those far targets with too much light when everything else was dim also became a problem.

I really liked the Malkoff MCE warm, the incandescent SureFire P91 lamp and the only other light that I really liked to just light it all up was the 1700 lumen triple p7. It basically lit everything up so again it was easy to see without really high contrast and wash out of the bright areas.

If you can't have high power to light it all up then some balance of throw is good. but you can't say that the 500 lumen MCE cool white didn't light it all up based on the video because I could in fact see it all at turn on in a quick glance without having to wait for adjustments. Its just much easier on these not so young eyes to make it all out more quickly with soft flood that with high power hot spots.

Yeah, its easier to see the 3 guys on the back fence with just a spot light on them if that's all you need to see, but it never is. Like you said yourself the EagleTac T10C2 did very well in that group because it has a smooth transition from hot spot to spill.

Unfortunately there is no other way to share all these lights with a mass audience other than to make videos. Only the select few who can afford the pizza and bourbon are invited to the secret backyard O truth. G.

 

[brightnorm]

Deleted
BN

 

[recDNA]

If I can get BC to send me his triple P7 I have the yard, the booze, the pizza, and real live critters to scare instead of targets!

The Triple P7 ruined all the others.

Video is much more revealing than beamshots...nice job.

Honestly, I intend to use the Malkoff MC-E INDOORS so it's unfair for me to make judgements based on the Yard of Truth. I'm sure it TOTALLY lights up a room. The Triple P7 would just burn holes in walls.

 

[brightnorm]

...Honestly, I intend to use the Malkoff MC-E INDOORS so it's unfair for me to make judgements based on the Yard of Truth. I'm sure it TOTALLY lights up a room. The Triple P7 would just burn holes in walls.

As long as the room is dark you will be surprised and impressed. The "beam" (or lack of it) is truly unique in my experience. I have to qualify that because I have never seen any other non-reflectored Mce's

Brightnorm

 

[oregonshooter]

MrGman,
Thanks for the videos, they help a lot! I know what you mean about the flood not coming through on the video well.

Looking at your targets I'm guessing you are a shooter as I am and hope you can give me a nudge in the right direction. I'm looking to replace my 6P/P60 bulb which is primarily used in conjunction with my handgun and to ID threats.

I had a MilkySpit Floodmaster for a while and loved the flood beam but not the LED white light. I'm an INC guy, but actually prefer the Malkoff "Warm" bulb now that I have used one (M60WLL). If I could have a warm tinted flood with enough throw to see the following I would be happy. Even happier if I could get a McC2S, but that's not an option I guess.

So which would you recommend between M60W/M60WF/M60W-MCE to:

1. ID what is in the hands of a someone at 15 yards (gun or cellphone)
2. ID bodies moving in shadows at 50-75 yards
3. Be able to use inside a house without splash back blinding me (not talking about hitting a white wall direct, but splash off sides when aiming down hallway)

Priority is range w/ flood, range with good spill, not blinding in a house. Runtime is not an issue.

PS. I don't want to do the beam shaper thing as this is my EDC 6P light I'm talking about.
PPS. Unless the MCE is a huge step over the M60WF and needed to accomplish the above, I'd rather not spend x3 for a little extra range.

Thanks

 

[PoliceScannerMan]

MrGman,

So which would you recommend between M60W/M60WF/M60W-MCE to:

1. ID what is in the hands of a someone at 15 yards (gun or cellphone)
2. ID bodies moving in shadows at 50-75 yards
3. Be able to use inside a house without splash back blinding me (not talking about hitting a white wall direct, but splash off sides when aiming down hallway)

Priority is range w/ flood, range with good spill, not blinding in a house. Runtime is not an issue.

I am no expert, but I do CCW, and I have the same issues...

For the above it sounds like a M60W would suit your needs best.

All of the above will be pretty damn bright in a house at close quarters, with the MCE leading the pack.

For #1 the MCE would work, but the M60W would probably be best.

For #2 the MCE would work, but again not as good as the M60W, just the sheer lumens of the MCE would put the beam out there, but not near as good as the M60W.

IMO, the M60 optic does a fine job of flood while having excellent throw. Just like Gene says on his site, the 8 degree optic has the best balance of flood and throw. :twothumbs

Good luck, I bet you end up with all three. :devil:

 

[oregonshooter]

Thanks PSM,
I'll start with the M60W and see how many other variations I need as I go then.

 

[Bullzeyebill]

You might consider a Malkoff M60 then purchase a SF F23 medium beamshaper. I am using one on my M30 and it is awesome, but not too difffused, or wide angle, with a hit of hotspot, sort of like the KL4, but with no tunnel beam shape. Beamshaper is not bulky like the FM34.

Bill

 

[oregonshooter]

I'm planning on using a beam shaper for my shotgun/carbines but for EDC my holster is a bezel down so a shaper is no-go.

