Thrunite Lynx (1x18650, XM-L2) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!

[430Scuderia]

Momentary firefly it is for me then! Interesting to hear others think its only natural to increase in brightness as you turn right as well.

Just to be clear according to their website, it appears the momentary switch position location has Max output only with no provision for user defined adjustable levels like the other 3 positions.

 

[rickypanecatyl]

Oops! For about 1/2 second I thought, "Oh that's no big deal! I'll just hold the light upside down and then I've got momentary max all the way right like I was hoping!" I need some sleep

 

[Glenn7]

I don't quite understand peoples problem of where the momentary position is as it makes sense to me. I've always changed the settings with my pointer finger and maybe the bottom half of my thumb, that way the tip of my thumb is always at the ready to press/activate the light making it quicker IMO - if you are using just your thumb only to change modes then it makes it slower to turn the light on "if we're talking tactical"

So for me when I grab the light by the tail end, the anti-roll ring is between my index and pointer finger automatically resting my pointer finger on the rotary part is just natural (for me) like a normal dial I would use my pointer finger as it naturally curls that way then using my thumb to push the button on, again only my opinion but 9 times out of ten high stress tactical needs high right now! and if like someone here said fire fly is what they need for tactical map reading or escape then dial fully the other way.
Another way to look at it is if you are looking at the light side on and using your pointer finger then the dial is the right way, up for high and down for low (suppose its just different spacial thinking - like being able to read a map upside down)......

 

[bluemax_1]

I don't quite understand peoples problem of where the momentary position is as it makes sense to me. I've always changed the settings with my pointer finger and maybe the bottom half of my thumb, that way the tip of my thumb is always at the ready to press/activate the light making it quicker IMO - if you are using just your thumb only to change modes then it makes it slower to turn the light on "if we're talking tactical"

So for me when I grab the light by the tail end, the anti-roll ring is between my index and pointer finger automatically resting my pointer finger on the rotary part is just natural (for me) like a normal dial I would use my pointer finger as it naturally curls that way then using my thumb to push the button on, again only my opinion but 9 times out of ten high stress tactical needs high right now! and if like someone here said fire fly is what they need for tactical map reading or escape then dial fully the other way.
Another way to look at it is if you are looking at the light side on and using your pointer finger then the dial is the right way, up for high and down for low (suppose its just different spacial thinking - like being able to read a map upside down)......

Out of curiosity, if the bolded line is NOT a typo, which finger do you use to point? If we're looking at the right hand, palm-side down, from left to right, we have the thumb, index finger (which is also commonly called the pointer finger by many people), middle finger, ring finger and little finger.

I also like the positioning of the rotary dial on the Scorpion/Lynx on the back end where the tailswitch is. With a bezel down carry position, the dial can be rotated quickly to the desired position before turning it on. With the light held in a reverse grip (thumb on tailswitch, the dial can easily be rotated with the index/pointer finger or index finger + thumb. I really like that you can pre-stage the Scorpion (and presumably the Lynx as well).

I agree with GlennZ, for most folks, generally when you REALLY need light NOW, you need as much of it as possible, so position 1 being Momentary Maximum makes sense for tactical usage. The way mine will be programmed when I get it is #1 Momentary Max (factory set non-programmable evidently, but I would still have it set this way anyway), #2 Constant On Maximum, #3 Constant On Low/Med, #4 Tactical Strobe. That way, in an emergency, I either crank full counterclockwise for Momentary Max or full clockwise for Strobe. The other levels, I can take my time to select.


Max

 

[Glenn7]

Bluemax_1 - yes finger mix up :duh2: I was trying to mean middle finger below anti-roll ring and pointer above anti-roll ring then thumb on button :thumbsup: (or I have 2x index fingers on my hand :nana:

Just how you will set your Lynx up Mr Bluemax is exactly how mine will be, no guess work.

