Review: Convoy S2+ (the red one!) – Fantastic 18650 EDC

[Chicken Drumstick]

Another vote for the T6-3B tint it's a nice NW tint and a good starting point for. 3B is the 'tint', T6 is actually the output bin. But I wouldn't worry at this stage about that.

Regards the driver. Afraid I've not used any of the lower output drivers, so I can't really comment. My use of torches is more for fun and occasional use. So I tend to only use them for short bursts of light. So I either use low or max as a rule. To this end, the 8*7135 works well for me.

If however I was wanting to use the torch for dog walking for maybe 40 mins to an hour, then I'd actively pick a lower powered driver in a Convoy. The 4*7135 driver is brighter on high than the 8*7135 driver on medium, but will run cool enough that you'll be able to leave it on high for long periods of time.

 

[stubbys]

Ok thanks, i guess in reality i really only use a torch in short bursts, checking on the chickens at night, put the bins out, looking for something in the car, usually go to a european center parcs in october and its dark at like 5pm and i like to blast the way with a light. I guess i will go with the 8*7135 for some short burst action as thats whatll itll most likely be used for. I want the olight s2 as well so ill be covered with both of those and then at some stage in the future a headlamp when funds allow, maybe xmas!

 

[EchiDNA]

Hi guys. The review is great, but I have a general question, you wrote that we can use protected and unprotected batteries, which type is preferred and why? I have many unprotected but I am curious and worried.

 

[ven]

A lot is down to preference, i prefer unprotected cells for a few reasons. Less stress on the internal springs(not a tight fit basically when screwing down the tail cap). I dont require protected cells as i keep and eye on things and rather have no strip running down my cell which in itself can become a problem(example on some). The lights i have are modded so they work better on high drain cells, also generally unprotected are cheaper over protected so another reason for me(no major factor though as i would not compromise safety over a few $'s)i just believe that protected cells are not needed in single cell lights.

That is my opinion, may and probably will differ from others, if your not confident or have no means of checking the cell, maybe better to get protected. However (general comment and not aimed at anyone), if a PCB is a must and relied on, then this chemistry is not for them! ) IMO again

Most lights will give a warning, by blink or drop in output, the s2 iirc is at 3v but i have never run it down so low. After some use i top off the cell, ready for the next time, and a practice i have done for a while now to keep things simple and effective for me.

 

[EchiDNA]

A lot is down to preference, i prefer unprotected cells for a few reasons. Less stress on the internal springs(not a tight fit basically when screwing down the tail cap). I dont require protected cells as i keep and eye on things and rather have no strip running down my cell which in itself can become a problem(example on some). The lights i have are modded so they work better on high drain cells, also generally unprotected are cheaper over protected so another reason for me(no major factor though as i would not compromise safety over a few $'s)i just believe that protected cells are not needed in single cell lights.

That is my opinion, may and probably will differ from others, if your not confident or have no means of checking the cell, maybe better to get protected. However (general comment and not aimed at anyone), if a PCB is a must and relied on, then this chemistry is not for them! ) IMO again

Most lights will give a warning, by blink or drop in output, the s2 iirc is at 3v but i have never run it down so low. After some use i top off the cell, ready for the next time, and a practice i have done for a while now to keep things simple and effective for me.

Thank you ven, your post is very clear to me. I have about 15 unprotected cells but no experience on flashlights. I think that it's a waste of money to buy some protected cells right now. Thank you.

 

[ven]

Thank you ven, your post is very clear to me. I have about 15 unprotected cells but no experience on flashlights. I think that it's a waste of money to buy some protected cells right now. Thank you.

Most of mine are unprotected now, still a few protected which get used because i have them. If unsure on anything just ask in the battery section, little read up and common sense(general comment) is all it takes. There is plenty of warning once the voltage gets low by loss of modes. Most flashlights will struggle operating much under 3v anyway, and most have a min of 2.5v! . So if i store a light, i simply lock it out when possible(twist of tail cap) to stop any chance of accidental activation.

iirc all my s2+ cells are LG 20a , after some use i am yet to see any less than 3.6v when put on charge. I just get into a routine, use the light for a period, slap cell on charge. If its 2m here and 2m there then i will subconsciously add up. Kind of hard to explain, but you get a feeling of where your up to in the voltage stakes and its usually within 0.1 or so V.

Welcome

 

[stubbys]

I ordered the s2+, went for these on someones advice as i know very little

Only other batteries i have charged before are these on my drone

Just waiting on the flashlight now, should be here tomorrow [emoji2]

 

[ven]

Good cells the 25R, although a little over kill for a standard s2+, they work fine and I use them in several lights and ecig mods.

 

[stubbys]

Good cells the 25R, although a little over kill for a standard s2+, they work fine and I use them in several lights and ecig mods.

Ok, glad to know, drumstick recommended them.

 

[raduverdes]

Hello, I can hear high pitched noise (not loud but noticeable in quiet environment) on my new Convoy S2+ blue with 3*7135 T6-3B. I hear this noise in low, mid and high modes. Is that normal or my flashlight is defective ? I use unprotected brand new Panasonic INR 3300mAh. Apart from that I like the tint and beam, on high mode the flashlight runs warm but not hot. I bought this light from Simon / Mtnelectronics so it's genuine. All the best, good light and nice tint for everyone !

 

[ven]

Sounds(no pun intended) like driver whine , some lights can get it in just one mode, or all. I have maybe 1 or 2 out of all mine, a p60 drop in that i can get a low whine out of the medium mode. Can hardly hear it, if hold close to head then its more noticeable...............so i dont do that ! :laughing:

Would not say normal but i would also say not unheard of either and defective maybe a too strong word.

