degarb
Flashlight Enthusiast
I read the Moto 360 smart watch uses a custom qi receiver. So, a flashlight maker might look to what they are doing with tiny qi receivers.
Review: Imalent HR20 XP-L HI Rechargeable Headlamp
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degarb
Flashlight Enthusiast
Also, working crews of people using aaa headlamp lights, 1 light per month would dissappear, at least. People would forget they were wearing and drive home, get attached to light, and keep it. Aa rear packs too, but less likely to forget they are wearing. 2s18650 haven't dissappeared at any similar rate- mostly because no one has home charging capability. Now, this standard built in USB port goes back to ubiquitous charging options that we all have. Since consumers in the USA are ignorant of qi, theft of a qi light would be lower.
Anyway, just been doing side by side with my convoy. It is way brighter at lower current, both, 20 mm lens. This light should be a beast of runtime in the single 18650 class (if ring is used wisely for lowest useful current) , reliability, and availability, due to the USB, size, variable driver, smoother reflector, and choice of the xpl-hi over the xpl.
Anyway, just been doing side by side with my convoy. It is way brighter at lower current, both, 20 mm lens. This light should be a beast of runtime in the single 18650 class (if ring is used wisely for lowest useful current) , reliability, and availability, due to the USB, size, variable driver, smoother reflector, and choice of the xpl-hi over the xpl.
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degarb
Flashlight Enthusiast
Is bang good selling the first "usd" batch?
Probably, would buy several more, (if glued in properly) at $30 level. Maybe, 3 or 4.
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degarb
Flashlight Enthusiast
On a side note, this isn't my first single 18650,infinitely variable headlamp.
There is my http://m.gearbest.com/headlights/pp_251155.html which ramps infinitely, uses a tir for throw, xpg. However, the aluminum Composite is heavy like steel, optic is inferior, larger head, poor runtime using it. The electronic variability is inferior to a mechanical ring as it constantly forgets setting, especially after lockout. I strapped it to my sweeper, taking my Boruit RJ - 02 R5 out of regular use. But, at the price, not a bad light.
There is my http://m.gearbest.com/headlights/pp_251155.html which ramps infinitely, uses a tir for throw, xpg. However, the aluminum Composite is heavy like steel, optic is inferior, larger head, poor runtime using it. The electronic variability is inferior to a mechanical ring as it constantly forgets setting, especially after lockout. I strapped it to my sweeper, taking my Boruit RJ - 02 R5 out of regular use. But, at the price, not a bad light.
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Genzod
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Genzod
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Can't remember which, Gear Best or Banggood was selling black and blue tailcaps at random--you can't choose. Says so right on the product page. I wonder why?:thinking:
Genzod
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62,000 cd.
oo: Bet you could slice butter with that beam!Luminous Flux: 300Lm
Color Temperature: 5500K
Switch Type: Clicky
Battery Type: 18650
Waterproof: IP-65 Standard Waterproof
Working Time: 4h (max)
Lens: Plastic Convex Lens
:hahaha:Beam Distance: 400-500m
Body Material: Aluminium Alloy
degarb
Flashlight Enthusiast
62,000 cd.
Luminous Flux: 300Lm
Color Temperature: 5500K
Switch Type: Clicky
Battery Type: 18650
Waterproof: IP-65 Standard Waterproof
Working Time: 4h (max)
Lens: Plastic Convex Lens
:hahaha:Beam Distance: 400-500m
Body Material: Aluminium Alloy
They claim 62k cd? I don't recall the boruit as anything special. Bright enough when running full blast on new cells, but dims as cells drain. On high, runtime isn't great.
300 to 400 meters does seem high. I never was excited about it enough to measure its lux. I think the tir does unscrew, so did verify it was an xpg. Not a fan of bulky, heavy lights, tir, the non cc electronics. I also think the xpl hi beats the xpg2, xpg3, and especially, the xpg1. I am willing to pay extra for the xpl hi, especially in a v5 neutral. BTW, The xpl2hi should be out by now. Higher cri or efficiency....
degarb
Flashlight Enthusiast
I did purposely use the HR20 tonight in an unforecast heavy downpour, for about 10 minutes, as I emergency tarped things outside.
