Post your Nichia 219 4500k beamshots

[Erzengel]

The Datasheets also provide information on the tint shift:
Nichia 219 Datasheet (page 13)
XP-G datasheet (page 7)
Then You come to the conclusion, that the coordiantes of the XP-G will increase about 0.007 on both axis. The coordinates of the Nichia 219 will increase on the x-axis and decrease on the y-axis.
If You look at the colored image of the coordiantes in this thread on binnings (just use colors and coordinates, ignore the bin codes on the image) You see that the x-axis ranges from blue (low) to yellow (high), while the y-axis ranges from red (low) to green (high).
If You combine all of this information You arrive at the conclusion, that the XP-G shifts to yellow/green at low currents, while the 219 shifts to yellow/red at lower currents.
On this charts You also see, that the tint of the XP-G shifts rather linear and parallel in both directions, while the tint of the Nichia shifts less on the red/green y-axis.

 

[jabe1]

No beamshots yet, but I just completed an emitter swap into a 1AA Quark Ti. The tint is fantastic, and the hotspot is slightly smaller.

To my old eyes it appears to be about 10% lower output, which the tint more than makes up for.

The swap was rudimentary once I was able to crack through the Loctite!

This LED is what these lights needed from the get-go. It'll now get alot more pocket time.
I'll try to get some decent shots later tonight, although my crap point and shoot rarely is cooperative.

 

[RI Chevy]

Going back to the shifting tint, i'm guessing it will be noticeable between say... a M61 and a M61LLL? I really want a good LED since I am getting sick of CREE tint shift at lower current

Funny you mentioned this. I just compared my Lumens Factory Warm XP-G HCRI 3 mode (3.6-13v) drop ins in 2 different lights. I use one with 3 CR-123's in a 9P, and the other in a single 18650 host. On high, the 3-CR123's put out a much brighter and "whiter" light output than the single 18650 light. The drop in states that it is a (3.6V-13V Regulated Input, Constant Output) LED. I am a little confused by this. The drop in with the single 18650 battery puts out a very, very warm tinted (peachy/orangy) light output. The 3-CR123 9P puts out a much whiter, brighter (only a slight bit of yellow) light output.

 

[wquiles]

Funny you mentioned this. I just compared my Lumens Factory Warm XP-G HCRI 3 mode (3.6-13v) drop ins in 2 different lights. I use one with 3 CR-123's in a 9P, and the other in a single 18650 host. On high, the 3-CR123's put out a much brighter and "whiter" light output than the single 18650 light. The drop in states that it is a (3.6V-13V Regulated Input, Constant Output) LED. I am a little confused by this. The drop in with the single 18650 battery puts out a very, very warm tinted (peachy/orangy) light output. The 3-CR123 9P puts out a much whiter, brighter (only a slight bit of yellow) light output.

The driver might be current regulated in a portion of that voltage range, but clearly the driver is NOT a constant current driver through the whole voltage range.

 

[tolkaze]

Thanks Erzengel, that is excellent information. I have been putting off an order until now, and now that I want to buy, a lot of the bits and pieces I wanted are now unavailable... arrgh. Will get LED's first and worry about current levels later

 

[ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond]

I just received a bunch of the Nichias this weekend and couldn't wait to mod up a few lights. I am a neutral lover and I have to admit that at first I was really turned off by the tint of the beam - until I spent a bunch more time with it. I slowly began to realize that the LED really illuminates the entire RGB spectrum nearly as well as a neutral XP-G without making everything creamy looking. It really appears to me like the illumination that comes from the sun through the window. Whites are so white while the colors are accurate.

This is a truly great LED and I look forward to modding a few more lights with this LED. So far I only did a few small low power lights, but I am interested to see how it does in a light with a bit more Ooomph.

 

[Sgt. LED]

These should be in the Ra

 

[bansuri]

These should be in the Ra

Going in my Twisty and Basic60 tomorrow night! Will post beamshots.

 

[THE_dAY]

Here are beamshots of an oil painting, the NVSL 219 is very close to McGizmo's NCSL 119.
In my sample you'll notice the 219 is a little whiter in tint than the 119, regardless both LEDs do an amazing job at color rendering:

Here is an XRE Q5 for reference:

 

[Sgt. LED]

Excellent
I have two to work on based on your report.

