Post your Nichia 219 4500k beamshots

[^Gurthang]

Re: Post your Nichia 219 beamshots

Anyone got a LF HiCRI XPG drop-in? Love to see a comparison between it & the 219. I'm waiting for my order from Craig so I can build several 219 P60 mules [hint hint Craig!]

 

[CarpentryHero]

Re: Post your Nichia 219 beamshots

Love the Mules, wish I had more than the one
HDS hi cri is the warmer one in this pic

The McGismo Mule is really a beauty for tint

Looking forward to seeing what this emitter can do for my Surefire's that are currently not in rotation.

 

[Harry999]

Re: Post your Nichia 219 beamshots

I will be ordering at least one.
Any special run Malkoff gets the nod from Sgt.

I will start with the 219 LLL and decide if I want to buy the entire 219 line.
I may swap out all my M61's for them

I've gone for the M31 and M31L at the moment but once I have them and if they are as good as as my initial impression of them is then I will be contacting Craig to get the M61 219 and possible the other versions as well for my Surefires.

I've also asked Vinh to build me a Solarforce host around this led based around the 18650 cell and a second Solarforce host based around the 2xAA battery format - I love the idea of a three mode 2xAA emergency light with a Nichia 219 led.

 

[ICUDoc]

Re: Post your Nichia 219 beamshots

An amazing difference seems apparent between beamshots in posts #3, #10 and #22- the Nichia 219 looks dramatically warmer than the 119 (surprising), but much LESS warm than the Hi-CRI XP-G (less surprising). So the119 must make the Hi-CRI XP-G look very very yellow/orange indeed.
EDIT: I was wrong, a sample of Don's 119s were measured at about 5000CCT (http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?298253-Nichia-High-CRI-119-LED) so maybe they are from a different bin...

 

[arek98]

Re: Post your Nichia 219 beamshots

An amazing difference seems apparent between beamshots in posts #3, #10 and #22- the Nichia 219 looks dramatically warmer than the 119 (surprising), but much LESS warm than the Hi-CRI XP-G (less surprising). So the119 must make the Hi-CRI XP-G look very very yellow/orange indeed.
EDIT: I was wrong, a sample of Don's 119s were measured at about 5000CCT (http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?298253-Nichia-High-CRI-119-LED) so maybe they are from a different bin...

Hmm, post #22 shows only HDS hi CRI and Mule, no 219 4500K there.
Post #3 has warm tinted 219 (may be as low as 3000K) and McGizmo (presumably 4500k)
Post #10, Nichia 219 4500K is the "white" one in the picture.
I don't think you can get 119 in 5500K. I believe Nichia high CRI go only up to 4500K, but I may be wrong.

 

[Th232]

Re: Post your Nichia 219 beamshots

Don's label says his are sw45, but given the size of Nichia's tint bins (500K increments), I think it's quite possible that he got LEDs on the higher side of that, so around 5000K sounds believable. 5500K, less so.

 

[ICUDoc]

Re: Post your Nichia 219 beamshots

Hmm, post #22 shows only HDS hi CRI and Mule, no 219 4500K there.
Post #3 has warm tinted 219 (may be as low as 3000K) and McGizmo (presumably 4500k)
Post #10, Nichia 219 4500K is the "white" one in the picture.
I don't think you can get 119 in 5500K. I believe Nichia high CRI go only up to 4500K, but I may be wrong.

Thanks arek98- I was wrong(-er!) again! So in fact, whilst the thread is titled "post your 419 4500K beamshots", most of them aren't! My bad...

 

[calipsoii]

Re: Post your Nichia 219 beamshots

This beamshot thread has a disturbing lack of beamshots!

