Ra Clicky (HDS Systems EDC) - Part 11

[chanjyj]

I'd imagine that they HDS would just take a light reading using an IS with the head assembled. I'm not sure. It's probably a lot more complicated than I imagine.

The point of taking a light reading is to get the output established. Now it won't be the correct one, so the light now has to be calibrated (eg, 172 lumens, calibrate electronics for it to go down to 170 lumens w/ longer battery life).

That is not possible with head assembled. Unless of course, you disassemble it after that, put it together and the ship it off.

 

[2bits]

Well, it's fine for me if it's a year. 2 years no. 1.5 years I dunno.
I don't have tons of cash to throw around (actually, I do have but I am rather thrifty )

Is this the new UI? https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3317559&postcount=28

"volume control" and "twist of the wrist". Sounds a lot like Jetbeam's control ring or some variation (the tailcap could be the spinning part, etc). Would be cool.

 

[Belstaff1464]

The point of taking a light reading is to get the output established. Now it won't be the correct one, so the light now has to be calibrated (eg, 172 lumens, calibrate electronics for it to go down to 170 lumens w/ longer battery life).

That is not possible with head assembled. Unless of course, you disassemble it after that, put it together and the ship it off.

So what you're saying is HDS take a reading w/head assembled, disassemble it and tweak the electronics, re-assemble and take another reading, and if necessary, repeat the process until output = stated max output? Man......no wonder Henry allows 2 weeks for a custom Clicky !!! I knew it was more complicated than I had imagined it.

 

[chanjyj]

So what you're saying is HDS take a reading w/head assembled, disassemble it and tweak the electronics, re-assemble and take another reading, and if necessary, repeat the process until output = stated max output? Man......no wonder Henry allows 2 weeks for a custom Clicky !!! I knew it was more complicated than I had imagined it.

That is why I have my doubts that the light is actually measured WITH the lens on. I believed the individual LED used in the torch is measured, but not when everything is assembled.

I do disagree with pjandyho here, but perhaps he has an authoritative source that I don't.

 

[nbp]

Posted by Kaichu Dento:
Maybe Goatee has more, but he doesn't rub our face in it. Oh well, I guess you really are destined for HDS greatness.

Didn't realize I was being so irritating. Sorry Pete.

 

[Bierkameel]

I just got the new Nitecore IFE1 and my Clicky 170T with throw reflector is brighter then the 260 lumens of the Nitecore
Also the more yellow color of the Clicky is much nicer then the white light of the Nitecore.

The idea was giving the Clicky some time off after a year in my pocket but I'm thinking about selling the Nitecore
I must say that the interface of the IFE1 is very nice.

 

[fnj]

You guys are making it more complicated than it has to be. You calibrate the light loss of a glass lens, and you calibrate the light loss of a sapphire lens. You only have to do this once; there will be no appreciable variation between samples of each. You write these two numbers down on day 1.

Then you calibrate each individual light's electronics on the bench, disassembled, taking account of the lens to be used for that individual light. Trim each one as necessary.

Assemble, and you're done.

 

[Hevy Lite]

Is this the new UI? http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...9&postcount=28

"volume control" and "twist of the wrist". Sounds a lot like Jetbeam's control ring or some variation (the tailcap could be the spinning part, etc). Would be cool.

Following the logic of these two statements: If the light had some "Volume Control" somewhere in the middle of the light either the overhand or underhand grip would allow movement with just the index finger and thumb moving the two halves relative to each other. Not really the "Twisty" action but direct electronic control over brightness with a small arc of movement compared to standard ring lights. Best of both worlds ie full clicky interface and slight turn to up or lower light levels.

A progressive rate of change matched to pressure and very little real movement would allow both sensitivity and speed!

 

[kaichu dento]

Didn't realize I was being so irritating. Sorry Pete.

Neither you or Goatee is ever irritating. You're both on my has-more-cool-lights-than-me list! :wave:

So, what's your take on the new UI?

Is this the new UI? http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...9&postcount=28



Following the logic of these two statements: If the light had some "Volume Control" somewhere in the middle of the light either the overhand or underhand grip would allow movement with just the index finger and thumb moving the two halves relative to each other. Not really the "Twisty" action but direct electronic control over brightness with a small arc of movement compared to standard ring lights. Best of both worlds ie full clicky interface and slight turn to up or lower light levels.

A progressive rate of change matched to pressure and very little real movement would allow both sensitivity and speed!

Another thing to ponder is that Henry said he's actually been carrying the new UI in his pocket on a daily basis.

 

[cave dave]

...
Do you notice any difference in weight? I thought Ti was like %30 lighter than steel so with the SS bezel being so much of the weight on my light I was thinking the Ti would in fact feel lighter, it will look nice to.....

The Ti and the Stainless look virtually the same.

Very little of the weight is in the bezel.
Stock SS bezel=10.52 grams
Ti bezel= 6.20 grams

 

[u238]

Neither you or Goatee is ever irritating. You're both on my has-more-cool-lights-than-me list! :wave:

So, what's your take on the new UI?

