Surefire M6 SMO/LOP reflector to increase THROW

[ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond]

Mettee,

I agree with Alan that you need to have a locked camera mount and fixed aperture and speed.

I would refer to DM51's M6 shootout thread as it really is THE definitive thread for both M6 bulb options and great comparative beamshots:https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/230857

You don't need to spend a lot of money on a mount or anything. IIRC DM51 used his wife cutting board or something like that.

 

[Mettee]

Ok, thanks guys.

I have already lined up a DSLR camera and a tripod. So that is covered. I was thinking if I can, I will provide some zoom shots as well since some of the pictures I already took its hard for the eye and camera to get a good shot of the farthest throw. I was also hoping to hit an object so that we could all see the amount of light that hits the object. Beam shots can be misleading, we all know that.

More than likely I will do a few shots at a closer object that shows the increase in hot spot as well, that should give some feedback. Something at say 100 yards that is easily lit by both reflectors, but shows the difference in the two.

I will be working on this over the next two days and nights, thank god for days off so I can work :mecry:

And you are welcome, I am having fun...this should be pretty cool. We have some improvements that will make it into production units. They will increase performance over this reflector I am testing. So likely you will not be disappointed.

 

[Mettee]

Ok, the beam shots went well everyone. I was able to test for heat with the 1909 and it did very well. Not one problem to speak of, and performance was great with all bulbs. You can really see the beam pattern in the pictures. Once I upload the images today after work I will post them to the 2nd reply in the thread, so look for that later.

I will more than likely do some more long distance throw shots this weekend just to give definitive throw numbers(distance).

 

[Mettee]

Sorry guys none of the shots turned out I have to re shoot them all. I am not a happy camper right now.

Anyone have any good settings to suggest for a Canon EOS 40D.....

 

[alantch]

Mettee, what was wrong with the shots? If you could show a few shots here for us to see what possibly went wrong, then we might be able to suggest methods and possible settings.

 

[Mettee]

Here are are 5 shots. 1 control, a back to back 1185 stock vs SMO, and another back to back 1909 stock vs SMO.
They are very blurry and noisy, they still show the performance, they are just not what I want to post.They looked
awesome on the camera screan. I used TV mode, which is to my knowledge "shutter priority mode". I am a perfectionist
so I wont settle on these. I will eventually redo them all, and probably at another location, I needed another 100 yards
distance to really show what I wanted to. And also I want to take more time to focus the bulbs and center the hot spot.
Dont laugh at my pictures please it was my first time with this camera.

This is 200 confirmed yards. Another CPF member attended and helped out, if he wants to chime in at all he can :wave:

Control

SMO with 1185 run off 3x17650

Stock with 1185 run off 3x17650

SMO with 1909 run off 6 IMR in MB20

Stock with 1909 run off 6 IMR in MB20

ETA: Park, the large green tree that is closest is at 100 yards. The house and huge tree in back are at 200 yards.

 

[one2tim]

ouch the smo with 1909 picture almost looks like medium output setting compared to the stock 1909

 

[Mettee]

Its all in the beam, look at the hot spot, that hot spot would have gone another 100 yards. Next shots I take will show that better. The stock looks awesome, but all that light is right there in front of you.

 

[wquiles]

Having done LOTS of these night pictures in 6 years, 3 tips, since all of those are out of focus due to the auto-focus feature:

- you probably did already, but make sure you use a tripod on the camera

- set focus to manual, and set the focus ring at infinity.

- use the 2 (or 3) second timer. That way, when you press the shutter to take the picture, even if you move the camera, the 2-3 second delay will steady the camera/tripod to give you a nicer "steady" setup.

Will

 

[Mettee]

Thanks Will. I did have it set to manual, but I have no idea how to set focus to infinity. I had it on a tripod, but like you said I was clicking the shutter button. I could not find the timer function

I did try and line the camera up days before to practice, that just didnt happen. I have another go at it.

 

[jellydonut]

ouch the smo with 1909 picture almost looks like medium output setting compared to the stock 1909

You didn't notice that the trees in the distance are lit up more then? The whole point of the smooth reflector is to increase throw, and even though the pics are blurry it seems to have worked pretty well.

