ZebraLight H502 XM-L
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I have been really wanting to get the H502_. Lots of uses in mind but things like working under the hood of a car, camping, and just edc come to mind. But one thing I just realized it might be usefull for is supplimental lighting for macro photography. Anyone here into macro photography? It could probably be rigged around the lens easy enough. I am leaning towards the 'D' version but perhaps the C version would be best for photography. I like the more nuetral daylight white though, and they are the same CRI anyhow. Any thoughts?
The d is more neutral and closer to the standard camera flash CCT (5500 K). The c will appear warmer. Actually, since you can correct for either in postprocessing it's not a big deal, but I'd say only get the c if you prefer a warm tint over neutral.
I picked up a H502d and I'm glad I went for this tint.
I am curious about the battery indicator light. It varies from four flashes to one to three and back to four when I test the eneloop. Shouldn't it remain constantly either full or semi depleted? These four tests were done within a minute of each other.
I am curious about the battery indicator light. It varies from four flashes to one to three and back to four when I test the eneloop. Shouldn't it remain constantly either full or semi depleted? These four tests were done within a minute of each other.
sbbsga
Enlightened
Mine gives false readings too. When it does, I clean the contact points at the body-tailcap.
I just purchased an H502 and I'm curious on the actual-on times (not run time). I was planning on using the H502 for night hikes, and I wanted to see how long I can leave it on constantly for (260 lumens and 50 lumens specifically) without getting dangerously hot. It won't be strapped to my head, but on a pals webbing on a chest rig so I'm not concerned about the heat to myself, but whether or not the actual flashlight can handle it.
I apologize: I made a mistake in my short review of H502d on the previous page. The mode I thought to be 20 lm was in fact 10 lm all along! Other than that, my impressions remain the same, and I've got at least a couple friends interested in the model.
50 lumens would barely get it warm. The battery would give out first. Can't say for sure about the 260 lm setting but it's no H600 with its 420 lm for over two hours. I wouldn't worry either way as the body is designed to use most of its surface to dissipate heat; the flashlight itself will handle it just fine.
DIΩDΣ;4021053 said:
I have the d and c version, and for photos I belive the c version would suit you much better. The d is a little to cool, it shows the cool side enough so that it reflects off of stuff. The c shows no reflection, not even on paper.
I have not used my camera in quite some time, I meant to take it with me last friday but forgot. I will try again this friday.
For some reason the reflections come from man made stuff. Could there be a reason for this?
Thanks for the info, I am still deciding. Macro photograph would be just one possible use (not really the main intended use), and I know it isnt ideal but a real ring flash is too pricey for jjust a hobby for me. I just occasionaly like to take pictures of insects and things like that.
I wouldn't worry about it. It will get hot after a few minutes on 260 lumens, but I've run mine (H502D) until it to steped down on it's own more than once. It was a little uncomfortable to touch, but nothing dangerous. Then it cools down pretty fast, like change the battery and it's already barely warmer than your skin. Excellent little lights, but I'd like more runtime on max :devil:
mobi
Newly Enlightened
H502d survives apparently being run over.
The light fell out of my pocket near the drive-in ATM at the bank. I returned about an hour later looking for it. It has little indentations apparently from some heavy weight, presumably a car tire, pressing it into the pavement.
Works fine.
The light fell out of my pocket near the drive-in ATM at the bank. I returned about an hour later looking for it. It has little indentations apparently from some heavy weight, presumably a car tire, pressing it into the pavement.
Works fine.
Bolster
Flashlight Enthusiast
Battle scars! Excellent. Glad you were able to retrieve it.
Bolster
Flashlight Enthusiast
DIΩDΣ;4026779 said:
Wouldn't it be fun to mount two ZLs at 6 and 12 o-clock around the lens' objective.
Dang, that's impressive. I guess being so small helped a lot. Definitely a good testament to ZL's build quality.
ibu
Newly Enlightened
I'm waiting for the H502w. Does anyone have maybe some insider knowledge, if there's a realistic chance that it will appear this year? Thanks.
One question about the colour temperature:
On
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...authkey=CNqP6KIC&hl=en&authkey=CNqP6KIC#gid=0
zebralight declares the 502c with a temperature of 4000K and the 502w with 4200K.
Theoretically that means, that the light of the "c" should appear more warm than of the "w".
Am I wrong?
One question about the colour temperature:
On
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...authkey=CNqP6KIC&hl=en&authkey=CNqP6KIC#gid=0
zebralight declares the 502c with a temperature of 4000K and the 502w with 4200K.
Theoretically that means, that the light of the "c" should appear more warm than of the "w".
Am I wrong?
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Diablo_331
Enlightened
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- Jul 26, 2011
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If said samples are said color temperatures then yes, the C will be slightly warmer than the W but the difference will be minimal.
ibu
Newly Enlightened
When the tint will be almost the same: What are the (relevant) advantages of the expected 502w versus 502c?
Bolster
Flashlight Enthusiast
We're expecting the 502w to give more lumens--whether it adds enough to give a functional advantage is a different question altogether. It's often said a 100% increase is necessary for a light to look noticeably brighter; it's also commonly said that you may be able to detect a 20% increase in a side-by-side test.
The H502c tops out at 142 according to the mfgr, so the above guidelines would mean the H502w would need to make 170 lumens (which is what an H502d puts out) before it would be detectably brighter than an H502c in a side-by-side test, and would need to make 280 (which is close to the H502's output of 260) to be "noticeably brighter."
I've seen estimates of the H502w's lumens, but don't remember what they were...does anyone know, can someone help?
If you look at the SC51 and the SC51w, or the SC51f to the SC51fw, the w version is 84% (ie 16% dimmer) compared to the non-w version. So if you apply that calculation to the H502 at 260, that would put the H502w at around 218 lumens. If that's close, then it would place the H502w somewhere above "detectably brighter on a side-by-side test" but not as bright as the standard for "noticeably brighter," when compared to an H502c.
Which is a very longwinded way of saying: "A little brighter."
What the 'w' will give up is a little color rendition. Based on my tests and photos which you can find in this thread, the difference between 'w' and 'c' is subtle.
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