Surefire Lego?

[Size15's]

The bezels are interchangeable, so these are Surefire's original LEGO's!
I have not seen any product/model number on the bezels/heads for these lights.

The standard bezel is Z44-BK (Black) or Z44-HA (Hard Anodised)

 

[djblank87]

Thanks for the reply AzGB! I won't be doing that to my 6P, I was just curious, I run the P61 in my 6P defender for work purposes.

 

[Dizos]

 

[Coop]

My Lego isn't as spectacular as some of the already posted setups, but what the heck

E-Series
- KL4
- L4 body (=E2x)
- ExE bezel
- Z57 Clicky
- Twisty switch (can't remember the type)
- Fivemega Strion bulb holder
- Various lamp assemblies
- AWs Protected 17670 Li-Ions

I also have an E2C converter (allows use of a C-series Bezel on E-series body), which brings me to:

C-Series
- Z44 Bezel
- Leef 1x18650 body
- Z58 tailcap
- Z48 tailcap
- Leefgrip
- WE 3.7v Lamp assembly
- WE Cree drop-in
- AWs protected 18650 Li-Ions

I used to have a KL1, E1x body and another Z57 too, but unfortunately, I lost it at Disneyland Resort Paris

 

[matthewdanger]

My latest lego:
6P Bezel
6PD Body
Lighthound Cree Module
Detonator
LOTC with McGizmo 2-Stage guts

 

[Monocrom]

Can any of you tell me what type of output I'd get with a KL5 head on a 9P body?

 

[flash_bang]

hey guys, any way I can avoid cross-threading my G2? I'm having an absurdly hard time threading the tailcap. BTW, if I end crossthreading the tailcap and the G2, which one's damaged, the G2 body or the tailcap?
Thanks much,
Flash

 

[flash_bang]

I've got a Sportsman's warehouse about 5 minutes away from me here in Phoenix, I'm going to be using my SF's alot as were moving so i'm going to get a few carded 2 packs of SF123A's and i might get a Z59 while i'm there. What are they charging? and how has the Z59 been so far?

Z59's been awesome, kinda easy to crossthread when putting it on a G2 though might end up getting an Al body and a bezel to fix that problem :devil:

the two packs of 123's are priced pretty crappy at the sportsman's warehouse near me, 3.99 for any two pack of 123. at GI Joe's, just a couple minutes down the road from the warehouse, though, are two packs of SF123's that are 3.60 for two.

the selection of lights and accessories are pretty good at the sportsman's warehouse near me, lots of E-series, and around 40% is C series and M Series. A couple things(like the E2L) is 125, not 129, but everything else is pretty much MSRP. I figure, I might as well buy accessories there, I don't feel like waiting till christmas with my big order

Toodles,
Flash

 

[matthewdanger]

The KL5s output will not increase on a 9V body. However, runtime will increase.

If you cross thread a tailcap on a G2 either the tailcap, the body, or mayb even both may be messed up. If it is a replacement metal tailcap then the body is the one that is likely messed up. To avoid cross-threading simple turn the tailcap backwards as if loosening until you hear or feel it drop into place very lightly. This will align the threads perfectly. Now tighten the tailcap.

Edit - I see that you are talking about a Z59 - if you are crossthreading a Z59 then you will mess up your G2 body.

 

[Monocrom]

The KL5s output will not increase on a 9V body. However, runtime will increse.

Thanks for replying!

 

[flash_bang]

If you cross thread a tailcap on a G2 either the tailcap, the body, or maybe even both may be messed up. If it is a replacement metal tailcap then the body is the one that is likely messed up. To avoid cross-threading simple turn the tailcap backwards as if loosening until you hear or feel it drop into place very lightly. This will align the threads perfectly. Now tighten the tailcap.

Edit - I see that you are talking about a Z59 - if you are crossthreading a Z59 then you will mess up your G2 body.

Okay, I will press the Z59 onto the body, and then unscrew the tailcap till it drops into place, this seems to be the most reliable way of putting the tailcap on. I think because this is such a PITA, I will hopefully acquire a Leef body of some sort and then give my G2 back its old tailcap.

