Review: Imalent HR20 XP-L HI Rechargeable Headlamp

[degarb]

I guess not even owners know what the vacuum cup, outdoor artifact means. Probably, a bad Google Translation from Chinese.

The one modder on reddit was swapping lenses for frosted. This makes no sense. Think about it: a glass AR lens is fragile and expensive. By default, it should have a plastic flip frosted diffuser, to protect lens when carrying it around. So, make your own. There may be better designs, until then, I cut a lens sized circle with tabs from frosted part of milk jug. Amazing goop one strip of black Walmart elastic to tabs, glue elastic to back of head. Flip back your diffuser for throw. I also played around with hole in center of diffuser for less loss and center heavy beam.

Cc driver? I could not make much of the reddit numbers as he lacked labeling details, making his tables unintelligible. Already, purchased from gearbest, now I see the coupon codes for bang good. Bang selling bad batch of these? Seems low.

 

[degarb]

Got mine last night. My opinions. Smallest lightest single 18650 I have seen, which is great. Much smaller than my single cell convoy, and other lights I have made and purchased. Design is nearly flawless. For purposes, of an edc and aid in loading stuff in morning, it is best design. Worked great as a reading light with my daughter last night. The xpl-hi should also have an acceptable lux to wattage ratio that allow me to use the light for 8 hours at work, inspecting, when I forget my real work lights.

I wouldn't trust the waterproofing: there is an obvious, acceptable, trade off of water resistance for the usb port and infinite variability. Presently I can foresee buying some black water proof vinyl and glue on a foreskin-cut to shape- to surround the ring and usb port. I would need to cut a slit to allow ring control. ..I hope they fixed the glue in electrinic area, as I see nowhere to put glue to prevent this.

My own single 18650 builds use a xp-l hi V5 5300 Kelvin, which seems to me-not only a way better tint- but much more efficient. My guess is they use a V2 bin 6500 Kelvin, rather than shelling out an extra $4 for a better bin of led. ... However, as a morning light, the cooler color, with more blue in key wavelength, will wake my brain up better. It is a very narrow band of blue that are needed to reset the circadian rhythms.

I will give this light a 9.5 (1 to 10 scale) on design where better shrouding of electronics appears necessary, and 8 on execution (apparent low bin led and glue production issue)--at this point in time. My opinion could change, if it breaks. I should add that the light's head band, as well as the light, simply looks cool.

Now, back to main reason that I bought this light: the driver. Anyone figure out if this is a true Buck driver, and the ring is a sense resistor? Or is it another piece of 7135 pwm junk, with %75 efficiency at a watt, unless used on 100%?... (Uses at a wattish, the head got hotter than the convoy, so maybe some sense resistor. Need to reproduce test.)

Next test is tail cap ma reading. Than lux over 10 hours to see if it stays cc, at an acceptable lux that isn't all out high.

 

[Genzod]

degarb,

Could you do the leakage "blow test" recommended in this thread, and tell us the results? Also, what color is the cap and where did you buy it from?

 

[degarb]

Just did one mod. I cut a 1 inch by 2 inch piece from (peanut can foil) pie pan, painted it black, and glued at one point onto light, for rain, paint, and dust protection of ring and usb port. Being metal foil nature, I can shape and wrap around as desired.

I will replace this piece with a more durable one, coated in 100% loxon s1 black polyurethane caulk, for tear resistance. I may attach it with epoxy loaded with copper, aluminum, or zinc dust.

 

[degarb]

degarb,

Could you do the leakage "blow test" recommended in this thread, and tell us the results? Also, what color is the cap and where did you buy it from?

I don't swim with my lights, I don't work in the rain. I will always trade function for water proofing. I can buy a $10 water proof light anywhere. Just won't have led, electronics, runtime, weight, or brightness I need.

So, I never expected this light to be anything more than quick rain downpour resistant--if that.

And yes, if I take off tail cap, remove battery, I can force air through the ring and head.