Click this picture to watch me mod my beloved D10 Tribute with a Nichia 219:


Or if you're just here for the results:

D10 Cool White -- D10 219 -- Haiku 119 -- Cree 85CRI XPG

Control shot (flourescent lighting)

Cool White D10

85CRI Cree XP-G

Haiku HCRI Nichia 119

D10 HCRI Nichia 219

 

[Derek Dean]

Re: Post your Nichia 219 beamshots

Okie dokie, I was fortunate to have one of the new Nichia NVSL 219 HiCRI LEDs (from the recent group buy) put into my NovaTac 120P. Up till now I've been using filters from the Lee Filter Swatch Book to get the tint right on my lights, but I thought it was time to see what all the hubbub was about with these HiCRI LEDs, and with a color temp of 4500K I felt these might have a chance of meeting my picky standards.

All photos shot with my Canon G10 in manual mode with the color balance locked to DAYLIGHT.

It's important to note that these we all shot with the NovaTac 120P on MAX output. I've noticed that at lower levels there is a bit of a yellow/green tint, not horrible by any means, but I tend to like a bit more of a rosy tint, and since I rarely use max output I've got a feeling I'm going to end up using a slight magenta filter to clean up the tint at lower levels and live with a slightly pink tint when using full output.

In any case, I'm happy to see manufacturers stepping up to the plate and beginning to provide high quality LEDs. It's a big step in the right direction.

 

[recDNA]

Re: Post your Nichia 219 beamshots

Okie dokie, I was fortunate to have one of the new Nichia NVSL 219 HiCRI LEDs (from the recent group buy) put into my NovaTac 120P. Up till now I've been using filters from the Lee Filter Swatch Book to get the tint right on my lights, but I thought it was time to see what all the hubbub was about with these HiCRI LEDs, and with a color temp of 4500K I felt these might have a chance of meeting my picky standards.

All photos shot with my Canon G10 in manual mode with the color balance locked to DAYLIGHT.











It's important to note that these we all shot with the NovaTac 120P on MAX output. I've noticed that at lower levels there is a bit of a yellow/green tint, not horrible by any means, but I tend to like a bit more of a rosy tint, and since I rarely use max output I've got a feeling I'm going to end up using a slight magenta filter to clean up the tint at lower levels and live with a slightly pink tint when using full output.

In any case, I'm happy to see manufacturers stepping up to the plate and beginning to provide high quality LEDs. It's a big step in the right direction.

I was really anxious to try one of these in a Vinhnyugen drop in however the poor tint at levels I'd actually use (low and medium) and the absense of reflectors designed to focus the throw of these emitters due to the narrow boards kind of ruins it for me. It's too bad because these should throw better than XP-G and give daylight-like reflections.

More for you guys!

 

[wquiles]

Re: Post your Nichia 219 beamshots

This beamshot thread has a disturbing lack of beamshots!

Click this picture to watch me mod my beloved D10 Tribute with a Nichia 219:

Or if you're just here for the results:

D10 Cool White -- D10 219 -- Haiku 119 -- Cree 85CRI XPG

Control shot (flourescent lighting)

Cool White D10

85CRI Cree XP-G

Haiku HCRI Nichia 119

D10 HCRI Nichia 219

THANK you so much for the well done comparison - excellent!

Okie dokie, I was fortunate to have one of the new Nichia NVSL 219 HiCRI LEDs (from the recent group buy) put into my NovaTac 120P. Up till now I've been using filters from the Lee Filter Swatch Book to get the tint right on my lights, but I thought it was time to see what all the hubbub was about with these HiCRI LEDs, and with a color temp of 4500K I felt these might have a chance of meeting my picky standards.

All photos shot with my Canon G10 in manual mode with the color balance locked to DAYLIGHT.


It's important to note that these we all shot with the NovaTac 120P on MAX output. I've noticed that at lower levels there is a bit of a yellow/green tint, not horrible by any means, but I tend to like a bit more of a rosy tint, and since I rarely use max output I've got a feeling I'm going to end up using a slight magenta filter to clean up the tint at lower levels and live with a slightly pink tint when using full output.

In any case, I'm happy to see manufacturers stepping up to the plate and beginning to provide high quality LEDs. It's a big step in the right direction.