I just bought an Assembled McE2S FLAT LOTC two stage switch and Classic Contact PCB from the Shoppe so I'm hoping to be able to make an McC2S with those parts eventually. Not sure if it can be done outright but I figured I better jump on the parts as they are no longer being sold.

An M60W with McC2S will be a nice EDC setup I'm thinking.

 

[MrGman]

The short answer is the MCE-Warm its beautiful all around light. Its not too much in a house, because its a soft flood its just doesn't come back and give you glare. Just think of it as turning on a 50 watt hallway light above your head in your house. You don't say I am not going to turn that light on because it will have to make glare or it will be to bright. We turn on the lights in our house at night and in most cases put out over 1000 lumens per room (Thats a standard 100 watt bulb) Having 400 to 500 lumens to direct downrange and not put on yourself is great. I have 21 plus lights that I have evaluated. I carry the MCE-warm in my pocket in the MD2. Although there is nothing wrong with any of those others M60 series. G

 

[oregonshooter]

Sounds like the best combo would be an MCE with a 10% hotspot that could throw to 50 yards . oh, with 2 stage push through twisty like the SF a2 please!

 

[Kestrel]

I just bought an Assembled McE2S FLAT LOTC two stage switch and Classic Contact PCB from the Shoppe so I'm hoping to be able to make an McC2S with those parts eventually. Not sure if it can be done outright but I figured I better jump on the parts as they are no longer being sold.

Sounds like the best combo would be an MCE with a 10% hotspot that could throw to 50 yards . oh, with 2 stage push through twisty like the SF a2 please!

Just a heads-up, I love my McC/E2S's, but I don't know if the MC-E would function with the resistor being inline (low). I'm not very familiar with the MC-E itself, but doesn't it cut out completely at a reduced voltage?
(I know you were talking about combining the M60 with your McC2S, but I thought I might want to mention that there could be an issue with this combo).

 

[oregonshooter]

Thanks Kestrel. I think PoliceScannerMan just did this without issues. Might be in this thread, I read it somewhere recently.

Like you said, I'm gonna try it with the M60W so its not an issue for me.

 

[Kestrel]

That's cool, you folks follow this thread better than I. Just wanted to mention it just in case.

BTW FWIW, 60 ohms yields ~20 lumens for the M60, while my 'Milky' 120 ohm McC2S is ~10 lumens. Going to do 240 ohm & 500 ohm boards when I get around to it... ;-)

Enjoy,
K

 

[PoliceScannerMan]

Thanks Kestrel. I think PoliceScannerMan just did this without issues. Might be in this thread, I read it somewhere recently.

Like you said, I'm gonna try it with the M60W so its not an issue for me.

The Mc2CS with 60 Ohm works on every Malkoff I own. MCE/M60WLF/M60WL/M60. Havent tried it on my new M30 though....

 

[oregonshooter]

PSM,

What do you figure is the output with the 60ohm on the MCE?

 

[dirtech]

I've been saving for an MD2 with MC-E but after watching Gman's video (Thanks) I'm waivering. It's a lot of money and it really didn't light up the yard as brightly as I thought it would.

I have had the mce warm for a few days now. It is the most useful light I now own. It just lights up everything within a short range with not much throw, but the more I use my modern lights the more I realize for me a useful light doesn't need much throw. I use it mostly on low with a md2 host with two stage ring and occasionaly go with full out put. With most lights that hot spot blinds me a bit. Not so with the M60 mce warm. It's a friendly wall of warm light to the user that turns night into day. I'm very impressed and I consider it money well spent. I love the tint so much I want to sell the M60 and get a warm version because throw is useful as well sometimes. Right now use a L2 with a dereeelight q3 5a for throw in conjunction with the warm mce when Im wandering around at night. Its a great combo for spotting deer, foxes and skunks and whatever is out there in the murky/misty coast side night.

 

[PoliceScannerMan]

PSM,

What do you figure is the output with the 60ohm on the MCE?

Hmmm, maybe 20-30 lumens? Just a guess.

 

[oregonshooter]

The Shoppe hooked me up with (2) McC2S switches and 60ohm resisters for my "Ultimate EDC" light in the picture below. I'm guessing the low is closer to 30lum than 40lum, but definately higher than 20lum when compared to my 40lum AAx2 Streamlight.

The low is perfect for lighting stuff up at night and not blinding myself. I rarely use the high except to show off. The high mode looks the same output wise as my TLR-1 but has more throw and the yellow tint (not as yellow as my M60WLL is) keeps colors "real" which is what drew me to the Malkoff over INC lights.

I think I hear the M60W MCE calling my name!!!

I've added an extended button and a delrin ring for use with a handgun using the "Graham method" along with an o-ring to keep the cap from spinning. PS. "it tail stands now."

Sorry for the crappy iPhone pic, all I had.