Another thing to ponder is that Henry said he's actually been carrying the new UI in his pocket on a daily basis.

Abduct Henry and make him demonstrate the UI on his prototype? :devil: I kid, I kid. I can't wait to see the new UI, and I don't even have an HDS light yet.

 

[Belstaff1464]

That is why I have my doubts that the light is actually measured WITH the lens on. I believed the individual LED used in the torch is measured, but not when everything is assembled.

I do disagree with pjandyho here, but perhaps he has an authoritative source that I don't.

I don't know about you, but I choose to believe HDS when they claim that the light has the stated max output OTF. Your statement is highly inflammatory and unless you have anything to back it up I suggest you retract your statement. Questioning a person's integrity should not be unless you can support it with facts. Reputations can be severely damaged by a few words. Be careful that you do not damage a man's hard-earned reputation. Just because one light was shipped sans lens does not instantly mean that the lights aren't calibrated with the lens on. You are entitled to your opinion of course, just as I am, but to express such a potentially damaging opinion in a public forum without hard facts to back it up, is just not on. :shakehead

I just got the new Nitecore IFE1 and my Clicky 170T with throw reflector is brighter then the 260 lumens of the Nitecore
Also the more yellow color of the Clicky is much nicer then the white light of the Nitecore.

The idea was giving the Clicky some time off after a year in my pocket but I'm thinking about selling the Nitecore
I must say that the interface of the IFE1 is very nice.

Not all lumens are created equal.......we all know that. Right ?

You guys are making it more complicated than it has to be. You calibrate the light loss of a glass lens, and you calibrate the light loss of a sapphire lens. You only have to do this once; there will be no appreciable variation between samples of each. You write these two numbers down on day 1.

Then you calibrate each individual light's electronics on the bench, disassembled, taking account of the lens to be used for that individual light. Trim each one as necessary.

Assemble, and you're done.

I like your suggestion better. This is much simpler and probably how it's done. The only thing I'll add is, the last step is to take a final measurement after the light has been fully assembled.

So, what's your take on the new UI?

Another thing to ponder is that Henry said he's actually been carrying the new UI in his pocket on a daily basis.

That's what makes me think that this is not the new UI. You would need a completely new light for this UI. I thought Henry was referring to a new UI for the Clicky.

 

[kaichu dento]

You would need a completely new light for this UI.

Bingo...

 

[Belstaff1464]

Bingo...

:twothumbs

 

[kaichu dento]

:twothumbs

Yeah, me too, but unfortunately, this...

...he suggested a year to a year and a half out.

I really do wish the time table was more like Christmas or so, but at least I've got an assortment of lights I really like to see me through.

 

[HorseFilms]

Completely random... We were at my friends' place tonight. After about 3 hours my best friend says "Okay, people have asked for Horse's flashlight four times tonight. It's time to stop giving him poop for having one." That light is the High CRI. Finally someone understands. :thumbsup:

 

[Belstaff1464]

Yeah, me too, but unfortunately, this...

I really do wish the time table was more like Christmas or so, but at least I've got an assortment of lights I really like to see me through.

That timetable suits me just fine.........I still gotta get an orange MD2, a Ti Clicky, probably another Zebralight, and maybe a camo Clicky

 

[nbp]

Neither you or Goatee is ever irritating. You're both on my has-more-cool-lights-than-me list! :wave:

So, what's your take on the new UI?

Another thing to ponder is that Henry said he's actually been carrying the new UI in his pocket on a daily basis.

Ha! I don't know about that, bro. You had a pretty incredible collection at one time. I'm not sure how much went out in the 'out of work sale'. Even still, I have it on good authority that someone has at least one SPY. I'd have to sell all my Ras for anything like that.

Personally, I think that the new UI is controlled by the mind of the user. Like an avatar. :huh:

 

[kaichu dento]

Ha! I don't know about that, bro. You had a pretty incredible collection at one time. I'm not sure how much went out in the 'out of work sale'. Even still, I have it on good authority that someone has at least one SPY. I'd have to sell all my Ras for anything like that.

Personally, I think that the new UI is controlled by the mind of the user. Like an avatar. :huh:

I've still got a few really cool lights, but when it comes to Ra, you've got hoards of them, or so I imagine, while I've only got one. But, I'm still happy!

 

[nbp]

I've still got a few really cool lights, but when it comes to Ra, you've got hoards of them, or so I imagine, while I've only got one. But, I'm still happy!

Hoards?!?! Hardly!
You just gotta watch the MP and jump on them when they pop up. Practice this one and this one

There's at least two models I'm still watching for, a 140 GT and a high CRI Twisty. I can't even start with the old HDSs, there's way too many models and I don't understand the name designations. But I'd like to have all the Ra style HDSs without duplicating them at some point. I may leave out the ones that are really similar, like a 140 narrow is just a less efficient 170. I have the 170, so I really don't need the other one, as the beam is the same. So at least I'm being sort of reasonable, in that they all should be somewhat different and useful. :devil:

You know this is all your fault, right Pete? I can find the posts for you back in part 8 or so where I posted some questions and you talked me into my first one. It's been all downhill from there.