 

[430Scuderia]

I don't quite understand peoples problem of where the momentary position is as it makes sense to me. I've always changed the settings with my pointer finger and maybe the bottom half of my thumb, that way the tip of my thumb is always at the ready to press/activate the light making it quicker IMO - if you are using just your thumb only to change modes then it makes it slower to turn the light on "if we're talking tactical"

So for me when I grab the light by the tail end, the anti-roll ring is between my index and pointer finger automatically resting my pointer finger on the rotary part is just natural (for me) like a normal dial I would use my pointer finger as it naturally curls that way then using my thumb to push the button on, again only my opinion but 9 times out of ten high stress tactical needs high right now! and if like someone here said fire fly is what they need for tactical map reading or escape then dial fully the other way.
Another way to look at it is if you are looking at the light side on and using your pointer finger then the dial is the right way, up for high and down for low (suppose its just different spacial thinking - like being able to read a map upside down)......

The Scorpion V2/V3 had the correct mode order ala the original Gladius light in which these lights are copied from. The Lynx should have been the same. I recall an article about the Gladius a long time ago and it discussed why they had it in that specific order. Can't seem to find it now though.

 

[rickypanecatyl]

The Scorpion V2/V3 had the correct mode order ala the original Gladius light in which these lights are copied from. The Lynx should have been the same. I recall an article about the Gladius a long time ago and it discussed why they had it in that specific order. Can't seem to find it now though.

Is there a difference between V1 & V2/3? My scorpion L to R was lock, Medium*, Firefly, strobe, max. They used to advertise that Medium mode as infinitely variable but I think they realized it ramped too slowly and should be considered a user programmable mode between 8 and 80 % max power.
I'm really excited on the lynx to have something between Firefly and the lowest variable - that's good news!

Sent from my C5502 using Tapatalk

 

[430Scuderia]

Is there a difference between V1 & V2/3? My scorpion L to R was lock, Medium*, Firefly, strobe, max. They used to advertise that Medium mode as infinitely variable but I think they realized it ramped too slowly and should be considered a user programmable mode between 8 and 80 % max power.
I'm really excited on the lynx to have something between Firefly and the lowest variable - that's good news!

Sent from my C5502 using Tapatalk

From L - R:
Original Gladius = lockout, user adjustable, momentary strobe, momentary max.
V1 Scorpion = lockout, firefly, user adjustable, momentary max, momentary strobe.
V2/3 Scorpion = lockout, user adjustable, firefly, momentary strobe, momentary max.
I should clarify that I consider V2 as having the xml-T6 and V3 the xml-U2 but with the same operational modes.

As you're aware, Thrunite added the firefly modes which I personally think is useless. Good that the Lynx is user adjustable now.

 

[Dennis]

I just received a Production model Lynx, supposedly the first one to a USA customer per Thrunite. I have owned the original Gladius, Scorpion V1, and V2 and have always thought the UI was second only to SF push thru two level lights in pure Tactical usefulness for Duty LE use. Of course, the twisty multi-level UI also has many advantages but I won't go into any details as everyone here already knows them!

Initial Impressions:
- Solidly built including the new metal tailcap
- Survived my multiple 5' drop test to carpet
- Out-throws a Scorpion V2 with turbo head
- Don't know why Max is now on the counter clockwise/left end. But easy enough to get used to if I stop using the Scorpion...
- Twisty switch is smoother/harder to actuate than the plastic one. Added skateboard tape just as I did with the plastic one.
- Wish strobe could be momentary like the Scorpion
- Momentary "return to off" switch movement is slower than with the Scorpion, not sure if it is due to a weaker spring, slower inertia due to weight, friction, or whatever.
- "Triple Click To Lock" is tricky to do, but I may not be used to it yet. Luckily it does not work in Momentary. Unluckily, it returns to the mode it was set in regardless of the new switch position which requires an extra press to get when coming out of lockout. The old twisty lock was definitely hard to use but I could ignore it. Unfortunately, I already accidentally activated the triple click lock a couple times doing things like trying to use a regular mode like momentary.

Perfect Dream Changes
- Low to High Clockwise like everyone else!
- Momentary Strobe as well
- Stronger switch spring for harder activation and quicker de-activation
- Neutral to warm tint!
- No lockout. Loosening/tightening tailcap much quicker/easier/positive than a triple click.

Overall after only a couple hours my impression is that the build quality, all metal switch, and output make this a better light than any previous. Albeit not perfect :-( If I can work out how to avoid accidental activation on my vest I will give it a chance on duty.

Dennis.