 

[wquiles]

Thanks Will. I did have it set to manual, but I have no idea how to set focus to infinity.

When you had the Canon set to manual, 99% of the time that is only for the exposure - so "you" determine the aperture of the lens, and more importantly the time of the exposure.

But the manual focus is a completely and independent setting in the Canon. Even if you set the exposure to manual, your Canon continues to try to do auto-focus 100% of the time, which at night, with very distant targets (like you are attempting to do) is simply asking too much of the camera.

Please review the manual on your camera and find out how to turn off the auto-focus feature, so that you can leave the lens in full manual focus, and then manually set it to infinity - you will see the dramatic improvement in your pictures as the focus will be spot-on perfect. And in your case, with a Canon system, the manual focus might be a simple sliding switch on the lens itself.

If you can't find the timer function (should be in the manual as well), just practice to be "extremely" gentle with the shutter button, as in these multi-second exposures any small shake/movement translates into out-of-focus pictures.

And don't feel bad - any new camera has its own "tricks" to master, and today's digital cameras have so many freaking features that too often it is hard to find the simplest of features. Don't give up, and play/try new things - in no time you will be taking these night beamshots perfectly

Will

 

[Mettee]

When you had the Canon set to manual, 99% of the time that is only for the exposure - so "you" determine the aperture of the lens, and more importantly the time of the exposure.

But the manual focus is a completely and independent setting in the Canon. Even if you set the exposure to manual, your Canon continues to try to do auto-focus 100% of the time, which at night, with very distant targets (like you are attempting to do) is simply asking too much of the camera.

Please review the manual on your camera and find out how to turn off the auto-focus feature, so that you can leave the lens in full manual focus, and then manually set it to infinity - you will see the dramatic improvement in your pictures as the focus will be spot-on perfect. And in your case, with a Canon system, the manual focus might be a simple sliding switch on the lens itself.

If you can't find the timer function (should be in the manual as well), just practice to be "extremely" gentle with the shutter button, as in these multi-second exposures any small shake/movement translates into out-of-focus pictures.

And don't feel bad - any new camera has its own "tricks" to master, and today's digital cameras have so many freaking features that too often it is hard to find the simplest of features. Don't give up, and play/try new things - in no time you will be taking these night beamshots perfectly

Will

A man with experience right there. That is pretty much what I ran up against. I was able to find the AF/MF switch, but was unable to set focus to infinity. There is a dual focus setting, which is used in sports photography but I could not figure that out either.

But in any case, a buddy of mine is going to help with new shots...so I wont be behind the camera this time He made the same recomendations as you Will so thank you.

 

[JetskiMark]

Thank you for the beam shots.

One more photo tip. If the lens you're using is image stabilized, turn off the I.S. when using a tripod.

Here is an explanation.

 

[Mettee]

7:00pm to 11:45pm taking beam shots and none turned out right. I would have to photo shop them from the RAW image and I want to avoid that. I took one shot with my TX5 after and it turned out perfect. Just like the one I took previously in the thread next to the canal.

So I am going to simplify it, and use that camera(TX5) because it just works.

Thanks Will and Alan for the suggestions. Maybe someday I will try again with a fancy camera. Alan I am still going to get you the lens info, I will be in touch.

But hands down, the beam from this SMO reflector out throws the stock, with a brighter larger hot spot, and usable spill.

Surface coating is still going strong after quite a beating from the 1909 and 1185. Light was to the point I could almost not hold it....more to come.

 

[Mettee]

simple, easy, and safe to use on the bezel...AND 3/8 drive.

 

[alantch]

Nice one! Is it made of black delrin?

 

[Mettee]

Fiber/glass reinforced I think....yeah.

 

[Mettee]

Dont ask me how I did this I have no idea

Order:

Control
1185 SMO
1185 STK
1909 SMO
1909 STK

 

[UnderTheWeepingMoon]

Very impressive. That's even more of an improvement than I expected.