But in return, I have infinite brightness (absolute best runtime possible) and usb charging (for seldom used edc, I found I am too tired to daily pull out cells and charge in tin).

I will wear this light on my belt. I do daily get splashed with water, and work in dusty environment. So, I will shroud the electronics with black piepan foil material. However, I have worn my homemade edc single 18650 belt light for last 6 months in a harsh environment, yet it is far less water proof. Yet probably the driver was better buried inside the light. Still works, but size, comfort, durability, nor driver, can compete with this light.

 

[degarb]

The black foil looks fine. I was worried it would ruin the appearance. But don't think any outsiders will notice it.

 

[degarb]

To put it into perspective, it is more waterproof and crushproof than my $300 to $800 smartphone. Both, carried into my extremely wet, dusty, and atomized wet resin filled environment. I do force my groin against heavy objects daily with force over 150 lbs, which is more worrying than the moisture.... I cannot think of a better way for waterproofing this design, that is practical-can you?

I got it from gearbest, $38 expedited shipping. Will check color (remember blue) after epoxy dries. Attaching black foil now.

 

[degarb]

Were I the Imalent engineer, I would have put the electronics at opposite end from the emitter. Then, a removable rubber boot could have used to double protect the electronics, during carry and rainstorms.

The problem with engineering, is too much memorization during training. Then, cometh the bean counters during design. And as I see it, professional beta testers are a HUGE problem. By definition, the professional needs to get paid, because they don't use the product in the real world.

 

[degarb]

Also, testers need a background in invention, else they will be blind to problems. Simply having a math and science background, while a plus, is not enough.

 

[degarb]

degarb,

Could you do the leakage "blow test" recommended in this thread, and tell us the results? Also, what color is the cap and where did you buy it from?

What does blue end mean again? Did I get the batch after better glued in electronics?

 

[Genzod]

What does blue end mean again? Did I get the batch after better glued in electronics?

The blue cap came along with a newer batch. The black cap with the rubber boot USB designation misspelled as "USD" was the original production. That was corrected in later batches, perhaps with attention to other issues they had missed in the first.

 

[jorn]

mine is spelled usb, and i got flickering issues, and it's far from waterproof..

 

[Genzod]

mine is spelled usb, and i got flickering issues, and it's far from waterproof..

I have to say that it is obvious that Imalent has applied attention to issues but it's also clear the battle is far from over with.

 

[Genzod]

mine is spelled usb, and i got flickering issues, and it's far from waterproof..

I read in the reddit review that the flickering issues were due to careless anodization at the end of the tube and removing that roughness help alleviate it. The link I believe was supplied earlier in this article, so look that up and maybe you can resolve that.

 

[degarb]

So, I got the newer. I paid a little more. I have no flicker, even at lowest moonlight.

I did have one heck of a time getting any tail cap reading. If a true buck, any resistance might drop voltage below a 3.2 or needed 3.3v. My final ma reading was so low, while led was so bright, I don't believe the readings could be accurate. May need head off and clips to measure ma. I keep buying $40mm, perhaps I should pay more. I measured lux over 2 hour runtime using ergonomic length, roughly 1 watt eye balling brightness. Fairly cc, but I suspect I was seeing a 5 to 7 percent drop per hour in lux. I would need to test again, using table vice.


Another solution for those that fear water, use sugar or cornstarch and silicone caulk to make your own boot for head, mold or cut opening for the lens. . http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-Your-Own-Sugru-Substitute/

But trust me the light is more water proof than your average Walmart or home Depot light.


http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-Your-Own-Sugru-Substitute/ . Also has interesting instructions on conductive glue and fabric.

 

[degarb]

Has anyone dissected the battery to verify that it is indeed protected? I can't feel anything under the vinyl. https://m.banggood.com/1pcs-IMALENT...ted-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-p-985739.html

 

[Genzod]

So, I got the newer. I paid a little more. I have no flicker, even at lowest moonlight.

