Surefire Milky Tranzilla!

[DaFABRICATA]

Looks Very Nice!!!
The tint is deffinetly different than the Seouls or Crees, I'd really like to see it in person.
Thats a Lot of Milky Lights!!

Funny, I too just noticed how few lights I have that have been left stock. About 80% of my collection has beens modded.

I'd like to get my hands on some K2's.....anyone know where I can buy some?:wave:

 

[ttran97]

Very nice. The beamshots convinced me. I tend to prefer the Seouls to the Crees, but that K2-TFFC is much better. - With the dual driver, I suppose.

Sell it to me. :devil:

What would you recommend for a milky mod to an old E1L?

For these 1-cell lights, there are a few options you can consider. But it comes down to what your preference is. These are just the basic options that I know about...if you want more info, you'll have to contact milkyspit yourself.

First, pick your LED: Seoul, Cree, or K2-TFFC.

• Benefit of the Seoul P4: smooth, cool white beam. Downside: not as high lumen output.
• Benefit of the Cree: higher lumen count. Downside: beam not as smooth, tint can vary...some are nice and white, some are greenish.
• Benefit of the K2-TFFC: warmer tint than the other two; high lumen output. Downside: harder to get a hold of, so may require longer build-time.

Then, pick your driver board: Mad Max Plus or Acorn

• Benefit of MM+: can use rechargeable batteries; simple one mode (on/off). Downside: only one mode.
• Benefit of Acorn Driver: multiple modes...the default is 4 levels of brightness, but milkyspit can reprogram it to however many levels you want. I would recommend 2 levels are sufficient...such as a really low and then full brightness. Can also use rechargeables. Downside: too many levels can be annoying to click to. It's a double-tap to change the levels, too.

I'm sure there are more benefits and downsides...but you get the gist of things. And like I said...it comes down to your preferences with levels, tint, brightness, runtime.

 

[rourtex23]

how much to get get milky tranzilla?

 

[milkyspit]

how much to get get milky tranzilla?

Hi rourtex, that depends on whether you have a head for the upgrade already or I would be supplying the entire head. PM me here or at CPF Marketplace or send me email with your needs and I'll get you some ballpark pricing. Hope that helps.

 

[rourtex23]

email sent

 

[ttran97]

how much to get get milky tranzilla?

This mod was a very reasonable price.

I'm planning on getting the M6 mod with 7 Cree's. I don't really need two kidneys anyway...

 

[WadeF]

I'm confused as to how it can be 285 lumens and run 1 hr and 25 minutes on a 17670? I thought the K2 needed more juice than a Cree Q5 to get the same output.

 

[ttran97]

I'm confused as to how it can be 285 lumens and run 1 hr and 25 minutes on a 17670? I thought the K2 needed more juice than a Cree Q5 to get the same output.

There are two MM+ drivers in there. Maybe that has something to do with it? I didn't actually measure the light output, so maybe it dimmed more than I could perceive with my eye towards the end of the runtime. Milkyspit estimated the lumen output to be between 225 and 285 lumen.

 

[milkyspit]

Wade, there are a couple things at work here... first, the output probably trailed off a bit toward the later part of the runtime but not enough to be visible to the human eye, especially when comparing outputs over a roughly 90 minute time period... second, it's unlikely that a 17670 was able to drive the dual circuits at full power (which is why I labeled the light as having max overall output anywhere between 225-285 lumens... depends on the ability of the power source to deliver the needed current without voltage sag)... taken together and compared against the 1600mAh capacity (if memory serves) of a recent AW 17670 protected rechargeable, I have no doubt that Tung actually did see 1h25m or so of bright output. Was it the full 285 lumens for the full runtime? I doubt it. Was it consistent enough in its brightness to satisfy Tung's eyes that it was still pumping out the bright output he expected to see? Probably.

As I'd mentioned farther up the thread, I personally would consider an 18650 or even a 26670 cell as the most appropriate power source for this head... that being said, though, one of the virtues of the MM+ drivers is their forgiving nature: they'll happily run as hard as they can with pretty much whatever power source one throws at them. I find that a great operating characteristic for lights to be used in applications like night hikes, weekend camping, and similar. :thumbsup:

 

[ttran97]

Wade, there are a couple things at work here... first, the output probably trailed off a bit toward the later part of the runtime but not enough to be visible to the human eye, especially when comparing outputs over a roughly 90 minute time period... second, it's unlikely that a 17670 was able to drive the dual circuits at full power (which is why I labeled the light as having max overall output anywhere between 225-285 lumens... depends on the ability of the power source to deliver the needed current without voltage sag)... taken together and compared against the 1600mAh capacity (if memory serves) of a recent AW 17670 protected rechargeable, I have no doubt that Tung actually did see 1h25m or so of bright output. Was it the full 285 lumens for the full runtime? I doubt it. Was it consistent enough in its brightness to satisfy Tung's eyes that it was still pumping out the bright output he expected to see? Probably.