I did epoxy black foil as described earlier. I cannot imagine the designer didn't do similar test. On my next HR20 I will make a Oogru boot, with a hole for lens and, perhaps, a flap for ring operation.
I did epoxy black foil as described earlier. I cannot imagine the designer didn't do similar test. On my next HR20 I will make a Oogru boot, with a hole for lens and, perhaps, a flap for ring operation.
degarb
Flashlight Enthusiast
Also, based on 2600 battery, 360 max claimed hours, means 7.22 ma on low. I guess that isn't moonlight. I used to put 2 Aa cells in the 3 Aa lights to get these kind of lows for the child lights. Kids always fall asleep with lights on, so 100s of hours are needed, not scores.
degarb
Flashlight Enthusiast
degarb
Flashlight Enthusiast
Well, to be expected: this is the first light that has good edc size, lux per watt for inspection, and runtime full workday or weeks between charge when used sporadically. And safe USB charging.
Did you find a video with the teardown? Or, did you see the insides? I ask, because I am interested in the driver.
Enough heat transfer to head that it can inflict pain if touched to sensitive skin, on high. However, I regard high modes as more a liability than asset. The high modes create more issues than solve.
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Opened it up myself. Just unscrew the bezel and the lense and refector falls out. Easy to do a led swap in this one, but i dont think its worth my effort. Tint is ok for work anyway. If i had used it outdoors for fishing camping ect. I would have swapped the led out for one with warmer tint.
degarb
Flashlight Enthusiast
HR20 XP-L is really good headlamp. I use this model since 5 years and is working without any problems. I need one more, someone can recommend something?
Hmm. I am new to imalent. This variable ring, USB port, design has been around 5 years? If so, would you not mean xml?
If so, how wet did you get it?
Genzod
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To claim 500m throw is to claim 62,000 cd. I = (R^2)/4 = (500^2)/4= 62,500 cd. Clearly though, it's a typo. 50m is closer to the truth.
Genzod
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He mentioned a different flashlight than the Imalent. I went to look at it and saw the range spec as 400-500m and had a good chuckle.
degarb
Flashlight Enthusiast
Got the banggood hr20 neutral 2 days ago. Shipping was fast (blue end cap) . I am unsure, but suspect, a bad battery : came at 2.5 volt and can't get it over 3.7 volt, in two days, including hours on the Intellicharger. Also, clicking 'on', sometimes takes 2 tries. And, 'ring dialing' often turns off light. Will try a Panasonic tonight in it.
The temperature is 4300 kelvin in this one, while 6500k in the first one from gear best.
Now, light makers, I say unto you: 6500 kelvin isn't cool white, it is blue white!! 5700k is cool white. 4500 k to 5500 k is neutral. 4000k is yellow, as is 4300k. Lights should be sold from 4000k to 5700k, maybe down to 3800k, and up to 5800k. Throw all the others away-- the yellows and the blues!