Same to you - great work. Thanks much

Will

 

[badtziscool]

Re: Post your Nichia 219 beamshots

Control shot (flourescent lighting)

Haiku HCRI Nichia 119

D10 HCRI Nichia 219

These are awesome pics! Thanks calipsoii. And great writeup on the D10 mod.

I can't tell, but it looks like the 119 has an ever so slightly better color rendition of oranges and yellows. Or is that because the 119 is in a haiku and has a stronger hotspot and is illuminating books 6, 7, and 8 more thus bringing its color out more. Either way, the 219 emitters are pretty awesome!

 

[calipsoii]

Re: Post your Nichia 219 beamshots

I can't tell, but it looks like the 119 has an ever so slightly better color rendition of oranges and yellows. Or is that because the 119 is in a haiku and has a stronger hotspot and is illuminating books 6, 7, and 8 more thus bringing its color out more. Either way, the 219 emitters are pretty awesome!

It doesn't help that after taking the pictures I realized the Eneloop in my D10 was dying and reducing output. A fresh one helped a lot. I'll try to post a Haiku/D10 comparison shot tonight with fresh batteries.

In terms of sheer color rendering, I'd say the Haiku 119 has a slight edge. The Haiku also has a much tighter hotspot than the D10. That's probably because the reflector is deeper and wider. The 219 die looks bigger to my eyes than the 119 die, but that could be an optical illusion caused by the gelatin on top. Either way the D10 is floodier than the Haiku by a good margin.

As for tint, in my samples, the 219 is noticeably cooler in temperature than the 119 in my Haiku. Side-by-side, it makes my Haiku beam look yellow. Fresh batteries made the tint difference even more pronounced. If I had to hazard a guess as to color temperatures, I'd say:
- Haiku 119: ~4350k
- D10 219: ~4800k

Overall I'm very happy with it. Nice even beam with good color rendering. A little floodier than I'd like. Surprisingly bright (even in a 1xAA light). Generates a lot of heat.

 

[Derek Dean]

Re: Post your Nichia 219 beamshots

I was really anxious to try one of these in a Vinhnyugen drop in however the poor tint at levels I'd actually use (low and medium) and the absense of reflectors designed to focus the throw of these emitters due to the narrow boards kind of ruins it for me. It's too bad because these should throw better than XP-G and give daylight-like reflections.

More for you guys!

Here are a few shots showing what I'm talking about (Canon G10 locked to DAYLIGHT, NovaTac 120P Max level about 150 lumens, Low level about 30 lumens):

Of course if you're using a PWM based light you shouldn't notice any difference. As you can see, it's not a huge tint shift, but it is noticeable if you're looking for it.

In any case, I'm finding that adding a 3/8 magenta filter is giving me a happy medium result:

 

[recDNA]

But if you have to use a filter it kind of defeats the purpose.

Will someone design a reflector especially fir this board and emitter to produce max throw?

 

[Brasso]

So are we to understand that the tint gets cooler as it gets brighter? That's unusual.

 

[Erzengel]

This is very common, if the light is fully current regulated. Many users report that the tint of the Zebralight SC600 gets more yellow on the lower levels, which is the inverted description of the same effect. Derek already wrote that You shouldn't experience this effect with a current controlled light.
The reason is, that the LED creates "white" light by mixing the blue light of the LED with the yellow phosphor. When You dim the light higher or lower You just change the blue amount of the light, it still has to travel through the same amount of yellow phosphor.

 

[wquiles]

Just finished converting my Sunwayman V10R Ti+ from the factory XM-L to a new Nichia 219. Time consuming, plus in order for things to align properly I had to made a custom centering ring for the LED - however, well worth the effort as I LOVE this beam/tint:

EDIT: Full conversion details here in this thread.


Will

 

[bansuri]

Just got my 4500K Nichia 219s from csshih, dropped one in my V10 ti.
Wow. Just beautiful. Got my work cut out for me re-modding my lights.

 

[tolkaze]

Going back to the shifting tint, i'm guessing it will be noticeable between say... a M61 and a M61LLL? I really want a good LED since I am getting sick of CREE tint shift at lower current