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Recall of La Petitie Killer

billybright

Enlightened
Joined
Aug 4, 2004
Messages
887
Location
United Kingdom
Fred, mine arrived back in the UK today,and works perfect when turned on, but just one problem, to turn it off and stop it from flickering on my keychain I have to turn it back untill the head is almost past the Oring & out of thread.
I'm affraid I'll lose the head if I keep it on my keys :green:
 

blitzlicht65

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Joined
Aug 16, 2006
Messages
615
Location
Germany, near Stuttgart
Fred, mine arrived back in the UK today,and works perfect when turned on, but just one problem, to turn it off and stop it from flickering on my keychain I have to turn it back untill the head is almost past the Oring & out of thread.
I'm affraid I'll lose the head if I keep it on my keys :green:

The same here:crazy:.

But I've put a little bit spare-foam (from my CR2 Ion) into the battery tube, and now the Killer works perfect:grin2:.

No flickering and no battery rattle.:wave:


PICT1616.jpg
 

PhotonFanatic

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 17, 2003
Messages
2,338
Location
western Massachusetts
Fred, mine arrived back in the UK today,and works perfect when turned on, but just one problem, to turn it off and stop it from flickering on my keychain I have to turn it back untill the head is almost past the Oring & out of thread.
I'm affraid I'll lose the head if I keep it on my keys :green:

billybright,

It's possible that the solder blob might be a tad too tall. I certainly made sure that there was plenty of solder to prevent the top of the battery from contacting the head, but, in reality, the space can be minimal.

I'd suggest just rubbing the solder blob on some sandpaper, checking the height to ensure that the top of it is clear of the bottom of the head. Once adjusted, you will then be able to screw the two pieces much closer together and when unscrewed enough, the O-ring should not be showing at all.

A good half-turn while unscrewing will physically prevent the battery from making any contact that could cause flickering.
 
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billybright

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Joined
Aug 4, 2004
Messages
887
Location
United Kingdom
The solder blob looked fine but i took a little off anyway - but still the same problem :shrug:

It seems the movement of the light, combined with the battery moving in the body is causing the problem?

when just turning on & off everything is fine, but when actually in use and moving about on keys, thats when the flickering problem occurs
 

PhotonFanatic

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 17, 2003
Messages
2,338
Location
western Massachusetts
You are just not unscrewing the battery tube enough--make sure that you go at least four grooves of rotation to ensure that the battery can not make contact.

If you're still struggling with it after you try that, then send it back and let me take a look at it, please.
 

billybright

Enlightened
Joined
Aug 4, 2004
Messages
887
Location
United Kingdom
Fred, thats the real problem,to stop the flicker have to unscrew it until it nearly falls off!

I'll ship it tomorrow on its second journey home.

You are just not unscrewing the battery tube enough--make sure that you go at least four grooves of rotation to ensure that the battery can not make contact.

If you're still struggling with it after you try that, then send it back and let me take a look at it, please.
 

smokelaw1

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 23, 2006
Messages
1,282
Location
Switzerland
Got mine back today Fred...seems to be working as designed and envisioned. Love it! Hope all of the issues are behind us!
Thanks for getting it back to me so fast.
 

PhotonFanatic

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Joined
Dec 17, 2003
Messages
2,338
Location
western Massachusetts
The answer to the flickering problem is to install an O-ring in the bottom of the battery tube; in fact, what works best is the same O-ring that is just above the threads--it is a 1 x 9mm O-ring. So you can use it, or keep it as a spare.

Alternatively, a foam washer can be used, but those are messy with their adhesive, and tend to wear out rather quickly--the O-ring is much more robust and should last a long time.

I initially hesitated to include them with the light, since it does require a bit more pressure to turn the light on, but since so many seem to be having a problem with this, I will send out O-rings to everyone who already has a Killer.
 

smokelaw1

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 23, 2006
Messages
1,282
Location
Switzerland
Awesome. Thanks Fred. i have a very (VERY) slight and infrequent flicker, really not even a concern, but the oring fix seems so easy, thanks for sending one out.

On a side note, I was in my basement last night with none of my usual EDC on me (no ARC AAA, no LOD, no Wee 80, and no PD-S "after work edc"). All I had on were my workout shorts and a new Ti necklace with the killer on it. Then, with only this newest light on me....the lights went out. I was in the room in the basement furthest from the stairs, and had a moment of panic as I patted my pants and realized I didn't have my lights. Then in nearly feverish glee I remembered the 'lil killer.' PLENTY of light for the purpose, and got me back upstairs no problemo.

Thanks for a great little light that has already proved its value!!
 

PhotonFanatic

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Dec 17, 2003
Messages
2,338
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western Massachusetts
Today, I have mailed out O-rings to all those who already have a Killer in their possession, along with a little note.

I've found two things to do that will eliminate the flickering.

First, file/sand down the solder blob so that it is only .5mm tall (yeah, yeah, I know I said to make it thicker before; and, in fact, I did increase the thickness to stop the head of the light from contacting the top of the battery--but that was before the PEEK sleeve installations). Doing that allows the two pieces to move very close together when the light is turned on; and then, when the light is turned off, only the very top of the O-ring should be visible, if not completely hidden by the battery tube. I also found that a flat solder blob seems to twist the battery less, thus giving a more "instant on" experience, rather than any flickering when the battery is first contacting the solder.

Second, install the 1mm x 9mm O-ring in the bottom of the battery tube, then reinstall the battery. The O-ring provides just a little more space to keep the battery from the negative button on the bottom of the battery tube when the light is unscrewed. And, please unscrew the battery tube by three to four ticks of the grooves when shutting your Killer off.
 

PhotonFanatic

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 17, 2003
Messages
2,338
Location
western Massachusetts
I've decided that while the O-rings are one solution, that a larger, thicker, but softer silicone washer will probably perform better than the O-ring.

I am having some silicone washers made via water jet cutting; these will be available in either an adhesive backed version, or without any adhesive. Once these arrive, in two to three weeks, I will send them out to everyone who has bought a Killer.
 

PhotonFanatic

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 17, 2003
Messages
2,338
Location
western Massachusetts
Just a quick note to say that I am still waiting for the reverse polarity converters, which have been delayed by an Asian holiday and health issues with a relative of the builder.

Having said that, I'm expecting the converters within a week and should be able to turn them around fairly quickly once I have them.

Sorry for the delay.

And for those wondering about the AAA battery tube--it is at the machine shop, but they just took a week's vacation this week, so that has slowed down delivery. I'm hopeful that the job will be completed within two weeks of their returning to work on the 11th.
 

PhotonFanatic

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 17, 2003
Messages
2,338
Location
western Massachusetts
Sorry to report that there has been another delay in getting the reverse polarity boards. Seems that the board shop sent out the boards for coating with the dielectric layer, but someone goofed and managed to coat the ground plane!

So the boards need to be redone, meaning yet another week's delay. :ohgeez:

RPBoardError.jpg


The circular band around the circumference should not have been coated--that's the ground plane.
 
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