SureFire E1E or another for edc?

[My3kidsfather]

Actually, I'm going to recommend the E1E. You already have a E2DL, the E1B is the same thing, smaller package and less lumens. With the E1E you have incan with the option of LF bulbs. Also you can use the E2DL head on the E1E body wth a RCR123, best of both worlds.

SureAddicted,

This is what we are talking about.. the addiction to SureFire and it's endless options in swaps. I was unaware that you could put the E2DLed's head on a E1E. It needs 8.4v. though- mine uses two rcr123a's.

 

[My3kidsfather]

Its only $99.99 delivered, which is what I paid and the sale is still going on. Free shipping and no taxes to CA.
http://www.ombexpress.com/p_FL315.aspx

bigchelis,

Thanks for the tip. Happened to just buy a E1E at a local shop in Alberta. Better price than on line too.

 

[RobertM]

Carrot,
I did not know 3.7v. bulbs are available for e1e's. I have the rechargeables already. you speak of an incan bulb?

Get the E1e, you'll love it! Even with all the great LED lights available, I completely understand your want for an incan. I recently bought a black E1e from LAPoliceGear.com for $65 on closeout (I think they still have some, but you better hurry). Then head over the lumensfactory.com and get either the HO-E1R or the EO-E1R.

The included lamp from SureFire is 15 "SureFire lumens." LF rates their lamps in "bulb lumens," whereas SureFire rates "out the front lumens" on half dead batteries (average over the life of the battery). I use the rough conversion of LF * 0.50 = SF. So, the HO-E1R is about 25 SF lumens and runs for ~50 min and the EO-E1R is about 45 SF lumens and runs for ~30 mins.

Me personally, I'd just get the E1e and use the standard SureFire lamp on non-rechargeable primary cells for it's 90 min. runtime. If you really want rechargeable, get the HO-E1R for a little more output and decent runtime.

Robert

 

[My3kidsfather]

Me personally, I'd just get the E1e and use the standard SureFire lamp on non-rechargeable primary cells for it's 90 min. runtime. If you really want rechargeable, get the HO-E1R for a little more output and decent runtime.

Robert

Robert,

Actually I wanted the E1E for it's incan light, not too bright for use in the cab at work. I find incan light seems to find the things that get dropped on the floor and roll out of sight easier than a led might regardless of relative brightness. It's a matter of color-of-light illumination. A bit of yellow seems to help me find things that are lost without blinding me to night vision.

I use the E2DL for inspecting passing trains- it lights them up well, and gives me a few seconds to run if something is sideways.. like the load of eighty foot pipe that pivoted in the middle, swinging out about 8-9 feet each end.

 

[RobertM]

Robert,

Actually I wanted the E1E for it's incan light, not too bright for use in the cab at work. I find incan light seems to find the things that get dropped on the floor and roll out of sight easier than a led might regardless of relative brightness. It's a matter of color-of-light illumination. A bit of yellow seems to help me find things that are lost without blinding me to night vision.

The HO-E1R, EO-E1R, and MN01 (standard E1e lamp) are all incans. :thinking:
I'm a bit confused by your post. I was saying that you SHOULD go with an E1e.

Noticing that you live pretty far north (Alberta), Li-Ion rechargeable cells generally have a minimum operating temperature of 14F/-10C. Just something to keep in mind if it gets pretty cold in the winter months.

Robert

 

[My3kidsfather]

The HO-E1R, EO-E1R, and MN01 (standard E1e lamp) are all incans. :thinking:
I'm a bit confused by your post. I was saying that you SHOULD go with an E1e.

Noticing that you live pretty far north (Alberta), Li-Ion rechargeable cells generally have a minimum operating temperature of 14F/-10C. Just something to keep in mind if it gets pretty cold in the winter months.

Robert

I agree with you Robert. Your advice is good. But I did not know that rechargeable 123a's have a temp restriction. Thanks for that.

 

[Gunner12]

Gunner12,

Although I love led lights, it does not illuminate browns well, and will not penetrate fog and smoke as well as incans. This is important to me as bears, wolves, and to some extent coyotes can be a problem at work and hunting. Ideally, leds and incans are both brought to the fore and employed as required.

I have a CL1H and love it. I keep changing the reflector back and forth, trying to find which one is more useful. I would say I would give up some distance for a better flood at distance..

What about warmer white LED lights?

Maybe beamshots will show what I'm saying(from this thread, post 111):

Just got mine, but don't have time for a full review right now (a few other invited ones in the hopper first ).

First impressions are that it is very solid (although I'm thinking the added weight will limit portability). Definitely the best 2AA thrower that Fenix has produced yet - throws almost as well as my T1 did (sorry, don't have any lux numbers handy at the moment). And yes, my grip is also loose - I think I'll try the boiling trick first and see how it goes.

But I thought I'd share a quick pic of the beam tint compared to the L2D Q5. First, control pic in daylight

Now the evening shots. Camera set to daylight white balance, 5sec exposure, f3.2.

Enjoy! :wave:

Still no Incan but better then most white LEDs. You can get LEDs even lower then 3000K but those are pretty low efficiency wise.

If this will be EDC, as in close to the body most of the time, then you might be fine with rechargeable batteries.

 

[My3kidsfather]

What about warmer white LED lights?

Still no Incan but better then most white LEDs. You can get LEDs even lower then 3000K but those are pretty low efficiency wise.

If this will be EDC, as in close to the body most of the time, then you might be fine with rechargeable batteries.

That TK20 sure has a better rendition of brown than a normal Q5 emitter, eh? Gotta look into one of those..

 

[saabgoblin]

Well, if it's any consolation, your post rekindled my interest in a E1e so much so that I just bought one, an E1e Winelight but a rose is a rose. I love the power and efficency of leds but after seeing the beam quality and color rendition of a Surefire Incan I don't think that you can go wrong with an E1e.

 

[angelofwar]

Those that have never owned an E1e can't appreciate the throw and flood that this single cell incan put's out. While the flood may not be overly bright, it is big...and this thing throws further than my 2 cell mag...put a red filter on it, and you have the perfect hunting/camping "hush" light...and the construction is rigid as hell!

 

[My3kidsfather]

Those that have never owned an E1e can't appreciate the throw and flood that this single cell incan put's out. While the flood may not be overly bright, it is big...and this thing throws further than my 2 cell mag...put a red filter on it, and you have the perfect hunting/camping "hush" light...and the construction is rigid as hell!

Red filter is interesting for hunting. I had heard that game cannot see green light, hence I had a Alpha C1 fitted with a green filter and a 18650 to walk in in the dark. They cannot see red too?

 

[falkon]

Red doesnt destroy your nightvision

 

[angelofwar]

Red filter is interesting for hunting. I had heard that game cannot see green light, hence I had a Alpha C1 fitted with a green filter and a 18650 to walk in in the dark. They cannot see red too?

SF Filters are the best I've seen...they put out "true-colors"...and the filters "eat" very little of the light. I've never seen a red light that can throw until I put an F05 on my E1E. I've gotten "red" filters from other (I won't name names) flashlight companies that we're border line orange, and orange "red" led's. I use my E1E for finding my way to the bathroom at night, and when I turn it off, I can still see fine in a dark enviroment. If you already have a AA M@g, there filter holders will work on the E1E, and you can try that out before you get an F05 to see if it works for you.