 

[rickypanecatyl]

Perfect Dream Changes
- Low to High Clockwise like everyone else!
- Momentary Strobe as well
- Stronger switch spring for harder activation and quicker de-activation
- Neutral to warm tint!
- No lockout. Loosening/tightening tailcap much quicker/easier/positive than a triple click.

Overall after only a couple hours my impression is that the build quality, all metal switch, and output make this a better light than any previous. Albeit not perfect :-( If I can work out how to avoid accidental activation on my vest I will give it a chance on duty.

Dennis.

I realize we don't all agree on the low to high clockwise, but I'm sure with you Dennis on that one. I also can feel for all the manufacturers like Thrunite who are trying to keep all of us happy! (LEFT should be max!! NO!!! RIGHT should be max!) Personally I've got so many $80-$130 flashlights that I got because they were ALMOST what I was looking for but not quite - it would save me lots of money and reduce lots of clutter to be able to mod the closest light I have to what I am looking for which is this one. I'd be happy to pay a modder if they were able to swap that momentary max to the opposite side. Perhaps they could even add a momentary turbo?

I'm curious if enough of us wanted that if Thrunite would be willing to do that for us? Just throwing something out there - how about for a charge (I don't want/expect nor believe that anyone can do anything worthwhile for free) Thrunite you could custom set up a light for us? Swap momentary Max to the opposite side of the dial? Add a secondary momentary for strobe? (I don't personally want that but know some do!)

As far as the stronger switch spring to prevent accidental activation - I'm just guessing here so correct me if I'm wrong, I can't imagine anyone being against that? Certainly anyone that can bench press over 8 ounces finds it more than easy to activate? I position mine for fast grabbing in a pocket close to where my fingers naturally swing while walking - an accidental brush is enough to activate it. When I carry it I'm told a couple times a day by strangers my pocket is glowing. Because of its location its much easier for outsiders to see.

I love this light with the turbohead as well which in my opinion is a fantastic beam pattern. Another improvement I really doubt anyone would be against would be to toughen up the turbohead lens. I had several lens break and many others did as well. Though many with the turbohead did not have problems with the lens shattering I can't see any of them being against having a stronger lens - unless it was because they were positive they wouldn't need it and it added $5 to the cost or cut out 2% of the OTF lumens?

FWIW to Thrunite I was pretty upset with your $35 lens replacement fee coupled with your knowledge that your lens was weak. If you don't want to ire customers, don't intentionally try to make a profit on a weakness design flaw! (Though I do suppose that is what they call the whole Gillette razor sales philosophy... it's just they are not advertising their razors as "tactical".)

 

[tubed]

i'm confused.
I thought this new light (essentially) had 4 user-programmable modes. that what it looks like in Selfbuilt's review.
so it seems you could put high and low on either side.

 

[bluemax_1]

i'm confused.
I thought this new light (essentially) had 4 user-programmable modes. that what it looks like in Selfbuilt's review.
so it seems you could put high and low on either side.

The production models have 4 modes. Momentary Maximum on the most counterclockwise position, followed by 3 user programmable modes as you turn the knob clockwise.


Max

 

[430Scuderia]

Dennis, thanks for your review. I sincerely hope Thrunite is listening and will implement the necessary improvements as recommended from REAL Leos in the next Lynx V2.

 

[Dennis]

I just received a Production model Lynx, supposedly the first one to a USA customer per Thrunite. I have owned the original Gladius, Scorpion V1, and V2 and have always thought the UI was second only to SF push thru two level lights in pure Tactical usefulness for Duty LE use. Of course, the twisty multi-level UI also has many advantages but I won't go into any details as everyone here already knows them!

Initial Impressions:
- Solidly built including the new metal tailcap
- Survived my multiple 5' drop test to carpet
- Out-throws a Scorpion V2 with turbo head
- Don't know why Max is now on the counter clockwise/left end. But easy enough to get used to if I stop using the Scorpion...
- Twisty switch is smoother/harder to actuate than the plastic one. Added skateboard tape just as I did with the plastic one.
- Wish strobe could be momentary like the Scorpion
- Momentary "return to off" switch movement is slower than with the Scorpion, not sure if it is due to a weaker spring, slower inertia due to weight, friction, or whatever.
- "Triple Click To Lock" is tricky to do, but I may not be used to it yet. Luckily it does not work in Momentary. Unluckily, it returns to the mode it was set in regardless of the new switch position which requires an extra press to get when coming out of lockout. The old twisty lock was definitely hard to use but I could ignore it. Unfortunately, I already accidentally activated the triple click lock a couple times doing things like trying to use a regular mode like momentary.