Dogma aside, The 6500k is actually ok--renders colors ok! However, blue scatter is tiny bit over powering. The blue should be polished down to the outdoor white of at least 5800 k. The 4300k (and I have made a few lights, using same led tint and warmer) does have a yellow appearance. Indoors, the cool hr20 looks way brighter; outdoors, the 6500k offers much better peripheral vision. Indoors, yellow and red are way more vivid with 4300k, but blues and purples are better for the 6500k. Green shirt is a tie: The yellow in the green shirt, better in the 4300k, the blue component in the green, better in the other light. (After matching a few thousand paint colors, you see the component colors, not composite colors. ) Outside the cool, honestly, does grass just fine, maybe a bluish bias. While the warm has yellow bias in the grass. In daylight there is much yellow in the grass around my neighborhood..... Now, onto tree bark. An amateur would exclaim there is no, zero, nada, comparison with brown!!!! The 4300 kelvin kicks the aspen out of the 6500k light, on wood!! Indeed mixing, making my own brown paint, I was amazed 25 years ago, how much red goes into brown. Also, the dead brown grass at root base of green grass, is rendered way better. Shining into woody forest canopy, the warmer light actually looked brighter than the cool, as more brown was reflected back to the eye. .... Now, on closer bark inspection for the pine trees that looked grey with cool 6500k and brown under 4300k, the mold, dirt, and underlining bark color is indeed grey. So, the cool light did have a right to emphasize this hue. While the 4300 k emphasis was on the warm hue.
Preference for me is the yellowish 4300 k hr20, since 4000k to 5800kelvin is my preferred temperature range-6500k is above my tolerance. Really, 4500 to 5500k. Though, I am old enough to be brain washed for 10s of thousands of hours under 2700 Kelvin incan light, lest i forget my struggle to escape the life sucking winter lighting of my youth..... I swapped my 50 watt cob 6500 kelvin wake up light for a 4000 kelvin emitter. What a huge difference: the 6500 was way, way better at waking me up! So, 6500 k, does have some use. I suspect better peripheral vision and distant focus, is the other benefit of 6500kelvin.
The temperature is 4300 kelvin in this one, while 6500k in the first one from gear best.
Now, light makers, I say unto you: 6500 kelvin isn't cool white, it is blue white!! 5700k is cool white. 4500 k to 5500 k is neutral. 4000k is yellow, as is 4300k. Lights should be sold from 4000k to 5700k, maybe down to 3800k, and up to 5800k. Throw all the others away-- the yellows and the blues!
Dogma aside, The 6500k is actually ok--renders colors ok! However, blue scatter is tiny bit over powering. The blue should be polished down to the outdoor white of at least 5800 k. The 4300k (and I have made a few lights, using same led tint and warmer) does have a yellow appearance. Indoors, the cool hr20 looks way brighter; outdoors, the 6500k offers much better peripheral vision. Indoors, yellow and red are way more vivid with 4300k, but blues and purples are better for the 6500k. Green shirt is a tie: The yellow in the green shirt, better in the 4300k, the blue component in the green, better in the other light. (After matching a few thousand paint colors, you see the component colors, not composite colors. ) Outside the cool, honestly, does grass just fine, maybe a bluish bias. While the warm has yellow bias in the grass. In daylight there is much yellow in the grass around my neighborhood..... Now, onto tree bark. An amateur would exclaim there is no, zero, nada, comparison with brown!!!! The 4300 kelvin kicks the aspen out of the 6500k light, on wood!! Indeed mixing, making my own brown paint, I was amazed 25 years ago, how much red goes into brown. Also, the dead brown grass at root base of green grass, is rendered way better. Shining into woody forest canopy, the warmer light actually looked brighter than the cool, as more brown was reflected back to the eye. .... Now, on closer bark inspection for the pine trees that looked grey with cool 6500k and brown under 4300k, the mold, dirt, and underlining bark color is indeed grey. So, the cool light did have a right to emphasize this hue. While the 4300 k emphasis was on the warm hue.
Preference for me is the yellowish 4300 k hr20, since 4000k to 5800kelvin is my preferred temperature range-6500k is above my tolerance. Really, 4500 to 5500k. Though, I am old enough to be brain washed for 10s of thousands of hours under 2700 Kelvin incan light, lest i forget my struggle to escape the life sucking winter lighting of my youth..... I swapped my 50 watt cob 6500 kelvin wake up light for a 4000 kelvin emitter. What a huge difference: the 6500 was way, way better at waking me up! So, 6500 k, does have some use. I suspect better peripheral vision and distant focus, is the other benefit of 6500kelvin.
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