Thanks,
Flash

 

[Paladin]

The KL5s output will not increase on a 9V body. However, runtime will increase.

Remember though, that on two primary cells you get an hour, with three cells 1.5 hours; I consider that one cell per half hour either way. My favorite KL5 host is the Leef 2x18650 for run time and free lumens. As mentioned no significant increase in output was noted.

Paladin

 

[Chronos]

A couple of other interesting alternatives... search on gnarmin's U2 shorty, which led me to play with a K2 shorty.

A couple of others I had:

KT2 + W-bin tower module + M2 body + TnC Detonator + SW02

Custom KL3 + Leef 2x18500 body + "fatty" SW01 (still have this one)

Custom KL2 + Leef 1x18650 body + "fatty" SW01

 

[lightr07]

Z59's been awesome, kinda easy to crossthread when putting it on a G2 though might end up getting an Al body and a bezel to fix that problem :devil:

the two packs of 123's are priced pretty crappy at the sportsman's warehouse near me, 3.99 for any two pack of 123. at GI Joe's, just a couple minutes down the road from the warehouse, though, are two packs of SF123's that are 3.60 for two.

the selection of lights and accessories are pretty good at the sportsman's warehouse near me, lots of E-series, and around 40% is C series and M Series. A couple things(like the E2L) is 125, not 129, but everything else is pretty much MSRP. I figure, I might as well buy accessories there, I don't feel like waiting till christmas with my big order

Toodles,
Flash

I might get a Z59 for one of my G2's. My local store has the entire (almost) SureFire line. They have every light except for the M4 and L7 Lumamax. I also got to hold the all mighty M6 for a few minutes (Oddly enough the guy who usually works at the counter also likes flashlights. :devil Although trust me, Here its very hard to find 123A's in a retail store for under 13.00 for two. So that 3.99 for two (carded) is a steal. Which is probably why they have 5 of the wire "hooks" with just those at 3.99.

When you were there did you happen to see any of there new Cree Lights? I'm thinking of getting one soon so it would be nice if they had them.

(P.S Remember! Christmas is only 4 month's away now! )

 

[yaesumofo]

Here is some of my surefire lego to look at:
A matched Pair. Even the beams are matched. No mean feat with the KL4.

Somthing else for hot wire fun:

More KL4 fun:

Yaesumofo

 

[PetesTactical]

Here is my only current LEGO.

C2 body and tailcap with 6PD bezzle, Malkoff P60 drop in, AW protected RCR123's. I love this light!

 

[flash_bang]

awesome, pete!
I think my lego will be M2 bezel on my G2, then when I get my 6PL, it'll be the M2 bezel on the 6PL and Z59 on the 6PL, then I will have the stock G2, but with the 6PL bezel.
HAGO,
Flash

 

[flash_bang]

well, I decided to go with an M2 HA-NAT bezel sometime, with a P91, mount that on my G2 maybe. Put that on my L5 when I get that if I feel like I need incan light.
This is what I have so far:
G2 with an FM35 red filter and Z59 clicky tailcap

yay, finally some lego that I can post!

HAGO,
Flash

 

[AzGB]

That's a great build, I did the exact same thing a few months back (sans RCR's) and specifically ordered a Malkoff for it. That drop-in was half the reason I did the extensive Beamshot shootoff. One of the best overall packages I've got. Nicely done... :thumbsup:

Here is my only current LEGO.

C2 body and tailcap with 6PD bezzle, Malkoff P60 drop in, AW protected RCR123's. I love this light!

 

[NickDrak]

Excellent thread goin on here!

Mine is a M2 bezel with a Malkoff P60 drop-in, Leef 3xCR123/2x18500 body and Leef grip, along with a SF Z48 clicky. I use regular (AmondoTech "Titanium") CR123's. This is the light I drive around with on-duty "At the ready" right between my legs for when I need to light someone/something up real quick!