Review of / Measurement on Charger module with TP4056 controller

[eatkabab]

I recently received one of these chips (micro USB variation) and hooked it up to a single 2000mah LiPo cell and two of the leads on the IC started to spark, sizzle, and a small flame occurred....
I mean this is pretty simple stuff and I'm sure I attached the battery leads to the correct terminals as seen in the picture. Could it be that the +/- as printed on the board is flipped?

(I made this picture for the china seller of the board so please don't be offended by my arrowing)

Any help is HUGELY appreciated.


Also, if you leave the battery connected to this circuit, does it draw any current? I assume it does given that it's a circuit...any idea how much? Will a 2000mah cell last for weeks, months if just left from a full charge?

Also, OP, thank you so much. This is exactly what I was looking for.


Edit: Upon inspection, I note that the "Batt +, Batt -" are printed on the same sides as the OP pictures, although reversed running towards the USB connector instead of away. Dunno if that means anything.

Update: I just reversed the batt polarity (just tapped the leads) and the same two leads on the IC started sizzling/sparking. :shrug:

 

[billy_gr]

A bit to late... but you polarity according to the first post of HKJ was ok...

It looks like pins 5 and 6 of the TP4056 are soldered together, you can verify it with an ohm meter while disconnecting the battery and the USB, it would be close to zero ohm.

On the other hand if it is burned allready... you will not be 100% sure for the result

 

[eatkabab]

It looks like pins 5 and 6 of the TP4056 are soldered together, you can verify it with an ohm meter while disconnecting the battery and the USB, it would be close to zero ohm.

Thanks very much for your reply but I just checked and they're not connected. The flash of light in the picture is misleading. It's coming from under the very corner pin. It still sparkles and sizzles if I leave the batt connected for more than a few seconds...

 

[malow]

DX has this charging boards in 2 flavors for $2.30

http://dx.com/p/tp4056-1a-li-ion-battery-charging-module-blue-4v-8v-215797
http://dx.com/p/1a-lithium-battery-charging-module-blue-205188

also a MP1405 based with a li-ion protection circuit on it:

http://dx.com/p/mp1405-5v-1a-lithium-battery-charging-board-blue-black-219454

i got a few of them, and as mentioned, they get quite hot at 1A charging. glued a small heatsink over the ic with thermal glue. works great

i use them together with a small switching regulator, so i get a 6v~28v input charger:
http://dx.com/p/mini-3a-4-5-28v-input-0-8-20v-output-step-down-voltage-regulator-green-238815

 

[eatkabab]

So the ebay seller replied about my faulty chip and said i'm supposed to have the usb power plugged in before soldering the batt leads. That seems really counter intuitive... do I just have a faulty fried chip?

 

[puchu]

So the ebay seller replied about my faulty chip and said i'm supposed to have the usb power plugged in before soldering the batt leads.

That seems to be an excuse, you could contact ebay, if its under ebay protection for Paypal
--------------------------------------
Please have a look at the following circuit based on the same IC most likely.

I am going to buy this for 1.11$
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400353508118#payCntId
same item is on DX.com I think the circuit is capable of output also but; is it 5 volts or just battery O/P.
http://dx.com/p/tp4056-1a-li-ion-battery-charging-module-blue-4v-8v-215797

- Model: TP4056
- Quantity: 1
- Color: Blue
- Material: PCB + plastic + iron
- Board TP4056 lithium charge management chip
- Mini USB head can link directly to the computer USB port charging
- The charging board can also power supply from (IN + and IN-) pin
- Setting aside the the TEMP pin interface can be used as lithium battery temperature detection
- Input voltage: 4V~8V
- Maximum output charging current: 1000mA
- D1 indicator lights on when in charging, D2 lights on when charging completed
- English Manual/Spec: Yes
- Great for DIY project
- Packing list:
- 1 x Lithium battery charging module

Has anyone used this ?

 

[eatkabab]

That seems to be an excuse, you could contact ebay, if its under ebay protection for Paypal
--------------------------------------
Please have a look at the following circuit based on the same IC most likely.

I am going to buy this for 1.11$
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400353508118#payCntId
same item is on DX.com and it says the circuit is capable of output also but; is it 5 volts or j ?

They refunded me. There only seems to be two different circuits in the micro usb form so I ordered the other one. Hoping the one I had was just faulty.

As for the one you ordered, it seems they just moved the IN pins to thr back of the board next to the OUT pins. That doesnt exactly make sense but its china... the board can only be powered by those pins, it probably wont feed power out the usb plug.

 

[puchu]

They refunded me. There only seems to be two different circuits in the micro usb form so I ordered the other one. Hoping the one I had was just faulty.

As for the one you ordered, it seems they just moved the IN pins to thr back of the board next to the OUT pins. That doesnt exactly make sense but its china... the board can only be powered by those pins, it probably wont feed power out the usb plug.

May be its for people who won't use the USB port instead they would put a solar panel through a 7805

 

[eatkabab]

So I got my new module, hooked up the battery and it works great. The last one was probably defective.

It charges great but around when the battery is almost full it does this funny thing where the red and green lights flicker together really fast. Sometimes it goes straight to green and stays there, other times it does that funny behavior. Is it just phasing between charging and full? Does this mean it's just about almost full? Is this bad?

Just a note, I actually got the version with a built in protective circuit. I'm not sure that makes a difference or even matters if the battery is already protected though. It appears to be much higher quality than the previous one which is the same as the OP's.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151115248051?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
It's $4.49 now but I got it for $3.35 just two weeks ago...

