Smallest yet high lumen, multi-mode and very long runtime

HKJ

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by the way. whats the differences between LF2 and LF2X, other than the flood? Does LF2X have modes such as strobe, sos, fixed hi/low etc? cos all i've been hearing are the self programmed modes. And the final qn, between LOD and LF2X, which is a better one? Because like i said b4, i recently bot a LoD for a friend and upon receiving it, i thot I should have something like it too but i wanted to know if there are better ones than it :D

The X has a newer emitter.
I do not know if the double current with Li-Ion is something special for the LF2X or also present in the LF2?

Your can also get it here, he is fast at sending it:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=175263
 

1M1

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Well, if you haven't decided yet, you might also wish to consider the BITZ.

Info for the light can be found in the review section.

I have a WEE, as well as a RAW NS, but I also prefer to have a primary powered light with me and chose to give the BITZ a try. I like it and it appears to meet your lumen/runtime/multimode list.
 

ruriimasu

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thanks so much for all the suggestions. i am still deciding on which 1 to get. dun want to get and leave it on the shelf.. :laughing:

anyway, anyone of u have a L0D or LF2X and draco at the same time? is the draco able to produce a throw as far as the L0D when at its brightest?
 

Rossymeister

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L0D-CE=Great light with a simple UI

LF2X=Total customization,Low-Low output.

I would get the LF2X, hands down. The programmability of this light, makes it extremely useful.
 

LED Cool

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thanks for the info! :D

by the way. whats the differences between LF2 and LF2X, other than the flood? Does LF2X have modes such as strobe, sos, fixed hi/low etc? cos all i've been hearing are the self programmed modes. And the final qn, between LOD and LF2X, which is a better one? Because like i said b4, i recently bot a LoD for a friend and upon receiving it, i thot I should have something like it too but i wanted to know if there are better ones than it :D

hello ruriimasu,

the LF2X does have all the features of the LF2 plus the following extra features.

CREE Q2 LED emitter which has higher output.
LF2X has higher LED current, so total output is brighter than LF2.
deeper reflector which gives a more pronounced hotspot. i.e. increased throw.
threaded tail for attachment to a tripod.
detachable pocket clip with flat bottom for tail standing.
quick release mechanism for key ring attachment or the included stainless steel ball neck chain.
natural Hard Anodize III.
different body design.
quick attachment of the white diffuser.(no need to unscrew the bezel like in the LF2)

khoo
 

lengendcpf

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Maybe I just hop ontp this thread.

Regarding the LF2X, just using rechargeable, ie eneloop or recyko at 800mah..(forget about the 10440)..

1. What is the lowest lumens and highest lumens one can programmed?

2. For the lowest lumens and highest lumens, what are the runtime respectively? Thanks..
 

ruriimasu

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Oct 17, 2007
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hello ruriimasu,

the LF2X does have all the features of the LF2 plus the following extra features.

CREE Q2 LED emitter which has higher output.
LF2X has higher LED current, so total output is brighter than LF2.
deeper reflector which gives a more pronounced hotspot. i.e. increased throw.
threaded tail for attachment to a tripod.
detachable pocket clip with flat bottom for tail standing.
quick release mechanism for key ring attachment or the included stainless steel ball neck chain.
natural Hard Anodize III.
different body design.
quick attachment of the white diffuser.(no need to unscrew the bezel like in the LF2)

khoo

hi khoo, i just stay next to your country (im in singapore). is your shop anywhere near jb, maybe i can hop by to look at the LF2X? I am mulling over whether a LF2X or L0D. The + points for L0D is the 70+lumen (high) setting can last about an hour plus and the low setting (15 or was it 20 lumen) can last many hours. So I know LF2X if programmed at its highest 130lumen can run about 20mins. But what about its runtime if programmed at 70+lumen like the L0D? If the runtime is equivalent or higher (without any special expensive battery), then that is the light I will get. And does it have modes such as strobe, sos? not that I need those, but i think it will be nice to have them around :D
 

ruriimasu

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hi matrixshaman,
oh i must have missed the sos n strobe details. yes.. but there are lots of stuffs i didnt understand from there. like:

User adjustable mode - default at 50%. Adjustable to 0.2% (8 seconds) or 100% (8 seconds) with memory <-- what is the 8 seconds?
And i still don't know whether it could light up as long as the L0D when put at same highest setting as the L0D and throw as far. crenshaw had kindly attached a link with graphs to show me but i must admit those graphs were alien pictures to me :oops:
 

2xTrinity

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hi matrixshaman,
oh i must have missed the sos n strobe details. yes.. but there are lots of stuffs i didnt understand from there. like:

User adjustable mode - default at 50%. Adjustable to 0.2% (8 seconds) or 100% (8 seconds) with memory <-- what is the 8 seconds?
When programming the light, output begins at 50%. If you move into P2, the output will gradually "sweep" from 50% to 100% over the course of 8 seconds. you can thaen interrupt this by switching out of P2, and that output will "stick". Likewise, sweeping from 50% to 0% takes 8 seconds. Sweeping across the entire range from 0.2% to 100% takes 16 seconds.

When programming my modes in my light, I wanted my highest setting to be about 75% (as that is IMO the optimum tradeoff point between brightness and runtime) so instead of trying to look at the brightness and guess at the output, I actually simply waited 4 seconds to know when to stop and save the setting.