As I'd mentioned farther up the thread, I personally would consider an 18650 or even a 26670 cell as the most appropriate power source for this head... that being said, though, one of the virtues of the MM+ drivers is their forgiving nature: they'll happily run as hard as they can with pretty much whatever power source one throws at them. I find that a great operating characteristic for lights to be used in applications like night hikes, weekend camping, and similar. :thumbsup:

Hi milkyspit. Thanks for clearing things up. I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to these battery and electrical issues. I just know that this is one great light and I use it nightly. The color rendition is great and the leaves on trees don't look washed out or anything.

You've mentioned before that you think an 18650 would be best, but how could I get that done in an E2e body? Would you be able to bore out the inside of my E2e even more? If so, then I'll gladly send in the body. Please let me know. Thanks!

 

[milkyspit]

You've mentioned before that you think an 18650 would be best, but how could I get that done in an E2e body? Would you be able to bore out the inside of my E2e even more? If so, then I'll gladly send in the body. Please let me know. Thanks!

You're right, E2E body won't take an 18650. However, both Leef and MirageMan have made 18650 bodies capable of accepting an E-series head... Leef's uses a C-series tailcap, while MM's body uses an E-series tailcap. That would do the trick!

 

[Burgess]

Wow ! ! !


MilkySpit, you are simply incredible. :bow:



This is a Flashaholic's Dreamland. :twothumbs

_

 

[Mags]

So just how hard is this LED being driven? 2 MM boards so Im guessing somewhere between 1.200-1.600 A?

 

[milkyspit]

So just how hard is this LED being driven? 2 MM boards so Im guessing somewhere between 1.200-1.600 A?

Yes, that sounds right. The design target was 1.5A or so, but that will vary some based on the power source, how fresh the cell is, temperature of the light, and so on.

 

[ttran97]

So I can't find any of the 18650 bodies for sale and they're out of stock at Lighthound. I tried putting 2 primaries in and it is definitely brighter than before...so maybe now it's reaching its full 285 lumen potential. My question is...will this be bad for the driver/emitter? I'm hoping not! It's like an instant kick to this already great light!

 

[milkyspit]

So I can't find any of the 18670 bodies for sale and they're out of stock at Lighthound. I tried putting 2 primaries in and it is definitely brighter than before...so maybe now it's reaching its full 285 lumen potential. My question is...will this be bad for the driver/emitter? I'm hoping not! It's like an instant kick to this already great light!

Tung, I had a reply ready to post and somehow lost it. My bad!

Let me try again...

You're driving the system (batteries, circuitry, emitter) well beyond what it was designed to handle... and for that reason I would imagine something not to be very happy, and outright fail. When would this happen? No idea... could be tonight, tomorrow, perhaps 10 years from now. It's hard to tell.

On the other hand, your configuration does seem to work and apparently you like the results... maybe this is one of those 'good til it's gone' type of builds, where you enjoy it for as long as it lasts, then we make the necessary repairs. I doubt whatever breaks would be all that expensive to fix.

So you can look at it either way I guess! One of those glass half-empty or half-full situations.

 

[Mags]

Hey milky just wondering, which would throw farther in the tranzilla setup, the K2 or a Cree? And does the seoul put out a much wider beam than the K2?

 

[milkyspit]

Hey milky just wondering, which would throw farther in the tranzilla setup, the K2 or a Cree? And does the seoul put out a much wider beam than the K2?

Mags, it's tough to beat the Cree mated with that rev2 SureFire TIR optic and bumped up quite a bit in max output. Truly impressive! oo:

That said, there's no shame in a reflectored K2T, either, and the beam may be applicable to a wider range of uses... really nice balance in that one.

 

[ttran97]

I finally got my hands on a cool 18650 body for this Tranzilla! Man, it sure is bright!

 

[Bullzeyebill]

That's a TranquillityBase, TB, 18650 body. I have two of them and they are just great. E series head and tail.

Bill