Surefire 9P + 2 x Eneloops + M61WLL (Yes, I already searched!)

purelite

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Nov 9, 2005
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546
Its amazing to me that such a small difference in voltage on the Malkoffs can make that much of a difference . I wonder why that is? I read that they stay in regulation down to 3.4volts? but I see a difference at 4.8 or 1x18650 at 4.20 off the charger.
 

ElectronGuru

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currently running a test in a G3 with 3x 123s but will switch over to eneloops next...


Test one complete. Lap 1 is fully regulated. Lap 2 is dimming.



2yo8wwg.png
 

skyfire

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so does that mean you have 1 more M61NLLL in stock? or are you keeping that one? :sssh:

also, is the LLL brighter on 3x CR123?
 

T45

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Wichita KS
Why on earth is no one stating what LUMENS they are getting with these setups?
Christo_pull_hair.gif
ceiling bounce, close to, almost, seems like.....SOMETHING. By the way, I will be getting a M60LL for my Surefire Lego Project: M2(old style) Bezel, 9P body and a Z41 tail cap with a McClicky installed. Nice to know I can run it with 2 AAs If I have to.
 

Mikellen

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Sep 16, 2008
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TX, USA
O.K. so the runtime with the M61LLL on 3 Cr123a batteries runs longer than 2 Cr123as and the M60LL runtime is longer on 2 Cr123as than 3 Cr123as. Do I have this correct?

How does the M61WLL react with 2 or 3 Cr123as? Longer runtime with 2 or 3?

Hope its O.K. to ask about Cr123a instead of the OP's 2 AA question. :)
 
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RI Chevy

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I tried running to alkaline AA's in my 9P yesterday. They were low to start (1.04v each). I used an XR-E 3 mode low voltage (.8-4.2v) LED. It provided a nice low light, and it looked like it was a little brighter than moonlight mode for over an hour or so (maybe 1-5 lumens). The light finally ran out. I did not untwist the switch when the light went out. A while later, I checked the light, and noticed that my rubber boot on the switch looked a balloon (about half the size of a golf ball and very squishy). I immediately untwisted the switch, and the air deflated from inside the host from the switch. What gives here? Do the batteries create air pressure inside the host? Was it a gas from the batteries? I checked the batteries when I unscrewed everything, and they both read .48v with my DMM. No heat was present. No leakage of batteries. Any insight on this? Did I damage the rubber boot on the switch? I tried this again today with more AA's, and the light and LED still work.
Will this rubber boot/switch issue happen if I use a Malkoff M31WLL also?
 

mbw_151

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Feb 28, 2008
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Oregon
Does anyone have a runtime chart for an M61LL? I think I have the Big Waffles M60LL chart on my laptop. I'll post it tomorrow.
 

ElectronGuru

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In currently running a test in a G3 with 3x 123s but will switch over to eneloops next...

Can't believe I volunteered for this :ohgeez:

M61NLLL on 2 Eneloop 1500x AA's (blue). Passing hour 94, its now dim enough to look directly into the LED.

So 24 hours of good output, followed by another ~70 hours, g r a d u a l l y declining from there.
 
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Sgt. LED

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Sep 4, 2007
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Chesapeake, Ohio
M61LLL The survivalist's Malkoff.
We all need one to fall back on!
Special thanks to the guys at Oveready for getting those N tints made!
My favorite.
 

Tana

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Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
1,850
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Bosnia & Herzegovina
I tried running to alkaline AA's in my 9P yesterday. They were low to start (1.04v each). I used an XR-E 3 mode low voltage (.8-4.2v) LED. It provided a nice low light, and it looked like it was a little brighter than moonlight mode for over an hour or so (maybe 1-5 lumens). The light finally ran out. I did not untwist the switch when the light went out. A while later, I checked the light, and noticed that my rubber boot on the switch looked a balloon (about half the size of a golf ball and very squishy). I immediately untwisted the switch, and the air deflated from inside the host from the switch. What gives here? Do the batteries create air pressure inside the host? Was it a gas from the batteries? I checked the batteries when I unscrewed everything, and they both read .48v with my DMM. No heat was present. No leakage of batteries. Any insight on this? Did I damage the rubber boot on the switch? I tried this again today with more AA's, and the light and LED still work.
Will this rubber boot/switch issue happen if I use a Malkoff M31WLL also?

Well I noticed the boot "balooning" pretty much with any soft boot installed on high quality tailcap (triad or Z41) as all o-rings are good and well lubricated, so once I screw tailcap all the way down (McClicky installation), the rubber goes slightly baloony... If it was more than before, then it has to be batteries and it's never good idea to keep emptied batteries inside so well fitted host, be it either alkalines or lithiums... The only thing I like about alkalines is that should not be able to start the fire like lithiums used to be infamous for... Maybe I'm wrong, like I stated in another post, I'm just more relaxed knowing I have alkalines in the hot vehicle... All my other flashlights are Lithium based...

9P with M31WLL is a sweet setup for situations where alkalines are much cheaper and easier to get...
 

RI Chevy

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
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Ocean State
Can't believe I volunteered for this :ohgeez:

M61NLLL on 2 Eneloop 1500x AA's (blue). Passing hour 94, its now dim enough to look directly into the LED.

So 24 hours of good output, followed by another ~70 hours, g r a d u a l l y declining from there.

Wow! Very impressive. Thank you for taking the time and effort to do this for us. :thumbsup:
 

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