 

[HighLumens]

These should be in the Ra

I agree with you. Not only it would be whiter (less yellow) than the xp-g hi cri, it would be even about 15% brighter. What about a thread to gather everyone who is interested in a nichia 219 hds? Maybe we could show henry how welcomed would such a light be.

 

[Sgt. LED]

That's a great idea! Start it up, and link this thread for pics.

If he can source the bin Craig has and not the cheesy ones it'll be a clear winner.
Who knows, maybe he could ship them faster lol!

 

[ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond]

Well, I just finished two more mods and I am still impressed. I upgraded my HDS Rotary and Haiku. One thing I am noticing is that the apparent warmth of the LED is VERY dependent on the reflector in which is sits. The in the four lights I've modded (Preon, LF2XT, Haiku, HDS Rotary) the tint goes from very white (and I say white, not cool, because cool tints make me think of angry blue and barf green hues and this LED really is pure white) to a slight neutral. The Preon is a real flood light and the beam appears very white. The Haiku and HDS have the most concentrated spot beams and they appear more neutral - but more like 3x neutral (on the Cree chart) rather than a 5B/5C neutral.

I've done some comparisons of all beams against my defacto standard 5B/5C1 XP-G LED and I am definitely a fan. I would say that the light quality is well worth the loss of the ~30 lumens @350mA especially since I probably use 50 lumens or less most of the time. I would love to see some triples or quads made up with these LEDs.

 

[damn_hammer]

... I've modded (Preon, LF2XT, Haiku, HDS Rotary) the tint goes from very white (and I say white, not cool, because cool tints make me think of angry blue and barf green hues and this LED really is pure white) to a slight neutral. The Preon is a real flood light and the beam appears very white. The Haiku and HDS have the most concentrated spot beams and they appear more neutral - but more like 3x neutral (on the Cree chart) rather than a 5B/5C neutral. ...

That's the first I've heard of anyone being able to open the head on a Preon, and mod it. Congrats! Was it a Preon 0,1, or 2? Have a Preon 1 Ti that could definitely use this high CRI Nichia.

 

[eh4]

Going back to the shifting tint, i'm guessing it will be noticeable between say... a M61 and a M61LLL? I really want a good LED since I am getting sick of CREE tint shift at lower current

Can't you just use a "true current regulated" driver?
My eyes were swimming going over all of the drivers available. illuminationsupply has a variety.

 

[calipsoii]

Can't you just use a "true current regulated" driver?
My eyes were swimming going over all of the drivers available. illuminationsupply has a variety.

Tint shift happens when the current to the LED is fluctuated.

Using a current-controlled driver (as is so popular nowadays) will increase runtime slightly due the increased efficiency, but will cause tint shift at the low output levels.
Using a PWM controlled driver, which flashes the LED rapidly at 100% current, does not cause tint shift but may cause a nauseating flashing if the frequency is not set high enough.

McGizmo chose to use a "constant color" PWM driver in his HCRI offerings for precisely this reason. For an LED like the 219, it is my suggestion that anyone hoping to retain it's gorgeous color rendering and tint chooses a PWM driver with a very high frequency (1000hz+) over a current controlled one. The slight loss in runtime is worth it when purchasing an emitter solely for it's unique output properties.

 

[F250XLT]

Going in my Twisty and Basic60 tomorrow night! Will post beamshots.

Would love it if someone could put one of these in by B60LE

 

[csshih]

That's a great idea! Start it up, and link this thread for pics.

If he can source the bin Craig has and not the cheesy ones it'll be a clear winner.
Who knows, maybe he could ship them faster lol!

LOL, speaking of which. I spoke with Henry today.
He's still having production issues, but I'm thinking of a custom run in a month or so

Craig

 

[Sgt. LED]

Ahhhh Your current batch of emitters right!?

Make sure I'm on the list to get one. Couple of months is fine, longer and I'll forget I wanted one lol

 

[diesel79]

Nichia HDS sounds saweet. Thats no good that there are more production problems.