IMO the biggest weakenss of the LF2 series is that this sweeping process is linear -- ie, every second corresponds to an incease or decrease of ~6.25% in output. However, the way our eyes perceive brightness changes is logarithmic, meaning on the "low" end of the brightness range, that rate of sweeping is too fast, and on the high end it's way too slow (Everything between 50% and 100% is very difficult to distinguish just by looking at it). IMO the prorgamming would be a lot better off if they programmed in a logarithmic curve to match the way our eye sensitivity works.

The way you adjust the brightness in programming mode (I believe 6 switching cycles) is to move the light into position two.
And i still don't know whether it could light up as long as the L0D when put at same highest setting as the L0D and throw as far.
I have studied those graphs in detail and concluded that efficiency between the two (assuming the same battery type) is close to the same -- so if you set the runtime to similar output, you'll get similar runtime. However, making a direct comparison is difficult because the LF2 is regulated, and the fenix L0D is not (it gradually declines in otuput, with the voltage curve of the battery). This means if you were to compare the L0D to the LF2x and they were to start out at the same setting, runtime to 50% would be longer on the L0D, but that's simply because output/power consumption is continually decreasing on the L0D.

Check out the link in my sig for more info comparing the current consumption of the LF2s if you're interested, as well as links to tons of over relevant threads on the LF2s.
 
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ruriimasu

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okay.. i think i will get the LF2X since most of u recommended it :D btw, by primary batteries, do u mean the normal alkaline AAA batts (same as 10440?)? cos that will be the batt that i will use since its available everywhere in my country. lithiums are too expensive here.
 
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2xTrinity

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okay.. i think i will get the LF2X since most of u recommended it :D btw, by primary batteries, do u mean the normal alkaline AAA batts (same as 10440?)? cos that will be the batt that i will use since its available everywhere in my country. lithiums are too expensive here.
Primary simply means usable once. Energizer lithiums for example are simply a more expensive primary. I think you will be disappointed with the performance of alkaline batteries, especially on the high levels. Alkalines have a lot of internal resistance, which means they can't sustain the high currents necessary to produce the bright light you're probably looking for. This is the reason why Lithium cels are sold -- they are able to sustin higher current. Although, if you plan to mainly run lower levels, you will be fine with alkalines.

Your best option woudl be to get some NiMH rechrgeable batteries, preferably a low self discharge variety such as Sanyo Eneloops. This will be able to deliver high current without a problem, and they are reusable.
 

ruriimasu

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Oh.. thanks for the battery info. I guess I will get some eneloops them :D
by the way, side tracking, i gave my friend a L0D (i put int an alkaline), can lithiums be used in it? cos i didn't know you cant use all batts of the same size (eg AAA) untill i stumbled into here. :thinking:
 

ruriimasu

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Your best option woudl be to get some NiMH rechrgeable batteries, preferably a low self discharge variety such as Sanyo Eneloops. This will be able to deliver high current without a problem, and they are reusable.

Hi 2xTrinity, do u mean NiMH will give me the same/similar brightness as lithiums? :thinking:

sorry, i tried to search the forum for explanation for the different types of batteries such as alkaline, NiMH, lithiums, 10440 but could not find, probably i used the wrong search terms. will anyone here be able to direct me a link to all these? am quite interested to know more. also maybe a link to what is is different about Q4, Q5, R2, etc lights :p hope i dun spend more after reading all these :D
 
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Crenshaw

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Hi 2xTrinity, do u mean NiMH will give me the same/similar brightness as lithiums? :thinking:

sorry, i tried to search the forum for explanation for the different types of batteries such as alkaline, NiMH, lithiums, 10440 but could not find, probably i used the wrong search terms. will anyone here be able to direct me a link to all these? am quite interested to know more. also maybe a link to what is is different about Q4, Q5, R2, etc lights :p hope i dun spend more after reading all these :D

read the welcome mat :)

Alkalines sag under high load, meaning that they can sustain high voltage for very long

NiMh have 1.2 voltage output, 0.3 less then Alkaline, but it cant sustain it.

Lithiums provide 1.7 right at the start, and normalize to 1.5, and last longer, and sustain it too.

Li-ons are high powered rechargables, 3.6, and up to 4.2 hot off the charger.. use them carefully. Some lights ( Lf2x, NDI, etc) use a circuit that allows you to use either Litium Ion batteries, or alkalines/nimh

oh, the graphs represent the output over time...so a flat graph means it is a stable output over the time period.



Crenshaw
 
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2xTrinity

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Hi 2xTrinity, do u mean NiMH will give me the same/similar brightness as lithiums? :thinking:
In a regulated light, such as the LF2 that has been recommended, brightness will be the same -- as both Lithium Primary and NiMH are capable of sustaining high current needed to produce high output. In a direct-drive light, the lithums will run brighter as they are higher voltage.

Total runtime on the lithium primary will be about 60% longer. However, one advantage of rechargeable batteries is you can "top them off" if you want to, or simply swap them out for a fresh pair any time you want. With primaries of any kind, you have to wait until they're used up to replace them, or waste a lot of money. So unless you're actually using your entire runtime all at once (which is rare) this difference in runtime won't actually matter.
 
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