 

[bob_ninja]

I found the flickering red/blue to be caused by poor contact and other times almost full cell.
Seems to be normal, no issues.

 

[Lightfoot98]

also a MP1405 based with a li-ion protection circuit on it:

http://dx.com/p/mp1405-5v-1a-lithium-battery-charging-board-blue-black-219454

What chip does this use?

Can't find anything on "MP1405"

 

[eatkabab]

HUGE NOTE!! I figured out why my first board burnt up!!!
I almost always use solder solution. When it boils under soldering it splatters around...onto the MP1405...which I now know will de-solder/fry it's connection under the battery's typical idle current/voltage.

DO NOT USE SOLDER SOLUTION/REDUCING AGENT ANYWHERE NEAR THESE BOARDS!!!

Maybe add this to the OP? I mean we don't want people burning up their $2 investments. I had to do it twice before figuring it out

 

[HKJ]

HUGE NOTE!! I figured out why my first board burnt up!!!
I almost always use solder solution. When it boils under soldering it splatters around...onto the MP1405...which I now know will de-solder/fry it's connection under the battery's typical idle current/voltage.

DO NOT USE SOLDER SOLUTION/REDUCING AGENT ANYWHERE NEAR THESE BOARDS!!!

Maybe add this to the OP? I mean we don't want people burning up their $2 investments. I had to do it twice before figuring it out

You do never use that when working with electronic, you always uses flux.

 

[eatkabab]

Also, here's what I've made with it. I'll be making about 10 of these. That black thing is a 3.5mm headphone port used for basically a tiny very focused flashlight on a wire that uses an XRE LED. I ended up just buying 3.5mm extension cables for use because those damn 3.5mm female components cost 5x the cost of the entire wire. It gets affixed better with the case on so no movement stress on any electronics.

The one in a case uses a custom circuit board I developed based on a cell phone camera light driver. The one without a case is just an AMC7135. I tried using the cell chip because it gives me buck/boost functionality which is theoretically more efficient. The cell chip at 318ma runs for 9.5hrs on the 3400ma Panasonic 18650. The AMC7135 goes at 350ma so right off the bat I would expect to cut at least an hour off...we'll see.


This is the 'cell phone' driver used in the one within a case:

 

[eatkabab]

You do never use that when working with electronic, you always uses flux.

So I've now learned... Interesting since I never had a problem for many years. I do always try to be very neat about it though.
The basic concept is just a reducing agent so whatever it is it still sizzles off. Does the flux pen not spatter and rather just smoke away?

Oh you're the one that does the battery tests! EXCELLENT WORK! That test is hugely valuable and should be published in books and updated regularly. I commend your very scientific methods. It's more determinant, informative and efficient than the mountains of conflicting medical research at least. I chose my battery based off your test. Then realized Tesla also uses a variation of this cell for their cars which is reassuring.

 

[HKJ]

So I've now learned... Interesting since I never had a problem for many years. I do always try to be very neat about it though.
The basic concept is just a reducing agent so whatever it is it still sizzles off. Does the flux pen not spatter and rather just smoke away?

A flux pen works more like a regular pen, there is no splatter.
And flux is not dangerous for electronic parts (Depends a bit on type, some flux has to be washed away).

For most electronic soldering work you uses solder with build in flux and seldom has to apply flux.

 

[eatkabab]

A flux pen is works more like a regular pen, there is no splatter.
And flux is not dangerous for electronic parts (Depends a bit on type, some flux has to be washed away).

For most electronic soldering work you uses solder with build in flux and seldom has to apply flux.

I'm embarrassed to show the soldering iron I'm using. It's worse than those radioshack things. I'm basically soldering with an 8mm tip that I even modified to get that small. It can barely keep itself heated so It needs all the help it can get.
Thank you for all the information. I'll grab some flux pen for the remainder.

 

[psychbeat]

Also, here's what I've made with it. I'll be making about 10 of these. That black thing is a 3.5mm headphone port used for basically a tiny very focused flashlight on a wire that uses an XRE LED. I ended up just buying 3.5mm extension cables for use because those damn 3.5mm female components cost 5x the cost of the entire wire. It gets affixed better with the case on so no movement stress on any electronics.

The one in a case uses a custom circuit board I developed based on a cell phone camera light driver. The one without a case is just an AMC7135. I tried using the cell chip because it gives me buck/boost functionality which is theoretically more efficient. The cell chip at 318ma runs for 9.5hrs on the 3400ma Panasonic 18650. The AMC7135 goes at 350ma so right off the bat I would expect to cut at least an hour off...we'll see.


This is the 'cell phone' driver used in the one within a case:

^^Those look cool!

 

[maly]

Hi guys.

I am new in this DIY charging batteries and I wanted to make my own battery pack from 2 18650 batteries 5300mAh to have a total of 7.4v with 5300mAh. Now I already bought the USB charging circuit TP4056. However, I don't have an idea on how exactly i should connect the batteries to this circuit in order to be able to charge and use the batteries at the same time without removing the batteries from my project enclosure. Also, does the TP4056 needs a PCM board in order to work or it has built in protection.

I have used the diagram here http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/lipo.html for wiring but it didn't give me any information about the protection circuit, I am little bit confused here. :shakehead

Thanks for your help.

 

[dlong]

Has anyone compared (or reviewed) the MP1405 to the TP4056 to see what the charging profile is? Can't find anything (datasheet) on the MP1405. Are we sure it's an actual part number of the chip and not just some made up model for the module?

-d