Perfect Dream Changes
- Low to High Clockwise like everyone else!
- Momentary Strobe as well
- Stronger switch spring for harder activation and quicker de-activation
- Neutral to warm tint!
- No lockout. Loosening/tightening tailcap much quicker/easier/positive than a triple click.

Overall after only a couple hours my impression is that the build quality, all metal switch, and output make this a better light than any previous. Albeit not perfect :-( If I can work out how to avoid accidental activation on my vest I will give it a chance on duty.

Dennis.

After a week a use I have a couple more observations:

- The user selectable modes needs some sort of "lock" mechanism, and a way to select momentary/constant. It is too easy to change modes when clicking around just trying to get light. Previously, user selectable was limited to one mode and that made it less prone to failure. Now 3/4 modes will get you messed up if you happen to "press" only and not just click.

- The all metal swtich/turning mechanism started binding up when applying side pressure when using only a thumb to twist. This was not an issue with previous plastic switch rings. This was rectified with a shot of silicone spray. However, how long will that last? Will there be buildup that cannot be cleaned out?

Although I love the idea of the UI, the Lynx definitely needs a few more tweaks before it is an ideal "Duty" light. I have no argument that it works well for an enthusiast, but as an enthusiast and practical LE user the downfalls of this light currently outweigh the great output and build quality.

Dennis.

 

[tubed]

arggh!
i've been searching hard for one-handed pocket thrower with no glitches.
thought this was the one.
there's always next year

 

[rickypanecatyl]

Thanks for the feedback/update Dennis! I sure hope Thrunite takes it seriously and continues to refine this "potentially amazing light!"

My dream light would be this UI but with surefire's 4 way clicky switch on the back - off/momentary/click for on/past on for instant "thumb access" to max.

Looking at the control ring on the Nitecore SRT 7 I was wondering if it would be possible to do something like that only slide it all the back to the back of the battery tube, put indents on it so that it could be easily spun with the thumb.

 

[Ernst from Germany]

Thank You for the Test of the Thrunite Lynx.Now I must decide between the Thrunite Lynx and the Nitecore SRT 7. Very difficult!!
Ernst

 

[rickypanecatyl]

Another question... does anyone know... is the technology basically the same in the gladius/scorpion/sup/lynx as it is in the nitecore SRT series or sunway man V series?

Is there any reason in a light like the SRT 7 you couldn't move the control ring back almost to the back of the light to enable you to change it with your thumb like we do on the lynx/scorpion?

 

[kj2]

I've the Lynx at the moment, for review too. Some features I like, and there are things I don't like.
Biggest 'error' I find, is the stainless steel bezel. This bezel creates a 'rainbow' at the end of the spill. When I take the bezel off, it's gone.

 

[yalskey]

In October of 2012, I sent 5 suggestions to ThruNite to improve the Scorpion, and incorporate into the V3 (which I now understand was changed to Lynx).

The following was my first and most important suggestion:
"1. I have noticed that when I pocket-carry the light, sometimes when I take it out to use it, it will NOT turn on. For tactical purposes this could be dangerous. I've found that if the end cap (where you put the batteries in) is just a few degrees turned-loose then the light will NOT turn on. I have to ensure that the end cap piece is fully tightened down or else the light fails on me upon deployment. Even 3 or 4 degrees of loose-twist from snug will cause the light to become deactivated. I would recommend at least a quarter-turn (90 degrees) before the light cuts out... if possible even more."

Any one know if they have fixed this issue with the Lynx?

For those interested, my other 4 suggestions were basically: 2. Make the tailcap+button metal, 3. More aggressive bezel spikes, 4. Eliminate tab alignment on tailcap, and 5. All 4 modes programmable.

...interestingly, ThruNite never responded to my email/suggestions.