You could contact Simon if its an issue for you and take from there, see what he says.

 

[raduverdes]

Thanks ven, yes it's more like low whine and don't bother me if this sound stay the same in the future and don't get louder. All the best !

 

[akmens]

How it regulates mid/low mode? Does it have noticable strobe effect? I cannot tolerate some flashlights because of this.

 

[zakazak]

I am intersted in buying one of these and wonder what setup I should go for.

18650 Batteries
T6 3B
But which 7135 ?

This flashlight will go into my backpack which I use for MTB touring, walking, going to work, etc.

Also: Do 18650 batteries have the same life time as CR123A batteries? I am planning to replace the CR123A of my Fennix TK15 with the 18650 (i think that should fit) and so far the CR123A are still working after 3 years.

 

[ven]

18650 will fit and you should get many years of use out of a cell. Generally 300-500 full cycles and then you may have 70%+ capacity. That is full charge cycles, not top off (example as a top off, 3.8v back to 4.2v) Full cycle would be 3v to 4.2v(roughly without splitting hairs going to the min manufacturers spec of 2.5 or 2.7v as not ideal for the cycle life.)

If your saying still working after 3yrs, is this minimum use and same cell? If so, then 18650 fuel may not be the best option for you as they dont like being stored at full voltage for long periods.

t6 3b ia a nice colour temp, little warmer than what your used to with the fenix. Fenix around 6500k and 3b around 5000k(more neutral)
Driver wise , 7135 depends on how bright, 7135*8 being the brightest but trade off heat(get hot quick on high). Probably the *4 or *6 option would be a more sensible choice............

 

[zakazak]

18650 will fit and you should get many years of use out of a cell. Generally 300-500 full cycles and then you may have 70%+ capacity. That is full charge cycles, not top off (example as a top off, 3.8v back to 4.2v) Full cycle would be 3v to 4.2v(roughly without splitting hairs going to the min manufacturers spec of 2.5 or 2.7v as not ideal for the cycle life.)

If your saying still working after 3yrs, is this minimum use and same cell? If so, then 18650 fuel may not be the best option for you as they dont like being stored at full voltage for long periods.

t6 3b ia a nice colour temp, little warmer than what your used to with the fenix. Fenix around 6500k and 3b around 5000k(more neutral)
Driver wise , 7135 depends on how bright, 7135*8 being the brightest but trade off heat(get hot quick on high). Probably the *4 or *6 option would be a more sensible choice............

Thank you for your explenation. Yes I am talking about using the flashlight every 1-2 months once and so after 3 years it is still working.

The fenix would go into the tool box and I will only need the flashlight every now and then. But when I need it then I dont want it to be empty.

So the 18650 wont work for me at all? How long can you usually leave them around before the get empty by themself?

 

[ven]

Is the fenix tk15 you have been using on the original cr123a batteries...........by that i mean unchanged and still the same 2 batteries you put in the tk15 when purchased and never changed them for new cr123 batteries.

If the batteries are the same and lasted you 3yrs of use(so not much use at all) the cr123a batteries are more suited to your use than li ion chemistry in 18650 batteries.


Yes 18650 will work for use every month or two, just not ideal to be left for long periods. As far as i know the tk15 does not have any parasitic drain(you can lock out on tail cap anyway with a little turn to undo and break any contact altogether). An 18650 cell will last a long long time before it dropped bellow 3v, years and years...................But that is not the issue. Over time they build up resistance and not hold as much charge if left at full charge(4.2v).

If your going to use it every month then top cell off every so often, it wont be an issue.

 

[zakazak]

Is the fenix tk15 you have been using on the original cr123a batteries...........by that i mean unchanged and still the same 2 batteries you put in the tk15 when purchased and never changed them for new cr123 batteries.

If the batteries are the same and lasted you 3yrs of use(so not much use at all) the cr123a batteries are more suited to your use than li ion chemistry in 18650 batteries.


Yes 18650 will work for use every month or two, just not ideal to be left for long periods. As far as i know the tk15 does not have any parasitic drain(you can lock out on tail cap anyway with a little turn to undo and break any contact altogether). An 18650 cell will last a long long time before it dropped bellow 3v, years and years...................But that is not the issue. Over time they build up resistance and not hold as much charge if left at full charge(4.2v).

If your going to use it every month then top cell off every so often, it wont be an issue.

Yup I am talking about one set of batteries..so no battery changing in 3 years.

How about not fully loading the 18650 ? Like loading only to 90% and then leaving it in the flashlight?

How about protected 18650 which will alwqys drain a tiny little bit anyway?

 

[ven]

In that case stick with cr123a cells, in my opinion no reason to switch to 18650 . Benefits of lithium primaries is also in colder/hotter temps...............their life also is usually 10+ years.

If adamant about switching, yes charge to 4.0 - 4.1v , less stress on the cell for being left for long periods. But the 18650 cell is not really designed for this type of use in mind.

 

[zakazak]

In that case stick with cr123a cells, in my opinion no reason to switch to 18650 . Benefits of lithium primaries is also in colder/hotter temps...............their life also is usually 10+ years. If adamant about switching, yes charge to 4.0 - 4.1v , less stress on the cell for being left for long periods. But the 18650 cell is not really designed for this type of use in mind.

Hmm well in the case of sticking with CR123A I will need the Convoy S2+ 18350/16340 version. But this means I should pick some lower driver I guess?

Are there any differences when running the 18350/16340 with a CR123A ? Whats the best configuration then ? 7135x4 ?