But trust me the light is more water proof than your average Walmart or home Depot light.

I think it would be okay in rain and a quick dunk in the creek where I grabbed it back out quickly. Those are the situations I would be worried about. But I wouldn't put it in a bowl of water and leave it there for two hours while on.

The other issue with flicker is when you get between two points on the digital dimmer. Apparently just moving it off that fine point solves the problem.

 

[degarb]

I think it would be okay in rain and a quick dunk in the creek where I grabbed it back out quickly. Those are the situations I would be worried about. But I wouldn't put it in a bowl of water and leave it there for two hours while on.

The other issue with flicker is when you get between two points on the digital dimmer. Apparently just moving it off that fine point solves the problem.

Yes, likely existing air pressure would keep water out for a few seconds. I would imagine the USB port would need to be a Qi wireless charge antenna, and the variable ring would need to be magnetic, to be truly water proof. Qi antenna this small might not be possible. Then, there is cost.... On the other hand, I have purposely unwaterproofed many lights adding dimming resistor. That is how important it is to me.

I have not noticed stepping or flicker, yet. I have noticed if I reverse the head and tail on the tube, she doesn't conduct electricity. Odd, and only makes sense if unannodized surface is so thin that a minor thread difference is enough to lose contact.

I finally was able to get a brief credible milliamp reading by taking off head and using a kid for assistance. Got 2 to 2.1 amp reading for high, on fully charged cell. Which probably means 2.4 amps for 900 lumen? 6xamc7135 350s equals 2100 ma... A 6x380 ma amc7135 is 2280. My bet is 900 lumen 2100 ma, until heat builds up and thermal protection kicks in. These amc7135 chips can only be pwm, or so I believe. I think I killed mine by changing, lowering the voltage on the ref pin. It was a considerable amount of components to 555 dim the AMC s. Still, interested in how they did it in such a small space, if truly constant current.

As far as I could tell it has a descent lux at 260 to 300 ma, as measured. I hate to post the tenative numbers here, since a minor bump of head during reassembly, could dramatically change current. I set it to 280, or was it 300 ma, reassembled then measured lux at 1 meter. By definition, double the xpl convoy lux at same current. Measuring, crudely, seemed to confirm a healthy lux, and then some.

Due to compact optic, likely not nearly as throwy as a 26mm. I don't consider it throwy. The only guess that I have, as to meaning of the "artifact" "throw and flood" claim, is that the corona is rather bright, as it is narrow. I have not measured and done the trig calculation, but guess it is only 70 degrees. Please correct me if I am far off.

All measurements were a struggle and need to be reproduced, with better setup. I did notice at 400 ma, it seemed quite bright. My convoy needs the 800 ma setting to seem as bright. Xpl hi and variable advantage.... Also, the Convoy insists on the OP reflector, which I don't get. The smo does fine, no artifacts. Also, if you loose even 1 percent absorbed into each bounce on the polished aluminum, wrinkle, many photon bounces before escape, does mean more loss--assuming the Polish of OP can even match the Polish of the smo.

 

[degarb]

I forgot to measure the low milliamperage. My guess, based on past lights: going out on a limb... got to be comfortably below 4 ma., maybe below 2ma. My low is very dim.

It doesn't take much to unscrew tail cap to prevent parasitic drain. It always seemed a practice that would defeat the purpose of o-rings and waterproof claims.

 

[degarb]

If qi charging is practical on a light this size, let me know.

I get home tired, daily pull light off belt. I have no desire to top off the cell of an edc. Fiddling with the use port, inserting the male end, with no assistance of the light, is less a pain than using an intellicharger--removal, reassemble, insert cell into charger, close cookie tin, reverse above steps next day. But, qi charging at night would be easier, than a daily USB plug fiddle. Downside for qi is it is slow. But unlike your cellphone, I can remove the 18650 for a faster charge.